Suggestions for replacement bandsaw motor, or should I just buy new saw?

[Mike Allen1010]

Any suggestions for where I could find a replacement motor for my cheesy, 30-year-old Taiwanese 14 inch bandsaw? Or would it make more sense to just buy a new, better bandsaw?


I started woodworking with power tools but for the last 20 years I've been a 90% hand tool guy; no tablesaw etc. That said, I rely on my bandsaw for re-sawing (even though maximum re-saw depth is around 5") and any large-scale ripping. I am way too old and fat to do those sawing jobs by hand.


I freely confess I know literally nothing about stationary power tools. More specifically, my bandsaw in particular is a total mystery to me. It's by far the most finicky tool in my shop – I spend more time adjusting ball bearing guides, fence alignment etc. than actually sawing. All too often when I attempt to re-saw my carefully dimensioned and precious figured stock for book matched panels etc., ends up being a total waste as the blade dramatically tracks off-line, despite the fact I just realigned my shop built rip fence based on the line the blade tracks when free hand ripping.


For some context on my power tool ineptitude; I wouldn't even consider changing out the 3/4" wide re-saw blade for the narrow curve cutting blade because goodness knows that's pretty much a1/2 day project for me that has a 80% probability of producing a literally nonfunctional tool.


Sorry for my rambling Frustration.back to the problem at hand: after pretty lengthy reselling session, my motor stopped working. When I click the on switch I would hear a hum, but the motor doesn't turn. To be honest I'm not sure if my problem is the on/off switch, the motor or perhaps something else (do bandsaw's have a solenoid?).


If getting a replacement motor is an option my fellow Creekers think I should pursue, I would like to get the most powerful one I can that still runs on 110 current/volts or whatever the hell that is (in other words I don't want to have to rewire the power to get to 220) . I very much appreciate any advice and suggestions about what brand/model motor I should get in where I should look for it.


Alternatively, I would also appreciate opinions/suggestions about whether it makes more sense to just get a new, better bandsaw. If yes, again advice/suggestions about what to get are much appreciated!


I fully recognize that if the power tool world is anything like Neanderthal Haven, my question about "best bandsaw I should look for" is both incredibly naïve and completely subjective based on individual experience. My apologies if my question creates any angina. I'm happy to do the research – read magazines/tool guides etc., but I was hoping for some informed advice that would point me the right direction to save me some time.


Thanks in advance for your time and consideration. I very much appreciate any and all feedback and suggestions.


All the best, Mike

[Lee Schierer]

A humming motor is usually caused by a bad capacitor or stuck centrifugal switch. Use a compressor to blow the saw dust out of the motor and try starting it again. If it still hums you need to replace the capacitor. On the top or side of your motor there is a hump. Remove the screws holding that cover in place and you will see the capacitor. With the power disconnected, take an insulated piece of wire form it into a u shape, strip the ends to expose the copper and then touch one leg of the U to each side of the capacitor terminals for a few seconds to short it out. Once you have done that you can safely remove the capacitor and take it to any motor or electrical distributor and they can replace it for about $12. That should get your saw running again.

[Chris Hachet]

I find having multiple bandsaws helpful. Also, after upgrading to two better bandsaws I gave my Taiwanese Delta clone 14 inch bandsaw away.

Better bandsaw...your best bet may be a vintage bandsaw if you are comfortable with that. OWWM is your friend.

Laguna makes a nice 14 inch bandsaw as does Grizzly.

But if you just want to get your old saw running a capacitor should do the trick.

[Chris Hachet]

Also, find another woodworker to help you set up your band saw. Changing blades should be a five minute deal, not half the day. Once you get the hang of it, simple.

I bought a used Powermatic 87 and it will cut veneer all day with no complaint. Size and mass are your friends when it comes to band saws.

What is your budget?

