What is the right saw for the job? Small stuff...

[Brandon Hanley]

What saw should I be using to cut tiny stuff like 1/4 x 1/4 x 4in pieces? I've been using my cabinet saw or bandsaw but neither seems like the right tool for the job. Should I be using some sort of sled or jig for stuff like that or adding a new tool all together like a mini table saw or tickler blade runner or something? I've even considered buying the benchtop bandsaw from grizzly and setting it up specificallyfor tasks like this since my bigger g0555lanv is setup with the 6" riser block and do it all sort of blades I can use it for everything from small redrawing to handling stuff just a bit too big for the scroll saw. Using the g0691 just feels wrong and is downright scary for stuff this small.

Hopefully there is an affordable solution, I'm a little tight on funds right now.

[Andrew Hughes]

This has handsaw written all over it.;)
How accurate do your pieces need to be

[Bryan Lisowski]

I would make a small table saw sled. Use a pencil to hold the off cut piece.

[glenn bradley]

This would depend on how many I had to do. If I needed 20 I would use something like this (http://www.rockler.com/mini-combo-miter-saw-set?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=&utm_content=pla&utm_campaign=PL&sid=V9146&gclid=Cj0KCQiA0b_QBRCeARIsAFntQ9ryhrgQK4gvZy9FgvmQ GQ1k2eOCMKmBHInuTNZVIdhpu0Z8ToZfEY8aAl6tEALw_wcB)( and do). For more I would use one of my small sleds at the tablesaw.

[Rick Potter]

I am with Bryan on this.

Get a Freud 7 1/4" 60 tooth very narrow kerf skilsaw blade. Right now, HD has them two for $20. Then make a small sled for small work. You will love the small fine kerf blade for small stuff. The teeth are tiny.

Easy peasy, and cheep too.

[John K Jordan]

I wish I could remember the name of a saw I saw at friend Ellis's place in Pennsylvania. I didn't operate it myself so I can't remember too much but I was impressed with the scale and precision of the cut. It was a very compact table saw, heavy, well made, with a small diameter blade. If I remember correctly it had a means to secure very small stock and a precision means for cutting. He cut some little pieces maybe 1/4" square - it was made for that. I THINK it was made for preparing type for printing presses. Seems the mechanism was unconventional, maybe the saw rising through the top to cut instead of pushing the wood through. I thought it would be a perfect tool for a model shop. Sorry all this is so vague. It's been several years, but if I could somehow remember some details it would be a great saw to run down - I'd like to find one. (I guess I could send Ellis an email and ask him.)

It scares me to cut tiny parts on my table saw even with a zero clearance insert and a sliding table with clamps. I generally use the smaller bandsaw then clean up the best I can.

JKJ

[Bob Michaels]

If you don't mind spending some bucks Proxxon and others make mini table saws for people who do model railroad buildings. About 7 years ago, when I was interested in a mini table saw for small work such as you describe, I found a retired machinist in Florida who made these, upon special order for I think $500. Sounds extravagant but it was so precisely made that I consider it well worth the money. I don't use it often but, when I do, it's a pleasure to have. I also think the small sled with a thin kerf blade is good advice.

[Dave Zellers]

I'm with Andrew on this. Unless we are talking hundreds of pieces, a simple homemade jig with a stop and a cheap flush cutting Japanese hand saw would be my approach. I'm talking about the kind of flexible saw you would use to cut off bungs or dowels flush to the surface. Use a squared piece of stock to guide the first cut through the jig, set the stop, and cut them 4 at a time if not more.

[Brandon Hanley]

I am with Bryan on this.

Get a Freud 7 1/4" 60 tooth very narrow kerf skilsaw blade. Right now, HD has them two for $20. Then make a small sled for small work. You will love the small fine kerf blade for small stuff. The teeth are tiny.

Easy peasy, and cheep too.

Do I need a special saw for those blades or can they be used in a normal table saw that uses 10" blades? Me being the amateur that I am never even considered that was possible. If so that could be a great option for me with a sled since I have a spare portable table saw from before I got the g0691. It seemed to work fine I just didn't like the fence setup on it. The blade one square to the miter slot out of the box though. And I like the idea of using a different saw rather than having to make a bunch of changes to my grizzly just for a few cuts.

As for the number of pieces I see quite a few in my future. I am a total amateur that is just getting started and hope to someday be able to build guitars but right now all of my focus is on little trinket boxes and jewelry boxes made with the incra router table set-up and I use those little pieces 4-drawer support and to glue in a square on the lid of some of the boxes to make a flat piece of wood friction fit onto the top of a dovetail box. Like the one below. Try not to laugh.

[Joe Jensen]

If you don't mind spending some bucks Proxxon and others make mini table saws for people who do model railroad buildings. About 7 years ago, when I was interested in a mini table saw for small work such as you describe, I found a retired machinist in Florida who made these, upon special order for I think $500. Sounds extravagant but it was so precisely made that I consider it well worth the money. I don't use it often but, when I do, it's a pleasure to have. I also think the small sled with a thin kerf blade is good advice.

