Supporting cast member the tablesaw

[Mack Gambrell]

I'm building out my wood turning chop and lm now looking at a tablesaw. Dust collection is good bandsaw is good grinder subpar but good wheels..
my question is
contractor or cabinet saw, being a supporting tool and having a small shop / garage. why do we or do we need a cabinet saw for turning support.
as a beginner im asking what table saw do you have and why. for me its between the powermatic and sawstop

[Fred Belknap]

Seems like more people get hurt with a table saw than any machine in the shop. My advise is the SawStop.

[Allan Ferguson]

If it is basic turnings that you plan to do, bowls and spindles, solid wood. Then a good band saw should do what you need cut out to turn. If you are looking to do turnings made up of glued laminations then a good cabinet saw and a lot more equipment will be needed. For many turners their table saw becomes a costly table .

[John K Jordan]

...my question is contractor or cabinet saw, being a supporting tool and having a small shop / garage. why do we or do we need a cabinet saw for turning support.


Mack,
My opinion is you don't need a cabinet saw. It could be useful if you built cabinets, furniture, etc. For a woodturning shop I think contractors saw should be fine. My shop has flatwood tools but my primary focus is woodturning. Most of my table saw use is to make things for the shop, to occasionally repair or fix something for the house or farm, and to make jigs and things. In practice, I can use the bandsaw, SCMS, and portable saws for all of this and get by without any table saw. Even if I want to cut up large plywood panels I have a tiny Rockwell VersaCut circular saw and clamp a long straight edge to the panel.

However, a table saw would be invaluable in a turning shop if you did segmented turning. This requires precise angles and the table saw can do this extremely well with a simple jig. But again, you don't need a large cabinet saw.

All that said, I personally have a new PM66 cabinet saw with the long fence (will rip 52" if I remember) and a Robland sliding table attachment. This is way overkill for me. I purchased it new 10 years before I built my shop and put it in my storage building (along with an 8" PM jointer, 22-44 drum sander, etc) since I knew that once I built the shop I would be too broke to fill it with tools! I made guesses at the time as to what I might use the shop for. The saw is quite useful on occasion but I could easily get by with a smaller saw. In fact, I think I use a portable 10" saw more than the PM66 around the farm since I can carry it to the job.

I could sell the big saw but it's not hurting anything since I built the shop big enough so it's not in the way. If shopping for a saw today I'd get a smaller one.

Actually, my big saw does serve a useful purpose most of the time - I use the table to set up my photo cube to photograph woodturnings! It does make a good, and as Allan said, costly table! :)

368364

JKJ

[Len Mullin]

Mack, you don't really need a tablesaw for turning purposes, definitely not a cabinet saw. A good quality bandsaw will do everything a tablesaw will do and more, a larger then 14" would be desirable. If you still do decide to purchase a tablesaw, you probably could get away with one of the small Dewalt tablesaws. I've seen other turners using the Dewalt, they thought it was a great saw. If you think a Dewalt wouldn't be large enough, then buy a contractor's type of tablesaw. I owned a cabinet makers tablesaw, I ended up selling it. For me, it was to heavy, I needed a saw I could easily move around because of space. I haven't used my tablesaw for a turning purpose, since I started turning over three years ago. I have used my bandsaw many times, and I wish it was larger then a 14" one. My tablesaw is stuck in the middle of my shop, for a while now it's just been taking up space. Good luck on whichever way you decide to go, a Saw-Stop saw would be a wise purchase if you do decide to buy a tablesaw.
Len

[Art Moore]

I did this in reverse ; started with flat work, and got into turning when the health wouldn't let me do the "big stuff" any more. My Ridgid TS3650 contractor saw has been good enough for the past 14 years. With what I'm doing now, it's a case of overkill. I might even downsize to a Byrnes or Micro Mark saw for precision segmenting.

[David DeCristoforo]

368368
My table saw. Skillsaw screwed to a piece of plywood. Crude but I have done some pretty work with this setup.
Here I'm cutting a hollow in a part for my telescope mount. Plywood strips and a couple of clamps for a rip fence.
Before we had all these cool little portable saws, this was the "go to"!job site setup. I woodworked entire high end
interiors with this as my primary saw.

