Moving/transporting a 15" planer

[John Pariseau]

I am exploring all options here - I'm getting two estimates from movers to put the planer on my trailer, but am trying to figure out whether or not I can do it myself.

Here's the planer:

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4371/36632659434_8fdce1466b_c.jpg

The owner estimates it is somewhere between 300 and 500lbs. Any guesstimates for a 15" x 8" planer? 3HP motor if that helps. I'd remove the accessory rollers on either side.

My trailer is this one:

http://www.ot-trailers.com/images/super/Utility2large_2.jpg

The owner of the planer suggested laying it flat, with two 4x4s on either side of the belt guard. The oil-filled gearbox is on the other side.

Thoughts?

[John Pariseau]

If I could safely tip it on its side against my ramp/gate, I could winch it up and into the trailer bed.

[Geoff Crimmins]

I had to move a Grizzly planer of similar design. I removed the infeed and outfeed tables as well as the belt guard and belts. I rolled the planer up behind my truck and then removed the bolts holding the planer to the base. Then a friend and I lifted the planer into the bed of the truck. It was kind of heavy but we managed to do it. Then we put the base into the back of the truck and tied everything down so it wouldn't slide around. The black sliding rods in the planer are handles for lifting it. If you want to put the planer in your trailer you might be able to lift it with an engine hoist and then back your trailer under it. Then strap it down with plenty of straps. You also might be able to put plywood over the ramp and pull the planer up with a come-a-long. You'd probably want a couple of friends to help guide it and ensure it doesn't tip over. I wouldn't try to tip it on its side without some kind of hoist to support it.

--Geoff

[Mike Cutler]

Doubtful that you can do it alone without an engine hoist. Two big guys, maybe. A furniture dolly would work also, but you'll need at least a little help.
The planer is going to weigh 500lbs.

Me personally, I wouldn't lay it down. I'd strap it to a furniture dolly, pull it up into the trailer, and leave it upright. You'll have to get rid of the mobile cart it's on though. You may need something to cover that open ramp on the trailer.
Lower the planer bed onto some 2" foam board, and strap it to all four corners of the trailer with ratcheting tie downs, with it still on the dolly. Take the roller beds off also. Those bars extending out, believe it or not, are to lift it up. I think getting it off that mobile cart is the biggest obstacle you'll need to overcome.

I moved a 900lb commercial washer this way.

Any way to take a friend with you? Or can the seller at least help you a little bit.

[John Pariseau]

Me personally, I wouldn't lay it down. I'd strap it to a furniture dolly, pull it up into the trailer, and leave it upright. You'll have to get rid of the mobile cart it's on though. You may need something to cover that open ramp on the trailer.
Do you think I could strap it to the ramp with the ramp upright? I've done that with lighter equipment, but I'd be worried about side to side movement.


Lower the planer bed onto some 2" foam board, and strap it to all four corners of the trailer with ratcheting tie downs, with it still on the dolly. Take the roller beds off also. Those bars extending out, believe it or not, are to lift it up. I think getting it off that mobile cart is the biggest obstacle you'll need to overcome.
I'm not quite sure I understand. Are you saying put the foam below the bed? And put the straps on top of the bed? Just trying to figure out the configuration.


I moved a 900lb commercial washer this way.

Any way to take a friend with you? Or can the seller at least help you a little bit.
I don't really have any friends that could help - the only one in the right range for helping has back issues.

[John Pariseau]

I had to move a Grizzly planer of similar design. I removed the infeed and outfeed tables as well as the belt guard and belts. I rolled the planer up behind my truck and then removed the bolts holding the planer to the base. Then a friend and I lifted the planer into the bed of the truck. It was kind of heavy but we managed to do it. Then we put the base into the back of the truck and tied everything down so it wouldn't slide around. The black sliding rods in the planer are handles for lifting it. If you want to put the planer in your trailer you might be able to lift it with an engine hoist and then back your trailer under it. Then strap it down with plenty of straps. You also might be able to put plywood over the ramp and pull the planer up with a come-a-long. You'd probably want a couple of friends to help guide it and ensure it doesn't tip over. I wouldn't try to tip it on its side without some kind of hoist to support it.

