GRK #8 1-1/2" Screws - issues?

[mike waters]

#8 1-1/2" screws
sorry the title is wrong

Using these screws.
3/32" pre-drilled


Any issues anyone can spot?
This is my first time ever building cabinets 370765370766

the screws are countersunk 11/32"

[Lee Schierer]

I would extend the pilot bit so your pilot holes are deeper. Also if you lubricate your screws with a bit of beeswax they will drive in with half the effort.

[Mark Bolton]

The first thing I see is how close together they are. Not sure where in your carcass this is but my gosh thats a lot of screws.

[David L Morse]

Is the diameter of your countersink bit too small for the self-countersinking heads on those screws? It looks like maybe the cutters on the bottom of the head are tearing up the wall of the drilled countersink hole.

[mike waters]

The first thing I see is how close together they are. Not sure where in your carcass this is but my gosh thats a lot of screws.

2" on center.
call me paranoid lol! It's my first cabinet!

[mike waters]

Does the screw really need to be deeper than this? I don't see why I should counter sink farther.

[mike waters]

Is the diameter of your countersink bit too small for the self-countersinking heads on those screws? It looks like maybe the cutters on the bottom of the head are tearing up the wall of the drilled countersink hole.

Nope. It is just tearout from the countersink. No biggie. Going to be covered with panels

[mike waters]

I would extend the pilot bit so your pilot holes are deeper. Also if you lubricate your screws with a bit of beeswax they will drive in with half the effort.
Hey lee. The screws are going on very easily actually

[Ken Kortge]

Any issues anyone can spot?

Nobody told me there would be a quiz today!!

Can you humor me and explain the problem you are having?

[mike waters]

Nobody told me there would be a quiz today!!

Can you humor me and explain the problem you are having?

Maybe I should rephrase the initial post !!
there isn't an issue I just want to make sure that I am doing things correctly

[Adam Herman]

i was looking for the 8 1/2 in grk screws.... I was thinking like timberloks.

what is the problem? looks ok to me.

[Victor Robinson]

Looks just fine as far as the screws go...but the real test is if your cabinet is square. :)

[mike waters]

i was looking for the 8 1/2 in grk screws.... I was thinking like timberloks.

what is the problem? looks ok to me.

I guess my initial post is confusing sorry about that there is it a problem that I can spot I just wanted to make sure that I'm not making any mistakes

[mike waters]

Looks just fine as far as the screws go...but the real test is if your cabinet is square. :)


All four sides are up I did not attach the back yet but all four sides are glued and screwed in dadoes

Corner to corner is off one 16th of an inch, I am fairly certain I can fix this once I attach the back tomorrow

[Martin Wasner]

I wouldn't bother with the countersink and I would just drive them until the head is just past the surface.

GRK's cut really well.

I run a 5" spacing when screwing backs on, and that's insane. 2" is something else entirely.

[mike waters]

hahaha thanks martin
yes, 2" is stupid (I know)
I was planing on doing 4" OC..

I was lucky the wood didn't split...

[Bill Adamsen]

I use 2" #7 black high threads for assembling carcases. Usually 5 screws on a side (22" to 23-1/2"). I'm careful to make the back (typically 1/2") the exact size of the carcase and use that to square and ensure the sides are straight (and parallel) during glue-up. I use either the 2" or 1-1/4" screws on the back typically around 6 inches apart. Most folks use staples for the backs but I like the holding power of screws. I would think you'd want to square before the glue sets.

[mike waters]

I use 2" #7 black high threads for assembling carcases. Usually 5 screws on a side (22" to 23-1/2"). I'm careful to make the back (typically 1/2") the exact size of the carcase and use that to square and ensure the sides are straight (and parallel) during glue-up. I use either the 2" or 1-1/4" screws on the back typically around 6 inches apart. Most folks use staples for the backs but I like the holding power of screws. I would think you'd want to square before the glue sets.

Think I will be ok with #8 1-1/2" that are countersinked 1/4"?370793

Seems to be pretty deep (to me)

[Randy Viellenave]

Mike, The screws should be countersunk only as far as you need to go. Unless you're stuffing a plug in after them (for aesthetics), keep them just below the surface, this will retain as much thickness as possible to apply force to the joint.

[Rich Engelhardt]

I wouldn't bother with the countersink and I would just drive them until the head is just past the surface.<--- This. Or - if you want to use the countersink - -switch over to wood screws. I love GRK & Timbermate, but, I've had a lot better luck getting wood screws to behave like I want them to.

(switch over to fewer screws like people are saying & )Smear some glue on there and it will take an act of God to make it come apart.

[Bill Adamsen]

Think I will be ok with #8 1-1/2" that are countersinked 1/4"?370793

Nice job with the rabbett and glue on baltic birch. Clean job, those should be strong.

GRK makes really fantastic screws, my favorite when they make a screw for the purpose 'm looking ... for instance I love their cabinet screws. Their R4 is a fantastic screw for solid wood ... love it for framing and GRK does the best job with fabricating a star drive screw. You will never get a metal splinter from GRK screws and the same cannot be said for the big box bugles. For sheet goods I just prefer a phillips drive bugle head. The heads of a #7 are a bit larger (about 15%) that the #8 R4, but frankly it is the speed at which they can be installed I prefer, as well as the price. I pre-drill and countersink, more to keep the panels from shifting and allow disassembling to glue and reassemble. The heads clamp down right at or below the surface. Just enough to allow cabinet carcases to stack next to each other.

[mike waters]

Nice job with the rabbett and glue on baltic birch. Clean job, those should be strong.

GRK makes really fantastic screws, my favorite when they make a screw for the purpose 'm looking ... for instance I love their cabinet screws. Their R4 is a fantastic screw for solid wood ... love it for framing and GRK does the best job with fabricating a star drive screw. You will never get a metal splinter from GRK screws and the same cannot be said for the big box bugles. For sheet goods I just prefer a phillips drive bugle head. The heads of a #7 are a bit larger (about 15%) that the #8 R4, but frankly it is the speed at which they can be installed I prefer, as well as the price. I pre-drill and countersink, more to keep the panels from shifting and allow disassembling to glue and reassemble. The heads clamp down right at or below the surface. Just enough to allow cabinet carcases to stack next to each other.

Thanks!
here is the finished carcass.
cut the next two today. Will assemble tomorrow.
Going with 5" oc for screw spacing.m
got the cabinet within 1/32" square. In happy :D