My first (and probably last) drink from the green well

[Mike Dowell]

DISCLAIMER: This is more or less a rant.

A little over a year ago, I purchased my first Festool - a TS55 track saw. I have only used this saw about 7 or 8 times since then. The second time I used it, it bogged down cutting through some 1" pine stock - I know, weird... Anyhow, since then, the TS55 has never impressed me. I buy the most expensive tools for my shop because I don't want problems, but this tool just doesn't measure up. My PM2000 and Ceros impress me(for reference). Anyway, fast forward to last week. I was trimming a rustic table top to size, and the top was made from 100 year old Poplar which is 7/8" thick. The saw bogged down, and then quit running. I called Festool and spoke to their tech department. The guy first asked which blade I was using, to which I replied "the one you shipped the saw with", and I read off the part number. He asks how long the board was, and I told him 7ft. At this point, I could only describe the next part of the story as a fountain of B.S. spewing from his mouth. He first tells me that this is the wrong blade. Then, he proceeds to tell me that with this blade, I can only rip 4ft or so of stock, and that I need -wait for it.....- a different blade! Yep, I need a 12 tooth ripping blade for any rip over 4ft long. After that, he then tells me that the saw has a thermal overload protector, and that it shut itself off by design. He says that in 15 minutes, it will come back on. Well, it had already been almost an hour, so I plugged it in, while on the phone, and nothing. He tells me to plug it into a different receptacle(like I'm an idiot), and so I did - nothing. At this point, he informs me that the motor must be burned up. OK, well so much for a "thermal overload protector". While he's giving me instructions to send the saw in for repairs, he mentions that.... OK, this one is going to BLOW your minds. He proceeds to tell me that "you should never have this plugged into and extension cord if you want full power. It must be plugged directly into the wall outlet". HOLY SMOKES FOLKS! Well, there you have it Ladies and Gentlemen. Be sure not to plug your portable circular saw into an extension cord. Are you serious? Are you kidding me? Alright. Now it's time to be completely fair. Let's just saw that I rewire my entire shop so that there is a receptacle every 12 inches around the perimeter of the room. What do you suppose those yellow romex wires have in common with extension cords? They're both just wire? The hell you say.

OK, I'm going to take a breath.

So, I ended up finishing the table using my $60 refurbished Hitachi Circular saw(with original blade from 5 years ago), plugged into an extension cord. If that isn't pathetic enough, allow me to inject this anecdote into the story. 6 Months ago, I replaced my kitchen floor with hardwood. To get rid of the multiple layers of subfloor and linoleum, I went to Home Depot and purchased a throwaway saw. I bought a $39 Ryobi corded circular saw. Then(with an extension cord) I sliced my kitchen floor, cutting through staples and cleats, from left to right over and over until I had 1ft thick strips. Then, I cut them the other direction, essentially making 1ftx3ft strips of flooring which I could pull up and discard. The saw was literally smoking at times as I rammed it through the nails. I never ended up throwing the saw away, because it still works fine.

On the other hand, I have a $660 "best tool money can buy", and it has to have a special blade to cut poplar and can't be plugged into an extension cord. Why did I buy this saw again?

OK, my rant is done. I'm ready for the support of those who have had bad Festool experiences, as well as the thrashing from the loyal Festool enthusiasts.:)

[Mike Cutler]

Mike

Hopefully when you get it back it works properly. It sounds as if it never was working correctly.
There is an element of truth to the extension cord part of your rant, but it's not just as simple as the tech rep was detailing. If an extension cord is undersized, awg
, or too long, it's amapacity ability to carry current, is diminished. and the apparent voltage at the end of the extension cord will be less than the beginning. Translation the device being used, your saw, could potentially see a lower voltage, and higher current, to operate. You would have had to have a pretty light duty extension cord for this t have had an effect.
That being said, I still think something was wrong with your TS55 from the beginning. I had my TS75 plugged into a 100', 10awg, extension cord to cut panels and 2x10's for a run in shed for horses in the paddock and it never caused me any problems. We were out there for a couple of days. ( I don't buy my tools to baby them. They can see some extremes during use.)

As I said, I hope everything works better when you get it back. Tools break, even the best of them.

I do like the 4' cut limit part of the story. I'll have to use it on my wife.

Cut 4', have a beer.
Cut 4', have a beer.
"But honey, that's what they said I was supposed to do" ;)

[Mike Dowell]

Mike

Hopefully when you get it back it works properly. It sounds as if it never was working correctly.
There is an element of truth to the extension cord part of your rant, but it's not just as simple as the tech rep was detailing. If an extension cord is undersized, awg
, or too long, it's amapacity ability to carry current, is diminished. and the apparent voltage at the end of the extension cord will be less than the beginning. Translation the device being used, your saw, could potentially see a lower voltage, and higher current, to operate. You would have had to have a pretty light duty extension cord for this t have had an effect.
That being said, I still think something was wrong with your TS55 from the beginning. I had my TS75 plugged into a 100', 10awg, extension cord to cut panels and 2x10's for a run in shed for horses in the paddock and it never caused me any problems. We were out there for a couple of days. ( I don't buy my tools to baby them. They can see some extremes during use.)

As I said, I hope everything works better when you get it back.

I do like the 4' cut limit part of the story. I'll have to use it on my wife.

Cut 4', have a beer.
Cut 4' have a beer.
"But honey, that's what they said I was supposed to do" ;)

That last part was funny. I do understand the part about the extension cord, but I think the tech guy should have been more specific, because making a blanket statement as he did, is idiotic. I have wondered if this saw ever worked properly to begin with myself. I have heard folks getting the ts75, but that's because the 55 would bog down on 8 quarter Rock Maple or something. This thing bogs on everything - except 3/8" plywood.

[Darcy Warner]

The 48t blade it comes with is not a blade made for ripping solid stock, it's a ply sand cross cut blade.

[Robert Engel]

Sorry about your experience. It sure does sound like BS. Was the wood burning? That would also tell you you're using the wrong blade. I've build a lot of cabinets with just a circ saw and homemade guide with 0 problems so I've never bought a track saw for the exact reason it will spend 90% of its life on a shelf. Too expensive a tool for that IMO.

My 2¢ worth I have no problem buying the best tools for a job but for the life of me I can't think of anything so special about a tool that I would spend $6-800 for a router or $1500 for a miter saw.

The only Festool tool I would buy is a Domino. I prefer to spend my money on nice lumber.

