Sharp vs blunt tips of dividers

[Simon MacGowen]

Chris Schwarz argues for two types of tips for use on different types of wood (hard vs soft). I am not buying it as I never alter my dividers' tips regardless of what wood I work on; I alter the pressure when marking. None of other woodworkers whom I know alter their tips either. His proposition is a bit hair splitting to me, or academic if you like.

What about your practice? Do you alter your tips?

Note: This is about the tips not about the Crucible dividers. We have heard all the different views about them in other threads already and so please share your views about the tips.

Simon

[James Pallas]

Hi Simon,
Sharp!
Jim

[Dave Anderson NH]

I have 2 sets of dividers from my g-g-grandfather's tool chest. Neither has been altered in any way and both work just fine. I don't know how you feel about tool marks on furniture, but on 18th century pieces they are common even on the best high style pieces. Scribe marks for fan carving layouts, dovetail base lines, etc, etc. Since I do period work that's good enough for me.

[Jim Koepke]

Chris Schwarz argues for two types of tips for use on different types of wood (hard vs soft). I am not buying it as I never alter my dividers' tips regardless of what wood I work on; I alter the pressure when marking. None of other woodworkers whom I know alter their tips either. His proposition is a bit hair splitting to me, or academic if you like.

What about your practice? Do you alter your tips?

Note: This is about the tips not about the Crucible dividers. We have heard all the different views about them in other threads already and so please share your views about the tips.

Simon

My first impression was What (and most can fill in the rest for themselves).

My second impression was, okay, the Schwarz has figured a way to promote the idea that people need to buy two pair of the dividers he is selling.

For the real thoughts on marking with dividers is how it is done by each individual. To me the tiny pin point dimples left by a sharp divider can be difficult to see. This can be especially true of my drafting dividers with the needle sharp pins.

In these cases, there are a couple of other things one can do other than always changing the tips on a pair of dividers and eventually wearing them down to nubs.

One is to replace the pin with a pencil lead. Most drafting dividers with removable pins use pins the same size as a drafting pencil lead.

Another is to use them like as in Tails of Pins to Come (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?258465-Tails-of-Pins-to-Come) post:

369850

The dividers are used with a dovetail guide. The divider is set to its point and the bevel square is moved to the divider point, the dividers is set down on the bench and a marking knife is then used to mark the layout line. One only needs to remember to do a two step to the edge of the next tail. This is also easier if one learns to use either their left or right hand with a marking knife. This one reason why many of my dovetails have the thinest part of the tail and the widest part of the pin of equal size. If one wants to alter the sizes, then there is a reason for another pair of dividers.

Don't feel bad about having a few pair of dividers. There must be close to a dozen pairs in my shop and about the same in the house.

jtk

[Chuck Nickerson]

I accumulated a fair assortment of dividers in deciding on my favorite style.
My 'stepping something out' dividers have sharp points.
My 'setting an arc' dividers have one end shaped like a nicker.

Necessary? No. Convenient? Yes.

[Jim Koepke]

My 'setting an arc' dividers have one end shaped like a nicker.

If you have an inking point on an old drafting compass it is often easy to disassemble the point and then hone the one blade to a scoring point. Some inking tips might require a little cutting to remove one of the blades. (hint, remove the inside blade.)

Start the score lightly and work it a few times to make it bolder.

jtk