How would you refinish this teak garden furniture?

[Mark Gibney]

What's the best way to refinish this 4x10 teak outdoor table and the seven teak chairs?

For most of it I'm tempted to apply a deck finish, rubbed in using a white nylon pad, then wipe it dry ten minutes later.

I could be persuaded to use a random orbital on the table top, and the thick sides of the top, prior to rubbing in the oil, but not unless it the best way to go.

The chairs have so many back spindles I would like to avoid having to sand each and every one of those.

By the way, this is not my furniture, I got asked by someone and even though it's not what I do, I've ended up taking it on.

Any and all opinions welcome. Thanks!
369482
369483
369484
369485

[Jim Becker]

What was it finished with originally? If it was a film finish (hopefully not...) you'll want to completely strip it for best results. Oil will not penetrate if there's a film finish on it now. If it was just oiled than wiping on something is possible, although you still need to weigh how good it will look without cleaning it up.

[Andy Giddings]

Found this web page about the pros/cons of using oil on teak, might be helpful? http://teakpatiofurnitureworld.com/should-you-treat-teak-patio-furniture-with-teak-oil/

[Mark Gibney]

Jim, that's the big question - was the original finish a film finish? It's hard to tell. I tried calling the company, Ascot, but the number is disconnected.

And this is exactly why I'd prefer not to do this job, sanding all those spindles?

Andy, thanks for that link. Maybe a way to go is to order the product and try it out on one chair.

Thank you both, appreciate it.

[Julie Moriarty]

I bought an Ipe bench a few years ago. I applied Defy Extreme (http://www.defywoodstain.com/product/defy-extreme-wood-stain/) wood stain in clear. With Defy you have to apply wet-on-wet, 2 coats, and you're done. I was very impressed with how it held up on exterior cedar.

The Ipe didn't absorb like the cedar but the Defy kept the wood looking new for a couple of years, most of that in the Florida sun.

[Mark Gibney]

Interesting that this Defy product stayed on ipe for two years outdoor, and it's water based. Thanks for the info, I'll have to check this out.

[Julie Moriarty]

Interesting that this Defy product stayed on ipe for two years outdoor, and it's water based. Thanks for the info, I'll have to check this out.
It lasted for well over a year before the wood began to lose it's rich, dark appearance. Right now, over two years later, it's still brown but not the deep brown it was when new.

When I applied Defy (http://www.defywoodstain.com/) to the bench, in May or June of 2015, I didn't think it was being absorbed but I went ahead and did the wet-on-wet application anyway. You have to apply it wet-on-wet because if the first coat is allowed to dry, it seals out the second coat. It applies more like a stain. My guess is the second coat on a wet first coat is to fill in what the first coat missed.

[John TenEyck]

Interesting that this Defy product stayed on ipe for two years outdoor, and it's water based. Thanks for the info, I'll have to check this out.

I have an Ipe' deck. Nothing oil based has lasted more than a few months before starting to fade. If I apply it in June, by Winter it looks like mud even if I clean it once a month. So this year I made up a sample board, one half with another OB product, one half with a WB one. As usual, the OB one now looks as poor as my deck, but the WB one is still looking pretty good.

Next Spring I am going to strip my deck, again, and not an easy task, and apply a WB product. I'm strongly considering a product from WoodRx or Sansin, but the one Julie had good luck with goes on my list to consider now, too.

http://www.woodrx.com/

http://www.sansin.com/decks_and_exteriors/decks/

Of all the commercial deck strippers I've tried, Jomax is the only one that has worked well for me. But it costs well over $100 to do my whole deck so I looked for cheaper alternatives. Good old TSP (Trisodium Phosphate) plus bleach do an amazing job, at very low cost. It removes the old finish, dirt, and any mold as fast as any commercial product I've tried.

John

[Mel Fulks]

I've never seen any new teak stuff that didn't have an oil treatment. I would just add oil. Or do nothing and let it "weather
to a beautiful grey" . Yeah, everyone seems to hate the grey.

[Wayne Lomman]

It's a film finish. Look at the photo of the corner of the table and you can see the white edge to the bare patch which is typical film finish failure in this environment. How much do they want to pay? The choices are

Strip it back and start over with whatever finish you like or

Scuff sand it, remove loose and delaminated coating and apply another film finish. Spot apply extra coats on the bare patches to keep the finish equally full. No option gets you out of sanding chair splats. Cheers