Ideas wanted for wood to use on machinist tool box

[Pat Barry]

I am planning to build a machinist tool box for my son, you know, the type with graduated drawers and a removable front with a hinged top. I hope to use some mahogany he got for me (1/2 in and 5/8 in thick, 3 to 4 inch wide pieces, 1 and 2 ft long). Tool box will be something on the order of 15 inches tall, 20 inches wide, 12 inches deep. There is not enough mahogany material to build both the box and the drawers out of the material I have. I'm thinking that I would use the mahogany for the drawer fronts and then find a complementary wood to use for the box top and sides and the removable front. I will use poplar or other secondary wood for the drawer sides, backs, and bottom, as well as the interior casework. Not having worked with mahogany before, I'm not sure what other woods work well with it though. Do you guys have any favorite combinations that llok well paired together with mahogany?

Another option might be to use mahogany for the entire exterior but resaw it to a bit under 1/4" thick and laminate it to a structural base for the box sides and top. What material would be a good substrate for this? I suppose some BB plywood would work as a substrate but not sure if I would need to laminate to both sides of it to make it stable (less prone to warping). Thoughts?

[Matthew Hutchinson477]

Most of the wood machinist's chests I have seen in the workplace have been made of oak, if that means anything to you. But eschewing that tradition, or whatever you want to call it, I think that mahogany contrasts nicely with lighter colored woods. It tends to darken with age so if you choose something dark in color you might lose some of the contrast between the woods over time. I would think something like maple or lighter colored cherry would be nice.

As for resawing and laminating, I don't have the experience to offer an opinion.

[Rick Malakoff]

Hi Pat,
At my local hardwoods dealer the Mahogany and Sapele are stacked next to each other Sapele is a bit darker but the same grain type . If you wand contrast Red Grandis has the same type of grain but pinkish in color and I understand that it takes stain well.
Of course I prefer to use contrasting woods, just some thoughts.
Rick

[William Adams]

Ebony --- look to Studley: https://lostartpress.com/products/virtuoso

[Rob Luter]

Gerstner uses QSWO and has for many years It's the reference standard for machinists boxes.

http://gerstnerusa.com/image/cache/catalog/USA_Products/GO2610_oR1-1000x800.jpg

[Pat Barry]

Hi Pat,
At my local hardwoods dealer the Mahogany and Sapele are stacked next to each other Sapele is a bit darker but the same grain type . If you wand contrast Red Grandis has the same type of grain but pinkish in color and I understand that it takes stain well.
Of course I prefer to use contrasting woods, just some thoughts.
Rick
I said complementary but contrasting would be nice also. Like Matt said, one of the ideas I had in mind was maple, but that might be too light. I need to look for examples of traditional mahogany cabinets with other species, either contrasting or complementary.

[Pat Barry]

Found a Gerstner tool box in mahogany. Here is link:

http://gerstnerusa.com/restoration-and-repair

[Rick Malakoff]

Pat,

I think that the Mahogany box looks outstanding!
Rick

[Mel Fulks]

Mahogany is a symbol of luxury that will not tolerate equality. I would make the whole box case of mahogany. Drawer fronts of satinwood would be acceptable if there is not enough mahogany.

[Frederick Skelly]

Mahogany is a symbol of luxury that will not tolerate equality. I would make the whole box case of mahogany.

I work with it regularly. I love it. If you are going to buy more wood, I'd buy more mahogany. It will sure be beautiful. With that said, I suspect QSWO would be more durable - mahogany tends to dent and ding more easily than oak.

Regardless, Id love to see a build thread if you're so inclined.

Good luck Pat.
Fred

[Mel Fulks]

Frederick, the quality of mahogany 4/4 is lower now than what was available in '60s. The thicker stuff is still pretty good.
The real picky guys sometimes avoid the 4/4 and resaw thicker stuff. I've got small beautiful scraps I've had since mid '60s. It can be dented but actually resists wear pretty well. Early mahogany furniture was often finished with oil ,and tool chests made of oiled mahogany are just so pleasant to use.

[Stu Gillard]

I've heard that Oak tannins and iron don't mix.

I'm sure it's not an issue if it was lined like that machinists box in the post above.

I wish I was in a position to give you some Australian Red Cedar.
Now that would make a nice tool box.

[john zulu]

Anyone has build diagrams of the machinist tool box?

[Phil Mueller]

Pat, I have FWW issue on building furniture. There is a section on wood pairings. They suggest that Cherry, Curly Maple and Satinwood pair well with Mahogany.

Mahogany, Cherry; Rich red coloring and subtle grain help these woods complement each other. Leaving the mahogany pores unfilled creates additional contrast in surface texture. An ebony or rosewood bead would enhand the paring.

Mahogany, Curly Maple; The golden hue of the maple lights up against the reds and browns of the mahogany. The rippling curly maple figure adds further interest.

Satinwood also contrasts well with mahogany- it’s a traditional, high-style pairing.

