Searching for info on asian method of lightening the appearance of a nightstands top.

[Paul Bent]

Does anyone have any info on the method of planing the underside of a cabinet top to impart a sense of both lightness and straightness. I've found a few Japanese youtubes where it is incorporated but not much written material. In one video the gentleman said that he used a special plane for this work and I am curious. I'm interested if there is a basic formula used to achieve this or if it is a "feel" for creating this edge. Also does edge grain/wood type play a large part?

I've made items incorporating various bevels and such but I'm looking for something much more understated. Thank you-

[Pat Barry]

Often the underside of a table top will have a simple bevel or chamfer at the edge to give the illusion of diminished thickness in the top. Is this what you mean?

[Rick Malakoff]

This seems like an interesting subject, pictures and links to the YouTube would be helpful. I remember that Kernov doing some great edge treatments.

Rick

[Mark Gibney]

Some pictures or drawings of what you're aiming for would be useful to me. I might not have any suggestions for you but I'd like to know more about it.

[Matt Lau]

Pictures would be nice.

I imagine Brian or Stan will have something worthwhile to share.

[Paul Bent]

Sorry for lack of photos. This has been slightly mentioned in Toshio Odates books and I believe in a translated sashimono video on youtube. That's all I have, hence the questions.

[steven c newman]

Perhaps watch a few videos by Ishitani Furniture?

[Matt Lau]

It'll be really interesting if you're talking about a Japanese bevel plane.
From my understanding, it's a trademark to have a thin bevel on the sharp corners of Japanese work?
Personally, it's my first "unitasker" that I bought--and I have no regrets.

[Brian Holcombe]

I'm happy to comment, but there is not much to work with here. Classical work or contemporary work?

Classic Chinese furniture shows a molded edge typically.

Edo Sashimono are similar, usually simple molded edge profiles if they're not square at the edge.

http://www.christies.com/lotfinder/Lot/a-japanese-black-and-gilt-lacquer-kazaridana-6019761-details.aspx

[Matthew Cashman]

I have some recollection of something similar; I believe it was making the top thinner in the middle. Along the lines of the thought that there are distortions in classical Greek architecture that make things look straighter, square-er, etc. I can't vouch for this actually being the case, though. I have an inkling it's mentioned in the Japanology episode on sashimono, which you can find on Youtube.

[Brian Holcombe]

Matthew, Thanks for bringing that up. Rereading the OP I think that may have been the direction he was going with this, I do recall the same mention.

I think that is typical of much handmade work, truly. I make most of my large flat surfaces slightly hollow in the center to avoid having them appear bowed. For long unsupported pieces they do always risk bowing, so making them slightly hollow does combat that to some extent.

[Paul Bent]

Bingo gentlemen. Thats what I'm asking about. Now any idea what is "special" about the plane used?

[Matthew Cashman]

No ideas here, unfortunately. Perhaps you could find video of the operation?

[Matt Lau]

I'm one of the least experienced guys here, but here's my thoughts:
1. It's very hard if not impossible to screw up (which is important to me).
Only a set amount of blade is exposed, and it indexes off both sides.

2. Mine is skewed for less resistance.
I'm not sure how big a deal that is for such a small surface area.

3. Much quieter, faster, cleaner than a router.

4. Sharpening is quick and easy, and forgiving.


This was so nice, that I feel all Norms can benefit, not just neanderdudes.