Just ordered a MM16 - what do i need to do when it arrives

[Bob Cooper]

Just bought a nice new bandsaw and want to make sure the shop is ready for it. What electrical work needs to be done?

1) what size circuit -- i know its a 5HP motor but i cannot find current draw on the web site
2) does it come with a cord/plug or do i need to wire it from the switch to the receptacle?

[Jacques Gagnon]

Congratulations Bob! Nice new toy!

I have connected mine on a 30 amp circuit and bought 10 gauge flexible cable. One end hard wired into the junction box; the other end a twist lock at the machine end. This allows me to easily disconnect the saw when I change blades.

Happy sawing!

J.

[Dave Diaman]

I have a MM20 and it is a fantastic saw. Given the deal they are running right now you got a fantastic deal on a great saw. When it arrives you will need a cord and plug. You will want some 10 gauge power cord. You will need two wires and a ground. In addition to that you will want a 30 amp twist lock plug and a 30 amp circuit. If you go to a big box store you should be able to have them cut power cord to length. It is much more flexible. You will also need someone on hand to help you stand the machine up. Mine came laying on its spine. As I said my saw is a fantastic saw. I only have two complaints about mine. The first is the Carter guides. They require two hex wrenches and a screw driver to adjust. If you are switching from a 1/4” blade to a 1” blade it is a royal PITA. I fixed this problem by having another saw that I keep a 1/4” blade on. I may eventually get a set of the Laguna guides but since I keep a 1” blade on my saw it isn’t a high priority. The other is the dust collection. It only has one dust port and you need a lot of CFM at the saw to pull the dust away. If you don’t have enough vacuum the saw will literally rain sawdust down on you and the lower cabinet will fill up. If you haven’t already picked up a resaw blade check out Spectrum Supply for a Lenox Woodmaster CT carbide blade. You should be able to get one for your saw for about $125. I have one and I can’t tell you how many thousands of feet of material I have resaw with one blade.

[Brian Holcombe]

I’ll second that, I ran mine without a DC for about an hour when I first got it, I think the entire shop was coated in western Red Cedar. Safe to say a good DC is required, I have a V3000 and it works well.

I have euro guides on my machine, they came with it and the machine (MM20) is from 2016, so I assume yours will also have euro guides. They're Easy to use.

Sam Blasco sent me a sheet on the basics and his recommendations and I went by that info. Sam’s info is right on, you can tell he has a great deal of experience with his machinery.

Sam’s a great resource, answers all of my many stupid questions and always gives spot on reliable advice. He’s answered questions about my saw I had maybe 3 weeks ago, that is almost a year after the sale. Sam’s a great salesman in that he doesn’t give any kind of hard sale, he gives the info straightforward and recommends.

[Dave Diaman]

Brian, now that you mention it I seem to remember they went back to the Euro guides on the MM16 and MM20 shortly after I bought mine. A friend of mine put Laguna guides on his saw and gave me his Euro guides. I took my Carter guides off and put the Euro guides on my saw for a short time. You are right, they adjust much easier than the Carter guides. The problem I ran into with the Euro guides is the thrust bearings locked up on the ones I had. I ended up pulling them off and putting the Carter guides back on. When I started having problems with the thrust bearing the guides were throwing sparks like crazy. With all the fine resaw dust I was creating and the potential of a spark ending up in my dust collector I switched them out pretty quick. I’m guessing the problem I had was just a fluke.

[Chris Merriam]

If you’ve never bought 30 amp plugs and receptacles be prepared for sticker shock. It’s about $50 for both plus the SJOO cable.

before you find a home for the saw, note how far you need to swing the doors open to put on a wide blade. You’ll see the doors need to be about 180 degrees open, which means you can’t have the saw right against a wall (unless you want to move it every time you change a blade)

Mine also came with the Carter guides and yes they need lots of tools to adjust them. I switched to Laguna guides and am much happier (though they are expensive and required some reengineering)

due to the door issue I ended up moving my saw to a part of the shop somewhat underneath a can light. With all the mass of the saw/blade guard up top my table is fairly dark and covered in shadows. I bought a magnetic flexible light to shine right on the cutting area. But ideally you’ll have an overhead light a few feet away in a position where light can get down to the actual cutting zone.

