False Cabinet panel design ideas?

[Andrew Wayland]

I’m building some shaker-style cabinets for a home bar. I have an appliance that I’d like to cover, but due to clearance issues, Standard cabinet doors won’t work.


So I’m thinking of making a panel that looks like two cabinet doors and a single wide drawer above (perhaps two drawers, if that works better?): but I’m unsure how to go about it. I don’t want to make it too heavy, and there isn’t enough clearance behind the panel due to the appliance protruding (so I can’t simply mount a couple of doors and drawer face to a piece of plywood greater than 1/4”.


I’m wondering if building the frame as a single unit and then routing in a “gap” to simulate different panels would work? Such as the dotted lines shown in my crummy sketch?

371423


Or is there a better method I’m missing?

[Andrew Wayland]

Sorry for the duplicate photos...

[larry senen]

your idea of a routed line will work, but i think i would make 4 fronts and glue/join them edge to edge.

[Rick Malakoff]

That's the way I've done it in the past. All you need is a saw kerf for the shadow.

"I’m wondering if building the frame as a single unit and then routing in a “gap” to simulate different panels would work? Such as the dotted lines shown in my crummy sketch?"

[Jamie Buxton]

I don't get it. If you have a clearance problem with two conventional doors, how would it help to make them one door?

[Steve Jenkins]

Sure that will work. Either rout or saw for the reveal depending on how wide you want it. When I make fronts for a bank of drawers I make it as one unit then crosscut at the center of the rails. This gives a continuous grain on the stiles and matching grain on the rails.

[Andrew Wayland]

your idea of a routed line will work, but i think i would make 4 fronts and glue/join them edge to edge.

Its a big panel, and my selection of clamps at the moment isn’t the greatest (working on it!). I considered this: but just figured trying to use one piece of stock would be easier with the tools I have.


That's the way I've done it in the past. All you need is a saw kerf for the shadow.

"I’m wondering if building the frame as a single unit and then routing in a “gap” to simulate different panels would work? Such as the dotted lines shown in my crummy sketch?"


Ah: I have no idea why I didn’t even consider a saw? How wide and deep do you typically recommend? Does painting the gap black help with the effect any?


I don't get it. If you have a clearance problem with two conventional doors, how would it help to make them one door?

The appliance faces a narrow entrance to the bar: adding doors on hinges wouldn’t give me the room needed to maneuver the appliance easily.

If if I make a panel that mimics doors, I can just slide it aside and get to the appliance if needed much easier.


Sure that will work. Either rout or saw for the reveal depending on how wide you want it. When I make fronts for a bank of drawers I make it as one unit then crosscut at the center of the rails. This gives a continuous grain on the stiles and matching grain on the rails.

Ah, that’s a smart idea!

[Jamie Buxton]

You might consider magnets to hold the panel in place. They unsnap without tools. Look at lee valley for them.

[Andrew Wayland]

You might consider magnets to hold the panel in place. They unsnap without tools. Look at lee valley for them.

Thats what I was hoping to use... if I can find a set that will fit the application!

[Jim Becker]

That's the way I've done it in the past. All you need is a saw kerf for the shadow.


That's how I handled the "doors" and "drawers" on the back side of some cabinets in our kitchen that are exposed to the eating area. The reveals are essentially saw kerfs on the edges of the "doors" and "drawers" which were built to fully fill the space so no light would leak through. The kerfs are about half the thickness. The only clue that they don't open is that there are no visible hinges on that side. (my cabinetry uses butt-style hinges and it's all face frame with full inset)

[Bill Dufour]

You can hang the panel on some small screws or nails. May need magnets anyway to stop it rattling when the appliance is on.

[Rick Malakoff]

Andrew,

No more than an eighth of an inch wide and a quarter to three eighths deep, as for painting I have used a sharpie and/or a carpenters pencil in a pinch.

"Ah: I have no idea why I didn’t even consider a saw? How wide and deep do you typically recommend? Does painting the gap black help with the effect any?"

Rick