I'd love to see some pics of that

[Jim Becker]

Even if you were using a slider, you'd want to be using jigs to safely cut those small components...so yes, to your question about sleds and the like and with that, you can very likely use your existing saws to do the work.

[Derek Cohen]

I have a slider. But this is what I'd use .... the smallest Miller's Falls mitre box (#15 1/2) ...

https://s19.postimg.org/bb2z3vkwz/mitrebox4.jpg

Regards from Perth

Derek

[bill kaminski]

a luthiers miter box

[andy bessette]

I use a Japanese razor saw and fixed miter box (mine is plastic, but the wooden ones are better).

[Bradley Gray]

If you need to cut a lot and need precision, look for a Hammond Glider.( info on OWWM)
For occasional smalls, a mitre box or Japanese Dozuki back saw. (there are some cool magnetic guides at Japan Woodworker)

[Mike Heidrick]

1/8 side leg on a gripper and my tablesaw

[Rick Potter]

Yes, skilsaw blades (or circular saw) fit your Griz. Both have 5/8" arbor.

[Pat Barry]

This has handsaw written all over it.;)
How accurate do your pieces need to be
I get the impression that he will be doing both cross-cutting and ripping to make the pieces he described. I don't think a handsaw is going to do the job for ripping many 1/4 x 1/4 pieces but it can certainly do the job for cutting the pieces to length. I think I need to know more about what the stock size is though before making recommendations on what tools to use.

[Dennis Tebo]

For Joe,

This would do the job for the OP, but probably out of the budget for the needs. Its a Byrnes Model Machine table saw, $450. There are plenty of accessories to go with it, like a micrometer, extended rip fence and others. You can do some very precise work with this saw. No problems ripping 4/4 hardwood, not fast, but it'll get the job done.

371925371926371927

Very handy for those small pieces.

Dennis

[andy bessette]

For model building and other small scale woodworking requiring great precision I have an ancient 8" Sears cast iron, tilt-table saw fitted with a 4" 40-tooth carbide blade and homemade zero clearance insert. Though portable it is extremely heavy, but does remarkably accurate work. I've owned this saw for many decades, so don't know its present value. But surely these can be purchased rather cheaply.

https://s26.postimg.org/qwl7l38ll/sears-saw-1.jpg (https://postimages.org/)
https://s26.postimg.org/ognzkzfwp/sears-saw-2.jpg (https://postimages.org/)
https://s26.postimg.org/4akhm3k95/sears-saw-3.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

[John K Jordan]

This would do the job for the OP, but probably out of the budget for the needs. Its a Byrnes Model Machine table saw, $450. There are plenty of accessories to go with it, like a micrometer, extended rip fence and others. You can do some very precise work with this saw. No problems ripping 4/4 hardwood, not fast, but it'll get the job done.


I want one! From looking at micro table saws it seems some prefer the MicroLux/Proxxon for the tilt but others report problems. None appear to be the quality of the Byrnes.

JKJ

[Brandon Hanley]

I get the impression that he will be doing both cross-cutting and ripping to make the pieces he described. I don't think a handsaw is going to do the job for ripping many 1/4 x 1/4 pieces but it can certainly do the job for cutting the pieces to length. I think I need to know more about what the stock size is though before making recommendations on what tools to use.

I'm basically starting with 3ft x 7ft x 3in cherry slabs end taking off what I need from there.

And yes the issue is with all cuts tiny weather or be crosscut, rip, or 45 Deg miter. I thought about getting one of the small 7in kobalt miter saws for at least handling the crosscut and 45s but I am liking the idea of a sled 4 my old job site saw better and better. I would prefer one that is already pre-made but I am not sure if such a thing even exist for the small jobsite saws. I have been considering the Rockler and incra versions for my grizzly.

[Pat Barry]

I'm basically starting with 3ft x 7ft x 3in cherry slabs end taking off what I need from there.

And yes the issue is with all cuts tiny weather or be crosscut, rip, or 45 Deg miter. I thought about getting one of the small 7in kobalt miter saws for at least handling the crosscut and 45s but I am liking the idea of a sled 4 my old job site saw better and better. I would prefer one that is already pre-made but I am not sure if such a thing even exist for the small jobsite saws. I have been considering the Rockler and incra versions for my grizzly.
I would want to re-saw and thickness plane the slabs to a more manageable thickness - lets say 1/4 inch like you need for the finished parts. So,to do the re-saw you'd want the bandsaw, then you could finish on the tablesaw with rip fence and / or sled. If you do go the table saw sled method make sure its a zero clearance base so you can more safely handle the off-cuts from small pieces.

[Ted Phillips]

I like the Nobex mitre saws for crosscutting small stuff. Incredibly accurate and fast.

371986

[Alice W Falls]

You can try benchtop table saw, you need some sort of surface to use it on.

They are generally small and easy to move around, so they will sit neatly on a small workshop bench or any other sort of makeshift platform.

They would be right at home on a makeshift bench made out of sawhorses and a sheet of wood, or on an outdoor table, or any place like that.
Some benchtop table saws will include a stand, but most wont the option to pay a little extra for one to be included is more common.

