what is the proper connector to use to wire motor lead?

[David Wong]

I had to disconnect the motor leads from the incoming AC power on my dust collector (Oneida 2.5hp SG). The pigtails were crimp connected together using pre insulated closed ended crimp connectors (link to data sheet (https://www.idealind.com/content/pdfs/specsheets/wire-nut_48_49_49ht.pdf)). Since they were crimped, I had to cut them off. Whomever wired this originally, used a too small connector. The Ideal model 49 connectors used are not sized for 3 - 14AWG wires (which is what I need).

My question is what is everyone else using to wire motor leads? I have to special order the correct size connectors with a minimum quantity of 1000. Something I is really unacceptable. Should I use crimp on ring lug connectors and tape them? Wire nuts are not particularly vibration resistant, but they are inexpensive.

Thanks...

[Bill Space]

You can use wire nuts. Wrap them with electrical tape after you tighten them and they will not be affected by vibrations.

[James Baker SD]

I've never had a wire nut vibrate loose.

[Mike Henderson]

You can use wire nuts. Wrap them with electrical tape after you tighten them and they will not be affected by vibrations.

That's sure what I'd do. I might not even put the tape on them.

Mike

[roger wiegand]

Either wire nuts or new crimp connectors. Crimp connectors are smaller (easier to fit into small motor boxes) and are not subject to loosening with vibration. I'd use them over wire nuts, though tI've never had a problem with a wire nut in a motor.

You mostly don't have to cut off old crimp connectors, just squeeze them 90 degrees to how they were crimped; they will generally open up enough to allow you to pull the wires back out again.

[David Wong]

Unless I can find a reasonable source for the insulated crimp connectors, I guess I will just go with wire nuts. Looking on the web, taping electrical connections is a whole new art form.

Thanks everyone for the advice...

[Malcolm McLeod]

Unless I can find a reasonable source for the insulated crimp connectors, I guess I will just go with wire nuts. Looking on the web, taping electrical connections is a whole new art form.

Thanks everyone for the advice...

Overkill for home shop equipment, but if you're worried about vibration, look at "split bolt connectors" (giggle search for the phase). Individually they will be much more expensive (copper) than crimp-on or wire nuts, but they usually are available individually - not necessary to buy in bulk.. You can use some thread lock on them, then wrap in electrical tape, and never worry about vibration. They are fairly common on large motor connections (>10Hp).

[roger wiegand]

Unless I can find a reasonable source for the insulated crimp connectors,
Thanks everyone for the advice...

I get them at Home depot, in the electrical section. Most any hardware store should have them.

[Chris Hachet]

Wire nuts are fine for the home workshop. I work on electric motors all of the time, I service commercial equipment that has run for decades with wire nuts installed properly.

I like wire nuts because they are quick and easy to open back up if you need to check a motor to see if the windings are open. Also, if you are going to tape wire nuts, run a few wraps of tape backwards with the sticky side out first, and then stretch the tape you pull over the top, reversing to sticky side down. You can then cut the tape loose with a knife and have a clean wire nut should you need to disassemble your connection.

[Bill Berklich]

Wire nuts are fine for the home workshop. I work on electric motors all of the time, I service commercial equipment that has run for decades with wire nuts installed properly.

I like wire nuts because they are quick and easy to open back up if you need to check a motor to see if the windings are open. Also, if you are going to tape wire nuts, run a few wraps of tape backwards with the sticky side out first, and then stretch the tape you pull over the top, reversing to sticky side down. You can then cut the tape loose with a knife and have a clean wire nut should you need to disassemble your connection.


Wire Nuts all the way. You can solder if you are worried about vibration but not needed as Chris points out.

[Joe Jensen]

Be careful with crimp connectors. They often don't crimp tight enough. I always pull on the connector after crimped to make sure it's tight. I am not a fan of them. I personally consider wire nuts a better connector for this application.

[Randy Viellenave]

I would use wire nuts too, but if you want the crimp caps, just use the larger ones (think car stereo size that you hear from a mile away). Here is a link to Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Crimp-closed-Connectors-Terminal-50Pack/dp/B00CPNDO1W/ref=pd_bxgy_60_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=B9D9SCCN4ZV422MRAME4

[David Wong]

Thanks For pointing these out Randy. They are similar to the ones I cut out, only rated for 300V, not 600V. Probably ok for my application (220V single phase).

[Charlie Plunkett]

back when I worked in a electric motor shop, one of the most common issues I would run into was someone using wire nuts for connections and not making a good connection, make sure they are tight , and
try and pull on each wire in the connection to make sure they are locked in. A bad connection will cause heat which will melt the wire nut, and also melt the wire insulation. and that's just a start of things that
can happen.