[Tom Levy]

Not defending Festool, I own none and that won't likely ever change. But you do need the correct blade for what you are attempting. Reading the following or a similar guide will likely be helpful to your future projects.

http://www.rockler.com/skill-builders/measuring-and-cutting/saw-blade-101

[Joshua Bass]

You need the right blade for the job. Lots of reviews have stated the TS55 is not as powerful as the competing track saws (Makita/Dewalt/etc), but it is more refined in other areas. I have one, and I do feel it slow down trying to rip thicker stock.

Also, ripping pine can be a problem as it usually has a lot of stress and can pinch the blade.

[Mike Dowell]

The 48t blade it comes with is not a blade made for ripping solid stock, it's a ply sand cross cut blade.

Well, I hear you, but I only use one blade on my other circ saw, and it isn't a rip blade either. It's also very dull after all the use it has had, but it sliced right through the Poplar. You have certain expectations when you buy "the best" tools.

[Bernie May]

Pinch the blade? It has a riving knife on it to prevent that. I have both Festool circular saws. Both work great. One is just bigger and heavier. I think the poster got a lemon.

[Mike Dowell]

Sorry about your experience. It sure does sound like BS. Was the wood burning? That would also tell you you're using the wrong blade. I've build a lot of cabinets with just a circ saw and homemade guide with 0 problems so I've never bought a track saw for the exact reason it will spend 90% of its life on a shelf. Too expensive a tool for that IMO.

My 2¢ worth I have no problem buying the best tools for a job but for the life of me I can't think of anything so special about a tool that I would spend $6-800 for a router or $1500 for a miter saw.

The only Festool tool I would buy is a Domino. I prefer to spend my money on nice lumber.

No, the wood did not burn, to answer your question. I'm going to have to agree with you on not buying stuff that sits on the shelf. I must admit though, that I'm sort of a tool enthusiast, and if money allows(which it did at that time), I like knowing that everything on my shelf is on the 'top shelf' - just a thing with me. I've replaced all of my tools with high end stuff. Well, my drill press and edge sander are made by JET, and they are OK. Definitely higher quality than a lot of stuff, but they aren't super high end.

[Mike Dowell]

Pinch the blade? It has a riving knife on it to prevent that. I have both Festool circular saws. Both work great. One is just bigger and heavier. I think the poster got a lemon.

I'm going to have to start subscribing to this theory. I would say that it is "nice" to have different blades for different jobs, but with high end equipment, that shouldn't be necessary. I needed to rip an inch off this table top, so that comes down to 14' of 7/8" Poplar. I just honestly believe that is not asking very much of a $600 saw with what was basically a brand new blade. I realize tooth count comes in handy, but this was a quick task and should have been done in 2 minutes. On my PM2000 I use one blade for 90% of my cuts. It's a 50 tooth combo atb from Carbide Processors. That saw will rip 8 quarter maple without even breaking a sweat. One day, if I get into more building, I will likely buy a dedicated rip blade which I'm sure would be even more impressive.

[Mike Dowell]

Guess we will just have to see what comes back to me from their work shop. Before I sell this saw, how can I determine if it is in fact a lemon? I don't want to pass a known problem on to a fellow unsuspecting woodworker. For those of you with this saw, what can I do to test if the performance I'm getting is what I should be getting?

[Darcy Warner]

Well, I hear you, but I only use one blade on my other circ saw, and it isn't a rip blade either. It's also very dull after all the use it has had, but it sliced right through the Poplar. You have certain expectations when you buy "the best" tools.

Ok, but it's 48t on a 6" blade. I use the universal blade for ripping with mine most of the time, sometimes the 12t. No issues in anything up to its limits. I have a 9 year old ts55 and and 4 year old ts55r. I am not ripping lumber on my 9hp TS with a 100t blade, I prefer the right blade for the task at hand.

[Edwin Santos]

Ok, but it's 48t on a 6" blade. I use the universal blade for ripping with mine most of the time, sometimes the 12t. No issues in anything up to its limits. I have a 9 year old ts55 and and 4 year old ts55r. I am not ripping lumber on my 9hp TS with a 100t blade, I prefer the right blade for the task at hand.

I see your frustration, but I'm with Darcy on this. I don't have your particular saw, but I do have the Makita version. It can "seem" under powered like it's bogging down if I defy physics and try to rip hardwood with the supplied 48T finishing blade. That's why I sprang for the Freud 28T and 14T. I predict if you get an appropriate blade and try the same ripping job, it will seem like your saw is 3x more powerful.

Try this - see what would happen if you try to rip the same old growth 7/8" poplar at your PM2000 with an 80 or 96 tooth finishing blade. The experiment would simulate exactly what you were doing with the track saw.

[Mike Dowell]

I just now realized that you said you use the Universal blade, not the one that came with the saw. So you are talking about a 28 tooth. My comment below is deprecated.


I use the universal blade for ripping with mine most of the time, sometimes the 12t. No issues in anything up to its limits. I have a 9 year old ts55 This, I think further solidifies the possibility of my TS55 being a lemon.

[Mike Dowell]

I see your frustration, but I'm with Darcy on this. I don't have your particular saw, but I do have the Makita version. It can "seem" under powered like it's bogging down if I try to rip hardwood with the supplied 48T finishing blade. That's why I sprang for the Freud 28T and 14T. I predict if you get an appropriate blade and try the same ripping job, it will seem like your saw is 3x more powerful.

Try this - see what would happen if you try to rip the same old growth 7/8" poplar at your PM2000 with an 80 or 96 tooth finishing blade. The experiment would simulate exactly what you're doing with the track saw.

I guess you're making the argument that my comparison is apples and oranges. I'll buy that for dollar. Well, I'll see what they say when I get thew saw back. They received it Monday of this week, and the tech guy told me they would have it for 3 days max. So, I expect that it shipped back out today, which will hopefully put it back here Saturday, or Monday. If I decide to get a ripping blade for this unit, which do you recommend?

[Edwin Santos]

I guess you're making the argument that my comparison is apples and oranges. I'll buy that for dollar. Well, I'll see what they say when I get thew saw back. They received it Monday of this week, and the tech guy told me they would have it for 3 days max. So, I expect that it shipped back out today, which will hopefully put it back here Saturday, or Monday. If I decide to get a ripping blade for this unit, which do you recommend?

