Easiest way to do rabbets on small boxes? Planning Hinoki speakers--would love tips

[Matt Lau]

After going to a relative's funeral on Sunday, I'm been thinking a lot about what it means to live.
My relative was selfish, mean, and only about 20 people showed up (excluding the pallbearers).
I didn't even know her name despite being her grand-nephew.

I've been looking at my life, and want to make sure that I don't just waste it.
I've resolved to stop focusing just on work and the challenges of life...instead to focus on friendships and enjoy the moment...and get on with life and start a family.

I'd like to make beautiful things for friends and family to show my love.

For one of my first projects (aside from tweaking the floor bench so that I can use it better), I'd like to make some Hinoki sake-cup inspired speakers.
I figure that it'll be a good practice on stock preparation, joinery, and finish...and can be done anywhere I can fit my floor bench.
More importantly, I can present someone with a beautiful, impossible to buy speaker that will bring pleasure long after I'm gone.

1. Any details on how Hinoki sake cups are made?
I bought a cup to study. It looks like fingerjoined sides, and a bottom that is rabbeted and glued into place...or is it just a piece of wood glued flush into place?
2. What is the easiest, most foolproof way to make a rabbet by hand?
Should I just saw it? Should I waste it with a chisel and clean up with router plane? Or is a specialized rabbet block best?
I don't have a ton of time, so don't mind the stigma of training wheels.
3. Any recommendation on the traditional finish?
I'm not sure if these were traditionally unfinished, or had a thin film of wax?
4. I'm thinking of making a roundover/chamfer for the circle of the speaker, how would I do it by hand?
Should I just use a very sharp knife? Scratch stock? Specialized plane? Inquiring minds would like to know!

I don't really drink (:p), so I'm not too familiar with these fancy things.
I just think this would make a really great present for my friend.

-Matt

[Pat Barry]

I don't know what you are talking about but it sounds like tiny audio speakers? Is that right? Do you have an example picture or two that you could post to better explain them?

[Jim Koepke]

So many ways… So little time.

This really depends on what you have to start your project.

Do you have any kind of rabbet or combination plane?

This would allow a piece to be rabbeted before cutting into smaller pieces for the sides.

You could make a tilted rabbet so the bottom would fit in like a half dovetail.

You could also make a rabbet with a plowed slot, rabbet around the bottom piece so it would fit in the slot and the bottom would be flush or recessed to the sides.

jtk

[Jim Koepke]

4. I'm thinking of making a roundover/chamfer for the circle of the speaker, how would I do it by hand?

A curved bottom spokeshave would help doing this.

jtk

[Matt Lau]

Jim,

Thanks for the tip!

As for tools that might work for rabbets, I have japanese saws and chisels (thanks to Stan), LV plow plane, LV router plane, LV medium shoulder plane...I'm not averse to making a plane with scrap (a la David weaver) or just buying a plane for the project.

For the roundover, I may make/buy a curved bottom spokeshve--didn't even think of this. Thanks!

[Matt Lau]

I don't know what you are talking about but it sounds like tiny audio speakers? Is that right? Do you have an example picture or two that you could post to better explain them?

I don't know if this helps

369109

[Matt Lau]

It'd probably be similar to this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wVujPr_UpAA

Except that I'd like to do it by hand, and possibly have a removable panel in case stuff needs fixing.
The box will be about 4.5 " square.

[Jim Koepke]

The LV plow and the shoulder plane should be fine for making rabbets.

Here is a video of mine using an unfenced rabbet plane to make a rabbet:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZPQiTcewxCE

This spokeshave was beyond my ability to resist when they were introduced:

http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=71042&cat=1,50230&ap=1

It was at a lower price at the time. My recollection was it was the introduction of the PM v-11 blades that inspired the introductory price. It is a bit smaller than a shave like the Stanley #63.

jtk

[John Schtrumpf]

I think both Richard Maguire (The English Woodworker) has a video for making rabbets in various ways.

A shoulder plane is a 'Rabbet' plane, and can be used to clean up or make rabbets.

The LV plow plane can be used to make rabbets with the grain, and if you strike and/or saw the shoulder can be used for cross grain rabbets.

You can also just chisel (optionally saw the shoulder) cross grain rabbets and clean them up with your shoulder plane.

The hand tool equivalent of finger joints, is dovetails (with hand tools they are both about the same procedure). Paul Sellers has youtube videos for making dovetails.


For a speaker box that small, use a speaker that mounts with screws through the bezel. Then to access the insides later on, just remove the speaker.

Good luck.

[Pat Barry]

It'd probably be similar to this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wVujPr_UpAA

Except that I'd like to do it by hand, and possibly have a removable panel in case stuff needs fixing.
The box will be about 4.5 " square.
That's a great idea! I have some mahogany scraps that might do well in that application as they are already just about the right size. Do you know if the Rockler kit is decent quality audio? Or do you have something different in mind for the electronics?