--Geoff
That's what I wanted to do - slide it into the back of my Element. But the bolts are a bit difficult to reach because of the cabinet below, and I don't really have anyone that could help shift it into the car.

[Mike Cutler]

John

I would lower the planer bed onto foam board, to the point that the foam board is compressed slightly, to protect it from vibration and bouncing around. It's a lot of weight. Don't put any pressure on the bed from a tie down strap. The foam is just to protect the bed. It also lowers the center of gravity during moving.

That's a pretty light duty trailer. Me personally, I would want the weight centered over the axle, or just slightly forward, so that the trailer would be more stable. Putting 500lbs that far behind the axle of a trailer that small could be a problem. Moving it back decreases your tongue weight on the hitch. I would want to know that the weight was on the hitch.
I would run four ratcheting straps from the four posts that support the rollers on top of the machine to the four corners of the trailer. One per each corner. I would then run another strap right over the top to stop it from being able to bounce. This way any movement, or inertia, is mitigated in all three axes. ( Is that the right word for the plural of axis???)

It's easy for me to say this, because I always have this equipment in my truck, and I've been doing it for many years, but I know that it's not easy for folks that don't do it a lot.
There is no shame in hiring a mover to do it for you. Especially if you can't get some help.

[Jared Sankovich]

Buy a Harbor freight engine hoist, you will find lots of uses for it after. I throw mine in the back of my truck when I buy equipment light enough to load in a half ton pickup but too heavy to pick up with 2 people.

368647

[Matt Day]

Agreed on the HF hoist - got mine new for like $175, the 2 ton model. It’d be perfect for this job. You can unbolt the business end from the base which would make it smoother and wouldn’t have to worry about the weight being so high up during transport. I’d much rather buy a useful tool than pay movers.

When I bought mine we kept it together (sans out/in fees rollers) and tilted it down to into the trunk of my Forester and slid it in. It worked but was a bad idea as it’s very top heavy and could easily get away from you.

If I were to do it again, without an engine hoist and my Forester, I’d unbolt the business end from the stand and slide it down into the car, using 2x6’s.

[Bill Dufour]

If you lay that on the nose or tail so the table ends touch anything you risk breaking the table supports. I would only haul it upright or maybe on it's side. Many bandsaws are ruined by lifting from the table
You will have to drain the oil before tilting if the gears are in a oil bath. If it has an oil bath consider adding a short nipple and pipe cap to make future draining neater.
I learned from my brother, a mechanic, that an old tire with no wheel makes a nice pad to set a awkward lump of iron onto in a trailer or truck bed. Think engine blocks.
Bill

[John Pariseau]

It's easy for me to say this, because I always have this equipment in my truck, and I've been doing it for many years, but I know that it's not easy for folks that don't do it a lot.
There is no shame in hiring a mover to do it for you. Especially if you can't get some help.
No - that helps! I'm at a point where I have to minimize how much I spend, and I doubt I can afford to have it delivered an hour away. I'm kind of tempted to get an engine hoist, which would cost just a little more than one quote I got. I wonder what they rent for.

[Mike Cutler]

John

An engine hoist is actually a pretty handy thing to have around. You could probably buy the aluminum version from Harbor freight and Craigslist it when you're done.

[John Pariseau]

John

An engine hoist is actually a pretty handy thing to have around. You could probably buy the aluminum version from Harbor freight and Craigslist it when you're done.
Aluminum version? They have two different models with different ship weights, but neither page mentions the material. However, one is part of a "Tool Disposal Notice" coupon sheet for $179.

[Matt Day]

Is $179 the 2 ton or the 1 ton?
I’ve never seen an aluminum version. The hoist is heavy itself by the way.

[Larry Frank]

They engine hoist is one of the best things I have gotten at HF. I do not use it very often but has really paid for itself. I have used mine several times to put things on a similar trailer. I take the ramp off the trailer when I do it and the hoist legs roll under the trailer.

[John Pariseau]

Is $179 the 2 ton or the 1 ton?
I’ve never seen an aluminum version. The hoist is heavy itself by the way.
179 for the 2-ton.