Consider the Freud 14T, designed for your saw. Mine was about $25 on Amazon. Please report back on what happens if you do because it would be interesting to know. The in-between combo equivalent blade might be the Freud 28T which I tend to use for rip cutting denser sheet products like 19mm Baltic Birch or trimming doors. Good luck, I hope it sorts out and you get some satisfaction out of this tool Mike.

[Mike Cutler]

If I decide to get a ripping blade for this unit, which do you recommend?

Mike

Festool has a rip blade for the saw, it's called Panther. I would just look at the specs of that blade
There are more than a few manufacturers for blades to fit Festool, so you're not limited to spending $80+ bucks on a blade, and only being able to get one from Festool. ;)

BTW
I've accidentally had the wrong blade in my TS75. It still worked. Just not as well. It didn't do what yours was doing and I was ripping 2" thick padauk. Much harder than poplar.

[Rob Damon]

My two cents:

Festool products in my opinion are more precision grade as oppose to contractor grade.

The motor on the Festool is multi-speed unlike single speed contractor saws (think milwaukee, etc.) Electronically controlled motors are more sensitive than single speed motors. The motor will ramp up as the load increases to maintain the same RPM and it has electronic braking. It is a different animal than the standard contractor grade saw of the past. (one speed controlled by on/off switch.)

Couple of questions folks should consider when using a Festool Track saw or any Festool product:

Was the saw being used plugged into a dust collector or plugged directly into the wall in all cases? (The dust collector already has a long cord on it and will reduce the voltage to the saw if an additional extension cord is used. Even if you plug directly into the wall with an extension, you need to keep in mind it can draw up to 1200watts.)

What was the gauge of the extension cord you were using? NEC notes 2% voltage drop for feeders and 3% voltage drop for branch circuits. If you then plug the saw into a 14 gauge x 100' extension cord you are going to have 4.7 % voltage drop just on the extension cord alone.

What was the length of the extension cord you were using? The longer the cord the higher the voltage drop.

What was the speed setting on the saw? If you are ripping wood you should be at the highest speed.

What was the distance of the blade extension below the work piece? If the blade just barely clears the wood, more of the teeth will be in contact with the wood, putting more stress on the motor. If the blade extends farther down, the less teeth will be in contact with the wood. This is a different concept than a contractor saw in that in most cases the blade on a contractor saw is always kept fully extended in real world use. The festool track saw is normally adjusted for the depth of the material, putting more teeth in contact with the wood as oppose to a contractor saw.

What type of blade are you using? If you are ripping, use a ripping blade, if you are crosscutting use a crosscutting blade. Would you use a crosscut handsaw to rip an 8' long board? NO. Can you use a crosscut handsaw if you are only going to rip cut a short distance, sure, but if you have to make a lot of cuts, you will switch to the rip handsaw pretty quickly.

Also, I a mentioned above this is a precision saw that give near splitter free cuts and great dust collection (when used with the vac). Precision cuts are made slower and not like blasting through the cut like a carpenter would do with cutting a 2x10.

It also seems the blades gum up quicker, so regular cleaning of the blade is a must.

I have had my TS-55 for over 7 years and it still works great. But I listen to the tools. If they are bogging down, there is a reason for it. If I want to cut with out any bogging down in any condition, I would use a worm gear circular saw, but the finish of the cut will be vastly different (worse.)

As far as using the same blade on the PM2000 (which I also have been using for the past 10 years) you are missing out if you have only been using one style blade. You really should have several (RIP, Crosscut, Plywood/Melamine). You will notice the difference.

By saying a $600 saw should do everything great, would be like saying a $1M Ferrari should be able to go fast and be able to pull a 20,000 lb trailer for that kind of money.

Good luck.

[Tom Levy]

I'm going to have to start subscribing to this theory. I would say that it is "nice" to have different blades for different jobs, but with high end equipment, that shouldn't be necessary....

No amount of money spent on tools will allow you to avoid the basic physics of how the tools work. I'd highly suggest reading a guide on types of saw blades and how saw blades work. The other blades on your cheaper circular saws are mid-range tooth count general purpose combination blade vs. the high quality crosscut/ply blade that came with your tracksaw. If you want to test it, take some veneer ply and make cuts with both tracksaw and your circular saw. You'll find the difference.

If you spend the time to understand how the tools work and how to use them correctly you could do more without buying/replacing everything you own with "top shelf" versions.

The analogy I think applies best would be someone buying a range rover, but refusing to get snow tires or chains and then complaining when they slide into a ditch in a snowstorm.

[Patrick Kane]

I have the TS75 and never have a problem with it bogging down. I cut 1.5-1.75"(milled 8/4) almost exclusively with it. My first thought i the blade isnt aligned properly. You dont report burning on either side of the cut, right? That throws that theory out. From everything we know, sorta sounds like a lemon, but who knows.

As far as the blades go, that is incorrect. I would rather have a 1.5hp contractor saw with 3 high quality forrest blades versus a 5hp sawstop with one blade. Blade design and quality are of paramount importance.

[John Lanciani]

[QUOTE=Mike Dowell;2731032} I would say that it is "nice" to have different blades for different jobs, but with high end equipment, that shouldn't be necessary... I just honestly believe that is not asking very much of a $600 saw ...[/QUOTE]

This is a rediculous comment. High end or low end is irrelevant to your problem, you were using the wrong blade for the task, regardless of how expensive or new it was. All the saw does is spin the blade, the blade does all the work.

[glenn bradley]

Pinch the blade? It has a riving knife on it to prevent that. I have both Festool circular saws. Both work great. One is just bigger and heavier. I think the poster got a lemon.


I'm going to have to start subscribing to this theory.

Believe me, it happens. I was never impressed with my Forrest WWII. Everyone (including folks who I respect the opinions of) loved them. Mine just never worked anywhere as good as my Freud's or Amana's. I tossed it in with a batch going out for sharpening and it worked as good as any of my upper end blades when it got back.

Lesson learned, when things aren't doing what you think they should, call the maker right off. Don't wait a year and grouse about the thing like I did. Give them a chance to make it right early on.

[Victor Robinson]

3 somewhat ordinary things will make the saw bog down. I have experienced all of them on my TS55 over the years:

1) A dull/dirty blade

2) Too many blade teeth for the application. If you plan on ripping a lot of solid lumber, definitely add a 28T (also good for fast non-finish plywood cutting e.g. sheathing, subfloors, etc.), if not a 14T to your kit. Freud makes good quality, cheaper-than-Festool blades. Oshlun makes even cheaper blades that are fine for infrequent use.