If you are comfortable with the idea of vintage stuff, 500 to 800 could get you a Powermatic 141, Walker Turner 14, or a Davis and Wells 14 inch. Davis and Wells was a California company so you should be able to find one. Any of those three will cut circles around the Taiwanese Delta clones. Plus all three have a really awesome vintage feel.

However, if you are uncomfortable with power tools you may be really uncomfortable with this option for one reason. Zero new replacement parts are available for any of these and you will look at a dozen saws before you find just the right one. Parts if needed can be sourced on the used market. I am no genius but I keep vintage saws running in my shop and they see regular use.

If you can swing it and are patient a modern band saw in the 18 to 20 inch size probably can be had something in the neighborhood of a grand in the used market. Plus, you may be able to take the saw for a test run and get a good feel for how it operates.

Good luck and feedback from the OP should help us help him.

[Doug Garson]

Agree with Lee, my 1 hp dust collector motor did the same thing, hummed and wouldn't start. Replaced the capacitor for under $20 CND and it runs like new. I also have a 1990 Taiwanese 14" bandsaw, don't think I would try to tension a 3/4" blade on it. I'm not a band saw expert but others on the forum are and can help you with your other problem. Maybe a better bandsaw may be the answer to your first problem but if you get your existing saw up and running for under $20 your resale value will be much better.

[Chris Hachet]

One more post here and I am going to bed...I promise!

Sounds like you have dulled one side of your blade if it is tracking off line. That it taken some if the set out of one side of the teeth on the blade. Properly set up with a reasonably sharp and in damaged blade your existing saw should be able to cut straight.

Your wheels also need to be in alignment and often are not.

There are also a ton of threads here on band saws and tons of you tube videos. It is a learning curve but nowhere near impossible. Much harder to hand cut dovetails than set up a band saw. If I can learn it anyone can.

[Chris Hachet]

Agree with Lee, my 1 hp dust collector motor did the same thing, hummed and wouldn't start. Replaced the capacitor for under $20 CND and it runs like new. I also have a 1990 Taiwanese 14" bandsaw, don't think I would try to tension a 3/4" blade on it. I'm not a band saw expert but others on the forum are and can help you with your other problem. Maybe a better bandsaw may be the answer to your first problem but if you get your existing saw up and running for under $20 your resale value will be much better.

Okay, breaking my promise and then going to bed. When that style bandsaw first came out in the 1930s Delta designed it to run a quarter inch or three eighth inch blade. It is really better at cutting curves than re sawing, but it will re saw.

[Bill Dindner]

If you decide to get a new Saw, I’d recommend the Laguna 1412. I have one, good power when I run it on 110v, pretty simple to assemble and tune up, Laguna put out a step by step video series on how to assemble and tune up the 1412.

[Rick Potter]

My Delta 14" resaws just fine. Sounds like you need a better saw. Craiglist is loaded with them. Get a Delta or Powermatic, and make sure all the guides etc are there. Also look for one with a fence and a miter gage.

[John K Jordan]

... my motor stopped working. When I click the on switch I would hear a hum, but the motor doesn't turn. To be honest I'm not sure if my problem is the on/off switch, the motor or perhaps something else (do bandsaw's have a solenoid?).


Mike,

My 18" RIkon bandsaw did the same thing as well as one of my mini lathes. In both cases it was a bad start capacitor. (When a motor capacitor goes you can sometimes smell an unusual but distinctive burning smell - but not always.)

You can easily test to see if the problem is a bad start capacitor by rotating the motor by hand under power.

- Raise the upper guides to expose some of the blade. I raised mine maybe 8 or 10".
- Hold a stick of scrap wood in one hand, maybe a 2x2 square 12" long or so.
- With the lathe off, practice pushing the blade down with the stick so you will know what to expect.
- Turn on the bandsaw power switch.
- Press the stick into the blade teeth near the top and push the blade downward to rotate the wheels and the motor. (Keep fingers clear!!!)

If the capacitor is bad the lathe should immediately start running and work as before. This will hurt nothing as long as you don't leave the motor humming for longer than a few seconds. If the motor does not start this way the problem is probably something other than the capacitor such as a bad motor winding or a sudden problem with the electrical power. (You can test that too.)