[Jim Andrew]

A piece of plywood to cover the ramp, a pry bar to get it over the edges, and some straps is how I would handle it. I have moved heavier machines on my tilt bed trailer. Strap it well and you need not lay it down.

[John Pariseau]

So, here are my options:



Have a moving company move it at $98/hr, 3.5h
$150 or $108 to load it onto my trailer for me (two different quotes)
$179 2-ton hoist, plus two lifting straps at $10/ea
$38 overnight rental, plus two lifting straps at $10/ea


I'm leaning towards renting since the lift I can rent comes apart into individual pieces. I don't want to deal with the hassle of selling the unit after I'm done with it, and for the time being I have no space for a lift. By renting the lift, I can then move it on and off the trailer with "ease".

This means I'll have to disassemble the unit, however. I'm a little concerned about how much effort that will take. From looking at the unit and assembly diagrams:

Remove pulley cover
Remove belt
Remove louvered plate from front of base
Unbolt four bolts from machine corners

How likely is it that the four bolts will come off easily?

[John Pariseau]

A piece of plywood to cover the ramp, a pry bar to get it over the edges, and some straps is how I would handle it. I have moved heavier machines on my tilt bed trailer. Strap it well and you need not lay it down.
I'm assuming the casters would have to go? How would you get it off the caster base?

[Chris Hachet]

I would echo the earlier sentiment of disassembling the unit. Bring a strong friend or two. When I move things I like to make sure they are strapped firmly in place and I often use blankets to keep things from clanging around and rubbing against each other.

My preference is to move things inside of vehicles rather than in the open if possible as it cuts down on theft, vandalism, and damage from weather.

I moved a 700 pound lathe this way with the help of my 21 year old daughter, no problems at all.

[Matt Day]

The 4 bolts should come off pretty easily - that’s not a spot prone to corrosion or anything, of which there appears to be none on the machine anyway.

Removing the parts you mentioned is an easy task, don’t let it intimidate you. Unless you have no mechanical skills at all, and if that’s the case you may want to pay someone to do it for you.

[John Pariseau]

The 4 bolts should come off pretty easily - that’s not a spot prone to corrosion or anything, of which there appears to be none on the machine anyway.

Removing the parts you mentioned is an easy task, don’t let it intimidate you. Unless you have no mechanical skills at all, and if that’s the case you may want to pay someone to do it for you.
The machine is in pretty good shape, but the 4 upright screw threads need some grease/lubrication. Most of what's on it is dust/dirt.

I wanted to load it into my Element, but I don't really have anyone who can help me, hence a crane/etc...

I'm pretty mechanical - my only intimidation is having to take it apart in someone else's barn, an hour away from home, and I worry about not bringing enough/the right tools. But, the guy seems to be a nice fellow, I just don't want to hassle him.

[David Tiell]

I agree with the suggestions to separate the top from the base. I moved a 16" Jet planer from Ohio to Maryland in the back of a Saturn SUV that way. It will also make it a little less awkward to handle. And I think renting the engine lift sounds like the right way to go for your circumstance.

Dave

[Jim Andrew]

If you leave the planer on the dolly, put a piece of ply on your ramp, roll the planer up to the ramp. Use a flat pry bar to get the dolly started onto the ramp. Once it has started up the ramp, push it up until the second set of wheels touches the ramp. Use pry bar to get the second set onto the ramp. After the whole dolly is onto the ramp, push the planer up to the floor of the trailer. If it will roll onto the floor, push into the center of the trailer. If not, use pry bar to get it onto the floor. After the planer is in the center of the trailer, raise the ramp, and strap the planer down tightly in both directions. Wrap your straps around the stand of the planer so they can not slide. Use at least 4 straps. You should be able to drive away with the machine on the trailer. Check the straps after you go a short distance, to make sure nothing has come loose. Depending on distance, check straps after you go a mile or 2.

[Matt Day]

You really don’t even need a trailer if you have something like an Element, except I guess you’ll need to haul an engine hoist! The engine hoist should be able to slide under the car and drop the main part of the machine into the car. I’d place a piece of 3/4 ply in there to distribute the weight and protect the car. Strap it down in the car so it doesn’t slide.