3) Long extension cords

That being said, Festool does certainly set itself up for this kind of expectation/dissatisfaction paradigm with the premium price they charge. I hope you're able to get the problem resolved and find peace with the saw. ;)

[Nick Decker]

Like the OP, I find it unreasonable that Festool said that a portable saw should only be plugged into a wall outlet. Specify a certain gauge extension cord, fine, but only a wall outlet?

[Mike Cutler]

Like the OP, I find it unreasonable that Festool said that a portable saw should only be plugged into a wall outlet. Specify a certain gauge extension cord, fine, but only a wall outlet?

Nick

It's probably tied to some type of liability, or legal stuff. My air compressor stated that it had to be "hardwired" into a dedicated circuit, or the warranty would be void.
It's had a 25', 10AWG, SOOW cord, and a plug on it since day one.

[Paul K. Johnson]

The first time I saw Festool, I honestly thought that they were tools for rich people who want nice, expensive tools in a beautiful shop but never build anything. I didn't think any real woodworkers would shell out the kind of money they're asking.

I've since learned that I was obviously wrong about that. I don't own any and at this point don't have an attitude about them one way or another.

Anyway, I was really just going to make a comment about extension cords. I just use heavy (low gauge) cords and don't worry about it. I haven't noticed any kind of power loss using an extension cord vs. not using one.

[Larry Frank]

So sad...

I have had my TS55 for years now with no problems. I have ripped with it and used an extension cord but a 10 or 12 gauge cord. No problems. The main use for it for me is cutting down plywood and it is great.

[peter gagliardi]

I own many, many Festool tools. The one thing that is almost universally true about them, is that they are underpowered compared to almost anything else mainstream. But they have other pluses- dust extraction for working inside finished homes is a big one for me.
The saw you have, their 12,15, and 18v cordless drills, and the kapex, are the real problem tools in my shop for this. They are good tools, but they just don't have quite enough oomph.
That is why is is extremely imperative you use the right blade, and a good power source. You cannot push these tools, you just have to let them work at their own pace.
Their sanders, along with their mid sized router are definite exceptions. These, in my mind are the best tools they make.
Use the right blade, and then determine if it is worth keeping.

[Ralph Okonieski]

I've had the TS55 for many years now. It was used to rip 8/4 rough oak. I did use a rip blade and it was very slow but never stopped. The crosscut blade was used at times to rip 4/4 oak when it was inconvenient to change blades. The saw is underpowered, no doubt, but it never stopped for me.

Sorry you had a bad experience. I would be severely disappointed with your experience as well. Hopefully, the repair will provide a more positive experience.

[Jim Becker]

I also believe that it was a defective saw--mine has never behaved badly like that, but agree with the blade advise. I don't agree with the "don't use an extension cord" thing, but will say that it's an electrical fact that extension cords should always be as short as practical and also be sized appropriate for the length to avoid power issues when the amperage draw goes up under load.

[Mike Dowell]

I also believe that it was a defective saw--mine has never behaved badly like that, but agree with the blade advise. I don't agree with the "don't use an extension cord" thing, but will say that it's an electrical fact that extension cords should always be as short as practical and also be sized appropriate for the length to avoid power issues when the amperage draw goes up under load.

Well, I've taken a lot of lashings here over the blade thing. So, I will buy a couple more blades.

[Mike Cutler]

Well, I've taken a lot of lashings here over the blade thing. So, I will buy a couple more blades.

Mike

You're not the first person to use the wrong blade, and you definitely will not be the last. It also won't be last time you use the wrong blade, even though the correct one is hanging on the wall. BTDT.;)
As I stated earlier, I did the same thing, and I have three dedicated Festool blades. Rip, Crosscut and ply.:o

I also maintain that the blade was not your only issue.

[Lloyd McKinlay]

Lee Valley still has their special buy 15' 12 gauge cord at $8.50. I have a couple and another couple on the way.

[Patrick Curry]

I would have expected the supplied blade to cut that poplar. Like others said, something is wrong with that saw.
If you have a set of calipers, you might check the front and rear edges of the blade- distance between the blade and a fixed part of the saw that aligns with the track.
i have a Makita track saw and it's proven useful. It might be a tad bit more powerful than your TS55 but these cute shouldn't be a problem with a stock blade.

[Dominik Dudkiewicz]

I also believe the saw must have been defective. I did over-heat mine once, whilst trying to trim a 30 ft length of decking from 1 1/2" thick blackbutt which is about the same hardness as your Mesquite and about twice as hard as black walnut, with the blade that came with the saw. It actually got about 15 ft through before it stopped. 15min later it was fine. I switched to a cheap bosch ripping blade and it went through the rest like butter.

[Justin Ludwig]

This entire thread could have been avoided if you used the proper blade to begin with. Cutting material with this saw is no different than using a table saw, band saw, or any cutting tool that has teeth. The physics remain consistent.

I've had to use my TS55 on jobsites before to rip a straight edge with their stock blade. I made light passes and made it through just fine.

Your rant is equivalent to hearing guys complain that a trim router spinning at 22000rpm with an old HSS bit keeps burning the maple. :face palm:

[Cary Falk]

There is something wrong with your saw. Popular is 1/2 the hardness of Birch. Baltic birch plywood is layers of birch with glue. A lot of people cut Baltic birch plywood with the TS55. We are talking 7/8" popular not 2" hard maple. The saw should have cut it with ease no matter what the blade. If you couldn't cut pine there is an issue. You can cut that with a spoon. You are right in expecting more out of Festool. I'm not a Festool hater, I have a Domino.

[Jim Becker]

Well, I've taken a lot of lashings here over the blade thing. So, I will buy a couple more blades.

It may very sell seem like that...sometimes folks get a bit "passionate" in their responses. But just like with our bigger, stationary machinery, the right blade for the job can make a big difference. The OEM blade on the Festool saws is generally best for sheet goods and other light general cutting. The tooth count and grind is optimized for that purpose. It's not the best for rip cuts in solid stock when the thickness increases and it's definitely not efficient for general carpentry "rougher" cutting. I actually still use my 1979 vintage orange circular saw for that kind of thing... LOL

I'd actually be curious about what the OEM supplied blade is for the newer, construction focused saws that Festool recently brought out, given it's aimed at different work than the original track saws... I don't know if anyone here has purchased one of those, however, and can comment.

