Radial Arm Saw Evaluation/Recommecdation Needed

[Raymond Fries]

I am trying to help my brother find a replacement for a Craftsman that he says is a piece of ####. Well you know.

He is looking at this one (OMGA RN 450) which I am not familiar with. Any thoughts or recommendations are much appreciated. The saw is used in a production environment. Is this a good choice? Anyone have this saw that can offer user experience?

Can be purchased here: http://www.hermance.com/Industrial/New-Machines/OMGA-RN-450-Radial-Arm-Saw


Thanks for your help.

[John TenEyck]

I'm not familiar with OMGA though I know they have a good reputation. But the price is outrageous in my mind. You can find lots of old RAS for a few hundred dollars. I've seen beautiful resto's on here for less than $1K. Even if you have to put a few new bearings in really good saw, as long as the arm is straight and has no defects where the bearings ride and the motor is good, you should be well under $1500 all in.

John

There are 3 on WoodWeb's machinery exchange; two less than $1K. There are so many on C-List within 300 miles of me that I can't count them all; several really nice old Dewalts, all well under $1k.

[Darcy Warner]

Those Omga's are pretty decent, put a few new ones together. Rather have a nice old dewalt, wadkin or danckeart.

[Kevin Perez]

I third the recommendation of getting an old one off Craigslist or otherwise locally. I have a 1950s DeWalt MBF that I love, and had a Delta/Rockwell 12-RAS for a year or so quite a while back. I also used my father-in-law's old, cast iron Craftsman. The Delta was decent, but not as simple to use, and the Craftsman was only so so. The savings from buying one of these used is huge, and they typically only need adjustment which is simple, and possibly bearings/carriage guides which are inexpensive to obtain. There is a company online (maybe in Iowa?) that sells reconditioned DeWalts and their parts. I'd suggest going with a pre-1960 DeWalt; an 8-10" if you have a small shop or a 12" if you have a bigger one; if you have massive space and sufficient wiring, one of the ones like they have at Home Depot for cutting lumber would be stellar.

[Cary Falk]

I say an old Dewalt or old Delta Turret arm. I would love to have a long arm GA but I don't have the space. I have settled for a Dewalt 7790/790. Longest arm travel with a cast iron arm without getting into the large saws. I have passed on many large 14" and 16" saws that hade a 24" crosscut for under $300 just because I don't have the room.

[Darcy Warner]

I just bought another dewalt tonight. Later model round arm B&D dewalt era, 24" cross cut 16" 5hp 3phase. Really nice saw for under 125 bucks.

I lost count, think I am up to 10 or so.

[Warren Lake]

ive seen that brand in some 50 man shops but they are just used as cross cut saws. Dont think ive seen any of the shops do more than rough cut with radials in the break out area. The old guy said he knew one guy that liked and used radials for different things. He didnt give them any time. Like Darcy ive seen them at auctions for 150.00. The Omgas got more sort of 450.00 - 650.00 was offered two for 250.00 each busy at the time but should have got out and scouped one.

[Grant Nill]

I've heard good things about OMGA. You can definitely find good used ones out there. Buying new would be absurd. I echo what the others say about a DeWalt or Delta. I got my 18" 7.5HP 3PH Delta for $350. I only put a 15" blade on due to the cost of an 18". Any of the mentioned ideas will be much better than the Craftsman.

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[Jim OConnor]

OMGA is not in the same category as the saws described. It is an industrial quality machine with a higher powered motor and much better quality bearings. Yes, you can buy any of the saws listed, they aren't the same quality machine. I don't have one, have used two, wish I had one

[John K Jordan]

I am trying to help my brother find a replacement for a Craftsman that he says is ...


I used a 10 Craftsman RAS for years and I thought it was excellent. I had no problems, crosscut, rip, dados, shaper head, drum sander, horizontal drilling. I used it to build a shop, furniture, grandfather clock, lots of things for house and kids.

You didn't mention what problem he had. Maybe his is worn out, broken, a newer junky one, needs alignment, or needs a sharp blade, drilling. Perhaps he just needs some instruction. I don't use mine any more since I have too many tools and not enough room. Anyone who wants to come after it can have it. I think it is a 1970 or so model currently wired for 110v.

