Anyone Ever Built The FWW Miter Saw Station?

[Julie Moriarty]

I'm making my second and last mobile miter saw cabinet with drop down wings. In my research I ran across a sliding extension that is incorporated into the wings. It was featured in FWW #209 back in 2010.
http://s3.amazonaws.com/finewoodworking.s3.tauntoncloud.com/app/uploads/2016/09/05162738/011209004-miter-stand-main.jpg

For anyone who has built a version of this I have some questions:

Can the width of the extensions be reduced? In the above version the horizontal piece of plywood on the extension is about 6" wide. Add the fence and the guide and that extends to 7-1/2". I'd like to cut that back by 2" or so to reduce the bulk.
With the extensions, are there any issues that affect the accuracy of the measuring tape incorporated into the Kreg extrusions?
Would it be more practical to build just one extension rather than two? Considering the fact you don't add cutting stop capacity with the second extension, it seems the second is redundant.


Thanks

For anyone interested, here's a LINK (https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model.html?redirect=1&mid=d6c623ec3ab249f2912bf37629776903&id=d6c623ec3ab249f2912bf37629776903) to a similar version in SketchUp.

[richard poitras]

Looks like an interesting design.

[Brad Leupen]

I built it. It works great except for the vacuum-based dust collection, which might gather 30-40% of the dust. You really need that second extension to support long off cuts. Here’s a 10 foot cherry board I cut down on mine this week.

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[Mike Cutler]

Julie

I built an earlier model that was featured in FWW, but basically the same. Mine doesn't have that sliding extension function on the wings.


I'm making my second and last mobile miter saw cabinet with drop down wings. In my research I ran across a sliding extension that is incorporated into the wings. It was featured in FWW #209 back in 2010.
http://s3.amazonaws.com/finewoodworking.s3.tauntoncloud.com/app/uploads/2016/09/05162738/011209004-miter-stand-main.jpg

For anyone who has built a version of this I have some questions:

Can the width of the extensions be reduced? In the above version the horizontal piece of plywood on the extension is about 6" wide. Add the fence and the guide and that extends to 7-1/2". I'd like to cut that back by 2" or so to reduce the bulk.

You can make the wings any dimension that suits your need.
With the extensions, are there any issues that affect the accuracy of the measuring tape incorporated into the Kreg extrusions?

The miter saw is bolted into a fixed position so it doesn't move. The only parts that could effect "accuracy, would be the hinges. Stop blocks are used in the track for repeatability. In that particular version that sliding extension could effect accuracy.
Would it be more practical to build just one extension rather than two? Considering the fact you don't add cutting stop capacity with the second extension, it seems the second is redundant.

The second wing is very useful if you have the space. It allows me to support long pieces of material and I can index the cut from either side of the blade.


Thanks

For anyone interested, here's a LINK (https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model.html?redirect=1&mid=d6c623ec3ab249f2912bf37629776903&id=d6c623ec3ab249f2912bf37629776903) to a similar version in SketchUp.

[Julie Moriarty]

Mike and Brad, thanks for the replies. I was trying to figure out just how effective the wing extensions were and after I made the original post I figured I'd take a stab at making a wing. Then after I made the first, since everything was pretty much set up, why not cut up pieces for a second wing? I'm still not sure if extensions on both sides is necessary but since I was there...

I began building the cabinet. The idea was to make the cabinet no more than 48" wide, not including the wings. Then the extension concept entered the picture. So this is how it started...
http://julimorcreations.com/Images/MiterCab/MiterCabinet_01.jpg

But how does one keep the wings from becoming too cumbersome? Shame on me but I didn't experiment. I just went with success. But what I did do was look into why the sliding fence needed to be as wide as was.
http://julimorcreations.com/Images/MiterCab/MiterCabinet_02.jpg

What I found was the Production Stop of the Kreg Precision Trak & Stop Kit has a star knob that protrudes substantially into the back of the sliding fence (look just to the left and front of the bottle of glue). With the overall width being 6-3/4" wide, I found it necessary to center the sliding rabbet at 2" O.C.

[Monte Milanuk]

I've been looking at this design myself... one thing that kind of concerns me a smidge is the wings are suspended from hinges mounted via screws drilled into the edge of the plywood top (https://youtu.be/47UvBgawGns?t=10m). I'm assuming that in actual use when the wings are extended the edge of the wing/fence 'box' rests on the table top for support, not the hinge or screws, right?

[Mike Cutler]

Julie
I like your modifications. The drawers are nice, and I like the way you have finished the bottom so that the sides are flush, and don't have that small "skirt" area at the bottom. It will also hide the bolt heads from the caster hardware.

[Jim Becker]

That seems to be a nice setup, especially when portability is required. Clearly, it's easy to customize, too. I think what you're doing with yours is great.