[Jacques Gagnon]

... Chris's note made me remember one thing: if you use the mobility kit (not sure you will since you may wish to have it stationary) you will quickly realize that opening the bottom door is somewhat frustrating because of the lack of clearance for the wheel.

You have two choices: pull the cotter pin and remove the wheel (and reinstall as need be), or, put a spacer (strip of plywood 3/4 inch or thicker) between the frame and the bracket (the mobility kit itself) which "pushes the wheel further back".

As for the guides, my saw came with the Carter guides; I eventually got used to them!

[Mike Kees]

When I saw the title of this thread my first reaction was,EXTENDED HAPPY DANCE!!!! :)

[Jeff Bartley]

I have an Agazzani saw with euro guides and have the same issue with sparks. I've had to clean the thrust bearings more than I'd like. One day I may upgrade to ceramic guides but I've read they throw sparks too.
Hard to get comfortable throwing sparks into a dust collection system!!

[Jeff Bartley]

And I forgot to say, enjoy your new saw Bob!

[Matthew Hills]

Congratulations!

My bandsaw shipped on its back in the crate.
Very helpful to have a buddy to help you get this upright, and then you can walk the bandsaw off the bottom part of the crate

Advice above is good for electrical power.

My saw order came with some blades. I wasn't terribly thrilled with those, and soon replaced with some other blades. These will usually need to be ordered to your specified length from a blade supplier.

The table ships with goop on it, underneath a sheet of plastic. Follow normal advice for removing the goop (can scrape with a plastic scraper; remove residue with paper towels and mineral spirits, etc.). And then whatever you use for your cast iron surfaces (boeshield/wax/etc.)


Took a long time to wipe the smile off my face after my initial cuts through thick material.
*do* pay attention to good practice -- the saw has a lot of power, and you don't want it rolling a log on you at the start of the cut!

Are you going to keep the saw mobile? will you be using zambus-style casters, or the minimax mobility kit? If using Zambus, the thread pitch for these is M12x1.75.


My saw came with a miter gauge and push stick. You'll need to provide your own feather boards.


Matt

[Jim Becker]

Congratulations! Great machine. You need a 30 amp circuit and you'll also need to supply the cord and termination hardware. I use rubber cord from the 'borg and in my case, spent a little more to do a pigtail on the saw and a mating cord to the wall. I use SnapLocks in my shop for my 240v tools. The pigtail gives a disconnect "at the saw" with easier access than to the wall recepticle and also means no cord to drag if the machine needs to be moved. But that's me...others just do a cord and are done with it.

[Martin Wasner]

I would buy enough SO cord that you can replace the cord that comes on the machine. I don't care for the small gauge or the quality of the insulation in the white Italian cords.

I prefer twist lock ends too.

Enjoy the saw, I just picked up a used one a free weeks ago. It's a nice unit, especially if you're like me and just had a poorly made 14" saw before.

[Jim Becker]

I would buy enough SO cord that you can replace the cord that comes on the machine. I don't care for the small gauge or the quality of the insulation in the white Italian cords. I prefer twist lock ends too. Enjoy the saw, I just picked up a used one a free weeks ago. It's a nice unit, especially if you're like me and just had a poorly made 14" saw before.
No cord comes with the machine, Martin...it be naked!

[Martin Wasner]

No cord comes with the machine, Martin...it be naked!

I bought mine used and it had the cheap Italian cord on it. You're better off not getting a cord.

[Robert Cherry]

I just took delivery on a new MM16 about 2 weeks ago. As others have pointed out the saw comes with no chord, you will need to supply a 10 ga. chord with a 30 amp twist lock plug. The required circuit is 30 amp/10 ga. wire.

Be prepared with a few friends to move this thing, it's heavy! Even after pulling off about 200 lbs. of crating wood you are still looking at over 500 lbs. Mine had to go down a flight of steps into my basement shop which was no small feat. Also have plenty of rags on hand- I think they dip these machines in Cosmoline before they crate them.

After you get it set in place be prepared to spend some time tuning it up. Mine needed a little adjustment here and there to get it true. I had to spend some time filing the bottom of the fence to get it square to the table. The factory throat plate is plastic and not very flat. I took mine to the belt sander to flatten it short term but when I have some extra time I'll replace the plate with one made from plywood.

Order your blades now, they will take a week or so to come in.

Overall a nice machine, you will be very happy with it.

