Chainsaw Thoughts?

[Mike OMelia]

My old Poulan 18" has seen better days. I could definitely use something with a longer bar. Any body have thoughts on a good consumer/residential chainsaw? (bigger than 18")
Mike

[peter gagliardi]

I have owned 3-4 Husqvarna pro models in years past, but converted to Stihl about 6-8 years ago, and happy I did.

Can't really go wrong with either, but all the tree guys in my area are running Stihl, that told me something.

[Jerome Stanek]

I bought a Blue Max from Home depot 3 years ago and like it I got the combo unit with the 20" and 14" bar and case.

[Mike OMelia]

I have owned 3-4 Husqvarna pro models in years past, but converted to Stihl about 6-8 years ago, and happy I did.

Can't really go wrong with either, but all the tree guys in my area are running Stihl, that told me something.

Lowes sells Husqvarna, and I like buying from them. Something goes wrong, they take care of it. I'm wishing I could buy the model with the 60cc engine and swap out 20" and 24" bars. Is this doable?

[Mike OMelia]

How is he Husqvarna chain tightened? My Poulan has two bolts that are loosened, and a screw that is turned. I have found this to be not terribly effective over time given wear. It slips.

[David Bassett]

I was researching this a while back and two pieces of advice stuck with me:

(1) find out what the shop your local pros use and buy what they stock & service locally. That way you know you can get parts, service, and repairs done.

(2) for use in the shop corded electric chainsaws get a lot of love and are apparently very capable these days. (IIRC- the major chainsaw brands & Makita were the electric saws mentioned.)

Unfortunately, that's as far as I've gotten so I can't offer any first hand recommendations.

[John Lanciani]

Stihl 291. There is a reason that Lowes sells Husky, and it's not because they are the best saw on the market.

[Stan Calow]

All the pros around here use Stihl. I've rented them before and will get one if I need to replace my current Poulan, which I got at a garage sale for $20.

[Mike OMelia]

OK. So there is a lot of support for Stihl. Can I get one with a 20" and 24" bar? I won't need 24" often. And would be happy to go with 20" for now. And I want it to have power a bunch. :)

Stihl is only available through dealers. How do I know a dealer is trustworthy?

[Dave Lehnert]

I'll go against what the vast majority of people will tell you.
I purchased a Stihl and had it back to service shop twice when new. Could not keep it running. They have ported it out so much I now have to keep an extra spark plug in my pocket. Had a Stihl trimmer in the 80's and could not keep it running.
If I was doing over I would get an Echo. I have an Echo trimmer and it is the best one I have ever owned.

But like I said, Stihl is what most will recommend.

[John Lanciani]

My 291 pulls a 24" bar and chain fine but it's right at the limit because of the way I sharpen and cut. (I keep the rakers lower than normal because it works better with my cutting style) It is perfect with a 20". If I used the big bar more I would probably step up to a 311 to have a little more reserve.

[Jerome Stanek]

Stihl is very good but for just occasional use it is expensive

[Mike OMelia]

OK, I hear you. DO you have an idea what the 311/391 price is? Including two bars and chains? I looked at specs and like what I see. (John Lanciani)

[John Lanciani]

Looks like the 311 is $509 and the 391 is $579 right now.

[Jim Becker]

Stihl. I use the .029 (MS290) Farm Boss with an 18" bar. The next sizes up will handle a longer bar nicely, if you need it, and are still reasonably priced. But don't forget that you can also cut from both sides... ;) There's only been one time that I wished for more than my 18" bar in recent years. I personally wouldn't buy any chainsaw that isn't from Stihl, Husqui', etc., and never from a home center as quite often the units sold there are made to cost, rather than to function. I made that mistake for my first one and in the end, it cost me a lot more than just buying the better machine in the first place. A good, quality chainsaw will last and last and will also start easily each and every time.

[Ole Anderson]

I have a little Stihl 018 that is my lightweight go-to saw and a Poulin Pro, both with 14" bars. For bigger stiff I have my Stihl 290 Farm Boss with a 20" bar. None are pro saws.

[Jim Becker]

Ole, do you feel that the Farm Boss handles the 20" bar adequately? 16" is standard and as I mentioned, I run it with an 18". 'Just curious...

[Ole Anderson]

The 290 pulls well in soft wood, in oak it will slow down. Depends on your sharpening skill.

[John K Jordan]

OK. So there is a lot of support for Stihl. Can I get one with a 20" and 24" bar? I won't need 24" often. And would be happy to go with 20" for now. And I want it to have power a bunch. :)

Stihl is only available through dealers. How do I know a dealer is trustworthy?