[Mike Dowell]

**update** - The saw has returned to me.

Well, I can't be sure what makes one of these a "lemon". But, unless it is the armature and bearings, pretty sure it's more of the same.
368740

[Tom Levy]

Look on the bright side, rip blades are cheaper than crosscut!

[Ted Phillips]

My first, and probably only Festool purchase...

https://s3.amazonaws.com/cdn.hartvilletool.com/images/uploads/4896_10006_popup.jpg

[Jebediah Eckert]

Mike, in any event you need to change your avatar :D

I don’t know the answer and can’t be of any help. I’m just floored how many are sure your using it wrong, the blade is wrong, the cord is wrong, technique is wrong etc etc. How can ANY circular saw, with any blade, with 100’ extension cord, not complete that task? Maybe not do it well, or fast, but get it done? We are talking about a heavy 3/4” piece of poplar.

My vote would have to be a rare defective saw, how can it not be? People love those saws, something isn’t right.

You have only used it a half dozen times in a couple of years. Try it once when it comes back “as is” and see if it meets expectations. If not you have it back factory approved and ready to go and sell it to somebody who knows how to use it, has all the right blades, and doesn’t own an extension cord for 80% of what you paid new. Take that money and buy that Lie Nielsen shooting plane, it won’t dissappoint. Change your avatar to that, done.

Your gut has to be telling you it shouldn’t be this complicated.

[Mike Cutler]

**update** - The saw has returned to me.

Well, I can't be sure what makes one of these a "lemon". But, unless it is the armature and bearings, pretty sure it's more of the same.
368740


Mike

Did they replace anything?
The armature is pretty much the guts of any circular saw.

[Jacob Mac]

Did you get your saw back? What did Festool say was wrong?

[Brian Holcombe]

Used with the hardwood blade, this is one pass (not multiple cuts)

https://brianholcombewoodworker.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/09/img_8335.jpg

[phil harold]

**update** - The saw has returned to me.

Well, I can't be sure what makes one of these a "lemon". But, unless it is the armature and bearings, pretty sure it's more of the same.
368740
Dont get me on how our kapex dies every 6 - 8 months

[Dan Rude]

Well, I recently found the AvE on You tube did this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oezp-_DcUgg on the Festool T55. He definitely does an interesting review. Dan

[Cary Falk]

Well, I recently found the AvE on You tube did this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oezp-_DcUgg on the Festool T55. He definitely does an interesting review. Dan

Those videos have been floating around several forums for years. Like everything else, The Festool lovers say he doesn't understanding engineering. The Festool haters say that's why they don't own one. The conversation goes nowhere as usual.

[glenn bradley]

Those videos have been floating around several forums for years. Like everything else, The Festool lovers say he doesn't understanding engineering. The Festool haters say that's why they don't own one. The conservation goes nowhere as usual.

Amen. It is the internet, after all ;-)

[Mike Cutler]

Used with the hardwood blade, this is one pass (not multiple cuts)

https://brianholcombewoodworker.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/09/img_8335.jpg

Brian

What is a "hardwood blade"? :o

[Brian Holcombe]

Better stated it is the ripping blade, 12 Tooth. Works great. The saw does seem overstretched by ripping solid woods with the 48t, even woods thinner than 3/4". I typically use this blade for all ripping (regardless of thickness) and use the 48t for cross cutting under 1"~ and for plywood.

[Brian Holcombe]

Btw Festool has always struck me as being the mobile cabinetshop moreso than anything else. I use it in the shop becuase I like the quality of dust collection and the relatively quieter tools, but they have always seemed to prioritize those things over ultimate power with exception to a few tools geared toward timber work.

My shop is in my home and so quiet is important, if that means I have to be very careful about how I cut them I do so. For instance when crosscutting 8/4 white oak with the Kapex I will take a scoring pass or two before completing the cut. Why overstretch the tool? I know I didn't buy a 10hp table saw when I bought the Kapex.

[Ken Combs]

The first thing I noticed on the Festool document, well after the Armature/Bearings anyway, was the alignment line item. If that was not just a check, but an adjustment, that could account for the issue. A blade not aligned with the direction of travel/guide rail would be a real issue. Kind of like a table saw with the blade not parallel with the fence and/or the table slot.

[Mike Cutler]

Better stated it is the ripping blade, 12 Tooth. Works great. The saw does seem overstretched by ripping solid woods with the 48t, even woods thinner than 3/4". I typically use this blade for all ripping (regardless of thickness) and use the 48t for cross cutting under 1"~ and for plywood.

Brian

That's what I thought. It's a fairly aggressive blade.

[Bill Serino]

All I want to say though its been said is that proper blades make all the difference in the world.

I put a "plywood" blade on my worm drive thinking it would just melt through the ply I was cutting. It was an 80t or 90t blade. Having only ever used standard 24t and maybe a 44t on it over the years (rough framing) I mistakenly thought this "plywood" blade held some magical properties...

I made one very agonizingly slow cut and I can't even remember the quality of the cut. Didn't care, it was for a work bench. Put my GP blade back on and went back to work.

Same deal with trying to resaw with a 3/8" 6-8tpi blade over a 1/2" 3tpi blade. The difference is night and day.


That Makita may not be as pretty or as "finished" but it can cut damn near anything.

[Julie Moriarty]

Then, he proceeds to tell me that with this blade, I can only rip 4ft or so of stock, and that I need -wait for it.....- a different blade! Yep, I need a 12 tooth ripping blade for any rip over 4ft long...

OK, so bear with me, Mike, if I seem dumb. Was he saying the saw with the stock blade is only rated for ripping 48" of 7/8" lumber before the motor goes into overload? Forgive me for being dumbfounded, but I'm an electrician and I've worked with motors and wires and overloads since Nixon was in office.

I realize the average extension cord is 16AWG and maybe that's why the CS dude was cautioning against extension cords. Maybe they have been told to tell everyone NO EXTENSION CORDS!!! so someone doesn't run 200' of 16AWG to their wood shed and plug in a $660 track saw and expect it to work.

But the idea any CS agent comes up with a particular distance a saw is allowed to be run is pretty.....

Oh, never mind.

BTW, I had the same saw as you and returned it within the 30 day NQA time. I ended up buying a Dewalt. It struggled through 5/4 hard maple. I bought a Freud rip blade and it was smooth as butter. FWIW, the Dewalt, with a 4' and 8' track was $660.

