Shop cabinet configuration

[Larry Foster]

As I move forward to setting up my shop, I'm starting to think about details.
Due to the small size, I need to use all the space I have for organization and storage.

What I am hoping for are suggestions for an under bench cabinet and all are appreciated.

I have a metal framed bench.
Under the top, I have approx. 5' high and 22" high which I would like to fill with a cabinet.

Because I'm not terribly imaginative, I don't always think of the best solutions.

That's where I hope the community's wisdom and experience will help.

I had thought of 3 rows of drawers; 18" at each end and 24" in the middle.
Or, the 2 18" cabinets and shelves for something.

Would you make all drawers the same depth, say 6" or small at the top, bigger in the middle and deeper yet on the bottom?

I've been watching YouTube videos until my eyes are ready to fall out trying to get ideas.

Thanks, in advance, for your help.

[Carl Kona]

Larry,

I am confronting a similar situation. I was planning a grand drawer base for my bench with lots of drawers for everything...except I was putting the cart before the horse. What I mean is I was planning the drawers expecting everything to fit instead of figuring out what was going into each drawer and then making the drawer to fit. So I went and figured all the stuff that was going in that base and then made a lot of changes. The other thing is I tried to figure out the most used/important things that should be closest. So you can get ideas ( I got plenty) but everything really comes down to what you have and what you use. I like all my hand tools in small drawers right at the top and then bigger heavier tools below with some power tools mixed in and bigger power tools below that in bigger deeper drawers. So when I measured these tools I made some drawers shorter and others taller (I didn't need a 6" drawer for screw drivers)

[Travis Porter]

For me, the top drawers are for chisels and small stuff. Drawer depth around 2 to 3 inches. The middle drawers hold some small stuff. One side holds router parts, guides, collets, wrenches, etc. the other drawer holds some small clamps. Both are around 4 to 5 inches deep. The bottom right drawer holds power tools, routers, and the like. The other holds miscellaneou larger items.

I used ball ball bearing full extension slides, and I am glad I did.

best wishes on your undertaking.

[andy bessette]

...Because I'm not terribly imaginative, I don't always think of the best solutions...

You are severely handicapped without some preliminary sketches.

[Larry Foster]

instead of figuring out what was going into each drawer and then making the drawer to fit.

Carl, I thought about that when I was asking the question.
:(


You are severely handicapped without some preliminary sketches.

I usually am, Andy.

I've been peeking at Sketch Up but, in the past, I've been a "wing it" kind of guy

[glenn bradley]

I found deep drawers at the bench to be problematic and built again. As mentioned 2" deep for the top row or two for chisels, awls, pencils, calipers and other measuring and marking stuff. The rest of mine are 3-1/2" internal depth as that fits an organizational fixture (plastic interlocking boxes) that I use throughout the shop. Deeper drawers are fine else where but, most stuff I keep "at the bench" is smaller and a deeper drawer just turns into a catch-all.

In another area to consider, I left about 5" between the top of the drawer boxes and bottom of the work surface for holddown clearance. this space is also handy as a place to set items (clamps, holddowns, a shooting board, bench horse, etc.) while working.

[Bill Adamsen]

+1 for what Glenn suggests. My top drawers are designed for the height of boxes I buy on ebay for holding fasteners, and are just a few inches deep. Even so, loaded with fasteners they are heavy.

[Larry Foster]

Thanks, Bill and Glenn.
Some good suggestions.

Keep them coming

[Robert Engel]

I think 3" drawers across the top is good for keeping things like rulers, pencils, etc.

I would suggest something like 3, 5, 6, 8"

You might want to consider a door on the middle bank in case you want to store something like a router or if you have cases with tools like jigsaw, biscuiter, etc.

[andy bessette]

...I've been peeking at Sketch Up but, in the past, I've been a "wing it" kind of guy

I think computer programs hinder an individual's creative freedom. Try a simple thumbnail sketch and even paper dolls on a quad tablet layout of the available space.

The drawer arrangements/sizes commonly found on roll-away lower cabinets are very useful. I use the deep drawers for storing my full size planes standing on their soles, on foam drawer liner.

[Larry Foster]

Thanks, Andy and Robert.

I had thought about leaving the middle open for shelf storage fir things like you mentioned but I have another bench that I put a plywood shelf in for those kinds of things and I may be able to put a second shelf on that one.
Harbor Freight had cheap plastic 4 shelf units for $14 and I bought 2.
Those drawer sizes look interesting

[Don Jarvie]

Know anyone redoing their kitchen? I used my old kitchen cabinets in my shop and they work great.

[Larry Foster]

I don't, Don.
Base cabinets would be too high for this particular application and wall cabinets may be too short(?)

But, they would be good for other stuff in the shop.
Thanks for that idea

[Roger Feeley]

+1 for what Glenn suggests. My top drawers are designed for the height of boxes I buy on ebay for holding fasteners, and are just a few inches deep. Even so, loaded with fasteners they are heavy.


Bill, can you provide a link on eBay for those little bins? I’ve been using single gang electrical boxes. They work fairly well but I would like to do better.

[andy bessette]

McMaster-Carr has the good quality, compartmented, plastic boxes with non-adjustable dividers for storing fasteners.

[Bill Conerly]

I have built roll-away cabinets that go under my bench top, along the lines of http://www.startwoodworking.com/post/roll-away-workshop (but mine not as great looking). It's nice to use them as work surfaces when I'm in the middle of a project, then roll them back under the bench later. Version one has drawers accessible only when the cabinet is pulled out. Version two has mostly drawers accessible from the front, with big item storage in the back.

Good luck.

[Roger Feeley]

Know anyone redoing their kitchen? I used my old kitchen cabinets in my shop and they work great.
Don, I've used base cabinets and then built my own. I was much happier with what I built. That said, it's hard to argue with the price of old (free) cabinets.

[Roger Feeley]

McMaster-Carr has the good quality, compartmented, plastic boxes with non-adjustable dividers for storing fasteners.

Thanks, I will take a look. My situation is a bit special. Years ago, my brother worked for a bank and they were getting rid of their microfilm (going digital). I got a microfilm cabinet for free. It turns out that a standard plastic electrical box is just about the right width. I'm always on the hunt for better but those boxes can be had at HD for cheap and they work ok.

[Larry Foster]

Another (possibly) profoundly dumb question, please.
In that 5' wide area, I was wondering if you thought it would be better to have 2-30" wide drawers or 3 stacks, say 2-18" and a 24"?

I'm guessing there is some personal preference here.
My thought regarding wider drawers is that I could make a number of dados and have flexibility in compartment sizes with movable dividers

[Bill Adamsen]

Bill, can you provide a link on eBay for those little bins? I’ve been using single gang electrical boxes. They work fairly well but I would like to do better.

Sorry for the slow response (missed the question) ... do a search for "vidmar lista drawer organizer bins" and you will see dozens of different combinations offered by schallercorporation (http://www.ebay.com/usr/schallercorporation?_trksid=p2047675.l2559)