[Patrick Chase]

It'd probably be similar to this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wVujPr_UpAA

Except that I'd like to do it by hand, and possibly have a removable panel in case stuff needs fixing.
The box will be about 4.5 " square.

I would probably use a skew block or skew rabbet for work of that scale, though as Jim says there are many options.

IIRC this isn't the first time you've brought up the idea of a "neander speaker" and I'll throw out the same caution as last time: Solid wood is acoustically "live", which means that it tends to color any sound that reflects from it or resonates within it. That's terrific for a musical instrument like a guitar or violin, but generally not what you want from a speaker enclosure.

[Jim Koepke]

Solid wood is acoustically "live", which means that it tends to color any sound that reflects from it or resonates within it.

If:


The box will be about 4.5 " square.

It is unlikely the OP is looking for something considered to be an audiophile's dream. Though depending on the musical tastes of the person it is intended for as a gift might influence what woods might be best for "coloring the sound" to one's listening preferences.

jtk

[Pat Barry]

If:



It is unlikely the OP is looking for something considered to be an audiophile's dream. Though depending on the musical tastes of the person it is intended for as a gift might influence what woods might be best for "coloring the sound" to one's listening preferences.

jtk
Yes, for a small, low powered, speaker like this it's not much of an issue to be so 'accurate' in sound reproduction. I was more interested in whether or not there would be much 'depth' and low frequency response. It might sound like an old transistor radio.

[Patrick Chase]

Yes, for a small, low powered, speaker like this it's not much of an issue to be so 'accurate' in sound reproduction. I was more interested in whether or not there would be much 'depth' and low frequency response. It might sound like an old transistor radio.

That's a design choice. Small drivers can reach way down *if* you're willing to sacrifice efficiency and peak sound pressure level to get there. Headphones are an extreme example of that principle.

[Matt Lau]

Actually, quite a few speaker nuts rate the design quite highly as "acceptable."
Leroy tried sticking some inexpensive full-range drivers in a cardboard box, and was floored with the results.
The the drivers were no longer produced. So he did version 2, then version 3...

http://techtalk.parts-express.com/forum/speaker-project-gallery/59839-minions-iii-and-minions-ii

I just figure that it'd be a better than walmart sounding set of satellites.

[Pat Barry]

That's a design choice. Small drivers can reach way down *if* you're willing to sacrifice efficiency and peak sound pressure level to get there. Headphones are an extreme example of that principle.
Of course with efficiency inversely goes audio output 'volume' and subsequently battery life - headphones don't care too much about that because of the intimate coupling of the speaker to the ear and therefore not much 'volume' is needed. For a little desktop, portable speaker the issue is different. Lots of speaker designs out there that are small however, but tons of research goes in to making them efficient enough and deliver good audio output. Maybe they are worth a try at only around $30 for the electronics and speaker, or maybe there is a 'better' speaker that could be substituted. Of course, the the amplifier needs to be actually capable of delivering a full spectrum response with enough energy to drive the low end, and we are talking about a pretty small battery. - Thanks Matt for the idea!

[Pat Barry]

Maybe you've seen this but, if not, take a look at the Sony at this link for something to compare to.

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/sony-xb10-portable-bluetooth-speaker-black/5744202.p?skuId=5744202&ref=212&loc=1&ksid=aba26306-da21-4dd3-8188-38c6bb644f2b&ksprof_id=11&ksaffcode=pg210752&ksdevice=c&lsft=ref:212,loc:2

[Matt Lau]

Pat, Thanks for the link.

The speaker design that I was linking to is for plugged in performance (with subwoofer).
Adding in a battery would be more expensive, and limit the life of the speaker (batteries need replacing).
I think the design gets up to 90 db prior to any distortion?

Eventually, I was going to pair some of those drivers with a 2.1 amp and a tangband subwoofer to make something like this:369342

Of course, I first need to get basic neander skills down like stock prep, joinery, and making a nice box.
This should be hopefully fun.

[Matt Lau]

Update:

Yesterday, I was hanging out with that sushi friend.
We went to Hida tool, the Gourmet Ghetto of Berkeley, Farmer's Market, and Oakland Chinatown...places he'd wanted to go for the past four years, but never had time because of the restaurant.

While at Hida tool, I found a Japanese Moving Fillister plane.
It's probably not as good as Takeo Nakano, but I'm just glad to find something that feels good in the hand.

I felt a bit guilty buying it, but justified it as a birthday present to myself (and it was much cheaper than a LN rabbet block plane).

[Jim Koepke]

We went to Hida tool, the Gourmet Ghetto of Berkeley, Farmer's Market, and Oakland Chinatown

Gosh, brings back memories... All my pull saws were bought at Hida tool when my residence was in San Pablo, CA. Used to love to go to Monterey Market and grab a coffee up at Peet's. Used to work right next to Oakland Chinatown and eat there often.

jtk

[Matt Lau]

Hey Jim,

If you're ever up in the area, feel free to give me a ring.
I'd be happy to treat you to dinner.