Cabinet/Side Panel securing?

[Andrew Wayland]

Good Afternoon all:

I’m working on a Bar in my basement: I’m moving along, but I ran into a last minute goof that is requiring change:

I built a sturdy cabinet in order to House a kegerator. I got my specs from a few kegerators I was looking at, but I ended up buying one that won’t fit!

So my solution is to cut out the base, and keep the sides/ top, so the I can roll the kegerator right on in.

But, by cutting out the bottom, I’ll have a floppy side panel that’s only secured on the side and top.



My options as I see them, are to

1: cut a piece of plywood to go above the floor and use pocket screws to provide strength (but I’m worried about haveing plywood directly down over tile due to moisture concerns)

2: make a few L brackets and drill them into the tile grout lines?


any advice would help!!!

[Andrew Wayland]

369435

Heres a photo of what I’m looking at: no idea why the forum keeps inverting it, but it gives you an idea.... also: the light color on the bottom 5” is just the same plywood that was never hit with finish...

[Ken Fitzgerald]

I would make a couple small triangular blocks that I'd glue and screw into the panels just below the finish line on the panels. The screws wouldn't have to be long enough to penetrate through the side panels. The glue would be holding agent.

[Andrew Wayland]

I would make a couple small triangular blocks that I'd glue and screw into the panels just below the finish line on the panels. The screws wouldn't have to be long enough to penetrate through the side panels. The glue would be holding agent.

That’s a potential option: but I may be removing that rear bottom support against the wall to make clearance for the kegerator compressor.

[John TenEyck]

I would exchange the kegerator for one that fits your cabinet or build a new cabinet to fit the one you have. You plan to have this for a long time, right? Why compromise right out of the chute?

John

[Wayne Lomman]

Use a good polyurethane adhesive sealant such as sikaflex pro and glue the bottom edge to the floor. You will have to remove the panel and re install it to get the sealant under it. This will work for the life of the joinery, it doesn't damage the tiles, it doesn't create silicone contamination problems with refinishing and it is removable if you renovate down the track. This is a professional technique used for such situations. I hope your build is sufficiently modular/prefabricated to allow the partial demolition. Problems at the end are one of the reasons why professionals prefabricate. Cheers

[andy bessette]

...I ended up buying one that won’t fit!...


I would exchange the kegerator for one that fits your cabinet or build a new cabinet to fit the one you have...

This. Start over and do it right.

[Andrew Wayland]

Well: in the end I’ll likely want the same design: essentially a box where I can roll the appliance into the space. so ripping it all apart and wasting wood seems a bit extreme.

I like the polyurethane idea: but how does it remove from tile? I’m thinking I can use a combination of the urethane and L-brackets to get the job done!

Any suggestions on what adhesive to purchase?

[Wayne Lomman]

It's just urethane sealant as opposed to silicone sealant. Go look in your hardware shop and it will be there in the same area of the shop. It will scrape off the tiles later with some effort. It is a b.....d to get off your hands so wear gloves. Don't add the L bracket until the sealant is set. You probably won't need it. Cheers

[Lee Schierer]

Heres a photo of what I’m looking at: no idea why the forum keeps inverting it...

Taking photos with a cell phone can be the cause of your problem. Cell phone photo software will orient the photo automatically to up for viewing on your phone no matter how you hold your phone when viewing. Unfortunately it doesn't work that way with the forum software. If you preview your images on a PC (or mac) they will not automatically rotate and then you can manually rotate them to have the right side up before you upload them. You can avoid this if you always hold your phone with the top up when you take photos. Check out this Thread regarding photos. (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?258495-Why-your-photos-show-up-sideways-on-SMC)

[Andrew Wayland]

It's just urethane sealant as opposed to silicone sealant. Go look in your hardware shop and it will be there in the same area of the shop. It will scrape off the tiles later with some effort. It is a b.....d to get off your hands so wear gloves. Don't add the L bracket until the sealant is set. You probably won't need it. Cheers

Alright: so definitely sealant and not adhesive? I was thinking you were suggesting construction adhesive, but I figured that would break the tile if I ever tried to remove it.




Taking photos with a cell phone can be the cause of your problem. Cell phone photo software will orient the photo automatically to up for viewing on your phone no matter how you hold your phone when viewing. Unfortunately it doesn't work that way with the forum software. If you preview your images on a PC (or mac) they will not automatically rotate and then you can manually rotate them to have the right side up before you upload them. You can avoid this if you always hold your phone with the top up when you take photos. Check out this Thread regarding photos. (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?258495-Why-your-photos-show-up-sideways-on-SMC)

Thanks Lee: I saw your post and also sent you a PM

[Keith Weber]

Andrew, I like the color on that finish. What did you use? Thx!

[Wayne Lomman]

Yes it's is a sealant/adhesive. The ones I commonly use are mainly sold as sealant for control joints in brickwork and concrete. It will set as moderately dense rubber-looking stuff. I can get it in a limited range of colours so pick one to suit.

This type of installation is often needed where you have a concealed washing machine or refrigerator. Sometimes a dowel is required in the bottom edge of the panel to locate it to the floor of it is likely to get kicked a lot. Cheers

[Andrew Wayland]

Andrew, I like the color on that finish. What did you use? Thx!
Just cherry wood that was aged with lye.

[Carl Baker]

if you don't mind a little drywall work, could you install a 1x similar to your baseboard used on the outside and let it run into the wall framing? Add 2x4 blocking in the wall as needed and get a solid attachment there would stiffen the bottom edge of the side panel quite a bit.
Other option is to add a removable toe kick with a latch on the inside at each end. You' have to roll the kegerator in and see if there is any clearance to be able to do that, though.