I started my Rikon by hand this way and used it for days until I got a new capacitor from Rikon.

Alternatively, you can take the blade off and use a stick or something to give the lower wheel a spin. (Don't try this with the blade on the saw - it's dangerous.) When the mini lathe capacitor gave up the ghost it was in the middle of a turning class for kids. I simply started the lathe with the handwheel every time to finish the class. An interesting thing: the lathe would run either forward or backwards depending on which way it was started. (Who said the Jet mini lathe didn't have a reverse! :))

If a capacitor is bad you can probably get a replacement capacitor locally from a motor or industrial electrical shop. Remove the capacitor and take it with you. It should have numbers on the side they will need. It usually lives in a bulging wart on the side of the motor or in a box fastened to or close to the motor. Turn off the power and remove the screws and disconnect the capacitor wires inside. Make sure the new capacitor is not physically larger than the old or it won't fit into the housing. (If the electrical specs are the same it will still work but you would have to make a new cover somehow.)

All that said, a new bandsaw is nice!

BTW, one of my bandsaws is a 14" made-in-USA Delta. I found out the hard way that a 3/4" blade is way too big for that saw. The blade probably can't even be tensioned properly and the result is a horrible cut, almost impossible to use reliably. If tensioned even close to what that blade needs to cut correctly, it can over stress the saw. In my case, as with others, a tensioning bracket inside the saw bent and had to be replaced. Some people have broken the bracket. I and others found out that a 1/2" 3tpi blade is perfect for that saw for most resawing and cutting woodturning blanks. In fact, that is nearly all I use on my 18" Rikon now and I cut a lot of wood. There have been several threads about larger blades and tensioning on SMC and other forums. Note that the tensioning marks on most bandsaws are notoriously inaccurate. I eventually bought a bandsaw blade tension gauge so I would KNOW what the tension was. Bandsawing is now a joy instead of a frustration.

JKJ

[Nick Decker]

Mike,

I'll let others advise you on the motor as I'm an electrical dummy. You mentioned that your saw is 30 years old, and that you avoid changing the blade. If your blade is old it's most likely dull, which will cause it to wander a lot during resawing, regardless of how much you adjust the fence for drift.

If you get the motor running, definitely try a new blade. My 14" saw (Rikon) resaws very nicely with a 1/2" blade, 3 or 4 tpi. The manual says it'll handle a 3/4" blade and I did try that. Yes, it'll fit on the saw and no, it's not a good blade for a 14" saw.

[Chris Hachet]

The 14 inch Rikon is a completely different beast than the 14 inch Delta clone of the OP Mike. I have had very good luck with a Rikon-1/2 inch combination in terms of re sawing.

The steel frame band saws like your Rikon are a torsion frame design that works much better for re sawing in my experience.

My 14 inch vintage Walker Turner will resaw nicely with a 1/2 inch blade also. For smaller work not sure you need more than a half inch blade for re sawing.

[Nick Decker]

Yes, I realize the 14" Rikon is different from the OP's 14" saw, but my point was that a 3/4" blade is too wide to tension on any 14" saw that I've heard of.

[Larry Foster]

I'm really glad he asked this question (and for the answers)
I had picked up an old Homecraft a number of years ago and never ran it.
Tried a month ago and the motor hummed.

Until then I was going to rehab it but figured getting the motor repaired would make the rehab cost competitive and was ready to scrap it.

I'll see if the motor is a simple fix.
It needs a new rubber on the wheel and a blade.
At least.

I found an Instructable on rehabbing a similar band saw here:
https://www.instructables.com/id/Maintaining-a-20-Year-Old-Bandsaw/

And a link for electric motors
https://www.instructables.com/id/Make-an-Electric-Motor-Run-Again/?utm_source=newsletter&utm_medium=email

[Mike Allen1010]

Thanks everyone for all your help – you guys are awesome! Before I submitted this post I was ready to pre-much give up on this saw, but based in your feedback I'm encouraged to keep at it.