[andrew whicker]

Just out of curiosity, shouldn't a track saw come with a generic ripping blade? Or is the blade supplied for plywood?

[Larry Edgerton]

I bought a TS75, someone at the factory put in too long of a stud in the anti splinter deally, first plunge the blade hit the bolt. They sent me a new saw, blade and track. Still, I bought it for a job and had to wait.

My 125 electronic sander lasted 6 months, just made a funny noise. Sent it in several months ago and have not heard a word yet, need to call.

Domino works all right, but has some annoying features like the fence step. Should be a scale with an adjuster like on the Dewalt Biscuit joiner. I don't do things with standard thicknesses so am always having to fiddle because no scale.

I own a few more, and I find them to be gimmicky, stuff that gets in the way. I do like the little suitcase vac I have mounted on the ceiling, cool little unit.

[Jim Becker]

Just out of curiosity, shouldn't a track saw come with a generic ripping blade? Or is the blade supplied for plywood?
Given that the likely majority use for track-saws overall is for working with sheet goods, it's not surprising that a blade provided by a track-saw manufacturer would also likely be something more suited to that purpose than for ripping solid stock. Festool for sure takes that approach with the default blade while offering other blade options for other purposes. (there are also third party blades available that are compatible) They may supply a different blade with the new construction focused saw/track combos, but I haven't checked the specifications.

Even my 1970s era orange B&D circular saw rarely was ever asked to do any ripping of solid stock and the blades I've used are more general purpose/cross-cut oriented. Again, I haven't researched it, but rip-optimized blades for hand-held circular saws in general are likely much slimmer pickings than the general purpose and sheet stock focused options.

[Dave Sabo]

A couple of points not mentioned already:

the service tech didn't tell you not to use an extension cord - only that if you want "full power" a direct connection is preferred. You can read all about voltage drop here on the creek.


"you should never have this plugged into and extension cord if you want full power. It must be plugged directly into the wall outlet".

- 100 yr old poplar is going to be much harder than new birch.

- The hitachi saw you mention has 600 more watts of power than the festool. That ain't hay. Coupled with the fact that the standard blade for it is a 24t , and it's easy to see why that cut better than the festool. It was better suited to the job.

- re: a lemon. It's possible. You burnt up the motor, period. Using it incorrectly certainly contributed to that. I'd be more concerned that the electronics didn't work as advertised.

Burnt motor = new armature. New armature gets new bearings from anyone seasoned in their replacement. The alignment was worrisome, could have been from the factory that way which isn't good.


I would say that it is "nice" to have different blades for different jobs, but with high end equipment, that shouldn't be necessary.

With more experience you'll learn this is often not the case. Big ol Italian bandsaws are popular around here, especially for cutting veneers. They are high end and expensive. But if you put a 6-10 tpi blade on one and try to slice veneer you'll have problems and won't like the results. And. it'll have nothing to do with the saw. Try crosscutting or cutting a curve with a blade suited for veneers and you'll also have a disaster. Not the saw's fault.

[Randy Heinemann]

Read most of this whole thread and didn’t see a post from the OP as to the result of sending it to Festool. As long as there was no apparent abuse I can’t imagine Festool doing anything but repairing it. Did I miss the result? Usually tools are back in 2 weeks.

[Dave Sabo]

Read most of this whole thread and didn’t see a post from the OP as to the result of sending it to Festool. As long as there was no apparent abuse I can’t imagine Festool doing anything but repairing it. Did I miss the result? Usually tools are back in 2 weeks.


see post # 40 :)

[roger wiegand]

While I love my TS55 for its accuracy, precision, dust collection, and use it a lot, I too was (and still am) severely disappointed at its lack of power. It seems one shouldn't have to baby the saw through cuts in 3/4" plywood, which is what I find I have to do. My ancient PC saw, which sold new for about $129 will go through plywood just as fast as I can push it with a plywood blade mounted. I don't think it's too much to ask that a $650 saw be equipped with a big enough motor to do the same, even if it is a snazzy green. I'm pretty sure that cutting sheet goods with the stock blade must be something it should have been engineered for. I'd be happier if it cost $700 and I didn't have to wait for it to catch it's breath all the time-- I'm the old guy, after all!

[David Cramer]

While I love my TS55 for its accuracy, precision, dust collection, and use it a lot, I too was (and still am) severely disappointed at its lack of power. It seems one shouldn't have to baby the saw through cuts in 3/4" plywood, which is what I find I have to do. My ancient PC saw, which sold new for about $129 will go through plywood just as fast as I can push it with a plywood blade mounted. I don't think it's too much to ask that a $650 saw be equipped with a big enough motor to do the same, even if it is a snazzy green. I'm pretty sure that cutting sheet goods with the stock blade must be something it should have been engineered for. I'd be happier if it cost $700 and I didn't have to wait for it to catch it's breath all the time-- I'm the old guy, after all!

I'll probably get ripped for posting this, but I've made cabinets on site with an 8 foot straight piece of phenolic material and my DeWalt circular saw. Zero issues, ever. Clamps and you're good to go. That's one tool where I'd put my money elsewhere. Just one guys opinion:)

David

[Frank Pratt]

I'll probably get ripped for posting this, but I've made cabinets on site with an 8 foot straight piece of phenolic material and my DeWalt circular saw. Zero issues, ever. Clamps and you're good to go. That's one tool where I'd put my money elsewhere. Just one guys opinion:)

David

My opinion exactly, but that's just for me. I read about how some people love them so much & start to think I need one. But then the next time I use my cordless Milwaukee saw & shop made straight edge I realize that it works just fine. For the cost of a TS55 & all the tracks, clamps, etc, I could be well on my way to upgrading to an 8" jointer, a Domino, or some other more essential tool.

[Randy Heinemann]

see post # 40 :)

Don't see the result anywhere and I've counted all the posts. Doesn't seem to be at 40. No matter anyway. Everyone is entitled to their opinions. I've never had a single problem with Festool or their service department.

[mark mcfarlane]

**update** - The saw has returned to me.

Well, I can't be sure what makes one of these a "lemon". But, unless it is the armature and bearings, pretty sure it's more of the same.
368740

This was post #40. Attachment shows what Festool did to resolve the problem. No need to count them, just look for the post # in the upper right corner of each post.

FWIW, I doubt any TS55 owners, such as myself, wouldn't like a little more power in the saw.