I built the more fixed Chris Gochenour cantilevered miter station from FWW a number of years ago. After watching the Timothy Wilmots videos that show his shop setup, I'm now honestly considering "re-skinning" it with a Festool MFT style top for more versatility. I'd still keep the miter saw in the same position, but change the tables to incorporate the 20mm hole setup as well as the clamping setups. It's only money... heh...heh... ;)

[Julie Moriarty]

Thanks all for the kind words. :)


Julie
I like your modifications. The drawers are nice, and I like the way you have finished the bottom so that the sides are flush, and don't have that small "skirt" area at the bottom. It will also hide the bolt heads from the caster hardware.

Mike, I placed the rabbet for the bottom of the cabinet only 1/2" up to allow the casters to rotate freely. Even at that, they still scratch the plywood a bit I placed them where they are so the wheel locks can be easily accessed. So the casters dictated there be no substantial skirt. To compensate for the lack of support, I added the 1x4 piece of maple. Now I'm debating on whether to add a face frame (it was planned that way) or just do an iron-on edge stripping and make the doors and drawers flush to the edges, sort of the European design look. Still undecided...

For anyone using the FWW SketchUp model, here's a more accurate and complete Kreg track stop: https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model/48ca746aceabd5b1892a63fe7c9e03ac/Kreg-Precision-Trak-Stop-KMS8000

[Jay Hart]

I have been using this design for years. Works great.
https://www.woodmagazine.com/project-plans/workshop-jig/tool-bases-stands/mobile-mitersaw-center-downloadable-plan

[Julie Moriarty]

I haven't tried out the extension feature yet. I moved the cabinet to the garage yesterday and realized the garage needed a good cleaning. When I started taking junk out to the curb, I noticed some water pooling near the water meter/shut off valve box. Turned out the leak was on my side. Dug it up, cut out the broken pipe, made up a nice telescoping repair fitting and just as I was about to reach down into the hole to install it, the street side of meter valve burst. We're back to normal now.

I was looking at how to hinge the wings but I need to commit to the support frame for them first. I ran across this today:
https://22293-presscdn-pagely.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/10/fea39.opener-800.jpg
I like how it cradles the wings when in the down position but I'm not sure they are supportive enough. On my last SMS cabinet I had folding supports that extended out to about 3'. These MDF wings on the new build are pretty heavy.

[Jim Becker]

Julie, I share your concern about support for those wings...and I'd probably do a swing down leg that engages the floor with an height adjustable "foot" so that as the thang is moved about, you can fine-adjust things to be level/co-planer while in use.

[Julie Moriarty]

Thanks, Jim. The swing down leg is something I hadn't considered. I've been mulling over what to use for the wing hinge. I'm leaning toward using a piece of 3/4" EMT to thread through the wing supports and the supports that will be mounted to the sides of the cabinet. Once that is resolved and assembled, I'll experiment with wing supports. Thanks again, Jim!

[william walton]

372605372606I built mine a couple years ago, not from a plan though. The wings are torsion box style with formica. The vacuum works extemely well with slow cuts.

[Jim Becker]

That looks pretty sturdy, William!

[Julie Moriarty]

Close to done. Doors and drawers need to be made. I'm thinking instead of two large doors and adjustable shelves, to add more drawers below. Then a few tweaks to the alignment and it should be good to go.

http://julimorcreations.com/Images/MiterCab/MiterCabinet_03.jpg
The two short wings on either side of the saw (above the small drawers) are adjustable. I allowed for adjustments to be made wherever possible.

http://julimorcreations.com/Images/MiterCab/MiterCabinet_04.jpg
After I clear out that pine in the corner, I'll run some duct to the DC so I won't have 4" hose laying on the floor. Connected to the DC, it does a pretty good job of pulling in the dust while cutting.

http://julimorcreations.com/Images/MiterCab/MiterCabinet_05.jpg
Fully extended, it's a bit over 6' from the stop to the blade. The extension adds 15".

http://julimorcreations.com/Images/MiterCab/MiterCabinet_06.jpg
With the wings folded down, it's about 60" overall.

I goofed up on setting the tape rule, neglected to recheck the instructions and had the 3/8" set back reversed. Trying to get the fold-away braces perfect - so they are hinged at both ends - defeated me. So I opted for a wood brace at the bottom, like I had on the last one. Other than that, it wasn't bad. When I have more time, I'll glue up some laminate to the wings and dress it up a bit.

[Jim Becker]

That looks really great!

Personally...it would be all drawers for me. Easier access and easier organization. IMHO...

[William Fretwell]

The bottom of the cabinet is a poor design with the wheels. The added bracing may be adequate but building a braced box even 4" high and moving the wheels outside the box would be far more rigid. You can avoid dado joints altogether. I build lots of cabinets.
Build two 4" inch fully enclosed braced boxes with one face of each having an overhang. The vertical members abut the back & sides constrained by the overhang. No dadoes. No flex. Your cabinet will be rock solid. Yes you loose some 'shelf' space but that should be very secondary to the fundamental design.
The bottom overhang can be doubled up at the sides and the wheel stance widened for stability.

[Julie Moriarty]

Personally...it would be all drawers for me. Easier access and easier organization. IMHO...
I agree, Jim. Since the cabinet is almost two feet deep, drawers make the most sense. But I have some things, like that tile saw, I have no place for and it has squatted on the bottom of that cabinet. Squatter's Rights demands at least one door! :rolleyes:

[Jim Becker]

Yes, for the tile saw, a door would make sense.