If it were me I’d bring the following:
Ratchet/socket set (both metric and standard)
Wrenches
Adjustable wrenches
Channel locks
Screwdrivers
Drill/impact driver
Straps
Gloves


Here’s another idea for loading into your car with some Egyptian/OWWM style moving.

Insert (2) 2x4’s in end into the planer and lower the head into it to tighten them down. Stack some 4x4’s in your car as donnage, and put a pipe on top. The top of pipe should be the same height as the distance between bottom of 2x4 to bottom of main casting. Back your car up to the planer, unbolt the head, pick it up using the 2x4 and push/roll it into the car.

[John Pariseau]

Ok, thank you all for the suggestions. Pickup is Friday late afternoon.

Since I don't have a lot of experience moving heavy equipment on dolly's, I'm a bit concerned about tilting it at any angle to get it up into the trailer.

I'm kind of nervous about this going right, so here is where I'm at:

1) After posting this morning, I got exact cost estimates - they became $220-250 to load it onto my trailer once I gave an address.

2) I went to harbor freight and bought the 2T engine hoist, two lifting straps, four 2" ratchet straps (to augment my smaller 1" straps), and a ratcheted winch. My hope, is that I can return the winch and ratcheting straps, but I might keep the straps since they were cheap and I don't have any that size.

3) I'm going to make a trip to the rental place tomorrow - if the engine hoist looks useable, I will rent it instead and return the harbor freight version. They sent me pictures, and the thing looks like it was left in a bombing range, but the benefit is it is a bit more portable. It is a 1.5T unit, with no specifications about lifting height, hence my "site visit".

I will assemble the winch tomorrow when I get home from work. I looked at the unit at HF, looks like my dolly will be able to get behind it so I can move it on/off the trailer - I'll remove the outriggers and boom extension to reduce the weight.

What did I get myself into??? :D

[Chris Fournier]

A piece of plywood to cover the ramp, a pry bar to get it over the edges, and some straps is how I would handle it. I have moved heavier machines on my tilt bed trailer. Strap it well and you need not lay it down.

This. Make a longer dolly with decent 3" or larger casters and get it done. No big deal just have a plan, have the pieces and do it.

[Mike Spector]

A heavy duty swing set and a chain hoist would make it a 1-man job.

[John Pariseau]

You really don’t even need a trailer if you have something like an Element, except I guess you’ll need to haul an engine hoist! The engine hoist should be able to slide under the car and drop the main part of the machine into the car. I’d place a piece of 3/4 ply in there to distribute the weight and protect the car. Strap it down in the car so it doesn’t slide.

I like this idea - was what I originally wanted to do. It would make getting it into the car really easy, easier than my trailer to be honest. I'm pretty sure the cabinet would fit in the car too, but I'd be fine strapping that to the front corner of the trailer too.


If it were me I’d bring the following:
Ratchet/socket set (both metric and standard)
Wrenches
Adjustable wrenches
Channel locks
Screwdrivers
Drill/impact driver
Straps
Gloves
Thanks! I wasn't going to bring Channel locks or my impact drill, but will now. I like your pipe rolling suggestion, but I would want to experiment first at home before going that route. Since I have the engine hoist (or will rent one), I think this will work.

[Peter Froh]

I put 2 - 2x4 on edge through the bed, raised the bed so that the 2x4s were trapped then had friends help me lift it off my trailer and into my shop. Very slick and lots board to hold for lifting/moving. You might be able to use the 2x4 trick with your engine hoist?

[Mike Cutler]

Ok, thank you all for the suggestions. Pickup is Friday late afternoon.

What did I get myself into??? :D
You got yourself into a new, and fun experience.
Go slow and everything should work out well.

Good luck

[roger wiegand]

That's basically the same as mine, which I've moved several times. Take the DC port and extension tables off, flop it onto its side on a piano dolly and roll it on a ramp onto your trailer. I'd slide it off the dolly at that point. Tie it down thoroughly and you're good to go. As top heavy as it is you'd be asking for trouble to move it upright. These are a beast to move without help.

Or hire a mover-- that's safer for your body, and machine if you find someone competent.