[Harold Balzonia]

Just FYI and FWIW - there are some super elite turners, i.e. Kyle Toth, who do their segmenting on a chopsaw....

You can also clean segments up pretty easily on a disc sander if necessary.

a table saw is nice to have for a lot of things but if all you primarily want to do is turn, just wait for a while. It's not necessary to have a table saw to get started in turning.

of course if you have $$$$ burning a hole in your pocket, go with a powermatic table saw. That's what I did and I'm the smartest person in the world.... (my daughter told me that once when she was 6 years old and I'm sticking with it...)

spend early money in this hobby on a good lathe, tools, chucks, and sharpening equipment. That will bring you more satisfaction than any tablesaw.... my $.02

[Jack Mincey]

As other posters have pointed out a table saw isn't needed for most Turner's. I do have an old delta cabinet saw in my shop that is used to set stuff on except for once or twice a year when I have to clean it off to work on a flat project. As far as what I would buy if Money was no object it would be the sawstop table saw. As a high school shop teacher for thirty years I used several table saws. We had a saw stop saw at two of the shops I taught at. They where the best table saw of the ones used. One instructor actually made a bone head move that would have caused him serious injury if not for the sawstop. As it turned out the saw worked as advertised and he only had a scratch.
Jack

[Richard Dooling]

I would go with the Saw Stop contractors saw. A guided circular saw can break down sheet goods. I did a lot with the Bosch contractors saw before getting a hybrid, but I still do flat work.

Also, Saw Stop isn't just about the (significant) safety feature. They are very well made.

[Mack Gambrell]

368386My humble beginnings of a shop
I live in Northern California and finding good saws that are on display are few and far between. Segmented turning is definitely in my future (just finished a weggie sled for my bandsaw to get me started)along with maint. on the house. I have a small table saw that's way wornout but still works So I'll take my time and really get a look at the space I have for this tool
thanks for the input. Ill check if any contractor saws run on 230V,my dust collector lathe and bandsaw are all 230V.

[Chris Gunsolley]

368386My humble beginnings of a shop
I live in Northern California and finding good saws that are on display are few and far between. Segmented turning is definitely in my future (just finished a weggie sled for my bandsaw to get me started)along with maint. on the house. I have a small table saw that's way wornout but still works So I'll take my time and really get a look at the space I have for this tool
thanks for the input. Ill check if any contractor saws run on 230V,my dust collector lathe and bandsaw are all 230V.

Nice shop, Mack! Everything you need for cutting blanks and turning right there (with the exception of chainsaws). Love the Powermatics and ESPECIALLY the Walker-Turner drill press! Personally, in my shop is a Walker-Turner 10" cabinet saw, Walker-Turner 8" bench top saw, 16" bandsaw, 14" bandsaw, large floor standing drill press, 6" jointer, and a belt & disc sander. All Walker-Turner. My favorite of all-time, most were made in the 1940's and in perfect working order they are still as good as anything you can buy new today. My lathe is a Powermatic 3520b as well, so we have similar styles.

[Chris Gunsolley]

I also do not believe that you need a cabinet saw for turning. If you do other things, such as build furniture, it may be useful. Like some of the others in this thread, I also built furniture prior to catching the turning bug, and I have 4 table saws in the shop myself. However, if turning were all I were doing, all I would really need are chainsaws, my lathe, and a sharpening station. A bandsaw would be next, but I consider that a luxury as opposed to a necessity because honestly, pretty much every time after I cut my blank out of the log with the chainsaw it's just more efficient to throw her up on the lathe. They're usually too big for the bandsaw anyways, but I realize this issue wouldn't apply to most. (I have too many bandsaws as well--at least 5. I should probably sell all of them except my large Walker-Turner.)