[jerry cousins]

i've had my mm16 for several years - +1 what everyone has said about connecting. i started with the euro guides - (which gummed up a lot) - then to carters (which i too found pretty tough to set up - too many fingers and too many tools) and then finally got some laguna ceramics - yes xpensive but i think the best support for big blades - at first they do throw sparks when the metal hits the ceramic but have never found that to be a problem.
jerry

[Bob Cooper]

All...thanks. This has been one of those tools that I’ve wanted for a long long time. The sale plus an upcoming project finally pushed me over the edge.

So I’ll still have a 14” delta which I’ll keep a 1/2” 3 tpi blade on. For the MM should I get a 1” carbide blade for resawing? For my project I’ll be resawing soft wood — 8” thick cypress.

But besides resawing are there any concerns with cutting for example 3/4” plywood. I’m still at the point in my woodworking career where I build more cabinets and furniture.

Also I know that witha carbide blade you need to put a lot of tension on the blade. I also assume that you need to release that tension at the end of each workday. How much do you need the back off of the tension in order to not stress the tires. I know some saws have a quick release but I don’t believe this one has one.

Last question. Is the mobility kit a separate optional item?

[Robert Cherry]

Contact Sam and he can provide you with a guide that covers blade choices. I bought 1/4, 1/2 for standard bandsaw work and a carbide 1" for resawing. I detension my blade after use and made a hang tag from some scrap plywood to remind me to retension before the next use. My my saw shipped with the mobility kit included.

[Jim Becker]

Bob, my MM16 pretty much as a 1/2" 3 tpi blade on it full time at this point. I have other, narrower blades, but rarely use them for the things I personally tend to use the bandsaw for. If the smaller machine is staying in the shop, I'd personally put a 1/4" or 3/16" blade on it for general 'scrolling' and keep the larger machine setup for heavier work.

As to the carbide blade question...I had one years ago and it did indeed cut wonderfully. But it was darn expensive "tearful moment" when it suddenly got buggered and became unusable due to a stupid mistake I made during setup, leaving something loose that shouldn't have been loose. Re-sawing softwoods can easily be handled by a "regular" 3/4" or 1" blade and there will also be a thinner kerf. And these blades also work well for hardwoods, too. I'd only do the carbide again if I was getting into the situation that I was going to be doing a lot of re-sawing to justify the cost of the carbide tipped band, rather than general purpose work. But that's me...

[Bill Adamsen]

Congratulations Bob ... great saw. I have the factory Carters on my older Centauro and they work great. I have a smaller saw (the 14" Delta like you) and rarely swap out the blades on the big saw. The saw has a 1" Carbide resaw blade by Lennox, and am very careful with the blade. I too have stupidly (and expensively) damaged the carbide blades in the past. They work well for both hard and softwoods ... but occasionally need cleaning (mineral spirits works fine) if cutting sappy wood. Somewhere along the line someone taught me that for both safety and efficiency on the bandsaw, one should have 3 teeth in the wood at all times. The 3-tpi resaws would technically break that rule for 3/4" plywood, and I'd also expect they might leave a rough cut.

[John Sanford]

What do you do when it arrives?

Duh....

https://media.giphy.com/media/3ornjX5H61CKdFonks/giphy.gif

[Jim Becker]

What do you do when it arrives?

Duh....

https://media.giphy.com/media/3ornjX5H61CKdFonks/giphy.gif

Or alternatively...

https://rgffqg-dm2305.files.1drv.com/y4mTrU87H2J5rnXhDEBJAtWdQc8DejhEjUXMURq0FPYi9ZLC_r Uhf7NtkIMCZmIXfqlejt9yFfKkrHhqVoQrrrnwpCT2pJWKeiRQ ZAzPNl1Gwu44SQDRQsS_DrRk60ppOz7WVFuWqA9QC9DG75wOu5 rkqhoLtySgxh1z0fW1iQ-nEa6ALvgdbvLtEp7JkB-aVMMNLR_4btxKfN38__bywmmMA?width=480&height=360&cropmode=none

[Bob Cooper]

I will do both once it arrives and is in the shop in the vertical position

[Joe Adams]

I will do both once it arrives and is in the shop in the vertical position

Bob,

Please empty your inbox and send me a PM. I just received a Minimax machine myself and have some information.

Thanks!