[John Pariseau]

Move moved to Saturday - threat of rain in the morning, and knowing Michigan's weather, I don't trust it to follow the forecast. Plus I was concerned about traffic on the way home (rush hour). Will take pictures and post what I end up doing.

[John Pariseau]

All set! Leaving in a few hours, but this is what I packed:

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4459/37377172192_b38864de41_c.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4468/37377170692_95e737935b_c.jpg

Dolly is to move the crane on/off the trailer. I stored anything removable inside the car, as it lessened the weight and makes it easier to maneuver.

[Mike Cutler]

I think you've got it pretty well covered.
Next time I need to move something heavy, I'm calling you! ;)

[Matt Day]

You look well prepared! Nothing worse than showing up and saying to yourself “I wish I brought X tool with me”. You’re probabaly mobing it right now - make sure to let us know how it went.

[John Pariseau]

Success! I forgot the 2" foam board (of which I have a ton of scrap left over), but I suspect it made the trip without damage. I lowered the bed all the way until it touched the cast iron base. I did get a little help - my brother couldn't go with me, but the owner, his son and one of his friends happened to be conveniently there and helped me guide the planer into the car while it was lifted up.

Some observations:

It has three belts - one was broken (but somehow it was able to plane the test boards). They are marked "M50" - I looked it up, is this pretty much a standard vbelt, or should I bring one in to a lawnmower shop to see if they can match it? Do I replace the other two at the same time?

Ton of mouse droppings inside the chip exhaust area. He said it wasn't used for over 6 years.

Not much rust, but a little in a few places - surface rust where the paint was scraped, a little bit on the bed, and the upright posts. Really light, though, and should be sandable/scotch brightable.

My only concern is how "difficult" it is to crank the height adjustment. It isn't impossible, but requires two hands (remember, I'm a wimp). There is a tension adjuster below the planer for the chain, the screws threads need some light TLC, and there has to be some sort of gear that makes the right angle. So, many moving parts, and it could be any one of them.

I couldn't take any pictures at his place - my hands at that point were greasy, and the goal was to load it and head home.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4499/37385629982_09d2d22378_c.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4443/36706896664_e827151d09_c.jpg

All in all this cost me a total $380 - $200 for the planer, and $180 for the lift, I'm returning the straps as I never opened them up. Oh, and a tank of gas.

[Mike Cutler]

Nice!!!

Transporting the planer in your SUV negated the use of the foam board. Your shocks and springs did a better job any way.

Clean it up, hit it liberally with some WD-40, or Aero Kroil, put a light grease on that chain and bed raise mechanism and you're good to go.
You should probably replace all of the V belts at once. If they've been sitting for 6 years, they're probably dry rotting and have" taken a set", which could induce vibration.
A worm gear makes the right angle transition. It's more than likely part of the casting the hand wheel is attached too. On my Jet, that's what makes the transition.

Well done, and Congrat's on your new planer.

[John Pariseau]

Nice!!!

Transporting the planer in your SUV negated the use of the foam board. Your shocks and springs did a better job any way.

Clean it up, hit it liberally with some WD-40, or Aero Kroil, put a light grease on that chain and bed raise mechanism and you're good to go.
You should probably replace all of the V belts at once. If they've been sitting for 6 years, they're probably dry rotting and have" taken a set", which could induce vibration.
A worm gear makes the right angle transition. It's more than likely part of the casting the hand wheel is attached too. On my Jet, that's what makes the transition.

Well done, and Congrat's on your new planer.
That's what I was hoping - the shocks on my trailer are very springy but too stiff for a smooth ride, and the element (though @200K miles) rides smoothly. I really didn't like the idea of putting it in the trailer.

The chain has a thick goopy grease - yellowish. I don't really know my greases, do I just go to the store and look for something called "light grease"? Should I take apart the gearing by the wheel and clean it out?

I went over the bottom half with a rag before I brought it into the workshop. It was covered in greasy-sawdust. Cleaned up pretty nicely. Both the motor and mfg plate date it to 1990, by a company called "Transpower".

Long term I'm not too sure I'll keep it - the scale of work I plan on doing really fits my DW734, but this should get me through my siding crisis.

[Jim Andrew]

That looks like a great planer, bet you will decide to keep it before you are finished.

