Flush Trim bit in router Table

[George Bokros]

I need to follow a pattern using my flush trim bit in the router table. I will need to do this without the fence. Has anyone done this and do I need to use a starting pin.

Thanks

[Mel Fulks]

I think starter pin use depends on size of the piece. If you judge it to be small and light ,use a pin or block to brace start.
If you think that some grain to pattern orientations might tear out ,just rounding the part edges a bit with sandpaper helps stop grab and tear out.

[George Bokros]

The piece is 2 3/4" wide but only 1" in the pattern area and 30" long.

Thanks for the response Mel

[Mel Fulks]

An area that's only 1 inch wide needs nails ,I think, no more 4 inches apart since it can flex sideways.

[Jerry Miner]

George-- I do a fair amount of free-hand routing on the router table. I have used a starter pin, but I usually skip it if I feel I can control the piece well without the pin.

For me, a 30" piece would be pretty easy to control without the pin. It will depend, though on how much material you're taking off, and the species and grain direction. Light cuts are easier to control. YMMV.

But as noted above, make sure the work piece is securely attached to the pattern

[Randy Heinemann]

If I understand your project correctly, the piece is only 1" wide through at least a section of the part. I would be very careful as that put your hands very close to the router bit. It would be best to be able to clamp the piece and template to a holder of some sort to get your hands away from the bit. I'm sure a search online will come up with some fairly easy holding jigs to make even if it's only for a one-time use. At least you will keep all of your fingers. If you've not done this before, I'd try to find some videos on YouTube that show technique. If I can locate some I will post the links but might not be till tomorrow or the next day.

Generally speaking it is best to use a pin when routing without the fence. I think the best way to describe what the starter pin does is that it helps you ease the wood into the bit and gives some support to the piece your routing. We all do things which aren't recommended but, given the small width of the piece being routed, I'd take precautions.

If I'm misunderstanding the width thing, sorry. Just wanted you to be aware of the problems that can occur with a router bit spinning at 15,000 - 20,000 rpms.

[George Bokros]

Guess I will either just cut the part out close to the layout line with the band saw and use the spindle sander for final shaping. I thought using the router with a flush trim would give me the nice smooth cut but it looks to dangerous to do unless with a hand held router. I could build some support for the router hanging off the piece so I can do it hand held.

Thanks for all the replies and tips.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

I would make a jig to hold the piece and keep my hands away from the bit.

I could show you the scar on my wrist that required 14 stitches to close. This router wound happened after the router was shut off and before it had completely quit spinning. I was deep in thought about a phone call I had received about a family member when I shut the router off, flipped it upside down, released the lock and plunged it down to the next level. Unfortunately the bit was still spinning when it made contact with my wrist. I had some numbness in a small area of the palm of my hand for a few years but eventually the nerve must have reconnected as the numbness went away. I was lucky as that was my only symptom.

Error on the side of caution and safety!

[Lee Schierer]

The starter pin is usually a safer way to start. It depends on how much material needs to be removed before the template will contact the bit. Anything over 1/8" can grab if you don't have good control of the piece. Once you get started and have a short area trimmed, back the piece off and remove your starter pin if it is going to be in your way. Resume the trimming in the area that was already trimmed. Stick your template in place with double sided tape so the template won't move.

[andy bessette]

With a flush trim bit a starter pin should not be necessary as long as you trim the waste close to the line and begin the cut with care. Even a 1" wide workpiece is OK as long as it is long enough to keep your hands away from the bit.

[Doug Garson]

Further to Ken's suggestion, have a look at this video from Stumpy Nubs.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=feTWRENUjOQ

[Randy Heinemann]

Guess I will either just cut the part out close to the layout line with the band saw and use the spindle sander for final shaping. I thought using the router with a flush trim would give me the nice smooth cut but it looks to dangerous to do unless with a hand held router. I could build some support for the router hanging off the piece so I can do it hand held.

Thanks for all the replies and tips.

Not really dangerous as long as it's done safely. If you're uncomfortable with it, try it on a larger practice piece. It's a good technique to get good at as it allows the capability to duplicate parts in larger projects or if you are making multiples of smaller projects.

Regardless of whether you use a spindle sander or rout it with a template, it's best to cut the part out close to the layout line anyway. The less material you must remove with the router bit the less resistance there will be when pushing the wood into the bit.

[George Bokros]

[QUOTE=Randy Heinemann;2735913]Regardless of whether you use a spindle sander or rout it with a template, it's best to cut the part out close to the layout line anyway.QUOTE]

I always cut close to the line before shaping with the spindle sander.

[Matt Day]

I’m not sure what “1” in the pattern area” means. I’ll assume it’s 1” thick, 2 3/4” wise, and 30”.

You have a router table, use it. If it’s a straight piece, use the fence and and put the bit a hair proud of it.

[glenn bradley]

I make my template so that there is a 2 - 3" starting lead-in and lead-out, ahead of and after, the material to be cut. This avoids the need for a starting pin. I also use a modified guard.

369712

If you don't have extra template sticking out to start the cut, I would use a starting pin.

[Allan Dozier]

If the piece that is 1" wide will be cut off a larger piece is it possible to route the edge before ripping the strip off the larger source piece?

[mark mcfarlane]

FWIW, you can make a guide that acts like a starter pin by clamping a rounded board to your router table. This may be helpful if you don't have a starter pin, or don't have a ready made insert in your router plate/lift to screw in a starter pin.

[marty fretheim]

I make my template so that there is a 2 - 3" starting lead-in and lead-out, ahead of and after, the material to be cut. This avoids the need for a starting pin. I also use a modified guard.

369712

If you don't have extra template sticking out to start the cut, I would use a starting pin.


+1 on this and +1 on what others said as well. When using a jig leave some lead in and out, if not using a jig leave the minimal amount of material as possible cause for a split second you may be climb cutting and it could go horribly wrong in a hurry.

Ask me how I know. Still have all my fingers in tact but not that board.