dyeing poplar

[Mike Walsh]

I was thinking about trying to dye a poplar bowl using Transtint (powder). From what I've read, it seems that using water as a solvent makes the dye easier to work as it dries slower than alcohol. Have also read varying opinions on whether or not to seal before dyeing with shellac, friction polish etc. Any thoughts/recommendations?

Thanks,
Mike

[Bob Bergstrom]

Try it on a scrap piece sanded to the same grit. I would think popular would soak up a lot of stain in the entrain if the wood is not seal. If there no figure, then I would diffidently seal it. I use a lot of alcohol dye and have not had problems. The wood will be the determining factor, not the dye.

[Marvin Hasenak]

The technique you use will be determined by the results you trying to get. I have never use Transtint so I have no direct idea of how it works. But I only use alcohol based dyes. One is Fiebings alcohol based leather dye, the other is a bird toy dye that is Isopropyl alcohol based.

A good source of info about dye techniques are the smoking pipemakers. They may not have invented dyeing wood, but they have mastered the techniques.

[Stan Calow]

alcohol = non grain raising, if thats a concern.

[John Keeton]

I was thinking about trying to dye a poplar bowl using Transtint (powder). From what I've read, it seems that using water as a solvent makes the dye easier to work as it dries slower than alcohol. Have also read varying opinions on whether or not to seal before dyeing with shellac, friction polish etc. Any thoughts/recommendations?

Thanks,
MikeThe powder dyes are Transfast instead of Transtint. They are different and the Transtint is generally a bit more lightfast - http://homesteadfinishingproducts.com/resources/dye-faq/.

Poplar can dye very well, but the end grain will darken. If you decide to seal with shellac prior to dyeing, I would dilute it and then sand it back with 400. That will remove much of it from the long/face grain, but leave more in the end grain providing a more even application.

[Jim Silva]

I dye around 200 pieces a year although poplar isn't one of my go-to species. Transtint is my dye of choice.
The carrier I use (water or alcohol) depends on the size and/or method of application.

Regardless of carrier I ALWAYS spray the piece down with water to pre-raise the grain, wait about 1/2 hour and re-sand with 320 (and above if applicable) before applying dye. That much grain to raise and deal with after dye either way.

Larger pieces that I'm either applying a single color or doing a sunburst/wash/ fade with I'll use water. It has a longer working time that results in less aggressive lap marks that will occur. (Pre-wetting the piece can help with lap marks also)
I'll have a bowl of plain water standing by and a 600 grit equivalent (light grey for 3M brand) scotch brite pad on hand to scrub blend those areas.

Detail coloring, airbrush applications or small pieces I'll often use a 50/50 alcohol/water carrier as it will have less bleed from running if I'm making color bands or following grain contours.

Because of the pre-raising of the grain beforehand, sanding after dye is minimal (and with the afore mentioned scotch brite pad) to return to smooth ready for finish.
Oh, and I seal everything afterward with de-waxed shellac. (can seal lightly before or between colors as JK mentioned above)

Jim

[Mike Walsh]

thanks for all of the advice & suggestions. i went with the alcohol for solvent and think it came out ok - will post some pictures shortly