Inexpensive but accurate chopsaw / mitre saw / sliding compound mitre saw?

[William Chain]

I'm currently running a Kobalt 12 inch dual bevel sliding compound mitre saw. It was a Christmas gift, and at the time I hadn't gotten as deeply into woodworking as I am now. It is an ok saw, it is ok for the price I guess, but I have a very hard time keeping it square. I like the capacity, I can chop very wide material but I find that I just cannot get an accurate square cut out of it. At this point I rough cut on this saw, and do my final cuts by cross cutting on the table saw, mostly just to square it up.

Does anyone have any tips for squaring up the Kobalt? The laser is just ok, I hate that its on the right side of the blade, I'd prefer on the left, or on both sides of the kerf, and I can get the laser aligned with the blade, but its a bear to just get the blade squared to the fence. I can get close, but not perfect. Anything wider than three inches and its out of square. If you're chopping 2x4's or framing, this saw is just fine.

Shall I just move on to something better? If so, what is a good compromise on price / accuracy? I don't want to throw down for a green tool. There's gotta be a decent big box option for an accurate chop saw.

Thanks for any advice.

[Mike Henderson]

You don't say where you are but Craigslist is your friend. Decide on a brand and model and scour Craigslist. It'll take time but eventually you'll find a reasonable priced used saw.

I had a Bosch 12 inch that was pretty accurate and kept it's alignment.

Mike

[john lawson]

Youtube videos on how to square a Kobalt SLCM, involves a few tools and some patience, can't guarantee it will stay that way but that is where to start.

[Robert Engel]

The issue is not getting it square it is will it hold its settings, like John ^ said. This is the big issue with radial arm saws and really any of the cheaper brand machines.

I would move on to something better. That echelon of tools are best suited for the contractor.

Fine WW'ing has an excellent review on miter saws. As I recall the Bosch, DW and Rigid were the best.

You can go the CL route just keep in mind whether its been bouncing around in a pickup from site to site. Around me the 10" saws go for considerably cheaper.

[Art Mann]

I use a Bosch GCM12SD, which is not a cheap or poorly designed piece of equipment. In order to do any better, I would have to consider something much more expensive like the Festool Kapex. As it is, I use a table saw and cross cut sled if I want the very best accuracy.

[Bradley Gray]

There are lots of old iron RAS's around for low low prices if you have room.

[Mike Berrevoets]

For woodworking I look at a miter saw as just a chop saw to break down long boards to rough length. Anything requiring precision cross cuts and repeatable cross cuts goes on the table saw sled. I have just a cheaper 12” hitachi and honestly it may not even be at exactly 90 as I don’t care too much if it is.

The real use the miter saw gets is for home improvement projects like cutting trim.

But, that is just how I work so for me an accurate miter saw is not a high priority.

[Marc Jeske]

What crosscut capacity do you need?

@ 90 ? or ?

And how LONG are these wide boards you will be cutting?

It matters.


Are these boards "too long" to safely cut on your tablesaw ?

I'm planning on crosscutting 29" wide x 7 ft long pieces (on a special made sled and extension tables) on my tablesaw, cause I need close to that 3" depth.


Even though most newer sliders have ballpark similar capacities, your info may still help. Marc

[Joe Shinall]

I have the Hitachi 12 inch dual bevel compound sliding miter saw and absolutely love it. It's the C12RSH2 and set me back about $400 at Lowe's. I think theyre 450 but I had a %10 off coupon and got another 5% off with my Lowe's card. There are people out there that won't use them for fine stuff but I have never been off on anything I have built using mine and I use it for every project and might I say I make some damn quality stuff. It is, however, not as cheap as you may want but I have found that you get what you pay for in miter saws, like most things.

[John TenEyck]

I'm with Brad. If you don't need portability, an old RAS will be more accurate, more versatile, likely have more capacity, and cost a whole lot less than a quality sliding miter saw. Old Dewalts and Deltas show up regularly around me for less than $500. My Dewalt and I were born in the same year, 1954 and, unlike me, has lost none of its capabilities.

John

[Chris Hachet]

There are lots of old iron RAS's around for low low prices if you have room. This for the win

[Chris Hachet]

I'm with Brad. If you don't need portability, an old RAS will be more accurate, more versatile, likely have more capacity, and cost a whole lot less than a quality sliding miter saw. Old Dewalts and Deltas show up regularly around me for less than $500. My Dewalt and I were born in the same year, 1954 and, unlike me, has lost none of its capabilities.

JohnPlus, old tools have an awesomeness factor Big box store tools don't.

[Marc Jeske]

Looking back on the OP thread, I think a few of us - Mostly myself.. got involved down the "max crosscut" road.