JKJ

[Darcy Warner]

OMGA is not in the same category as the saws described. It is an industrial quality machine with a higher powered motor and much better quality bearings. Yes, you can buy any of the saws listed, they aren't the same quality machine. I don't have one, have used two, wish I had one

Their chop saws are very nice, their RAS, meh. They don't come close to an older round arm dewalt, wadkin, unipoint, etc.

[Justin Ludwig]

I own a '95 OMGA RN450. Bought it for $300 on auction. She was well used when I got it. I have it set up for 90* cuts only and cables tied to the wall with cables and turnbuckles (an idea I robbed from another member's picture). It's a 4hp 1~ machine and serves me well. It needs to be rewound, but if I stand on one foot and don't look it directly in the eye, it spins up every time.

If he is buying new, he can't go wrong. I would prefer to be able to spin one up before buying used again. Mine has paid for itself a 10 times over in the 3 years I've owned it.

[Larry Edgerton]

I have an Omga RM 700, replaced a 18" delta with it, Hands down better saw than the old iron. Has served me well for 20 years and never broken. there are 8 bearings in a cross pattern running on replaceable SS ways. a much better system that the conical bearings on the old Delta. I needed the extended reach as well as needed the accuracy, and it did what I wanted.

Comparing a junkyard CL saw to an OMGA just shows a lack of knowledge.

[Darcy Warner]

I have an Omga RM 700, replaced a 18" delta with it, Hands down better saw than the old iron. Has served me well for 20 years and never broken. there are 8 bearings in a cross pattern running on replaceable SS ways. a much better system that the conical bearings on the old Delta. I needed the extended reach as well as needed the accuracy, and it did what I wanted.

Comparing a junkyard CL saw to an OMGA just shows a lack of knowledge.

Ok, sure. Never mind assembling new ones out of the crate and setting them up for people. The chop saws are great, never found anything special with their RAS for me to think they were better or would out last a dewalt, wadkin, unipoint, etc.

[Joe Calhoon]

I have an Omga RM 700, replaced a 18" delta with it, Hands down better saw than the old iron. Has served me well for 20 years and never broken. there are 8 bearings in a cross pattern running on replaceable SS ways. a much better system that the conical bearings on the old Delta. I needed the extended reach as well as needed the accuracy, and it did what I wanted.

Comparing a junkyard CL saw to an OMGA just shows a lack of knowledge.

I had a chance to set up and run a Omga at the shop in Bhutan last year Larry. They are nice saws and while I was there it maintained accuracy. I had a couple old big Dewalts and could never get them accurate enough for joinery work and only used them for rough cutoff.
My favorite radial is the Graule we now have. It cuts as square as our Martin slider and can cut 5 1/2" thick. We use the little Dewalt for rough cutoff to save the blade on the Graule.
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[jack forsberg]

now all you hear over on this side of the pond are the Delta or DeWalts . The better US saws are the Porter and monarch unipoint But the best vintage every made has to the from Thomas White in Scotland .


http://www.woodworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=391665&d=1471781436

http://i982.photobucket.com/albums/ae301/matty355/matty355001/white%20ED377_zpsehfiublj.jpg~original
like joe's saw though these are not RAS there what are callled straight line cross cuts saw . bearing cartage are way wider at least 3 time as wide as a RAS cartage .

White also made a swing type saw (seen German makers with the same ) but with a back arm to keep the blade level with the table for trenching cuts

Stenner made a good saw to with the pivot point right over the fence slit and a dust shoot under the table

https://forum.canadianwoodworking.com/filedata/fetch?id=953537&d=1477257165


as was said the Unipoint is the best american saw but is not a RAS as you can see

http://eidemachinery.com/images/unipoint.jpg

many of the big old clunkers are just not capable of the operation of the typical RAS and can not configure in as many arrangement . This is what the Dewalt is know for. As these saw were around before the claim that they were invented by Dewalt .


and one for Darcy

https://forum.canadianwoodworking.com/filedata/fetch?id=899570&d=1395964718

now i think that all the bad about the old saws is there old and knackered . some like the Delta can be brought back by part replacement but the old dewalts with all those bearing most likely need the arm re-machined to get them up to sniff. the old Delts when rebuilt do cut clean and accurate work


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O-ItjKtCFIg

[Darcy Warner]

Wish I could find a festo.

[John TenEyck]

A very nice looking 10" Rockwell/Delta was just posted in the Classifieds here.