Joe

[Bob Cooper]

Will do. Didn’t know my inbox had much in it

[Jim Becker]

Bob, I recently posted a thread in Woodworking Projects about building outfeed support for my MM16. I did so after watching a few videos recently where it was clear that having an extended table was useful. You may want to consider the same for your new saw...and it may affect where you specifically locate it in your shop for obvious reasons.

[Bob Cooper]

Bob,

Please empty your inbox and send me a PM. I just received a Minimax machine myself and have some information.

Thanks!

Joe

Joe

Just got your message but your inbox is full too so I cannot respond

[Joe Adams]

Joe

Just got your message but your inbox is full too so I cannot respond

Sorry Bob. I've been busy and accidentally let my Contributor status lapse. That cuts your limit for stored messages dramatically. Everything is good to go now.

[Mike Berti]

Apologies for my ignorance: who is selling the new MM 16 bandsaws today? I was under impression that minimax were out of business... Or was it Agazzani ?

[Jim Becker]

Apologies for my ignorance: who is selling the new MM 16 bandsaws today? I was under impression that minimax were out of business... Or was it Agazzani ?

MiniMax is a brand name of SCM and they are very strong. In fact, the whole reason for this sale is that they are doing some slight rebranding which will make the MiniMax name even more visible. :) Sales in the US are "direct", but generally handled by reps like Sam Blasco.

[Scott Allen27]

I also bought the MM16 during the sale and worked with Sam (awesome experience - also bought my CU300 from him a few years ago). I am still waiting , and currently my saw is 'on the water' according to SCM. It supposedly will get into port late Dec. so I have some time to prepare.

My burning concern is how to get the saw vertical. Anyone with experience on this - is 2 guys enough to lift it to an upright position? Do you break down the crate first or leave it in the crate when you lift it?

Jim, on your 1/2" blade (Diemaster 2?) do you track it with the teeth off the tire or do you run it in the middle of the tire?
Thanks again for the help guys - this thread has been a big help!
Scott

[Jim Becker]

Scott, two strong people can generally tilt the machine up; having a third isn't a terrible idea just to make it easier and safer. However, if you pick it up at the terminal, have it in your truck or on your trailer on its spine...then you can just use gravity to tilt is up as you take it off the truck or trailer and it will already be upright, especially if you can get the machine into your shop while still on the conveyance. I used that method with all three of my MiniMax machines, including a 1500 lb sliding table saw. :)

[Jacques Gagnon]

... to Scott's second question regarding positioning of the blade: I run the blade with the teeth off the tire. I only go with "middle of the tire" with narrower blades (1/4 and less).

Hope this helps!

Jacques

[Mike Berti]

Thank you Jim! That’s news to me.
How can I contact Sam Blasco? Does he have a website?

[Steve Wilde]

Mike, I ordered my MM16 from Sam as well, great experience and amazing machine. sam.blasco@scmgroup.com

[Bob Cooper]

Thanks Jim I’ll check that out

[Sanjeev Agarwal]

I have the MM16 as well and find it frustrating that you have to remove the plastic insert to tilt the table which is a pain and it leaves the workpiece unsupported. Perhaps i am doing something wrong. Is there a way to tilt the table without removing the insert?

[Jim Becker]

I have the MM16 as well and find it frustrating that you have to remove the plastic insert to tilt the table which is a pain and it leaves the workpiece unsupported. Perhaps i am doing something wrong. Is there a way to tilt the table without removing the insert?

Unless there would be a very wide slot for the blade (undesirable from a work support standpoint, it would be hard to accomodate this on a big saw...

[Brian Holcombe]

Iirc Sam recommended making an insert for each angle.

[Bryan Hunt]

Contrats on the MM16 - I love mine. The advice for the electrical is spot on - 30 amp and you supply the 10 ga power cord. I also second the advice for a Lenox 1-1/4" carbide resaw blade. I have one on my MM16 and it ran through some 12/4 mahogany like a hot knife through butter a few days ago. Having help standing it up is also a must. I lucked out since I'm in Austin - the MiniMax guys delivered mine and stood it up for me :). Have some de-greaser on hand as the table is covered in goo to protect it.

[Bob Cooper]

I finished the electrical wiring yesterday — Amazon makes those twist lock connections affordable. Now I just need to pick up some 10 gauge rubber cord to make the cord-plug for the saw.

Lennox blades should arrive soon. I ordered two — a narrower steel and a wider carbide.

