Delta Unifence price?

[Dick Brown]

I just bought a Delta hybrid cabinet saw with the Unifence today. Thinking of keeping the saw but am not a fan of the Unifence. May sell the fence and build a Biesemeyer clone for the saw. My question is, I think there are two Unifences, old style and new, how do I tell the difference and what should I ask for it, which ever it is? Thanks for your thoughts on this.
Dick
p.s.
Fence looks to be in good condition.

[Mike Kees]

Just wondering why you are not a fan of Unifences ?There are so many things that you can do with a Uni that are harder on a bies style fence. I have both and like both but overall prefer the Unifence for the extra versatility of the high/low fence, and being able to use a short fence for a cut off stop when cross cutting etc. Old fences had same rail,differences are in the head,plastic nuts to adjust yaw and slightly better adjustability. How long is the rail ? somewhere in the 150-200+ range depending on age-condition and length of the rail (longer ones worth slightly more).

[Jim Becker]

I share Mike's question...the UniFence, while certainly less convenient than the typical tee-square fence for attaching jigs, affords a lot of utility with both the tall and low position. In fact, that low position can offer greater safety when ripping material because it gives more clearance for your hands/pushstick/pushblock. And being able to pull the fence back for use as a stop for cross cutting or to have the end even with the back of the blade for certain types of cutting is a major benefit. There's a reason that pretty much every Euro machine has that format of fence. The Delta contractor's style saw I originally had in my shop early on had the UniFence and I loved it. When I upgraded to a Jet LT cabinet saw, I truly missed that UniFence for as long as I owned that saw, and was so happy to get that style back when I upgraded to my current sliding table saw.

That said, UniFences are not all that easy to find sometimes, so if the one you have is in great condition and you really do want to sell it, you should be able to get a few shekels for it on the used market.

[David Kumm]

There is also a company that makes an extrusion for Unifence that makes attaching jigs much easier. I use them on my old Whitney 77. Dave

[Bill Adamsen]

Jim points out some of the benefits of the Unifence, in fact one (crosscut stop) that I never considered, but should have been obvious. I've had two Unifences and they had slight differences between them. But there may have been more models with more significant differences. The two differences on mine were the cursor lens mount (top screw versus inside) and the parallel adjust (Allen versus hex). But the fence housings were basically otherwise the same. I have seen folks fit an 8020 extrusion in place of the factory fence, which allowed mounting some custom jigs.

I have in the past complained about the Unifence, primarily the time and effort to switch between right and left (of the blade) mounting. But it does (as Jim noted) have other positive attributes that weight in its favor.

The low position – if I remember correctly – was designed for cutting laminate panels so that the fence could rest against the material being cut with the laminate or veneer riding under the fence. Clever but less of a selling feature in today's market where laminate is used less frequently.

In terms of value ... likely the biggest consideration would be the fence guiderail length which was available in three lengths ... 96", 50" and 30". Probably hard to ship so it will depend on local demand.

[David Kumm]

The extrusion itself sells easier. 200-250 for the whole thing, 100-125 for the extrusion alone if not scarred. Dave

[andy bessette]

I have Unisaws with Unifence and Biesmeyer and really like both.

[Charles Lent]

I have the 54" Unifence on my Unisaw at home and have the Uni-T-40" Fence extrusion from Peach Tree Woodworking for it. I also have their 16" stubby version of the Uni-T-Fence extrusion because my shop is small, and pulling the fence extrusion back to use it as a cross cutting stop blocks completely my narrow walkway. I awitch the fence extrusions frequently, even back to the original Unifence extrusion, depending on what I'm cutting on the saw. I use an old Biesmeier at work, but I smile at my Unifence when I come home and use it. I have tried several times to get the fence at work replaced with a Unifence, without success, but I think in this the Biesmeier still works, so they won't spend the money I think that if you kept the Unifence on your saw for 6 months, you wouldn't want to get rid of it.