[Eric Commarato]

sounds like a $39.00 Skill saw from HD would out-perform the Festool you have. I don't drink from the Festool fountain either...

[Matt Kievit]

I remember the time I replaced my $25,000 all-wheel-drive Jeep Grand Cherokee with a $120,000 rear-wheel-drive 560HP BMW M5 with high performance tires. And when I wrecked it, all I could think was, that when I spend that much on something, I shouldn't have to put new tires on it to make it drive well on ice and 2 feet of snow....

[David Kumm]

I remember the time I replaced my $25,000 all-wheel-drive Jeep Grand Cherokee with a $120,000 rear-wheel-drive 560HP BMW M5 with high performance tires. And when I wrecked it, all I could think was, that when I spend that much on something, I shouldn't have to put new tires on it to make it drive well on ice and 2 feet of snow....

probably should have hired someone to drive it. dave

[Ben Rivel]

I remember the time I replaced my $25,000 all-wheel-drive Jeep Grand Cherokee with a $120,000 rear-wheel-drive 560HP BMW M5 with high performance tires. And when I wrecked it, all I could think was, that when I spend that much on something, I shouldn't have to put new tires on it to make it drive well on ice and 2 feet of snow....
You bought a Jeep Grand Cherokee for $25K?! Not brand new right?

[Jim Becker]

You bought a Jeep Grand Cherokee for $25K?! Not brand new right?
Not in recent years, at least. My original one back in the 1990s was probably in that range...my current one, well...and it's a 2012...stickered for $53K. Same thing for MY18 would sticker for close to $60K. But we digress... ;)

[Larry Edgerton]

I'll probably get ripped for posting this, but I've made cabinets on site with an 8 foot straight piece of phenolic material and my DeWalt circular saw. Zero issues, ever. Clamps and you're good to go. That's one tool where I'd put my money elsewhere. Just one guys opinion:)

David

I used to feel the same way but decided to try a TS75. I did a lot of work the way you described but I have to say that the track saw is handy. Actually it is mostly the track. I would make a phenolic base for an old 8 1/4" Speedmatic I have and just buy the track if I had to do it over again. The cut of the Festool is good, but not any better than the Speedmatic.

[Edwin Santos]

I'll probably get ripped for posting this, but I've made cabinets on site with an 8 foot straight piece of phenolic material and my DeWalt circular saw. Zero issues, ever. Clamps and you're good to go. That's one tool where I'd put my money elsewhere. Just one guys opinion:)

David
How's the dust situation with that set up? Seriously, I did the same as you for years, and you're quite right, no issues with quality of cut or performance. I upgraded to a track saw mainly because the dust collection is so good and if you're working in the field (or even in the shop) in enclosed conditions, keeping dust down can be an important factor.

[David Cramer]

How's the dust situation with that set up? Seriously, I did the same as you for years, and you're quite right, no issues with quality of cut or performance. I upgraded to a track saw mainly because the dust collection is so good and if you're working in the field (or even in the shop) in enclosed conditions, keeping dust down can be an important factor.


Hi Edwin

I just use the Fein Vacuum. I think it's the original one, not the Fein II.

I've had it for a long time, no issues at all. The vacuum that keeps on sucking and won't die, ever:). I rigged a little box behind with the hose in the back. It works great. In someone's house, I'd be cutting in the garage or basement...but have never had an issue with dust spewing all over the place. I made the box out of luan and put a magnet on the bottom of the box to attach it to the saw base. The dust go right in. I don't think I'm a genius or overly bright, but I learned a thing or two in the last 15 years---how to attach "this or that" to something to get the desired outcome;)

There a lot of people on this site with some serious cash, that's not me (I'm in the middle). For me to spend that much money, I have to ask myself if I really need it or is there another way to do it and save the cash for the item that I can't do without.

Example: I posted about the DeWalt cordless tablesaw at Home Depot (I don't think anyone responded). I bought it for $350 clearanced at my particular Home Depot. They even threw in an extra battery. Some would say why? I've been on more than one job where the power goes out and I can't cut filler strips or toe kicks. It sucks big time and has costed me the time of leaving and having to come back.

My point, that saw and the price I paid justified the purchase 3 times already since I bought it. The track saw and the price of it simply aren't justified for my particular position. Not trying to go on and on, but I sincerely hope that makes sense...even though you only asked about dust collection;)

David

[Jerry Olexa]

AS said before: Sigh and go have a BEER,,,,

[Edwin Santos]

Hi Edwin

I just use the Fein Vacuum. I think it's the original one, not the Fein II.

I've had it for a long time, no issues at all. The vacuum that keeps on sucking and won't die, ever:). I rigged a little box behind with the hose in the back. It works great. In someone's house, I'd be cutting in the garage or basement...but have never had an issue with dust spewing all over the place. I made the box out of luan and put a magnet on the bottom of the box to attach it to the saw base. The dust go right in. I don't think I'm a genius or overly bright, but I learned a thing or two in the last 15 years---how to attach "this or that" to something to get the desired outcome;)

There a lot of people on this site with some serious cash, that's not me (I'm in the middle). For me to spend that much money, I have to ask myself if I really need it or is there another way to do it and save the cash for the item that I can't do without.

Example: I posted about the DeWalt cordless tablesaw at Home Depot (I don't think anyone responded). I bought it for $350 clearanced at my particular Home Depot. They even threw in an extra battery. Some would say why? I've been on more than one job where the power goes out and I can't cut filler strips or toe kicks. It sucks big time and has costed me the time of leaving and having to come back.

My point, that saw and the price I paid justified the purchase 3 times already since I bought it. The track saw and the price of it simply aren't justified for my particular position. Not trying to go on and on, but I sincerely hope that makes sense...even though you only asked about dust collection;)

David
David,
I like your practical thinking! Track saws are very nice, and I think the Makita I bought is a good tool, but it's no more accurate than the inexpensive DeWalt circular saw and the home made saw guide I used for many years. If I had had your ingenuity I might have rigged up a dust collection solution like you did and never bought a track saw.

[Jim Dwight]

I use a DeWalt track saw and have never used anything but a 48 tooth blade on it. It's motor pulls 12A, I think the 55 pulls 9A, might be 10A. But a bit less. I've cut construction lumber with my DeWalt with the stock blade with zero problems. It was plugged into an extension cord. I've also ripped well over 4 feet in hardwood, oak, with the same setup with no issues. If I had to slow down cutting 2 inch hardwood, I would get the rip blade, probably Freud. But no reputable tool in good condition with any blade should bog down in 1 inch softwood (including poplar which is technically a hardwood). Sounds like an issue with the tool, which Festool should have said from the start.