It also suggests that it’s often nicer to have darker woods frame lighter ones.

[Nicholas Lawrence]

Mahogany is a symbol of luxury that will not tolerate equality. I would make the whole box case of mahogany. Drawer fronts of satinwood would be acceptable if there is not enough mahogany.

I was going to say I really like the look of quarter sawn white oak, but I basically agree. That chest will be a major investment of time and effort, and if I liked mahagony better, I would seriously consider getting more so the whole chest could be made of the same material.

[Frederick Skelly]

Frederick, the quality of mahogany 4/4 is lower now than what was available in '60s. The thicker stuff is still pretty good.
The real picky guys sometimes avoid the 4/4 and resaw thicker stuff. I've got small beautiful scraps I've had since mid '60s. It can be dented but actually resists wear pretty well. Early mahogany furniture was often finished with oil ,and tool chests made of oiled mahogany are just so pleasant to use.

Thanks Mel. I didn't know that. It really is a lovely wood!
Best,
Fred

[Brian Holcombe]

What's mahogany? Are we talking about Honduran, Cuban, African or Sapele? The later two I give away and instead use QS white oak, the former I put aside for furniture and instead use QS white oak.

[Pat Barry]

Pat, I have FWW issue on building furniture. There is a section on wood pairings. They suggest that Cherry, Curly Maple and Satinwood pair well with Mahogany.

Mahogany, Cherry; Rich red coloring and subtle grain help these woods complement each other. Leaving the mahogany pores unfilled creates additional contrast in surface texture. An ebony or rosewood bead would enhand the paring.

Mahogany, Curly Maple; The golden hue of the maple lights up against the reds and browns of the mahogany. The rippling curly maple figure adds further interest.

Satinwood also contrasts well with mahogany- it’s a traditional, high-style pairing.

It also suggests that it’s often nicer to have darker woods frame lighter ones.

Hi Phil,

Thank you for the information. I tend to agree with the framing comment. I do think it would look better to have drawer fronts made of maple inside a mahogany case than the other way around. Unfortunately, I don't have enough to make the case with mahogany.

That said, I think as long as I do need to get more lumber to make this project I might as well buy the mahogany and be consistent. I will do some shopping locally and see what they have on hand. Does anyone have a recommendation for an internet source for mahogany?

I do not have a detailed design to work from at this time, although I like the look of the Gerstner case I linked to above and hope to build something similar to that one, although I would reduce the number of shallow drawers and go a bit deeper with less of them. I kind of like the center drawer in that and other cabinets like it also.

[Pat Barry]

What's mahogany? Are we talking about Honduran, Cuban, African or Sapele? The later two I give away and instead use QS white oak, the former I put aside for furniture and instead use QS white oak.
Good question - how do I tell by looking at some boards? Note - most of the boards are relatively light in color right now as compared to what I associate with mahogany.

[Brian Holcombe]

I know Honduran from how it works, outside of that, I think that a scientific approach is needed:

http://www.wood-database.com/cuban-mahogany/

[Frederick Skelly]

Good question - how do I tell by looking at some boards? Note - most of the boards are relatively light in color right now as compared to what I associate with mahogany.

What's sold as African mahogany is often dark red. Some don't consider it "real" mahogany, but whatever it is I like it. Honduran tends to be lighter and is considered to be "real" mahogany (IIRC). IMO, both are nice woods. It sounds like what you have may be Honduran or Cuban. I'd take it with me if you buy locally, just to be sure you've got a grain match. (Color match can be harder if you've had yours for a while - the stuff I've had darkens over time.)

Fred

[John K Jordan]

The one I have looks like quartersawn white oak.

JKJ

[Mike Brady]

Most Gerstner chests are QSWO; probably because it is stable and durable. I built a larger tool cabinet out of it and it has be extremely durable. Don't plan on toting it around very much because the oak combined with tools ends up being very heavy. When I move mine, I have to remove the five drawers.

The issue of metal interacting with the oak is inconsequential. The wood or the tool would have to be wet for staining to occur. You should line the drawers anyway. I used green pool table felt.

You won't regret building one. I put all of my layout tools in it, some small saws, a row of chisels; anything smaller that you want to have a secure place for.

[Pat Barry]

Most Gerstner chests are QSWO; probably because it is stable and durable. I built a larger tool cabinet out of it and it has be extremely durable. Don't plan on toting it around very much because the oak combined with tools ends up being very heavy. When I move mine, I have to remove the five drawers.

The issue of metal interacting with the oak is inconsequential. The wood or the tool would have to be wet for staining to occur. You should line the drawers anyway. I used green pool table felt.

You won't regret building one. I put all of my layout tools in it, some small saws, a row of chisels; anything smaller that you want to have a secure place for.
Thanks for the idea of the pool table felt. Do you just use a spray fixative (3M type) to secure the felt into the drawer bottoms? Any padding under the felt?