Charley

[Bill McNiel]

I've been using the Unifence for 30+ years and agree with all the positives stated above and have no complaints at all, but what works for one doesn't always work for someone else.

[Dick Brown]

Well, you Unifence lovers, I have to admit that after cleaning, lubricating and adjusting, the fence works very well. Still waiting for info on new and old models, how to tell apart, etc. Also any more feelings on $$ value? No, I don't want to sell my Biesemeyer.

[Charles Lent]

If it came on a Delta Hybrid saw, it's the new version since Hybrid Saws aren't very old, younger in fact than my Unisaw. My Unisaw came with the Unifence and the saw. It is a mid 1980's saw and I'm reasonably certain that it is the new version Unifence and that it was original to the saw.

Charley

[Cary Falk]

I can't help you on the difference but I think $100-200 would be a fair price.

[Joe Calhoon]

I’m restoring a old Unisaw to give my son. I paid about $200 for a used unifence.

[Curt Harms]

There is also a company that makes an extrusion for Unifence that makes attaching jigs much easier. I use them on my old Whitney 77. Dave

Right here:

https://www.ptreeusa.com/tablesaw_unifence.html

I have a Mule Cab fence on my G1023. It too has T slots on 3 faces.

[Alan Schaffter]

Well, you Unifence lovers, I have to admit that after cleaning, lubricating and adjusting, the fence works very well. Still waiting for info on new and old models, how to tell apart, etc. Also any more feelings on $$ value? No, I don't want to sell my Biesemeyer.

There were at least two or three fence head castings. I believe the newer one has large black bolts to adjustment for skew, the old one had smaller set screws and different lever. I only have a shot of the bottom of mine but there are plenty of photos on the web- just Google it.

Newer style:

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/500/medium/PB270059.JPG

http://s3.amazonaws.com/finewoodworking.s3.tauntoncloud.com/app/uploads/2016/09/06080813/Unifence-thinrip.jpg

Old-style

https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7006/6455721345_0e9a1b1d98_b.jpg

Also, they changed the design of the heavy aluminum rail and how it attaches to the saw. The rail was also available in black annodized. The old one had holes in the back- it was real pain to slide nuts in the slot- to attach it to the saw. The new one has T-slots for bolt heads to attach it to the saw. I have one of each. The newer one is much nicer.:

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/500/Wixey-1.JPG

[Dick Brown]

Thanks guys,
Looks like it is the old style fence and rail. Have cleaned up the saw, lubed all the gears etc, painted it, putting a new table to right side with Formica top for 32" cut, cleaned and painted Delta movable base. Delta model 36-750 saw, runs smooth. What should I ask for it? I sure don't need it and could use the room as there are four other saws waiting for a refurbish.
Picked up a Uni jr. the other day which should be a fun project as well as a Powermatic 66 basket case, a Craftsman and a Wards Power Craft so shouldn't run out of things to do this winter! Hope to find time to do a little woodworking also.

[Todd Bender]

Any chance you still have the unifence?

[Dick Brown]

Sorry, long gone.
Dick

[Todd Bender]

Figured. Thanks.

[Alan Schaffter]

I gotta (old style) front rail if you ever find a head casting and fence.

[John Glazier]

Alan .... just saw your post even though it's a year and a half later. Do you still have the uni-fence rail? I am in need of one and any length is fine. My new shop is very narrow so I would have to cut a long one down but that's easy to do.
Thanks .... John

[Alan Schaffter]

Yes, I still have the Uni-fence assembly front rail. It is about 83" long and the older style. See my post on page one for the photo that shows the difference between the new and old ones- it only affects how the rail is attached to the saw. I do not have the head casting nor the rip fence. The rail appearance is far from new- it has some scratches and a few areas where I lightly sanded it to remove a bur, which, as you can guess, changes the appearance of the gray aluminum anodizing. It does not have the tape scale either.