Arch top gate

[Alex Horvath]

Asked about this before, I'm finally starting on it but was not clear on some details...
I’d like to end up with about 1&1/2” door thickness.

Arch top - construct from 1x lumber using lamination to approximate arch then route arc with circle jig. Dry redwood is hard to find these days but I have plenty of dry 1x (3/4") and 2x (1&1/2"). So I’m thinking I may have to laminate 3 1x pieces thick to account for pre/post planing etc.

Field boards – use loose T&G between boards. Where field boards meet stiles/rails should I make ¼” or so T&G? If the fieldboards are ¾” seems like a ¾” route into rails/stiles might leave the edges of rails/stiles a bit weak. Also, for aesthetics seems that it’s a good idea to round over vertical edges of boards.

Someone already warned me regarding the rot dangers of lower grooves but I live in fairly arid area so probably not worth worrying about it.

Thanks

[Eric Schmid]

Another option is to re-saw to 1/4" and bend the laminations over a form. I'd epoxy them. If you are laminating the stiles and straight rails as well, I've had better luck laminating for width rather than thickness. Face grain can be oriented vertically this way (if boards are flat sawn).

If you are using properly sized stiles and rails, the grooves for the field will not compromise strength significantly. I've built some large gates with 3/4" grooves all the way around. You can go shallow on the top of the bottom rail, but I'd go 3/4" on the inside of the stiles and bottom of the upper rail. Leave room for the "panel"to expand into the grooves if the wood is dry.

Seal the grooves before assembly.