I see this experience as related but skip it if you do not. My table saw is a Ryobi BT3100. I've ripped over 3 inches in hardwood with it. But only with a clean ripping blade. With the 50 tooth Freud combination blade it normally wears, it will require a very slow cut and still will probably trip a breaker or the thermal overload on the saw. But with a clean and sharp ripping blade, it does fine. Despite the 15A universal motor.

So I understand the blade arguments. But I respectfully totally disagree that they apply to ripping 1 inch softwood. Any decent tool should do that.

Last point, price is generally a decent indicator of which tool is best but not always. Festool track saws have track options not available for other saws and I have no doubt their blade change setup is far better than the DeWalt but I'm still not sure the Festool is the best tool in this category. I read the reviews, then decide for myself.

[Eric Keller]

if this thread was good for anything, I realized the reason my Porter Cable circular saw is so horrible at cutting is that it has a finishing blade on it. Why they would sell a carpentry tool with a finishing blade, I don't know. I mean, a 24 tooth blade has got to be cheaper than a 48 tooth blade, doesn't it? Anyway, I got a new blade for it yesterday, I'm sure that will help its performance quite a bit.

[Vinito Caleb]

This guy's not a rocket surgeon, but he's funny and does a thorough look-see of that exact saw:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oezp-_DcUgg (Part 1)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Mo2L_jFKmc (Part 2)

[Larry Edgerton]

What exactly is a rocket surgeon?

[jack forsberg]

What exactly is a rocket surgeon?
Larry a rocket surgeon is a brain surgeon that works on the brains of Rocket scientists . It’s a bit of a one up From saying there not a “rocket scientist” or that it’s not “brain surgery” . Your going to love “Fabracobel”

[Josh Kocher]

If you are looking for a slick blade change setup, the Mafell MT55 is a cinch vs. the Festool... best of all the track saws IMO...

BTW - with stock 48 tooth blade, plugged into a vacuum - up to 2" hardwood, construction lumber, sheet goods are all a cinch, as fast as I want to push through it...

[John Sanford]

Extension cords.... sigh.

Just save yourselves grief. Never get anything smaller than 12g for tool use. Heck, I'll opt for 10g if I can. 100ft of 10g will handle ANY portable power tool. Is it more expensive? Yes. Is it heavier and takes up more space? Yes. But if the smoke escapes from your tool, it won't be the cord's fault.

[Bill Graham]

Well, I've taken a lot of lashings here over the blade thing. So, I will buy a couple more blades.

The thing most people that buy the TS55 miss is that it's basically a 6" circ saw that pulls only 10 amps. It doesn't have a lot of torque so blade choice is critical if you're going to be using the saw for anything other than what it was designed for: cutting sheet goods up to 3/4" thick and the occasional short plunge rip into installed flooring. It doesn't have the muscle to power through tasks like ripping hardwood with a general-purpose blade that your average 15 amp 7-1/4 circ saw wouldn't balk at.

Obviously there was something wrong with your saw, it should have kicked the protection and reset after it cooled down. Forget that BS about only plugging it into an outlet, the saw only pulls 10 amps and comes with an 18-gauge cord set. According to the manual you should be safe running it on a 25' 16AWG extension cord or a 12AWG cord at 50'. Which is just common sense, anyway(or it should be). Interestingly, the manual for my OF2200 15A router says I can run it at 50' on a 14AWG cord and 100' on 12 AWG. But my TS75 manual(a 13A tool) says the same as the 10A TS55. Consistency doesn't seem to be a major concern at Festool, does it?

Anyway, I'm glad to hear Festool took care of you(hopefully) and you've realized that you need to match the blade to the work if you want to use it as an all-around tool. It's really a nice saw when used with their track system, I've been whaling away with mine on sheet goods for 7 years now with no problems. But I have a Makita 5007 for when I want to rip 8/4 slabs or build houses. Horses for courses, one size doesn't fit all, etc..

Best,
Bill

P.S. Please don't think of this post as a "thrashing from the loyal Festool enthusiasts". Festool is just another tool manufacturer and, like all of them they have their diamonds and their stones. I have a lot of their tools, the track saw and the Domino are definitely diamonds. Except for the OF2200, the routers are stones for what you mostly use a router for. But if you combine the OF1010 with their LR32 system for Euro cabinets you get a diamond. I've never been a fan of their sanders, I prefer my Mirkas but the Granat paper is nice in the lower grits. I like my Fein and Mirka vacs a lot more than the CTs, they aren't appreciably quieter but the noise from them doesn't have the annoying edge that the Festool vacs have. I've not used their cordless tools, my Makitas work fine at half the price and they all use the same battery. I like the MFT, wouldn't part with it.

I guess I'm saying that I really like some of their products, could take or leave others and consider some overpriced junk. Pretty much what I think of any tool manufacturer.

[Julie Moriarty]

The thing most people that buy the TS55 miss is that it's basically a 6" circ saw that pulls only 10 amps.
FWIW, Fine Woodworking did a tool test on track saws. They gave the top award to Mafell and Festool 75, in a tie, citing the Festool 55 bogged down in some of the tests.

Freud makes narrow kerf blades designed for Festool, which is slightly smaller in diameter that what you find in Dewalt's TS. I bought three of the Freud blades for my Dewalt and they allow the saw to handle jobs more easily than the stock blade. Maybe Festool TS owners will find the same.

[Jebediah Eckert]

**update** - The saw has returned to me.

Well, I can't be sure what makes one of these a "lemon". But, unless it is the armature and bearings, pretty sure it's more of the same.
368740

Mike, have you had a chance to try it since it has been back? If so did the repairs do the trick or are you chalking it up to blade choice, or something else?

[Matt Lau]

Hmmmm....now, I don't feel any regret for my Makita Tracksaw--it's more beefy than my Sawstop JSS.
While I currently have a bunch of systainers, the only festool stuff I have is:
-MFT systainer (mdf top).
-1 festool clamp
-Used Festool ct36 hepa...i don't like it as much as my Fein or Nilfisk because of the high pitched whine.
But stacking systainers on it is nice. I'll likely make my own boom arm...wood.