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View Full Version : Cermark Dishwasher Safe + Yeti Laser Settings



Liesl Dexheimer
11-17-2017, 9:10 AM
I'm 99.9% sure Cermark is dishwasher safe correct? I have used Cermark on my license plate which I've had for 6+ years through NE winters so I'm pretty sure it won't wash off in a dishwasher.

Also, does anyone have suggestions for Yeti powder coated Rambler Colster settings? I have a 35 watt Epilog & was thinking of using 100% power and 75% speed. Your thoughts??...

Mike Null
11-17-2017, 9:33 AM
100 power for sure but I would scale back the speed to 20 or 25. I run all of my Cermark at 600 dpi as well.

Liesl Dexheimer
11-17-2017, 9:49 AM
When I use Cermark on the Yeti stainless steel tumblers I use 10% speed. Are you saying I should use 20% to 25% speed for the powder coated ones without the use of Cermark?

Mike Null
11-17-2017, 12:43 PM
Sorry, I mis-read your post. Yes, I use a higher speed on powder coat than on Cermark. Try 20%.

Mike DeRegnaucourt
11-20-2017, 10:49 AM
I'm 99.9% sure Cermark is dishwasher safe correct? I have used Cermark on my license plate which I've had for 6+ years through NE winters so I'm pretty sure it won't wash off in a dishwasher.

Also, does anyone have suggestions for Yeti powder coated Rambler Colster settings? I have a 35 watt Epilog & was thinking of using 100% power and 75% speed. Your thoughts??...

As far as Cermark being Dishwasher safe, yes it is. However, correct me if I am wrong but I believe Yet's and other double-walled vacuum sealed drink coolers are to be hand washed and not put in a dishwasher. I supposed it has to do with possibly breaking the vacuum seal between the walls. If the vacuum seal is broken then the insulating properties (and thus performance) suffer greatly.

Liesl Dexheimer
11-22-2017, 11:22 AM
I had no idea how tough the powder coating is on the Yeti's. I have a 35 watt laser so that could be part of the problem. I'm engraving @ 600 dpi, 100 power & 8% speed (first pic). I tried 6% but oddly enough the engraving was even worse (see 2nd pic). All I can figure is that it may have been out of focus. I've auto focused one of the coozies and kept it at that setting. It's almost as if each one may need to be auto focused since the thickness of the coating may vary slightly?...?

Are the JDS Polar Camel tumblers any different? Do they have a thinner coating to them?

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Mike Null
11-23-2017, 7:30 AM
Liesl
For me the Yeti black is the easiest of the powder coated finishes. I get a consistently good result with one pass at 100p, 27s, 500 dpi. My machine is 45 watts and is a fast machine in the raster mode. I use a cleaner and Magic Eraser after engraving.

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Liesl Dexheimer
11-24-2017, 10:05 AM
Wow, that's amazing! I'm totally bummed these didn't come out as good as yours. I autofocused each one after I did a few with not the greatest results. Still didn't matter. I used my rotary attachment and double checked that the mug was level which it was. Given your settings and machine I'm wondering if my laser tube is on it's way out as it's almost 13 years old. :(

Liesl Dexheimer
11-27-2017, 2:05 PM
Do you think I used too slow of a speed (8%) which caused melting or bleeding? Is that even possible with a powder coating?

Gary Hair
11-27-2017, 4:39 PM
Not likely with 35 watts

Liesl Dexheimer
11-29-2017, 8:09 AM
Then perhaps my tube is on it's way out. :(

I know there are laser meters but I believe there is also some test and math formula to find laser output. I thought I read something either in Engraver's Journal or A&E about this formula within the last few months. Does anyone know what I'm talking about or have a link to the article? I tried doing a search on both websites but didn't find anything.

Tim Bateson
11-29-2017, 8:43 AM
... I autofocused each one after I did a few with not the greatest results. ...

I wouldn't use/trust auto-focus, Just your your gauge for focusing. See if that makes a difference. I pulled my auto-focus plunger out of my Mini, years ago.

Mike Null
11-29-2017, 12:31 PM
Here's the red Yeti done in two passes

.[ATTACH=CONFIG]

Liesl Dexheimer
11-29-2017, 2:01 PM
I was afraid to engrave a 2nd pass on these since I was using the rotary attachment. I've tried re-engraving with the rotary attachment before but it didn't line up properly the 2nd time. :(

I've called my customer & told him I wasn't as happy as I thought I would be with the end result so I'm not charging him as much as I had originally quoted.

I guess I'll have to buy one & experiment.

I have noticed that cutting through 1/8" thick plywood has been problematic and I am giving a little more power on cutting & engraving plastic as well so I'm wondering if it could be my laser tube.

