Robert Stanton
10-04-2017, 10:53 AM
As I covered in a recent post the speed control in my Porter Cable 7518 has failed twice in less than a year. I sent it in for repair and it failed shortly after. On the recommendation of a fellow Creeker I purchased the SuperPID closed loop router speed control. The company http://superpid.com/ offers various enclosures and peripherals on their site. The controlled comes with an infrared sensor/cable and potentiometer. I elected to collect the other parts from my junk pile.
I gutted a 1200w desktop power supply from Master Cool. The size was appropriate and I was able to utilize the integrated 12VDC fan. Due to the location I mounted the controller box I needed to seal off the cooling vent on the top. This was accomplished by applying masking tape to the inside of the vent holes. I then applied a liberal amount of black silicone caulk to the outside surface and spread it smooth. After some not so careful measurements I cut the viewing window, holes for the switch and pot, and drilled the mounting holes for the CCA.
369098369103369104
The company recommended an aluminum bar to attach to the triac heat bar. I found a CPU sink that exceeded their recommendation. I drilled/tapped holes into the sink, applied the thermal coupling sauce, and screwed it on.
I purchased a 6' piece of conduit from Lowes that came with couplers that suited my application. I could have possibly saved money by piecing it together but I bought the pre packaged unit.
369099
The SuperPID requires a 5VDC logic power and I needed 12VDC for the cooling fan. I utilized a working 500w desktop power supply for the logic power and fan power. Case power supplies require the grounding of a 5V signal (green wire) to turn the unit on. I opted to switch the power supply signal to ground at the controller box. This prevents the unit from running when not in use. A "run" signal must be grounded to turn on the router. This signal is routed to my old 110VAC ON/OFF switch mounted to my table. I chose to run a CAT5 cable to supply these signal and power lines. None of the current requirements exceed that of 28AWG. 110VAC must be run to the controller and the output AC must be sent to the router.
The controller unit operates on a RPM feedback circuit via an infrared sensor. This sensor must be pointed at the spindle of the router. A contrast from light to dark must be created. I utilized correction fluid (white out) and my daughters black nail polish. I removed the original speed controller from the router. I wanted to install the sensor inside the case but the only place on the spindle suitable to point the IR sensor to was too thin for my comfort. I opted to do as others have done and pointed the sensor over the top of the spindle at the rear bearing. I really didn't want to leave it exposed as it is but no other option was available.
369101
The attached photos do not depict all that I wish they did. I intend to add a photo of the sensor protruding from the top of the router. 369082369083369084369085369086
I cannot yet give a review of the performance of the unit because I only got it running last night. I can say the "hunting" exhibited by the PC speed control is almost non-existent. 369100369102
I gutted a 1200w desktop power supply from Master Cool. The size was appropriate and I was able to utilize the integrated 12VDC fan. Due to the location I mounted the controller box I needed to seal off the cooling vent on the top. This was accomplished by applying masking tape to the inside of the vent holes. I then applied a liberal amount of black silicone caulk to the outside surface and spread it smooth. After some not so careful measurements I cut the viewing window, holes for the switch and pot, and drilled the mounting holes for the CCA.
369098369103369104
The company recommended an aluminum bar to attach to the triac heat bar. I found a CPU sink that exceeded their recommendation. I drilled/tapped holes into the sink, applied the thermal coupling sauce, and screwed it on.
I purchased a 6' piece of conduit from Lowes that came with couplers that suited my application. I could have possibly saved money by piecing it together but I bought the pre packaged unit.
369099
The SuperPID requires a 5VDC logic power and I needed 12VDC for the cooling fan. I utilized a working 500w desktop power supply for the logic power and fan power. Case power supplies require the grounding of a 5V signal (green wire) to turn the unit on. I opted to switch the power supply signal to ground at the controller box. This prevents the unit from running when not in use. A "run" signal must be grounded to turn on the router. This signal is routed to my old 110VAC ON/OFF switch mounted to my table. I chose to run a CAT5 cable to supply these signal and power lines. None of the current requirements exceed that of 28AWG. 110VAC must be run to the controller and the output AC must be sent to the router.
The controller unit operates on a RPM feedback circuit via an infrared sensor. This sensor must be pointed at the spindle of the router. A contrast from light to dark must be created. I utilized correction fluid (white out) and my daughters black nail polish. I removed the original speed controller from the router. I wanted to install the sensor inside the case but the only place on the spindle suitable to point the IR sensor to was too thin for my comfort. I opted to do as others have done and pointed the sensor over the top of the spindle at the rear bearing. I really didn't want to leave it exposed as it is but no other option was available.
369101
The attached photos do not depict all that I wish they did. I intend to add a photo of the sensor protruding from the top of the router. 369082369083369084369085369086
I cannot yet give a review of the performance of the unit because I only got it running last night. I can say the "hunting" exhibited by the PC speed control is almost non-existent. 369100369102