[Matt Day]

Nice work, and a great price, and it came with an engine hoist! Glad you were prepared to do it solo, as you couldn’t plan on help.

Re: chain. I’d leave it on, degrease the bejesus out of it, dry it with a rag, spray some lube on it and call it good.

Make sure the two lock knobs on the left side of the planer are loose. They lock the table for planing and if they’re not loose it’ll be hard to move up and down.

Run the table all the way down, clean the exposed parts of the 4 posts with wd40 and a scotch brite, runnthe table up and do the same. Spray some lube and see if that helped.

Also, adjust the bed rollers below the table (they cause nothing but trouble and snipe) and clean and lube the tables with something like Boshield.

[John Pariseau]

Thank's for the tips! Bed lock was loose. I took apart the control handle:

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4404/37174127800_c7842e1d2d_c.jpg

That glob of grease was dried out and stiff - the grease in the gear was still loose. Not too sure if that too should be cleaned and lubed with something lighter? If you have specific product recommendations for the grease, I'd appreciate it.

[John Pariseau]

Ok! I WD-40'd the columns with a scotch brite pad, used some 3-in-1 to lube them. Cleaned the threads with WD-40 as well. Just that alone made the handle easier to turn, I can now move it with two hands on the black handle and not the wheel. Would white lithium grease work well on the upright threads and chain?

[Bill Dufour]

Is the chain you are talking about just for adjustment? if so any light grease would be fine. If it is a drive chain you need better input then I can give.
The bearing shown is shielded not sealed so it is probably full of dust and dry grease. I would dry the sliding surfaces off with thinner, let dry then use a dry lube like graphite spray. Any oil or grease will collect dust and turn into grinding compound.
While you have it apart and clean try to wiggle all the bearings. If you feel any movement they need replacing. This includes bed rollers.
Bill

[John Pariseau]

Is the chain you are talking about just for adjustment? if so any light grease would be fine. If it is a drive chain you need better input then I can give.
The bearing shown is shielded not sealed so it is probably full of dust and dry grease. I would dry the sliding surfaces off with thinner, let dry then use a dry lube like graphite spray. Any oil or grease will collect dust and turn into grinding compound.
While you have it apart and clean try to wiggle all the bearings. If you feel any movement they need replacing. This includes bed rollers.
Bill
Height adjustment chain at the bottom. The owners manual says to use "oil" in the gearbox, but doesn't specify what oil. And to change it yearly. The booklet is light on what I like to call "details".

[Matt Day]

75-90 or 80-90 gear oil, found at local auto supply chains. Make sure to use the search function, as most thing that have to do with 4 post planers have been discussed over and over.

[Bill Dufour]

Be careful on oil in a gearbox. the new gp5 HP or Ep oils are not compatible with yellow metal!
Bill

[cody michael]

where did you pick up the planer from? I'm in michigan also. that planer for $200 is a steal, even at 380 it was a good deal. I bought a grizzly 20 inch. the Previous owner luckily had an engine hoist and put it on my trailer to drive home (about 15 miles) he said it weighed 400lbs. I had my wife, my brother, and my dad we each grabbed one of the lifting poles and picked up. Nothing happened, lol I looked in the manual it was more like 800lbs. luckily I had the trailer backed into the door of my shop. basically just slid it out into my shop, then I used rollers to move it into position.

[John Pariseau]

Found it near Flint. Glad to hear it was a good price - don't get me wrong it needs a bit of work to get running - but it will be worth it. My brother helped me lower it into the lawn tractor trailer with the lift, from there I drove it to the workshop and dragged it out onto a piece of chipboard on the floor. I don't yet have a table strong enough to hold it :P and I need to be able to tip it on its side to get to the lift chain.

As for replacement belts, I found a 3L500 belt on Amazon - amazingly they beat the price of local shops. I called around to a few places too - ended up paying $21. There are some discount V-belt places, but the ground shipping (between $10-12) ended up costing more than the belts!

[Randall J Cox]

I moved a planer just like that. Its one heavy unit - 450 lbs. Took it apart and used a portable engine hoist like others have recommended. Took off motor. Removed top cast iron head part from base (mine was semi enclosed). Randy