Cordless track saw???

[Nathan Callender]

So I'm trying with the idea of getting a track saw or EZ system and I've also thought about a cordless circular saw dinner most of the time I use a circular saw I'm outside and never want to deal out an extension cord. So, does anyone have experience with a battery powered track saw system and is it a good idea? I have a bunch of Ryobi one+ tools so I would really want to go with that saw if there's even a remote chance of it having the required accuracy.

[David T gray]

i always use dust collector with my track saw so something is always in the way.

[Jim Becker]

It's certainly possible to come up with a cordless track saw solution. Festool, for example, offers it as any option for both the finishing saw as well as their job-site oriented saw. You should also be able to adapt an off-the-shelf cordless circular saw to track use with systems that support "bring your own saw", such as the EZSmart system you mention, etc. Accuracy isn't likely going to be affected by how the saw is powered, however...it's a factor of how well the saw is mated to the track, etc. The one concern with battery powered saws is going to be if they have the duty cycle you need for the work you intend to do. Cordless has come a LONG way recently and there are more options available that can "do real work" as a result.

[Neil Gaskin]

I played with the festool at a trade show last week. It seemed pretty good. I do not own it and my experience is limited to a few cuts.

[Paul Girouard]

Makita has one , saw it at Home Depot , it appears to be the same saw as the corded model. It uses two 36 V batteries. Saw only $350.00 on line from Tool Nut , the one at Home Depot had batteries , a charger , and a case for $500.00.

[Victor Robinson]

I have the Festool TSC55. Before that I had the corded TS55. Since the TSC uses two 18V battery packs, it is actually quite powerful. The bag catches a good amount of the dust when you want to go completely cordless - not enough to work indoors in a furnished/inhabited home of course, but pretty good. If your main use is sheet goods outside, it's a dream. It does not feel underpowered.

But in general, yeah a cordless tracksaw is a good idea, quite liberating. I don't know much about the Ryobi option. I also have the 18V Milwaukee, and it would probably work pretty well coupled with a good homemade track or EZ rail.

[Rick Alexander]

Our woodworking club visited the local Makita factory earlier this year so and I had the chance to put hands on their cordless version. Very impressive for accuracy and smooth operation and good feel in the hand. I'm just worried about the torque (I cut 2-3 sheets at a time when I'm doing a kitchen job for instance - cuts the time down a lot). I also do a lot of straight lining of rough sawn solid oak using my tracks which takes a pretty strong saw. I think its got a niche but still if I'm dishing out for a track saw I'm leaning corded. I currently use a Makita 5008 and True Tracks (similar to EZ track) now but I'm looking at a better dust collection setup like a track saw offers for site work - probably Festool.

[Bernie Kopfer]

I have the corded Makita track saw and with a vacuum the dust collection is nearly 100%. Love it!

[Jim Dwight]

I have a DeWalt track saw and a bunch of Ryobi cordless tools including their circular saw. The depth of cut on the Ryobi is barely 1.5 inches. So if you put it onto a EZ track base, it would be further reduced (my DeWalt is 2 1/8 on it's track). I like my little Ryobi for rough work but I do not see it as doing the same work as my track saw. I don't think you would ever get nearly the same quality of cut. It just isn't a precision sort of tool - just like the Ryobi cordless jig saw is not real similar to my Bosch jig saw. I am not saying all Ryobi tools are in a lower class, I think my BT3100 table saw is great and the R 500 router motor in my router table is too. But the cordless Ryobi tools are constructing houses type tools, not making fine furniture type tools.

[Tim M Tuttle]

Dewalt just released this in the past couple of months: http://www.dewalt.com/products/power-tools/saws/track-saws/flexvolt-60v-max-612-in-cordless-tracksaw-kit/dcs520t1

[Jim Dwight]

DeWalt used to have a cordless track saw but they abandoned it. I hope they do not do that again. (I am not a DeWalt hater, my track saw is DeWalt but when a manufacturer introduces it and then abandones it, especially a cordless tool that will need batteries occasionally, it could create a real issue for an owner)

[mike waters]

My festool tracksaw rocks... First time I have ever used one and this is the first time I have ever built a cabinet.. Could not be happier with the simplicity (and most of all safety) of it. Further, the track is compatible with various Festool tools.
I use a ridgid vaccuum with an auto switch I bought from woodcraft. It is great.

I could've gone the cordless route, but I actually like the protocol of having to turn the cord to enable power to the saw.