John

[Larry Edgerton]

Nice little saw for the money. Limited reach of cut would be a problem for me, but not most. I bought my OMGA partially because of the 27 inch cut, more than most. That is a small version of the Delta I sold.

[jack forsberg]

Nice little saw for the money. Limited reach of cut would be a problem for me, but not most. I bought my OMGA partially because of the 27 inch cut, more than most. That is a small version of the Delta I sold.
27 is a pretty long cut . My 18 inch Wadkin CC is 30 inch and the reason I like that is because it swings to 60° on one side and still cuts a fairly decent width . But by far what I love the most is it's inch and a quarter spindle with 6 inches under the nut . And of course the huge massive ABEC 5 angular contact bearings. It's basically built like the old direct drive tenoners . Same Motor as the PK that could be special ordered for trenching heads . Carriage bearings are about 24 inches apart if you can believe it . It was actually made in a mobile base option that ran on the railroad track. Some of the old-school trenching heads are terrifyingly beautiful

[John Gulick]

I recently picked up a 50's or 60's vintage Dewalt 9" for $200.00. It's single phase, not tons of power but enough. There are many available up to 16" 5 hp. Can you tell I prefer used? Generally under $1.k, some may require a little work but the older iron has more guts, my .02

[Rick Alexander]

Boy I sure do wish you lived close to me (GA). My dad passed in January and has a late 60's vintage 12 inch Craftsman that cuts every bit as good as my late 40's vintage 14 inch Dewalt - just less power. It's breaking my heart trying to let this thing go so cheap due to the later vintage saws ruining Craftsman's reputation for RAS's. His is certainly one of the good ones - I just don't need it.

As you can see - I'm on the vintage band wagon. Plenty of those old Dewalts out there approaching 100 years old for a reason. If you want a new Dewalt - Original Machine is the modern version of Dewalt - pretty much the same design of mine too. Very expensive however. Turret style is the way to go if you want angles.

[Larry Copas]

some like the Delta can be brought back by part replacement but the old dewalts with all those bearing most likely need the arm re-machined to get them up to sniff. the old Delts when rebuilt do cut clean and accurate work


I brought home a 1954 Dewalt GA with the 24” arm. It was cheap and my thinking was the base would make an interesting shop table. It sat forever and I got a job where I can use it so I decided to restore the thing. The carriage bearings were wore so it was hard to tell how much wear was in the arm. I pulled the arm off and cleaned it up good. Than with good light and a magnifying glass I could see the wear. The saw must have been in a lumber yard cross cutting 2 X 6's its whole life. Wear in the arm was from the column out about 10” than hardly any wear to the end of the arm. Put new bearings on the carriage and adjusted them tight. I've yet to do the final alignment but it may be a saw only suitable for rough work with the arm wear.

From my little experience I think in the field its going to be hard to determine if the saw is good or an anchor.

[Larry Edgerton]

I brought home a 1954 Dewalt GA with the 24” arm. It was cheap and my thinking was the base would make an interesting shop table. It sat forever and I got a job where I can use it so I decided to restore the thing. The carriage bearings were wore so it was hard to tell how much wear was in the arm. I pulled the arm off and cleaned it up good. Than with good light and a magnifying glass I could see the wear. The saw must have been in a lumber yard cross cutting 2 X 6's its whole life. Wear in the arm was from the column out about 10” than hardly any wear to the end of the arm. Put new bearings on the carriage and adjusted them tight. I've yet to do the final alignment but it may be a saw only suitable for rough work with the arm wear.

From my little experience I think in the field its going to be hard to determine if the saw is good or an anchor.

That was the problem with my 18" delta. It was a lumber yard saw, so it had that uneven wear in the casting close to the fence so even with new conical bearings it was tight/loose depending on where it was in the stroke. No one around here could remachine the arm so I bought new. The OMGA has replaceable ways and the bearings have a lot of surface and are quite far apart. So if it ever does get worn I can easily fix.

[Peter Aeschliman]

I just recently bought a 50's Dewalt GA as well. Sadly, I just realized last night as I went to adjust it that it has fairly similar wear to Larry's... There's a little bit of side-to-side play in carriage/motor assembly, and it's coming from the bearings in the arm. There's play for the first half of the stroke, but no play toward teh end of the arm... which can only mean wear to the machined ways. I can't feel any variation or steps in the ways with my fingers, so it's pretty subtle. But I really really wish I had caught this issue before I bought the machine.