I use two Stihl 250s with 16" bars, a larger Stihl (can't remember the model) with a 24" bar, and a Stihl electric. I've had other brands including a Husky but I prefer Stihl. The tree guys around here mostly use Stihl.

I don't use the 24" bar much but it is nice when needed. I once used it to cut up a 48" diameter oak tree that fell in a friend's yard. The smaller saws are MUCH easier to carry and saw for hours and the 16" bar will still cut through a 30" diameter log if needed. I cut 24" diameter logs with them often. Plastic wedges are your friend.

I generally buy from the Farmers Co-ops.

JKJ

[Mike OMelia]

Stihl. I use the .029 (MS290) Farm Boss with an 18" bar. The next sizes up will handle a longer bar nicely, if you need it, and are still reasonably priced. But don't forget that you can also cut from both sides... ;) There's only been one time that I wished for more than my 18" bar in recent years. I personally wouldn't buy any chainsaw that isn't from Stihl, Husqui', etc., and never from a home center as quite often the units sold there are made to cost, rather than to function. I made that mistake for my first one and in the end, it cost me a lot more than just buying the better machine in the first place. A good, quality chainsaw will last and last and will also start easily each and every time.

OK, so what u all are saying is I should be plenty happy with the 311 (perhaps overkill), 20", and if I ever need it, I could purchase a 24" bar and chain because the motor can handle it. I like HP, even if I only use it a few times a year.

[Brandon Conover]

Another vote for Stihl, I don't use mine a ton but when I need it it always starts. Prices aren't bad for their non professional saws. It will last you a long time. Also you can buy one at a small local dealer and keep your money away from the big box stores

[Mike OMelia]

I just want to know if I can add a 24" bar to the 311 if I need it.

[Mike OMelia]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eT6-po9XYPE

lol

[peter gagliardi]

Don't know about the 311, but I have 2 of the 361's. They come standard with a 20" bar, and I have put a 24" on it, it works well, plenty of power.
However, when I got them new, I told them to put 16" bars on them, because there is no sense swinging a larger bar unless absolutely necessary. Unless you are cutting down very large trees quite often, a 16" will do just about everything.

[Jim Becker]

I just want to know if I can add a 24" bar to the 311 if I need it.
Stihl's specifications say 16-20" bar for the 311, but I suspect it will handle a 24" occasionally with the right chain and technique. It would be at the limit, but usable. The same holds true for the MS290 like I have, but I don't know I'd want to go above 20" with that slightly smaller power unit.

[Bill McNiel]

I have the Stihl MS 291 with a 20" bar and no complaints at all. Loggers in the NW pretty much use Stihl with Huskies coming in second. I would strongly suggest you buy from a Stihl dealer, not from the Borg.

[john lawson]

I buy Echo. Had a 452vl that lasted 25 years, now have a cs370. It's 7 years old, never missed a beat. I buy mine off ebay, usually a closeout or refurb for cheap. They are very good saws.

[Bill Dufour]

Husky dropped the corded electric saw. Now all they have is a battery one. For my seldom use a battery one is a waste. It will be dead when i need it and the battery will die in a few years.
I think Makita and Sthil still make a corded saw?
Bill D

[Dave Cav]

Get a Stihl Farm Boss and don't worry about it. The new Stihl saws aren't as good as the old ones, but then again nothing is. The nice thing about Stihl is they will only allow a vendor to sell their brand if they agree to service them on the premises, which is why you won't find them in the big box stores.

[Gregory King]

Stihl 291. There is a reason that Lowes sells Husky, and it's not because they are the best saw on the market.

Sounds like you've cooked a couple of Huskys. Hummm. I bought a new 266 Husky in 1987. Have cut on the average of 12 cord of firewood every year for resale. For 4 consecutive years we cut 48 cord for resale. Have used a few chains and 3 clutches and it still runs strong. Use the best gasoline and mix the oil properly. Don't forget to grease the clutch and the tip of the bar after a few uses. And keep the chain sharp!!. A dull chain is a saw motor killer.

[Dave Lehnert]

Get a Stihl Farm Boss and don't worry about it. The new Stihl saws aren't as good as the old ones, but then again nothing is. The nice thing about Stihl is they will only allow a vendor to sell their brand if they agree to service them on the premises, which is why you won't find them in the big box stores.

May not be a big box store but close to it. Rural King sells Stihl chain saws. But they do service them on site.

Around here (East side Cincinnati) everyone sells Stihl. The distributor is located here and a dealer can send a employee in his truck to get anything you want in a short time.