Based on the feedback here my plan is try replacing the capacitor and set this saw up with a narrower blade for cutting curves and also look for a larger saw with greater resawing capacity. Max re-saw depth for this saw is about 5" and it goes really slow, even in soft woods. Correction: I misspoke and my OP, I actually have 1/2", 3 TPI blade. I looked for an extension block that would fit but couldn't figure it out. In any event I would like more power.


I'm posting again to provide some additional information and ask a couple follow-up questions. I apologize in advance because I know my questions are naïve and, likely overly broad. Any suggestions are much appreciated!


There appear to be 2 external fittings on the motor: one about 4" long X 11/2" wide x 2" tall. This piece has a rounded/curved top. The 2nd fitting is smaller, rectangular and sort of "wedge" shaped in height.


Little information plate on the outside of my motor says:
induction motor
rpm 1720
4 pole
wired: 110, one phase, 60 Hz
made in Taiwan, 1980


1) Where can I find/what should I Google to find a supplier who could sell me a new capacitor? While I'm at it, my on-off switch is broken – it still works, but the Bakelite off button pops out and falls on the ground. I appreciate any advice about where I could also find a new switch (doesn't have to match the original).


2) Is it viable to put a more powerful motor on this saw that would still run on 110 volts? If so, what am I looking for and where could I buy one?


3) Thanks a lot Chris for all your help and suggestions; I'm a big fan of vintage tools and a believer in the virtues of mass and cast-iron. Any suggestions about what type/model of a larger, vintage band saw that could get me closer to 8-10" of re-saw capacity? Are these saws really availab locally in Southern California le via something like Craigslist etc.? I would think out of state shipping costs would be prohibitive – right?


I want to set this saw up for resawing, ripping and then leave it alone.


I really appreciate everybody's time and consideration. Thanks very much for your help!


Best, Mike

[Randy Heinemann]

Mike,

I'll let others advise you on the motor as I'm an electrical dummy. You mentioned that your saw is 30 years old, and that you avoid changing the blade. If your blade is old it's most likely dull, which will cause it to wander a lot during resawing, regardless of how much you adjust the fence for drift.

If you get the motor running, definitely try a new blade. My 14" saw (Rikon) resaws very nicely with a 1/2" blade, 3 or 4 tpi. The manual says it'll handle a 3/4" blade and I did try that. Yes, it'll fit on the saw and no, it's not a good blade for a 14" saw.


Thanks everyone for all your help – you guys are awesome! Before I submitted this post I was ready to pre-much give up on this saw, but based in your feedback I'm encouraged to keep at it.


Based on the feedback here my plan is try replacing the capacitor and set this saw up with a narrower blade for cutting curves and also look for a larger saw with greater resawing capacity. Max re-saw depth for this saw is about 5" and it goes really slow, even in soft woods. Correction: I misspoke and my OP, I actually have 1/2", 3 TPI blade. I looked for an extension block that would fit but couldn't figure it out. In any event I would like more power.


I'm posting again to provide some additional information and ask a couple follow-up questions. I apologize in advance because I know my questions are naïve and, likely overly broad. Any suggestions are much appreciated!


There appear to be 2 external fittings on the motor: one about 4" long X 11/2" wide x 2" tall. This piece has a rounded/curved top. The 2nd fitting is smaller, rectangular and sort of "wedge" shaped in height.


Little information plate on the outside of my motor says:
induction motor
rpm 1720
4 pole
wired: 110, one phase, 60 Hz
made in Taiwan, 1980


1) Where can I find/what should I Google to find a supplier who could sell me a new capacitor? While I'm at it, my on-off switch is broken – it still works, but the Bakelite off button pops out and falls on the ground. I appreciate any advice about where I could also find a new switch (doesn't have to match the original).