Gary Hair
11-29-2017, 3:55 PM
I was afraid to engrave a 2nd pass on these since I was using the rotary attachment. I've tried re-engraving with the rotary attachment before but it didn't line up properly the 2nd time. :(

I've called my customer & told him I wasn't as happy as I thought I would be with the end result so I'm not charging him as much as I had originally quoted.

I guess I'll have to buy one & experiment.

I have noticed that cutting through 1/8" thick plywood has been problematic and I am giving a little more power on cutting & engraving plastic as well so I'm wondering if it could be my laser tube.

You may have a tube issue but there is definitely a big difference in powder coating, as everyone else has said. Even if your laser was putting out the full 35 watts you would still have trouble. I have an 80 watt machine and it takes multiple passes to get a clean mark on powdercoat. The alignment issue on your rotary is a separate problem - do you have the hot-dog roller type or cone type? If hot-dog then you'll never be able to do multiple passes, if cone then you should.

Liesl Dexheimer
11-30-2017, 4:26 PM
It does seem that powder coating could be the issue since some of them came out pretty decent and others didn't.

I'm thinking I have the hot-dog roller type of rotary attachment. See photo.

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Doug Fisher
11-30-2017, 10:54 PM
That looks like a nice four wheel design. Definitely not what most of us think of as a hot dog roller type. Hot dog roller usually refers to the cheaper rotary units that usually have three long knurled metal rotating tubes. So named because they kind of look like the hot dog roller often found near the cashier stand at the local 7-11 convenience store where hot dogs rotate/roast for hours and hours and hours under a heat lamp.


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Gary Hair
12-01-2017, 6:02 AM
It does seem that powder coating could be the issue since some of them came out pretty decent and others didn't.

I'm thinking I have the hot-dog roller type of rotary attachment. See photo.

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Yep, that’s a hot dog roller. If there isn’t a way to get positive control on the piece you are engraving then you can’t reliably engrave with multiple passes, this is especially true with tapered pieces.

Gary Hair
12-01-2017, 6:04 AM
That looks like a nice four wheel design. Definitely not what most of us think of as a hot dog roller type. Hot dog roller usually refers to the cheaper rotary units that usually have three long knurled metal rotating tubes. So named because they kind of look like the hot dog roller often found near the cashier stand at the local 7-11 convenience store where hot dogs rotate/roast for hours and hours and hours under a heat lamp.


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It may be a nicer version but it’s still using the same mechanism to rotate the item - friction and gravity. In certain circumstances one may be more reliable than the other, but in the end they are still very inaccurate with regards to multiple passes.

Liesl Dexheimer
12-01-2017, 7:56 AM
Thank you for the explanation. At least now I know what I have. Are the powder coated polar camel tumblers any easier to engrave then Yeti's?

Mike Null
12-01-2017, 7:59 AM
Liesl

Gary is right. You need the cone version to do accurate repeat engravings. I am doing so many of the Yeti/yeti type cups now I can pay for the rotary cone device every week. I can't think of a single tool that has paid for itself so fast or so often.

Color on these cups is the wave of the future--that often means multiple passes.

Gary Hair
12-01-2017, 8:23 AM
Thank you for the explanation. At least now I know what I have. Are the powder coated polar camel tumblers any easier to engrave then Yeti's?

Both Yeti and Rtic behave the same for me but never having engraved anything else I can't say for sure how they would work out, but I'm guessing they will be similar.

Tim Bateson
12-01-2017, 10:52 AM
...Gary is right. You need the cone version to do accurate repeat engravings....

What is a "cone version"? I use a Chuck rotary for repeat accuracy.

Mike Null
12-01-2017, 11:04 AM
Tim
The cone is an option with Trotec. I wish I had a chuck but for the cups and most other cylindrical work, the cone tool is dead accurate.

Doug Fisher
12-01-2017, 11:32 AM
Tim, this is the cone version. The cones are supposed to make swapping pieces as well as centering them faster and a bit less fiddly while also providing good grip.

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Wieke makes the following set of optional cones to install on their chuck rotaries. You could make your own to fit your current chuck rotary.

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The good four wheel design with its rubber covered wheels are a bit more accurate due to less slip compared to the hot dog roller with its bare metal wheels. The four wheel rotary usually has a built in height adjustment function that is nice too. Liesl, for items with decent sized openings, especially lightweight items, have you tried inserting weight of some type (e.g. small sandbags)? That can help reduce slippage/inaccuracy.

Liesl Dexheimer
12-01-2017, 1:16 PM
No, I haven't tried some sort of weight although the thought did cross my mind once. I will have to try and experiment some time with small sandbags or some other sort of weight.