[Jim Becker]

You can try benchtop table saw, you need some sort of surface to use it on.

They are generally small and easy to move around, so they will sit neatly on a small workshop bench or any other sort of makeshift platform.

They would be right at home on a makeshift bench made out of sawhorses and a sheet of wood, or on an outdoor table, or any place like that.
Some benchtop table saws will include a stand, but most wont the option to pay a little extra for one to be included is more common.

For the type of detail work the OP wants to do, a typical mass-market bench top saw isn't going to have the precision needed most likely. That's why in a few posts above, some of the specialized model-making bench top saws were offered as an alternative as they are specifically designed for small work and have much closer tolerances.

[Mark Gibney]

Interesting thread. I noticed nobody recommended the GRR Micro Jig. Is this designed to do exactly what the OP needs? - or is it just for ripping?

371996

[Peter Christensen]

Well you could go the sliding table handsaw (http://www.bridgecitytools.com/default/tools/jointmaker/jointmakers/jmpv2-jointmaker-pro.html) route. ;) Watch the video.

[Ole Anderson]

A zero clearance insert (ZCI) would be a good start.

[Ed Labadie]

As mentioned earlier, a Hammond Glider.

They were a printers saw.......

Ed

[Bob Michaels]

Joe, I will try to post photos tomorrow.

[Bob Michaels]

Yup, that's the one that I have too. It truly is a masterpiece. Bob Michaels.

[Bob Michaels]

Joe, see Dennis Tebo's post with photos further down, that's the saw. You can get an idea of the small scale by comparing it to the left and right miter slots of the full size table saw.

[Brandon Hanley]

I would want to re-saw and thickness plane the slabs to a more manageable thickness - lets say 1/4 inch like you need for the finished parts. So,to do the re-saw you'd want the bandsaw, then you could finish on the tablesaw with rip fence and / or sled. If you do go the table saw sled method make sure its a zero clearance base so you can more safely handle the off-cuts from small pieces. that would be my first step if I planned to use it all for the same boxes, but I doubt even a quarter of one of those slabs will be used for this same design. I'd hate to turn them into small pieces that I can only use for certain projects if I don't have to.


Interesting thread. I noticed nobody recommended the GRR Micro Jig. Is this designed to do exactly what the OP needs? - or is it just for ripping?

371996
Only for ripping as far as I know. I have been wanting to get one for a while though since most of the instructional videos I watch on YouTube all have one and seem to swear by it for safety

I have spent a lot of time thinking about this lately trying to make a smart decision while still taking into account not only cost, but also space required, amount of use, and accessories needed to go along with each method. The more I think about it the more it makes sense for me to just get one of the incra sleds. I am kind of torn between the incra express and 1000se combo or the incra 5000 sled and a secondary miter gauge whether it be the 1000se or one of their cheaper miter gauges since the one in my Grizzly Binds in the channel I sometimes wonder if it was dropped before I bought it.

[Mike Cutler]

A mitre box with a stop.
I had to make a zillion little "accent" pieces out of ebony for our kitchen cabinets, 5/16ths square, by a 1/4" thick. My Keen Kutter Mitre did them as quick as any machine would have.

[Brad Shipton]

One of these would be nice. http://www.bridgecitytools.com/default/tools/jointmaker/jointmakers.html Videos: http://www.bridgecitytools.com/default/tools/jointmaker/jointmakers/jmpv2-jointmaker-pro.html

Re-read first post about funds. I suggest the hand saw like others.

[Bill Adamsen]

Four inches is pretty long. For just one, a handsaw, for just a few the power miter, if it's hundreds I'd stack them up on a sled with a stop on the cabinet saw (with a fine-tooth cutoff blade) and have at it. A power miter with a stop is problematic because when you lift the saw you'll pickup the cutoffs with the backdrag on the teeth.

[Brian Holcombe]

Order of operations counts here, I would cut to width then resaw for thickness, then hand plane to a finish and finally cut to length.

This is not so hard, use a shooting board and cut to length with a handsaw.

[Bill Graham]

What saw should I be using to cut tiny stuff like 1/4 x 1/4 x 4in pieces? I've been using my cabinet saw or bandsaw but neither seems like the right tool for the job. Should I be using some sort of sled or jig for stuff like that or adding a new tool all together like a mini table saw or tickler blade runner or something? I've even considered buying the benchtop bandsaw from grizzly and setting it up specificallyfor tasks like this since my bigger g0555lanv is setup with the 6" riser block and do it all sort of blades I can use it for everything from small redrawing to handling stuff just a bit too big for the scroll saw. Using the g0691 just feels wrong and is downright scary for stuff this small.

Hopefully there is an affordable solution, I'm a little tight on funds right now.

Just make a small crosscut sled for your Grizz. Or buy the Miter 5000 (http://www.incrementaltools.com/INCRA_Miter_5000_p/miter5000.htm) package from Incra but that seems like total overkill for what you're doing, unless you're mitering or need angled cuts on that small stock.