So, reading it again I don't think he has a more than average need for wide crosscuts.. he was just saying the angle was off.

OP has yet to respond, but sounds like he just needs a better slider. mitersaw. Marc

[John TenEyck]

Looking back on the OP thread, I think a few of us - Mostly myself.. got involved down the "max crosscut" road.

So, reading it again I don't think he has a more than average need for wide crosscuts.. he was just saying the angle was off.

OP has yet to respond, but sounds like he just needs a better slider. mitersaw. Marc


I agree. RAS's are a better slider - mitersaw. Mine has about 13" crosscut capacity and takes up no more depth than a SCMS with the same capacity. Even a Kapex won't cut any better. I paid $175 for my RAS. You get so much more saw for you money with these old RAS's that no one seems to want anymore.

John

[Marc Jeske]

Not an old green 9"-10" Dewalt, but maybe ok...

N of Pittsburgh, Beaver County - $80 Marc

https://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/tls/d/delta-radial-arm-saw/6294827645.html

[Ted Reischl]

Just going to toss this in, something to think about.

Inherent accuracy is a function of setting up a tool. Rarely is any tool properly set up out of the box.

In the process of cutting pieces off square one edge must be straight or the cut off is not going to be square. I have seen plenty of guys attempt to cut off a piece with a bow in it and then expect the machine to make up for their stupidity. They announce "This machine is a POS!" Uh huh.

One other thing, and it usually happens with the guy I mentioned above is manhandling the machine. Pushing it as fast as it can possible go. Think about it, no matter what you use, radial arm, chop saw, sliding miter that blade is not supported past the arbor and it can flex when pushed too hard. The reason it goes oh so much better on a TS is that with sled or miter gage one has to slow down. Though I have seen guys go ape with that too.

Just something to think about.

[Justin Ludwig]

I know jack and squat about the kobalt. Local pawn shops and Craigslist are a source for used good saws. You'll find plenty of threads on here regarding dewalt and others and their accuracy.

[Peter Kelly]

If you're willing to drive up Route 1 to Broomall, someone is selling a Festool CT Midi & Kapex combo for $1,100 on Philadelphia CL.

Smokin' deal imo.

[Jim Dwight]

I use a Hitachi 12 inch non-slider for most cross cuts and an old Ryobi RAS for wider ones. The Hitachi is more accurate and easier to use. Both will work on a 24 inch deep counter top. Sliders tend to be less accurate than non-sliders and need more space.

[Andy Bryant]

I'll bet you can true up your saw. I've had my Bosch for close to 10 years and only had to true it up on the day I brought it home. I check it every few years and it's still true blue. CL is the place to find them "inexpensively". Mine is the sliding type. I've read a few comments about the newer articulating ones deflecting on some cuts.

[Marc Jeske]

Yes, certainly Clist can be great... as long as you buy one from the fastidious Old Man that had it sitting on his bench, , and NOT one from the 24 yr old Carp that had it rolling around his truck bed w the beer can emptys. Marc

[Marc Jeske]

Also, of course.. full kerf blade will usually deviate less. Marc

[William Chain]

Thanks for all the input folks. I’ve been working to square up the saw, tweaking the fence. I’m close. I’ll see how much closer I can get and see if it holds the setting. I might also move the laser to the other side of the blade if I manage to get this thing totally dialed.

I do have an old iron RAS and it likes to drift one of of its axes but if I check it every time I’m In the shop I can get close.

If I can’t get any closer, replacement might be on the horizon. I saw the CL listing for the kapex but $1100 isn’t on the table right now.

[John TenEyck]

Thanks for all the input folks. I’ve been working to square up the saw, tweaking the fence. I’m close. I’ll see how much closer I can get and see if it holds the setting. I might also move the laser to the other side of the blade if I manage to get this thing totally dialed.

I do have an old iron RAS and it likes to drift one of of its axes but if I check it every time I’m In the shop I can get close.

If I can’t get any closer, replacement might be on the horizon. I saw the CL listing for the kapex but $1100 isn’t on the table right now.


Spend some time figuring out why your RAS drifts. They aren't very complicated. Drift is often due to bad bearings in the motor or bearings that need to be snugged in the arm/carriage. Mine stays perfect for months/years between needing a minor tune-up.

John

[Roy Turbett]

I'm with Brad. If you don't need portability, an old RAS will be more accurate, more versatile, likely have more capacity, and cost a whole lot less than a quality sliding miter saw. Old Dewalts and Deltas show up regularly around me for less than $500. My Dewalt and I were born in the same year, 1954 and, unlike me, has lost none of its capabilities.

John

+1 My $150 vintage DeWalt GWI is much more accurate and versatile than my $600 10" Bosch dual bevel SCMS. The only advantage of the SCMS is portability.