post supports

[Jeff Bartley]

Morning All,

I'm in the midst of a shop build and on the side there will be a carport (16' wide x 24' deep) which will be supported on 8x8 posts. Posts will sit on concrete sonotube footings but i'd like to use some sort of metal bracket to hold the posts. I've seen the Simpson brackets but I'm wondering if anyone can recommend another source? I know there's always the option of having brackets fabricated but I'd love to hear from anyone who has an off-the-shelf option!

TIA! Jeff

[William Sonnier]

You might look for some companies that supply timber framing components.

[Mike Heidrick]

Menards has some but ive not used them. I am sure all pole barn suppliers have them. Ragland and Morton had some options when they were bidding jobs.

[Jim Becker]

There's a shop build thread here somewhere within the last year where the poster showed that his pole barn was build using connections for the posts on the concrete rather than sinking the poles into the ground like many such buildings are built.

[John K Jordan]

Those seem like huge posts for such a carport! (unless there are none in the middle of the span) Good and strong.

I don't know of brackets for 8x8 posts (probably are some) - is this pressure treated wood? I think Simpsons are galvanized but I'd be tempted to make my own - sink two 3/16-1/4" stainless flat plates (maybe 6-7" wide) in the concrete, held underneath with holes and maybe some bolts and nuts to give the concrete something to grip, holes on the exposed parts for big lag screws to go into the wood. Could use all-thread and bolts for under-the-concrete spacing for more strength.

These would be strong, inexpensive, and trivial to fabricate (no welding) - I have a plasma cutter but a fabricator could probably sell you the pieces and shear them from sheet stock. A local shop sells me offcuts by the estimated weight (cheap) and will make some shear cuts for free. (I'd use a short block of 8x8 to hold them in position until the concrete set.) They could look good too - round the corners, grind edges smooth/beveled, and wire brush for pretty. Or use steel and powdercoat. Just thinking out loud.

JKJ

[Brice Rogers]

If you can buy the right sized Simpson fasteners, then that is what I'd suggest. They make good fasteners in just about every imaginable configuration. Study the fasteners they make. IIRC, they don't allow the post to be incontact with concrete. That is good because it guarantees that the end grain of the post stays dry.

If you make your own fasteners, then I'd suggest that you buy the asphalt (?) based sill seal to block any moisture from getting into the end grain. Alternatively I suppose that an old rubber inner tube would work equally well between the concrete and the timber.

[Bill Dufour]

Many of the Simpson connectors and bolts can be had in stainless. recommended for near the ocean and the new treated wood in damp locations.
Bill D

[Ronald Blue]

This is what I used on my new shop building. Maybe your set on pouring the post but these are a great option in my opinion. You can buy the base by itself or go with the complete in ground assembly.
https://www.permacolumn.com/

[Todd Mason-Darnell]

I can understand your desire to make your own, but one of the great things about the Simpson fasteners is that they are all engineered and general accepted by code officers so only as you follow the Simpson installation specifications.

[Mark Blatter]

Morning All,

I'm in the midst of a shop build and on the side there will be a carport (16' wide x 24' deep) which will be supported on 8x8 posts. Posts will sit on concrete sonotube footings but i'd like to use some sort of metal bracket to hold the posts. I've seen the Simpson brackets but I'm wondering if anyone can recommend another source? I know there's always the option of having brackets fabricated but I'd love to hear from anyone who has an off-the-shelf option!

TIA! Jeff

Interesting. I start framing on a new shop tomorrow that is 38' long x 26' wide, with an additional overhang to serve as a car port. It will overhang 16', so will be 26' x 16'. It is being supported by two 6" x 6" posts positioned at 12' out from the main building. A glulam bean will provide support from the building to the posts. The size was the engineer's call, not mine. I have footings poured for the posts to rest on, but will have a bracket for them to sit on so they are off the concrete. My plan was to use a Simpson bracket though would like have them be removable, or at least able to move to the end of the roof line so I can more easily back in trailers. Have not talked with the engineer about this aspect yet, but will to get his thoughts.

I will be keeping on eye on this thread to see what you go with. I don't have to worry about it for another 6 weeks as the truss company is that far out on production.

[Jeff Bartley]

Thanks for all the suggestions folks! Ronald, great link, I like the brackets that get poured into the footing. I'm planning to use sonotubes to get out of the ground and those brackets look perfect.

Next I need to figure out what posts to use. In my ideal world I'd timber frame the 3 support posts with braces at each post but that might require an engineers stamp.....which means more $$.

Mark, your shop build sounds very similar to mine, are you building it yourself?

[Keith Outten]

I replaced my 6 by 6 wood posts with steel pipe. Lots of advantages over wood.

[Bill Dufour]

I can understand your desire to make your own, but one of the great things about the Simpson fasteners is that they are all engineered and general accepted by code officers so only as you follow the Simpson installation specifications.


The tie down plates I used the code requires you mount them so the stamped Simpson name and model # is facing out where the inspector can read them.

[Ted Calver]

Here's an interesting shed build that uses post supports from midwest permacolumn. Incidentally, if you want to fall down a rabbit hole for a few hours, look at the RR Buildings series on building the Diresta dream shop.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hiY1qZhZp8A

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n5QxJHm6M_c

[Mark Blatter]

Mark, your shop build sounds very similar to mine, are you building it yourself?

I am, with the help of a few friends and family. Could get interesting.

[John K Jordan]

I am, with the help of a few friends and family. Could get interesting.

Mark, nothing more satisfying than building a shop yourself! I've built two, my first was a little 20x20 building and the one I hope to use till the grave is 24x62. Saves a LOT of money too and provides excellent lessons in patience. I do everything from clearing the land to wiring the lights, with only help on this shop from a friend and crane for the roof trusses and some concrete guys to pour and finish the slab. Maybe you can use this line - I tell people I built it with my bare hands but I lie, I used tools. :)

Jeff, Keith makes an excellent point about using steel posts. We used round 4" posts at my last house to support a 10x24' extension for my music/piano room and bath on the second floor. Each post had a flat plate welded on the top and bottom, the bottom set down in the concrete and the top with holes to fasten it to the underside of the support beams. Extremely sturdy. To the right in this picture - I'd forgotten but it looks like it only took 4 posts. (Instead of sonotube pillars a long "grade beam" supported this load.) BTW, for the decks I put 4x6 PT directly on concrete pillars - still in good shape after almost 40 years.

372371

I also used a steel but square post to replace a cedar pole in my old barn which had rotted and caused the roof to sag - it had probably been in use for 80 years or more. For that one I used some heavy-wall rectangular steel pipe I had on hand and also welded plates top and bottom. I think 4x4 or 4x6 square steel posts would look fantastic for carport/shed use. (square steel has nicely radiused corners) They could be anchored to the surface with bolts sunk into the concrete.

JKJ

[Ronald Blue]

Here is a shot showing the Permacolumn posts in my new shed.
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