Used Powermatic 66....Is it worth the money?

[Michael Bartholome]

I've been a long time reader but this is my first post. I have learned a great deal on info from the group. Thanks to everyone for the wealth of information.

I have been looking at purchasing a different table saw for a few months. I started with a job site Ridgid unit and it simply is not cutting it anymore. I have come across and older Powermatic 66 unit. Based on the serial (166884) I believe it is a 1968 model. I have a vintage Powermatic 6" Jointer and love it. With the exception of the task of swapping out the knives. The saw is a unit someone purchased from a school auction and is now reselling so he knows little about it. But he said it shows little wear. Based on the pics and the information from the seller, it is missing the front cover and the fence. It is a 3 phase 3hp unit. I understand it is a 3 phase unit but I have a VFD so that is not an issue.

He is wanting $550 for the unit. Is this a good buy? Since the fence in missing I would likely put a Vega fence on the unit. With the cost of the saw at $550, a fence at about $300, and the $150 I have into the VFD, I would have about $1000 into the saw assuming nothing else is needed. Is this a good buy or would I be paying more for the saw then it would be worth? Any feedback, thoughts, or suggestions would be great.

[Darcy Warner]

I am sure you can find/make the beismeyer fence/head part that is missing. Saw looks clean.

It is missing dust door and motor cover.

[Mike Hollingsworth]

I had a similar setup in an earlier life. Amurican iron is the best. Throw in some new bearings and you have a new saw.

Still, with the injuries I've had over the years, a riving knife for me is a must.
You can make do with the splitter, but at least think about a new Grizzly with a riving knife.

[Michael Bartholome]

Thanks for the feedback. I have also been considering a Grizzly. The G1023RL is what I'm looking at. I was looking at the new G0833P but it seems the G1023RL is a better option.

[David Kumm]

The bones and guts of the old PM will be superior to a new saw of similar design but your call. The old PM used a decent Meehanite graded cast iron and the Beisemeyer head should be obtainable on the bay or over at owwm. A splitter can be made to handle most cuts or a sharkguard can be added to handle splitter and dust control. 450 would be closer to my number if you also need a vfd. With love that saw will outlast you. Dave

[lee cox]

Around where I live that is a cheap price for a PM66. I would grab it up. You will be able to find a fence. I have an old Unisaw which I would not part with. But where I live the PM66 saws sell for more than an Unisaw. Going back if I could of bought a PM66 saw that cheap I would have without thinking about it.

[Chris Hachet]

Give it a good once over with a flash light with the top removed o make sure nothing is cracked or missing. Spare parts for these went out of production some time ago.

I have a 1973 Unisaw that does everything I ask of it and couldn't be happier.

Grizzly 1023 will come nice and shiny and make sawdust for decades also. I would ask myself which saw I like the Visual aesthetic if better and how tolerant of risk I was.

Grizzly is a nice option if you do not want risk.

[Jesse Busenitz]

They are a great saw! I had two of them at one point but then got a PM 92. Seems a tad high given its 3phs. I'd try and find a fence head.

[Bill Dufour]

I believe they use a standard NEMA C-face motor so it may be easier/cheaper to switch the motor then fool with a vfd.

[Matt Day]

No doubt that is a very nice saw. I love old iron - just check out those hand wheels, character is what’s missing on a new saw.

A school saw is generally a good thing - it wasn’t used nearly as hard as it was designed for. But maintenance might have been overlooked, Might need more and arbor bearings, and belts.

Anyway, Biesemeyer fences and fence parts come up for sale on occasion so I’d keep my eyes peeled. I’ve sold a couple myself. Post a WTB on a couple forums such as here, OWWM, and woodnet. OWWM is probably your best shot for parts like dust door - I’d make a plywood motor cover and dust door if you’re doing it in the cheap.

If your patient you could find a fence for $100, and $30 for plywood, $20 for arbor bearings (assuming it needs it) and $20 for Gates’ belts and your good to go with a very nice user saw.

That all being said, I bought a 3 phase PM65 (basically the same saw, just a few years older) at Auction for about $250. Had a complete Biesemeyer fence, all doors and covers, etc. I restored it completely and sold it for my asking price of $900. $550 for what’s there seems a bit steap. I’d offer $400 and settle at $450. I’m guessing the current owner bought it at Auction to flip.

[Mike Henderson]

I would recommend a newer saw with a riving knife - even if it cost a bit more.

Mike

[andy bessette]

The 66 is a good saw. But you could probably find a 66 or a Unisaw complete with fence and single phase motor for his asking price.

[Cary Falk]

I am sure you can find/make the beismeyer fence/head part that is missing. Saw looks clean.

It is missing dust door and motor cover.

I am no expert on the PM66 but it looks like the front height lock knob is missing also

[Bradley Gray]

My 66 is a bit older but it doesn't have a height lock - never has been a problem.

Great saw!

[Chris Hachet]

Depends on what part of the country you live in. I looked for months to find a complete unmolested Unisaw with everything in good shape and feel fortunate to have found mine for $500.
Also, three phase motors are really robust, were I loking or another table saw 3 phase would be high on my list.

[Matt Day]

I am no expert on the PM66 but it looks like the front height lock knob is missing also

You’re right Cary. They are easy to make on the cheap however, and if the OP buys it he can contact me and i’ll show him my pm65 thread on OWWM.

[lee cox]

If you miss the saw just wait for another one. I like old American iron so I would not buy a Grizzly. Why buy second best. I love my Unisaw. The prices on these old saws are going up. The prices which were $300 to $500 a few years ago are now $700 to $1000. Once you fix one up it will last the rest of your life. Have them run the saw. If it runs and the controls work you are probably safe.

I see Grizzlie's for sell on craigslist which seem not to sell well. I think they ask too much personally.

[Vinito Caleb]

I picked up something about like that saw (a little bit newer 66, but still older). It was about the same price but had the motor cover.
All the inner workings were pretty stiff, but that just required taking it apart, cleaning and dry/grease lubing where appropriate. While I was in there I replaced the bearings too. I just put a static phase converter on mine.
Anyways, it works pretty well! My fence is a bit wonky so needs some attention.
The newer fences are more adjustable and the newer saws have a few nicer features (i.e. riving knife), but I'm happy with my saw - it's smooth & quick to adjust, plenty of power for my needs and rock solid. I would be somewhat happier with a little more bells & whistles, but I certainly don't need any. It's definitely tons nicer than any saw I've ever had before - which were old American iron, but relatively flimsy and cheap.

[Mike Kees]

I think that you could buy the "super cool tools'' fence head and be in business. Solid saw ,good fence what more does a man need ? Good luck, Mike.