My next big upgrade I think is replacing my 15 year old Unisaw with a Sawstop. I have a sister that wants to start using my shop some and that’s enough to further motivate me to upgrade.

[Jim Becker]

Bob, I get the rubber cord from Home Depot...sold by the foot. BTW, when preparing the rubber cord, be very, very careful when you're removing the rubber from the conductors. You don't want to nick the (colored) insulation on the conductors, so take your time and use a very sharp blade so you can work things slowly and lightly. Get the rubber thin enough and bending it will split away the final little bit that surrounds the conductors.

[David Eisenhauer]

Hijack Alert! - Bryan H: How long ago was this? Is the Austin MM depot still open? I got my MM 16 there years ago and tried to find it gain a few months ago and could not find it. I also could not find an address/phone number on the greater SCMI/MM web site.

[Jim Becker]

Hijack Alert! - Bryan H: How long ago was this? Is the Austin MM depot still open? I got my MM 16 there years ago and tried to find it gain a few months ago and could not find it. I also could not find an address/phone number on the greater SCMI/MM web site.
AFAIK, everything's in Atlanta now for a long time. Sam happens to live "not to far" from Austin, but does what he does from his own place. Same was true for Erik prior to him leaving the firm.

[Bob Cooper]

Thanks Jim. I checked HD here last week and they don't have 10/2 in rubber cord so i'll have to swing by a supply house. Never really used it so i appreciate the advice.

[Jim Becker]

Thanks Jim. I checked HD here last week and they don't have 10/2 in rubber cord so i'll have to swing by a supply house. Never really used it so i appreciate the advice.
Really? They didn't have it? Wow...the only trouble I've ever had getting it from HD was finding someone who could make the "merry-go-round" turn to get to the proper roll. LOL Check other home centers if you have any, but yea...an electrical supply house should have or at least be able to get it for you.

[David Eisenhauer]

Thanks Jim. I figured so, but was "hoping against all hope".

[Bob Cooper]

It arrived in great shape. Crate was in damaged and everything was shrink wrapped.

So I now have it in the shop and I have a couple questions.

1) is there something I need to do to the brake? I have no blade on the saw yet but the brake pedal is down and doesn’t move easily. Seems like I remember reading something that I need to do

2) inside the blue case there are 4 threaded posts that look like they are to be tightened with a Allen head wrench (3 wrenches r provided). Where do there’s go?

3) where does the ?johnson bar? Attach when I want to move the saw?

4) what is the black metal tool that hangs down in the picture used for?

Hmmm...I’ll need to post a picture when I’m. It on an iPhone

[Bryan Hunt]

1) Sorry, can't help you there.

2) The 4 threaded posts are your leveling feet. You should see 4 holes in the corners of the base where those screw in.

3) To move the saw put the pointy end of the bar into the hole in the break pedal. Push down on the bar to lift up the front of the saw onto the wheels attached to the bar.

4) Is that black metal tool shaped like an L and attached by a chain to the table? If so, thats the pin the goes between the two table halves where you install the blade to keep that part of the table flat.

[Dave Cav]

It arrived in great shape. Crate was in damaged and everything was shrink wrapped.

So I now have it in the shop and I have a couple questions.

1) is there something I need to do to the brake? I have no blade on the saw yet but the brake pedal is down and doesn’t move easily. Seems like I remember reading something that I need to do

2) inside the blue case there are 4 threaded posts that look like they are to be tightened with a Allen head wrench (3 wrenches r provided). Where do there’s go?

3) where does the ?johnson bar? Attach when I want to move the saw?

4) what is the black metal tool that hangs down in the picture used for?

Hmmm...I’ll need to post a picture when I’m. It on an iPhone

1. You have to bolt the brake pedal (the part that sticks out of the cabinet) to the brake arm inside the cabinet. There should be a bolt for this.

2. The four threaded posts should screw into the four holes in the base for leveling.

3. The Johnson Bar nose goes in the hole in the brake pedal and levers the saw up onto the wheels on the other (spine) side of the saw. If there aren't any wheels on the saw, they will need to be found and attached.

4. Black metal tool? Are you sure it's not the black plastic push stick. Need a picture.

[James Biddle]

I'm not in front of my saw now, but I remember something odd about the sticker they put next to the power junction box...strange English. How does your's read?