I was able to adjust the bearings such that the play is almost imperceptible, but I can still hear it when I hold my ear to the arm and wiggle the motor. I'm hopeful that further adjustment will resolve it, but the only way to remove the slop for the first half of the travel is to make it pretty tight for the last half of the travel. Fingers crossed, because I was really looking forward to having this machine, and I just dropped $500 on it. :(

So, to the OP, while I'm sure it's true that these saws are really accurate assuming they aren't worn, I strongly recommend doing your due diligence before buying one. Inspect the heck out of the ways, making sure there is no play whatsoever... or if there is play, make sure it's consistent along the full travel of the motor.

[Roy Turbett]

The Original Saw Company builds new made in America industrial saws that are based on the old round-arm DeWalt design but with better motors.

[jack forsberg]

I just recently bought a 50's Dewalt GA as well. Sadly, I just realized last night as I went to adjust it that it has fairly similar wear to Larry's... There's a little bit of side-to-side play in carriage/motor assembly, and it's coming from the bearings in the arm. There's play for the first half of the stroke, but no play toward teh end of the arm... which can only mean wear to the machined ways. I can't feel any variation or steps in the ways with my fingers, so it's pretty subtle. But I really really wish I had caught this issue before I bought the machine.

I was able to adjust the bearings such that the play is almost imperceptible, but I can still hear it when I hold my ear to the arm and wiggle the motor. I'm hopeful that further adjustment will resolve it, but the only way to remove the slop for the first half of the travel is to make it pretty tight for the last half of the travel. Fingers crossed, because I was really looking forward to having this machine, and I just dropped $500 on it. :(

So, to the OP, while I'm sure it's true that these saws are really accurate assuming they aren't worn, I strongly recommend doing your due diligence before buying one. Inspect the heck out of the ways, making sure there is no play whatsoever... or if there is play, make sure it's consistent along the full travel of the motor.
This is the reason I never recommended the dewalts . I only recommend the Delta And the Wadkin Bursgreen as they both have drill rod for the Ways that can be rotated to accommodate ware . So it's not a matter of having to find out in the field it's a matter of it being a better design .

[Phillip Gregory]

I am trying to help my brother find a replacement for a Craftsman that he says is a piece of ####. Well you know.

He is looking at this one (OMGA RN 450) which I am not familiar with. Any thoughts or recommendations are much appreciated. The saw is used in a production environment. Is this a good choice? Anyone have this saw that can offer user experience?

Can be purchased here: http://www.hermance.com/Industrial/New-Machines/OMGA-RN-450-Radial-Arm-Saw


Thanks for your help.

The 1950s and some of the early 1960s Craftsman units were not too bad, but the later on ones were/are awful. I have used a late-1970s unit which was not that great and a late-1980s unit which was even worse.

I have never used an OMGA or seen one in person, so I can't offer an opinion beyond others have said they are decent saws.

The old larger Delta turret arm saws as well as the cast iron arm DeWalt saws (round arm GA and GE, and the later square arm Super Duty saws) have an excellent reputation. The Original Saw Company sells new versions of the old DeWalt saws and they are excellent as well, but are every bit as pricey as the OMGA units. The Northfield Unipoint is also a very highly thought of saw and even more expensive than the OMGA or Original Saw Company units.

I would recommend getting an old Delta or DeWalt in good condition. The biggest thing to look for on the DeWalts is the condition of the machined ways in the arm, if the arm is worn unevenly, it would need remachined (doable but $$$.)

I have a 7 1/2 hp 3 phase medium arm DeWalt GE that can take up to a 20" blade if you have the correct guard (otherwise it can take a 16") and can crosscut a one-by piece of stock 27" wide with a 12" blade installed. My saw cost $300 and had not been used all that much after its original arm had been replaced with a different one that had been remachined by Wolfe Machinery in Iowa, so it was an excellent buy and is a very accurate saw.


I've heard good things about OMGA. You can definitely find good used ones out there. Buying new would be absurd. I echo what the others say about a DeWalt or Delta. I got my 18" 7.5HP 3PH Delta for $350. I only put a 15" blade on due to the cost of an 18". Any of the mentioned ideas will be much better than the Craftsman.

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That looks like a CMT 219 15" 100 tooth blade, which is the same one I have on my GE. It is a little thin on the plate thickness but otherwise a nice and very economical blade for these saws.