If turning is your priority, the big issue with a table saw is that it takes up a lot of space in the shop that you'll probably end up wanting to use for other things. For example, if you cut your own blanks out of very large logs like I do, it's nice to have an area for determining the placement of your piece in your logs, and if I were you that's what I'd personally do with the space where the table saw would go. I have an area dedicated to taking logs and placing blanks in them, where I keep all of my circular cardboard cut-outs, compasses, scratch awls, etc. for planning the piece within the wood prior to taking the chainsaw to it. The other potential space you might want room for is a finishing area, a nice area for your turning tools and accessories (steady rests, coring systems and knives, various-sized jaws, cole jaws, vacuum chuck systems, etc.), your air compressor which could come in handy for blowing out dust and using pneumatic tools (such as a 90 degree drill for sanding the inside of bowls), your dust collector, and/or perhaps a small photography studio like the one John K Jordan posted. For an exclusively turning shop, I'd rather use any extra space for these purposes than a cabinet saw, and if I were only turning I would never even touch my cabinet saw.

[Reed Gray]

I started off with making furniture, and found a used 2 hp Unisaw. It has done every thing I need. I am building a new shop, and may eventually upgrade. If I do, it will be the Saw Stop. Just the safety feature. I may keep the Unisaw. Other than that, the PM, especially if you can find one of the old green ones....

robo hippy

[Thom Sturgill]

I started wanting to build furniture, decided that was a younger man's game or required a two man shop which I did not want. I had bought a hybrid saw which I still have and it does everything I want even with a 120v motor. I agree with others that I would look at saw stop if buying new. While still a member of the "ten fingers" club, I have had a TS accident and cut into a finger. The hospital bill (even with insurance) was enough to pay for the saw, the slightly jangled nerves on that finger tip are helpful in reminding me about that "one last cut" before taking a break.

[Fred Belknap]

My opinion on contractor saw is from my experience with a Delta contractor saw. I had many issues with accuracy with the contractor saw, some were undoubtedly my fault but after getting a Grizzly cabinet saw many of my problem went away. For segmented work I would suggest a cabinet saw or a combine miter saw(chop saw).

[Kyle Iwamoto]

For many turners their table saw becomes a costly table .

I thought that is why it's called a "table" saw........

I'll agree that a cabinet saw is not needed tor turning purposes, but if you do make other things, then a good table saw is a requirement, (or more expensive sliders) and since a cabinet saw and contractor saw take up the same physical floor space, the dust collection afforded by the cabinet saw is a plus. I do own a 52" 5 horse Sawstop. Awesome saw, if you're thinking of going that way. It really does double as a table, since I am space limited. I put a plywood top on it and bingo! A workbench.

[Richard Dooling]

I thought that is why it's called a "table" saw........

I'll agree that a cabinet saw is not needed tor turning purposes, but if you do make other things, then a good table saw is a requirement, (or more expensive sliders) and since a cabinet saw and contractor saw take up the same physical floor space, the dust collection afforded by the cabinet saw is a plus. I do own a 52" 5 horse Sawstop. Awesome saw, if you're thinking of going that way. It really does double as a table, since I am space limited. I put a plywood top on it and bingo! A workbench.

I generally agree except for the space required by a contractor saw. To me the contractor saw is meant to be portable and while in theory it could have the same footprint as a cabinet saw it is generally a smaller machine with limited capacity. Many also have very functional rolling stands that lend flexibility to small shops. My Bosch had what they call a "gravity rise stand" that let me tilt the saw on end and roll it against the wall.

But you're right - a good cabinet saw is far and away a superior machine in many respects. I like my little hybrid saw but I really miss the PM-66 I had years ago. Of course I also really miss the shop space I had years ago!

[Robert Willing]

I cut the tip off my thumb with a standard table saw, I saw the light and bought a contractor saw stop. I should have done this sooner this was my second accident in two years. Just buy the saw stop!!!!;) Yes you do need a TS for turning or other woodworking!

[Richard Dooling]

Curious - as an owner, what are your feelings about the quality of the Saw Stop?

[Kyle Iwamoto]

Curious - as an owner, what are your feelings about the quality of the Saw Stop?

Not even considering the brake feature, the saw is top notch. I can place a penny on edge on the fence, start the saw, cut wood, turn the saw off, and the penny will stay there. A dime does fall over. It's the best saw I've ever owned or used. Not counting sliders, which is a different class of saw. I do not think the saw will disappoint you. Worth every dollar I spent and I haven't and hope to never trip that brake.