[Bob Cooper]

here's some pictures and i think you've cleared up most of the mystery.
1. OK...i'll look inside the lower cabinet and figure that out.
2. makes sense.
3. ok..i see the hole in the pedal but i also see a hole to the right in the fame but that hole seemed to high. I saw concerned that lifting by the pedal would be too much weight on it.
4. ok that makes sense too...the pin that connects the two tables.

the two plastic caps i assume cover the two bolt heads for the movable kit on the front of the saw?

[Chris Parks]

Don't MM supply an owners manual? Ther are plenty to download form the web if they didn't

[Bob Cooper]

Don't MM supply an owners manual? Ther are plenty to download form the web if they didn't

yes there was a manual -- it was about 20 pages stapled together -- but it didn't say anything about assembly of these items. I don't have it in front of me but it was more about using the machine but it really had little valuable info.

BTW the plastic caps are for the johnson bar.

OK, i just did a quick search for owner manual and apparently there's a nice one online (woodwrecker)...i just didn't get one w/my saw. Seems to answer all the questions (with pictures) that i posted.

[Brian Holcombe]

There is a bolt you need to change on the pedal to correct the location.

[David Eisenhauer]

Did you find the wheels for mobility? Yes, the Johnson bar will work by inserting in the hole in the brake pedal and it takes a push/pull or two to get a feel for the trajectory of the beast. Kind of fun backing/forthing/hard turning to get it where you want it. Re learn it all over again a few years later when you rearrange the shop. After you find wherever the Johnson bar is hidden away in the shop. Biggest pain I seem to remember I had in setup was to level out the table in both directions as it seemed to me that the levelling bolts could be used to either push up or pull down, but it has been a while since I did it and not sure I ever quite figured out a truly systematic method for doing it and may have gotten somewhat lucky and called it good. .

[Bob Cooper]

i just got back from vacation and spent the day cleaning and wiring.

Wiring was straightforward however when i went to turn it on...nothing. Here's what i've checked to far

- all doors are closed
- bounced and wiped each of the micro switches in the doors
- verified power to outlet and to the machine -- at the terminal block where my wiring ties into the machines'
- tried the switch in various combinations and yes it does take a good bit of force to feel the "on" switch click. i'm pretty sure the red twist knob must be twisted and pushed in and then you press the clear/white switch to the right but i tried various combinations.

[yes i verified gnd is correct]

any suggestions? tomorrow i can reach out to official resources if i don't figure it out tonight.

[Brian Holcombe]

Pushing in the red twist knob shuts it off. Twist that out and push the small button.

[David Eisenhauer]

On my few year old MM16, I have to twist/pull out the large red stop button before hitting the start button. Twisting/pulling it out re sets it to stay pulled out until such time as I use it to stop the machine. It will not do anything without re setting the stop button in the (I guess) run position. You say you are pushing it in?

[Bob Cooper]

The Red stop button’s two state I think are

- pushed in for off
- twist and it pops out for on...no need to pull it per se

so with it out the white switch will depress deeper and mechanically click but no power

[David Eisenhauer]

I believe there is also a safety switch on the foot brake besides the ones on the doors. I guess you checked that one also.

[Brian Holcombe]

Right, you had not moved the foot pedal into its correct position in the last photo, so if you still have it out of position that may be a reason why it will not start:

It should look like this:

https://brianholcombewoodworker.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/img_9145.jpg

Mine arrived folded down like yours and that is a shipping setup, I presume to prevent damage of some sort.

[Erik Loza]

Right, you had not moved the foot pedal into its correct position in the last photo, so if you still have it out of position that may be a reason why it will not start.

This ^^^

There should be an audible click if you slightly depress the footbrake. If you don't hear a click, it means the start circuit is already open (as in, the machine thinks you are already depressing the foot brake in order to stop the saw). If that is what the issue is, it's just an adjustment to the steel tang that engages the footbrake micro-switch, which is pretty straightforward to perform. Hope this helps.

Erik

[Bob Cooper]

ok...i'll need to go out and check the foot pedal to see if i hear the click. NOTE: i did extend and screw the second screw into the pedal so that it looks like you're picture above...and i've moved it using the j-bar but let me go out to the shop and depress it and see if i hear anything click. If not i'll poke around and see if i can find the adjustment Erik mentions. hopefully i'll tell how it works once i see that microswitch

[Bob Cooper]

just checked and i can definitely hear the click of the micro-switch when i depress the pedal. Happens about 1/2 down the travel of the brake. Here's some pictures.