I just recently bought a 50's Dewalt GA as well. Sadly, I just realized last night as I went to adjust it that it has fairly similar wear to Larry's... There's a little bit of side-to-side play in carriage/motor assembly, and it's coming from the bearings in the arm. There's play for the first half of the stroke, but no play toward teh end of the arm... which can only mean wear to the machined ways. I can't feel any variation or steps in the ways with my fingers, so it's pretty subtle. But I really really wish I had caught this issue before I bought the machine.

I was able to adjust the bearings such that the play is almost imperceptible, but I can still hear it when I hold my ear to the arm and wiggle the motor. I'm hopeful that further adjustment will resolve it, but the only way to remove the slop for the first half of the travel is to make it pretty tight for the last half of the travel. Fingers crossed, because I was really looking forward to having this machine, and I just dropped $500 on it. :(

So, to the OP, while I'm sure it's true that these saws are really accurate assuming they aren't worn, I strongly recommend doing your due diligence before buying one. Inspect the heck out of the ways, making sure there is no play whatsoever... or if there is play, make sure it's consistent along the full travel of the motor.

Make sure the ways are clean and all of the bearings roll before you check the ways. Sticky bearings and built up crud in the ways can make it seem like there are problems that do not exist, and can hide problems that do exist.

[jack forsberg]

guarding on the old saws is not the greatest so i made my own .

https://www.instagram.com/p/BXwIR9DnNKh/?taken-by=jackenglishmachines

I must say I am quite disappointed in regarding the Omga guard as on top as it appears to be similar to the Dewalts old style. They do offer some pneumatic hold downs as options so perhaps that's why .
two other things that I find a little on the light side is that the stand is only stamped metal and the column only a small case base that bolts to it . At least the older deltas had a cast-iron sub base on top of the tin base so that at least there was a foot support further out so saw wouldn't flex the tin . Secondly appears For extended arms no support for the table is given by larger bases and the wooden table simply cantilevers off the front ? They do provide a motor break but any old three phase saw with the VFD can have a break lickety-split . The bearing drill rod and bearing assembly is a time old proven designed and wise of them to adopt . Lastly only the rise and fall of apeers to be upfront and one has to reach behind to make any other adjustments for the saw . It is made in the US though and not too overly priced at five grand

[Andrew J. Coholic]

I have an Omga RM 700, replaced a 18" delta with it, Hands down better saw than the old iron. Has served me well for 20 years and never broken. there are 8 bearings in a cross pattern running on replaceable SS ways. a much better system that the conical bearings on the old Delta. I needed the extended reach as well as needed the accuracy, and it did what I wanted.

Comparing a junkyard CL saw to an OMGA just shows a lack of knowledge.

I also have an RM 700 I bought new in late 2010, and is used daily by the three of us in the shop as both a break out saw and a finish cutting saw for all our solid wood stock (door and drawer components, framing etc.) I bought the saw new when setting up the new shop as I cant be bothered trying to locate anything used in decent shape where I am. Plus I needed to get the shop operational ASAP.

Anyhow, it is a good saw. If one hasn't used one for anything more than a few cuts than how can you reasonably say it's is good or bad? I have just the Maggi 14"/4.5Hp RAS to compare and it was similar. Nice, powerful.

The Omga has a break that stops the 14" blade within a second, rather than winding down for 2 minutes. Very nice feature when you are doing a lot of cutting.

I also have mine set for 9o degree cuts only. With 1/4" steel rod and turnbuckles. Awesome as it stays accurate year round and you cant bump it out of square.

Might not be everyone's first choice but it certainly works for us.

[Justin Ludwig]

I also have mine set for 9o degree cuts only. With 1/4" steel rod and turnbuckles. Awesome as it stays accurate year round and you cant bump it out of square.


I was trying to remember who's idea I stole on the turnbuckles. Thanks, BTW.


Speaking of my RN450, she may have bit the dust today. I'll find out in the morning as I ran out of time to play with it this afternoon before Dad duties took over.

[Peter Aeschliman]

Make sure the ways are clean and all of the bearings roll before you check the ways. Sticky bearings and built up crud in the ways can make it seem like there are problems that do not exist, and can hide problems that do exist.


Unfortunately I did clean the ways completely with acetone and cleaned the bearings off. It wasn't until I cleaned that I noticed the play. sigh. I think it's close enough that it will work for me, but we will see. Such a bummer, but it's on me for not doing my diligence.