[Pat Barry]

Gerstner uses QSWO and has for many years It's the reference standard for machinists boxes.

http://gerstnerusa.com/image/cache/catalog/USA_Products/GO2610_oR1-1000x800.jpg
I see that the side panels of the Gerstner tool box are joined, cross-grain, to a rail at the top. This joinery leaves apparent potential for issues due to the cross grain glue joints for these panels. Do you think they don't care about this because the width of the panel is only 10 1/2 inches?

Does anyone have a Gerstner tool box? I am also curious about how they do the lid - whether this is all glued together or whether it is a floating panel? Thanks

[Nicholas Lawrence]

My guess is the Gerstner folks knew what they were doing. I think we sometimes get overly concerned with the expansion issues with smaller stuff. I have a 12” oak panel that is edged with black walnut (a top for a small side table). On the ends it is a cross-grain glue joint. Nothing is floating. I wondered if I would have a problem, but I liked the look enough to just try it. It has been at least five years, and it is fine.


I see that the side panels of the Gerstner tool box are joined, cross-grain, to a rail at the top. This joinery leaves apparent potential for issues due to the cross grain glue joints for these panels. Do you think they don't care about this because the width of the panel is only 10 1/2 inches?

Does anyone have a Gerstner tool box? I am also curious about how they do the lid - whether this is all glued together or whether it is a floating panel? Thanks

[Mike Brady]

Take a look at this SMC thread: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?170678-Machinist-chest-plans-guides

[Phil Mueller]

Is that a mirror on the inside lid? Do folks want to look at themselves holding a tool?

[Jim Koepke]

Is that a mirror on the inside lid? Do folks want to look at themselves holding a tool?

These tool boxes originated years before safety glasses were common. Metal workers often needed a mirror to help get debris from machining operations out of their eye.

jtk

[Mel Fulks]

The tool box mirror was also used to comb hair and straighten tie since many guys changed clothes after getting to work early for that purpose. They also changed clothes to go home, even the guys who drove their own cars .Not just the bus riders.

[Phil Mueller]

Thanks for the insight, gents!

[Patrick Chase]

I see that the side panels of the Gerstner tool box are joined, cross-grain, to a rail at the top. This joinery leaves apparent potential for issues due to the cross grain glue joints for these panels. Do you think they don't care about this because the width of the panel is only 10 1/2 inches?

If you look closely it's a T&G joint with ample long-to-long grain glued area, that should be easily capable of handling the resulting stresses. Think of it as a brute-force solution to differential expansion.

[Pat Barry]

If you look closely it's a T&G joint with ample long-to-long grain glued area, that should be easily capable of handling the resulting stresses. Think of it as a brute-force solution to differential expansion.
Yeah, I was thinking similar. The panel is about 11 inches wide. Most all of the non Gerstner tool boxes do not have this design element so they have end grain at the top of each panel.

[andy bessette]

Using more than one species of wood, particularly contrasting shades, on this small project would fairly scream "amateur/DIY-built". Drawer sides are an exception.

[Pat Barry]

Using more than one species of wood, particularly contrasting shades, on this small project would fairly scream "amateur/DIY-built". Drawer sides are an exception.
I do plan to build with just mahogany. I think the actual construction, finish, detail, etc is much more important than the choice of whether or not multiple species were used. I am an amateur though, so I'm sure the result will be well apparent. Lol.
By the way, everything here is DIY, isn't it?

[andy bessette]

... I am an amateur...everything here is DIY, isn't it?

You don't want your work to scream it like a patchwork quilt. :) Better to make the exposed surfaces one species, matching the grain, when possible, and plugged screw holes from the same board.

[James Pallas]

You don't want your work to scream it like a patchwork quilt. :) Better to make the exposed surfaces one species, matching the grain, when possible, and plugged screw holes from the same board.
It's a wood tool chest. The only place for screws is the hinges and locks. I don't plug those.
Jim

[Pat Barry]

You don't want your work to scream it like a patchwork quilt. :) Better to make the exposed surfaces one species, matching the grain, when possible, and plugged screw holes from the same board.
Thanks a lot.

[Mike Brady]

Did you know that Gerstner sells their hardware separately?: http://gerstnerusa.com/replacement-hardware

[Pat Barry]

Did you know that Gerstner sells their hardware separately?: http://gerstnerusa.com/replacement-hardware
No, I didn't. Thanks very much for the link. The prices seem pretty fair compared to other places and they offer everything.

[Pat Barry]

Here are some of the pieces I'm sorting through to find the best grain and color match for the drawer fronts. Lots of variety in both grain and color plus some of the pieces have very nice chatoyance.
370687

[Rick Malakoff]

That is the part of the project that makes me nuts....I just keep second guessing my self!
Rick

[Pat Barry]

The darkest piece is a bit deceiving (I think / hope). I will plane it down a bit and think it will be more of the same color and tone as the other pieces.