[Brian Holcombe]

I’d give Sam a call tomorrow and see what he suggests. Likely something pretty simple.

[Bob Cooper]

thanks...that's my plan. Saw looks and feels great i'm anxious to try it out. Only other thing i need to do i suppose is cut a piece of wood for the slot in the lower area related to dust collection. Well...that and put a blade on it.

[Jim Becker]

Bob, you cut the slot in the wood block by turning the wheel by hand with the blade tensioned and slowly pushing the wood into position while the blade cuts a kerf. This is always a non-powered operation. Consider it a "zero clearance insert" type thing.

I hope you figure out the mystery...'gotta be something, um...well...you know... ;)

[Bob Cooper]

just hope the root cause is not *so* stupid that i won't want to post the answer.

[Jim Becker]

just hope the root cause is not *so* stupid that i won't want to post the answer.

You mean this kind of reaction? :D

https://sgepwq.sn2.livefilestore.com/y4mkPXUkwVPBgAvOeepgndv9MM2Kh6Sh-Amfbf4xI2sX0OhKn1U7oGBfWx3znXtNCqCZQwVeJYTPt0Wn55r EGlec7vFTkPEJgiDJAwk4nK7Eh2uztXg6Ve8hlPmO4OCcHADml DJ1CkzrVNBMuxVKS0MjpPuOSS96KPyvKL9kV30Acj5Y3jFQccQ u6zY0zqEFgYQhlzrzlLxl_RAyADwKh7z5w?width=300&height=279&cropmode=none

[Bob Cooper]

Mystery solved. The Eaton switch was bad. Talked to the tech's in Atlanta and they confirmed that it sounded like a bad switch and they send me a replacement. i did ask how common it was for this part to malfunction and was told...not common at all. I believe Eaton makes good stuff so i don't expect it to go out. during the process i did learn how to easily detect if the cause is due to any of the interlock micro-switches. My symptoms were that the main switch just would not depress so something mechanical inside the switch is broken.

I've got detailed drawings of what wires go where that i could post should someone ever need them but they pretty much map to the drawing that came with the saw.

So...now that it runs i went ahead and put on the 1" Lenox carbide blade and i must tell you i was amazed at how easy it was to cut an 1/8" slice off of a block of wood. Granted my first cuts were douglas fir so it's a pretty soft wood but nonetheless i had zero tracking issue, etc. So i'm pretty pleased.

Also i really like the style of guides that it comes with...they screw in from the sides and its easy to sneak right up on the blade.

i don't have a blade tension guide so i'm just using the gauge on the saw as my guide and i'm kind of surprised at how little force it takes by turning the hand wheel to get to 1" on that guide. I imagined i'd have to really crank until it was difficult to turn but that's not the case at all...made me feel like i was under-tensioning as i've often read how much tension it takes to properly tension a 1" blade.

Next is to connect this thing to dust collection and cut that small piece of wood that goes inside the base that the blade passes through.

[Martin Wasner]

Bob, you cut the slot in the wood block by turning the wheel by hand with the blade tensioned and slowly pushing the wood into position while the blade cuts a kerf. This is always a non-powered operation. Consider it a "zero clearance insert" type thing.

I hope you figure out the mystery...'gotta be something, um...well...you know... ;)


I hold the door switch, turn on the saw, and just shove the block into the blade. I've got stuff to do.

[Jim Becker]

I hold the door switch, turn on the saw, and just shove the block into the blade. I've got stuff to do.

It only takes about, oh...15-20 seconds to do the cut manually by turning the lower wheel/blade with one's left hand while pushing the block in. No way would I do this with the saw running under power.

[Martin Wasner]

It only takes about, oh...15-20 seconds to do the cut manually by turning the lower wheel/blade with one's left hand while pushing the block in. No way would I do this with the saw running under power.

It's probably safer than making a cut on the table top in the normal operation of the saw

[Bruce Page]

It's probably safer than making a cut on the table top in the normal operation of the saw

Nonsense

..

[Martin Wasner]

Nonsense

..


Okay. If you say so. I typically don't have a fence on both sides of the cut on the table like you do putting that block for the dust collection in.

[Chris Parks]

Very safe to do when the saw is running, use a long piece of wood and cut off the bit needed after the cut has been done on the band. No fingers anywhere near the blade.