[Joe Calhoon]

What I like about the Graule is I can trust it to cut square in both directions without constant checking or adjustment. The stops are positive and every component is heavy built where it counts. The accuracy is possible because head does not swivel for ripping as is typical for most RAS but I would never use this feature anyway. It probably miters in both directions accurately but easier for us to cut any miters on the sliding table saw. It has a large scale for miters but have never tried it.
Biggest drawback to this saw is that it cannot take a dado. Graule makes a trenching saw separately. On the rare occasion we need a cross dado from above I knock the little Dewalt into square and hope for the best.

I think the Omga would shine if you need both trenching and accurate crosscut in one machine. When we toured shops in the U.K. Most were using Omga or similar Italian saws for this. Some had separate trenching saws.
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[Larry Edgerton]

This is the reason I never recommended the dewalts . I only recommend the Delta And the Wadkin Bursgreen as they both have drill rod for the Ways that can be rotated to accommodate ware . So it's not a matter of having to find out in the field it's a matter of it being a better design .

Not all of the Deltas had the rod and concave bearings. My turret saw had concave ways machined into the casting and conical bearings. No easy fix.

[Justin Ludwig]

Speaking of my RN450, she may have bit the dust today.

22yrs old and still spinning like a dusty top. L3 went out on an aftermarket switch. I won't cuss OMGA today.

[jack forsberg]

Not all of the Deltas had the rod and concave bearings. My turret saw had concave ways machined into the casting and conical bearings. No easy fix.


Did not know that Larry. mine is from the 1950s so i just thought they all were . I do use the yoke to rotate the head from time to time and i don't find any play there .

https://www.instagram.com/p/BUAOBA1lL6s/?taken-by=jackenglishmachines

[Larry Edgerton]

Did not know that Larry. mine is from the 1950s so i just thought they all were . I do use the yoke to rotate the head from time to time and i don't find any play there .

https://www.instagram.com/p/BUAOBA1lL6s/?taken-by=jackenglishmachines

I wonder if the rod and concave bearings were a later solution to the problem that I had? Would have been very simple for the factory to add rods to the same machining and change to concave bearings. Mine was OLD. Not sure what year, but when I was a little kid it was in the yard we used, and it was old then.

That yard had common brick walls. Stuck so far in one wall that you could not pull it out was an oak 2x2. The story was that the saw I ended up with put that piece in the brick when a rip job went wrong. They cut it off a bit but left it in the wall as a reminder that the saw was dangerous. I bought a Delta 12/14 at the same auction. Was sad to see the place close down, hometown lumber yard for over 100 years and all. Miss that place.

[jack forsberg]

I wonder if the rod and concave bearings were a later solution to the problem that I had? Would have been very simple for the factory to add rods to the same machining and change to concave bearings. Mine was OLD. Not sure what year, but when I was a little kid it was in the yard we used, and it was old then.

That yard had common brick walls. Stuck so far in one wall that you could not pull it out was an oak 2x2. The story was that the saw I ended up with put that piece in the brick when a rip job went wrong. They cut it off a bit but left it in the wall as a reminder that the saw was dangerous. I bought a Delta 12/14 at the same auction. Was sad to see the place close down, hometown lumber yard for over 100 years and all. Miss that place.

It sure is not the way of the world anymore Larry. The Wadkin Bursgreen have a riving knife for ripping .

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/attachments/f79/119734d1413752737-why-radial-arm-saws-bought-rarely-used-bra.jpg

not that i use mine for ripping . thought it is the only one i have seen with it .

the old way for major operation was a brake down area. lots of material when through daily

here is an old set up with The Wadkin CC and CD cross cut saws. theses are a serious bit of kit

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/attachments/f79/119745d1413762647-why-radial-arm-saws-bought-rarely-used-wadkin-cc-1.jpg

i have the trenching heads for these and there lovely .
http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/attachments/f79/119744d1383485194-why-radial-arm-saws-bought-rarely-used-wadkin-cc-2.jpg


i picked up a few of theses with 4 sets of 18" dado stacks for a few hundred(tooling paid for the lots ) a couple a years ago found all the missing parts for the best one of them and have moved one on to a timber framer.

http://i927.photobucket.com/albums/ad111/tool613/wadkin/unloadcc002_zps03a6a79d.jpg


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jCPq0uBqKsQ