Of course, my tile saw is in it's original box in the upstairs of my shop. I actually used it a year ago when I renovated my older daughter's bathroom. I probably should just sell it since I don't see any potential need for it in this house ever again... :)

[Julie Moriarty]

Of course, my tile saw is in it's original box in the upstairs of my shop. I actually used it a year ago when I renovated my older daughter's bathroom. I probably should just sell it since I don't see any potential need for it in this house ever again... :)
IMHO, the best place for a tile saw is on the store shelf, out of reach for people like me who hate doing tile work. :D

I've had the chance to use the miter saw setup and it sure is nice to be able to easily cut pieces to the exact same length. I made some cuts with the old portable stand, which had a stop feature, and they were off by 1/16" to 1/8". That portable stand was sold the other day.

[bennie blackwell]

Julie: You have about 9 months of use of the mobile stand so how about an update. The lessons learned are always of value to those of us that are considering going down the same path. I have never seen the tent hood to capture the saw dust. What was your source for this? How do you adjust things so that the left/right wings are co-planar with the miter saw? If you only use it as a cut off saw, this may not be important. If you want to produce finish quality cuts, then alignment is very important.

[bennie blackwell]

William: I am not sure I followed your suggestions on increasing strength of cabinet. Is this what you had in mind? I obviously left out some joinery details. Clarification would be appreciated.
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[Julie Moriarty]

Julie: You have about 9 months of use of the mobile stand so how about an update. The lessons learned are always of value to those of us that are considering going down the same path. I have never seen the tent hood to capture the saw dust. What was your source for this? How do you adjust things so that the left/right wings are co-planar with the miter saw? If you only use it as a cut off saw, this may not be important. If you want to produce finish quality cuts, then alignment is very important.
While I've used the miter cabinet seen in the last picture I posted countless times, I have not done anything yet with drawers or doors. That being said, there have been a few times I've used the slide feature but for the most part the length the drop down wings add have been sufficient for most all the cuts I've made. I think maybe twice I've used the slide out extensions.

The Kreg miter saw fence kit is dead-on-accurate but the drop down wings caused me to cut the steel tape and that tiny gap can cause measurements on either side of the break to be inaccurate. I decided to make the wing section the accurate side and measure inside of that.

The dust hood is something typically used on the jobsite. I decided to see how it works in my shop. It's MUCH better than anything I had before. To capture more of the dust, I clipped canvas on either side the dust hood, from the MS. That really helps keep dust contained. I still don't have the DC ductwork piped to the MS. So sometimes I do without the DC. The dust hood still works pretty well.

As for co-planar, a little rap here or there get things in place. :cool:

The most practical and often used feature for me has been the wings. The ability to place long boards on the table and cut them easily is something I can't live without. I've cut 8/4 x 12 hardwood over 9' long and 5/4 x 14 hardwood 8' long and those wings made my work so much easier. I just had to flip the latter to finish the cut. Really, all the rest is just fluff.

[Thomas Crawford]

That seems to be a nice setup, especially when portability is required. Clearly, it's easy to customize, too. I think what you're doing with yours is great.

I built the more fixed Chris Gochenour cantilevered miter station from FWW a number of years ago. After watching the Timothy Wilmots videos that show his shop setup, I'm now honestly considering "re-skinning" it with a Festool MFT style top for more versatility. I'd still keep the miter saw in the same position, but change the tables to incorporate the 20mm hole setup as well as the clamping setups. It's only money... heh...heh... ;)

Hey Jim - old thread but do you have a link to the cantilevered station? Considering doing this instead of the roll around cart.

[John A Murray]

Here’s the link to the FWW mag. The plans start on page 52.

http://wood.woodtools.nov.ru/mag/fww/fww_2010_209.pdf

[Jim Becker]

Hey Jim - old thread but do you have a link to the cantilevered station? Considering doing this instead of the roll around cart.
I'm sorry, but I don't have a link to the original article, but I believe it was in FW.

[Thomas Crawford]

I'm sorry, but I don't have a link to the original article, but I believe it was in FW.

Thanks, I found an old copy on Amazon to order for a few bucks.

[Jim Becker]

It's a great setup, Thomas, and having the free space under it with the ability to support shelving and lumber storage up above is excellent.

"That said"...over the years, my needs have changed and I've occasionally had thoughts of removing it to better accommodate more shop space. I only use the miter saw for rough cutting to length most of the time since I have my slider for precision stuff. Otherwise, I mostly "put stuff" on the surfaces, such as the CNC cutters I'm using, my sander, my hand-tool chest, etc. Lumber storage moved upstairs long ago. The only thing that's kept me from operationalizing that change has been a reluctance to tear out something that I put a lot of myself into early on in my shop and woodworking experience. At this point, I could likely be better served by a smaller more portable miter saw setup that I can tuck out of the way and have that space back for assembly and finishing since the CNC machine usurped some of the space I previously dedicated to that kind of thing.