2) Is it viable to put a more powerful motor on this saw that would still run on 110 volts? If so, what am I looking for and where could I buy one?


3) Thanks a lot Chris for all your help and suggestions; I'm a big fan of vintage tools and a believer in the virtues of mass and cast-iron. Any suggestions about what type/model of a larger, vintage band saw that could get me closer to 8-10" of re-saw capacity? Are these saws really availab locally in Southern California le via something like Craigslist etc.? I would think out of state shipping costs would be prohibitive – right?


I want to set this saw up for resawing, ripping and then leave it alone.


I really appreciate everybody's time and consideration. Thanks very much for your help!


Best, Mike
I would just try replacing the capacitor and installing a 1/2" blade for a start. The capacitor should be located inside the oblong rounded cover on the outside of the motor. The hardest part of replacing may be getting at the screws on the cover depending on location. I just replaced one on my jointer. Easy. Maybe take a picture of the wiring before disconnecting just in case it makes a difference which terminals get connected to which wires. For saw setup I bought a small step by step book by Alex Snodgrass of Carter Bandsaw Products. It makes setup easy. I own a 14" Rikon Deluxe 325; now model 326 I think. It has a 1 1/2 hp motor and 11" re saw capacity more than I have ever needed. Not the best saw but very good and not that expaenxive.

[Doug Garson]

Just look up small electric motor parts and/or repair, they should be able to supply you with a capacitor and if you're not comfortable installing it they could install it for you.

[Curt Harms]

little information plate on the outside of my motor says:
induction motor
rpm 1720
4 pole
wired: 110, one phase, 60 Hz
made in Taiwan, 1980


If it were me, I'd check for open or shorted windings before spending too much money on that motor. Far Eastern motors of that era were not noted for their durability. I think the problem with them is that the insulating varnish was pretty thin. I recall Forrest Addy going on about that, they needed "another dip and bake". A new capacitor? Sure, it's only a few bucks. But beyond that, try to learn how to check windings for opens and shorts.

[Alice W Falls]

Sometimes, when you increase horsepower you worry about the drive train being able to handle the extra torque. However, the “drive train” of a bandsaw is a belt. I expect you will have no problems. The worst case scenario is that you need to buy a stronger belt.
Of course, the other issue is mounting the new motor. That may take some creative engineering.
If you are doing any resawing or big band saw boxes, you want all the power you can get and this motor will help a lot. If you are just working with flat wood, why bother?

[Bill George]

As a electrician I can suggest if the motor was working one day and not the next, the advice for blowing the sawdust out and trying again is great. Unless the motor let the smoke out the next thing is the capacitor.

With my Jet metal cutting saw the brand and quality of the blade makes a big difference on true cutting or not.

[cody michael]

Leevalley sells amazing bandsaw blades, I have tried a few others and these are the best in my book, they last a good long time also.

http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?cat=1,41036,41037&p=30276

[Bill George]

I was going to add to the other and fotgot, I have purchased bearings, capacitors and other parts from Amazon. Went to a local bearing supply house for example, they could not cross over a bearing part number and they had the old one. Went home, went to Amazon dot com, crossed it over, ordered and had in Two days. I have had good luck with either Starrett or Lenox blades.

[John Sanford]

3) Thanks a lot Chris for all your help and suggestions; I'm a big fan of vintage tools and a believer in the virtues of mass and cast-iron. Any suggestions about what type/model of a larger, vintage band saw that could get me closer to 8-10" of re-saw capacity? Are these saws really availab locally in Southern California le via something like Craigslist etc.? Yes. Right now there's over 100 "bandsaw" listings for Los Angeles. One of them is a MM16 by Minimax (https://palmsprings.craigslist.org/tls/d/16-minimax-bandsaw/6386024668.html), for a price of $1,450. There's a 36" Tannewitz, and an assortment of others.


I would think out of state shipping costs would be prohibitive – right? Costly? Probably. Prohibitive? That depends on the depths of your pockets and strength of your desire.