Mike Allen1010
11-06-2017, 10:15 PM
As I mentioned in part one, construction/joinery for this chest is unusual; here’s the front panel -the chest stiles are joined to rails by M&T’s. The rails top and bottom are joined to sides of the chest by dovetails. Hopefully that’ll make more sense with subsequent pictures
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4471/37519384214_0b8069d135_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/ZasDLJ)1 (https://flic.kr/p/ZasDLJ) by Mike Allen (https://www.flickr.com/photos/157847244@N02/), on Flickr
Here is sawing out the tennons. For the ripping/cheeks I like a sturdy saw plate – this is a shop built saw with .025”thick plate. For the cheeks, a shop built .015” thick plate crosscut back saw – one of my favorite tools.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4457/38175123916_c5023f6c6b_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/21apukE)3 (2) (https://flic.kr/p/21apukE) by Mike Allen (https://www.flickr.com/photos/157847244@N02/), on Flickr
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4521/38230561591_d2d63b59e5_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/21fiC2D)3.5 (https://flic.kr/p/21fiC2D) by Mike Allen (https://www.flickr.com/photos/157847244@N02/), on Flickr
The bottom rail is proud of the front of the chest. Because I’m using 4/4 stock, stiles are joined with open lap joints that will later be screwed.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4563/38198337642_df0b1a18a6_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/21cssYj)3 (https://flic.kr/p/21cssYj) by Mike Allen (https://www.flickr.com/photos/157847244@N02/), on Flickr
In frame and panel construction getting the show surfaces to fit tightly with M&T joints is key. I like to do most paring freehand with chisels, but for this a job where a finally set shoulder plane really works well.
Here’s the dry assembly before the dovetails are cut in top and bottom rails.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4586/38230560961_9d3004abf4_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/21fiBQM)5 (https://flic.kr/p/21fiBQM) by Mike Allen (https://www.flickr.com/photos/157847244@N02/), on Flickr
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4533/38198337272_a98f265fed_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/21cssRW)6 (https://flic.kr/p/21cssRW) by Mike Allen (https://www.flickr.com/photos/157847244@N02/), on Flickr
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4528/38230560651_0dea6ed01b_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/21fiBKr)7 (https://flic.kr/p/21fiBKr) by Mike Allen (https://www.flickr.com/photos/157847244@N02/), on Flickr
Again because the bottom rails are proud of the vertical plane of the carcass by 3/16”, the panel fits into the bottom rail with an open, stopped rabbit. Stopped rabbit/grooves are a headache for me and I usually try and avoid them in the design. When necessary, like in this case, marking gauge and paring chisels work you better for me than rabbit planes that don’t reach to the end of the groove/rabbit.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4479/38198336822_1f63ea4730_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/21cssJb)8 (https://flic.kr/p/21cssJb) by Mike Allen (https://www.flickr.com/photos/157847244@N02/), on Flickr
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4471/37519384214_0b8069d135_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/ZasDLJ)1 (https://flic.kr/p/ZasDLJ) by Mike Allen (https://www.flickr.com/photos/157847244@N02/), on Flickr
Here is sawing out the tennons. For the ripping/cheeks I like a sturdy saw plate – this is a shop built saw with .025”thick plate. For the cheeks, a shop built .015” thick plate crosscut back saw – one of my favorite tools.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4457/38175123916_c5023f6c6b_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/21apukE)3 (2) (https://flic.kr/p/21apukE) by Mike Allen (https://www.flickr.com/photos/157847244@N02/), on Flickr
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4521/38230561591_d2d63b59e5_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/21fiC2D)3.5 (https://flic.kr/p/21fiC2D) by Mike Allen (https://www.flickr.com/photos/157847244@N02/), on Flickr
The bottom rail is proud of the front of the chest. Because I’m using 4/4 stock, stiles are joined with open lap joints that will later be screwed.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4563/38198337642_df0b1a18a6_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/21cssYj)3 (https://flic.kr/p/21cssYj) by Mike Allen (https://www.flickr.com/photos/157847244@N02/), on Flickr
In frame and panel construction getting the show surfaces to fit tightly with M&T joints is key. I like to do most paring freehand with chisels, but for this a job where a finally set shoulder plane really works well.
Here’s the dry assembly before the dovetails are cut in top and bottom rails.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4586/38230560961_9d3004abf4_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/21fiBQM)5 (https://flic.kr/p/21fiBQM) by Mike Allen (https://www.flickr.com/photos/157847244@N02/), on Flickr
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4533/38198337272_a98f265fed_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/21cssRW)6 (https://flic.kr/p/21cssRW) by Mike Allen (https://www.flickr.com/photos/157847244@N02/), on Flickr
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4528/38230560651_0dea6ed01b_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/21fiBKr)7 (https://flic.kr/p/21fiBKr) by Mike Allen (https://www.flickr.com/photos/157847244@N02/), on Flickr
Again because the bottom rails are proud of the vertical plane of the carcass by 3/16”, the panel fits into the bottom rail with an open, stopped rabbit. Stopped rabbit/grooves are a headache for me and I usually try and avoid them in the design. When necessary, like in this case, marking gauge and paring chisels work you better for me than rabbit planes that don’t reach to the end of the groove/rabbit.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4479/38198336822_1f63ea4730_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/21cssJb)8 (https://flic.kr/p/21cssJb) by Mike Allen (https://www.flickr.com/photos/157847244@N02/), on Flickr