370900370901

[Edwin Santos]

Maybe I'm missing something, but IMO, any circular saw, cordless or not, can become a track saw with the simple construction of a saw guide. Google "making a sawboard" or "making a circular saw guide" and you'll get plenty of info on how we did it before the manufacturers started making and marketing "track saws". Not to say that track saws don't have their advantages - two that come to mind are the excellent dust collection, and trigger plunging action. The home made track I used for decades before track saws were around was every bit as accurate as the ones that come with the track saws.

Whether the cordless saws now have the power, depth of cut, and battery life to be sufficient for your needs is something I couldn't say. But if you decide they do, I"m sure you can easily make a track out of scrap sheet goods. I use 1/2" mdf for mine.

[Jim Becker]

Edwin, one of the more important advantages of a "true" track-saw setup is that the track, itself, is the cut-line. It's not simply a saw running down or along a board. The tracks tend to "stay put" without clamping in most cutting situations, too.

You've already noted that most have more optimized dust collection and more convenient plunge capability. Some, like Festool, have riving knives for safer cutting. For "rough" work a regular circular saw and the guide of choice is just fine, but the current generation of actual track saws (or adaptations like EZSmart that work with a traditional saw) are better suited for more precision cutting.

[Edwin Santos]

Edwin, one of the more important advantages of a "true" track-saw setup is that the track, itself, is the cut-line. It's not simply a saw running down or along a board. The tracks tend to "stay put" without clamping in most cutting situations, too.


Jim, the typical method for making a traditional saw guide is to make the bottom slightly oversize such that the first cut along the rabbetted ledge with your circular saw trims it to a precise zero clearance cut line. The cutting precision is precisely identical to a packaged, branded track saw. And for stability, there are various methods for helping it "stay put". Mine was to coat the bottom with a spray can of plasti-dip.
Again, not that I'm knocking track saws or suggesting they are hype because we both agree on some of the unique features. But there is nothing they do that a traditional sawboard guide with a decent circular saw cannot do in terms of actual and precise cutting.

[Tim M Tuttle]

DeWalt used to have a cordless track saw but they abandoned it. I hope they do not do that again. (I am not a DeWalt hater, my track saw is DeWalt but when a manufacturer introduces it and then abandones it, especially a cordless tool that will need batteries occasionally, it could create a real issue for an owner)

They didnt abandon it. They just released one a couple of months ago.

[Jim Becker]

Jim, the typical method for making a traditional saw guide is to make the bottom slightly oversize such that the first cut along the rabbetted ledge with your circular saw trims it to a precise zero clearance cut line. The cutting precision is precisely identical to a packaged, branded track saw. And for stability, there are various methods for helping it "stay put". Mine was to coat the bottom with a spray can of plasti-dip.
Again, not that I'm knocking track saws or suggesting they are hype because we both agree on some of the unique features. But there is nothing they do that a traditional sawboard guide with a decent circular saw cannot do in terms of actual and precise cutting.

I don't disagree that one can do a pretty good job with a "traditional" saw guide, but the stability refinements and optimized saws that come with today's track saws are pretty appealing to many of us. I rarely used my standard circular saw (an orange B&D from the late 1970s :) ) but have used my track saw more than I expected and for things I wouldn't have thought of a few years ago, too. In fact, I'm using it for the wall covering for my current stairwell enclosure project upstairs in my shop building...because of the mobility/flexibility and the dust collection. It's come in handy to "fix" things on already assembled cabinetry and quite a few projects in our home where I wouldn't dream of firing up the ol' B&D, both with short and long tracks and with the multi-function table. It's nice to have choices!

[Bill Graham]

Our woodworking club visited the local Makita factory earlier this year so and I had the chance to put hands on their cordless version. Very impressive for accuracy and smooth operation and good feel in the hand. I'm just worried about the torque (I cut 2-3 sheets at a time when I'm doing a kitchen job for instance - cuts the time down a lot). I also do a lot of straight lining of rough sawn solid oak using my tracks which takes a pretty strong saw. I think its got a niche but still if I'm dishing out for a track saw I'm leaning corded. I currently use a Makita 5008 and True Tracks (similar to EZ track) now but I'm looking at a better dust collection setup like a track saw offers for site work - probably Festool.

Rick,
If you're going to be gang-cutting ply and ripping you'll want the TS 75, the TS 55 just doesn't have the torque. I've tried cutting 2 sheets of 3/4 with my TS 55 and it's a slow process. And it won't cut deep enough for 3 sheets.