[Jake Elkins]

I agonized over the purchase of a new chain saw a few years ago: I wanted something light enough for limbing on my trees, but something that could take a long bar for an Alaskan-style chainsaw mill. After months and months of shopping and holding saws, I went with the Dolmar 7900. Very few things in life makes me more content then firing up that saw. There might be better saws, but I have never used one. Highly recommended

[Joseph Montroy]

What are your cutting needs? I have a Stihl ms361 with a 16" bar that I use for 90% of my cutting. For big stuff I have a Husky 372xpw that wears a 20" or 24" inch bar. I'm always cutting hardwood, about 12 cord a year. Any pro model from Stihl or Husqvarna will last forever, pending good fuel and sharp chains. I can't recommend a pro level saw enough... they always start right up and run like a champ.

[Larry Edgerton]

Lowes sells Husqvarna, and I like buying from them. Something goes wrong, they take care of it. I'm wishing I could buy the model with the 60cc engine and swap out 20" and 24" bars. Is this doable?

Lowes only sells the lower home owner models, the real saws are at the dealers. XP models are made to use every day.

I am in the Husky camp, never had great luck with Sthil, and just don't like the way they feel. Current saws are 346, 357, and 372 XP models. Favorite is the 357XP.

[roger wiegand]

I've used both Husky and Stihl (not counting my first saw some 50 years ago, a Pioneer that weighed about 45 pounds with a 36" bar-- as far as I know it is still running!). Both work great for the kinds of 10 times a year work I do now.

[Pat Barry]

I wonder if both Stihl and Husqvarna aren't made in the same factory. Does anyone know for sure?

[John Lanciani]

I wonder if both Stihl and Husqvarna aren't made in the same factory. Does anyone know for sure?

Two completely separate companies, Stihl is German and Husqvarna is Swedish.

[peter gagliardi]

True, but I think Stihl has a factory in the southeast US.

[Jerome Stanek]

I thought that only dealers sell Stihl around here that is the only place tobuy them and every dealer has the same price.

[John K Jordan]

I thought that only dealers sell Stihl around here that is the only place tobuy them and every dealer has the same price.

I don't know, maybe it's local price fixing. I bought two of my Stihl saws from a farmer's co-op when they had one of their big biannual chainsaw sales. I had to drive about 40 miles since they were not on sale at a closer Stihl dealer.

JKJ

[scott spencer]

I researched chain saws about 18 months ago. Stihl and Husky are the most commonly recommended by people who use them heavily. It's worth noting that even these venerable names offer some lesser examples at the lowest price ranges that homeowners tend to gravitate to...it's the pro level stuff that's highly regarded. Having local support is just about as important as which brand you choose. I ended up picking up a super closeout deal on a Dolmar made Makita that's been excellent so far.

[Jim Becker]

I thought that only dealers sell Stihl around here that is the only place tobuy them and every dealer has the same price.

In general, just like many types of equipment sales, including tractors, MSRP is most often the rule, and any "sale" is a rare exception. It just seems to be the industry convention when it comes to things like that. While the primary reason that Stihl controls distribution is service, that essentially insures that their dealers are able to maintain full margin on the product. Stihl also has requirements on advertising, I believe. I've not seen any deviation in pricing between multiple Stihl dealers in my area and one of them would try to charge more if they could... ;) ...but they do that with Kubota parts, too. I don't shop there very often...

[Stan Calow]

Stihl is sold here at Ace Hardware and some True Value Hardware stores, and I don't believe they service anything on site at the ones I go to - maybe a central location.

[lee cox]

I have a STIHL 036 Pro I have had over 20 years. I use it with a 18 inch bar and chain. I like the weight and balance with the 18 inch bar. With an 18 inch bar I still can cut 36 inch trees. I rarely need anything bigger. The Stihl 360 models have a compression release to make starting it easier which I really like. I have only had it in the shop one time when I used a friend's "good gas" which messed it up. I use STIHL oil and I don't have any problems. I now avoid other people's chain saw gas and only use what I mixed and keep in a metal gas can.

I tried a Walmart special before buying my STIL and it lasted about 1/2 a day. I got my money back the next day.

PS
I mainly cut firewood and BBQ wood which is oak here in Texas. A Stihl 036 pro cuts pretty fast through an oak tree trunk. I probably have owned my Stihl pro 036 for more than 20 years since they stopped making it a while back. I bought it new. I am old and I have a problem with time. Everything seems like yesterday. The Stihl pro 036 is the same size as the MS360,MS361 and MS362.

[Phillip Mitchell]

Nobody seems to have asked the question....what do you need a chainsaw for? Pruning branches in the backyard twice a year, consistently cutting firewood, tree removal, logging? It's just like any other tool recommendation. Without enough information it's difficult to answer that question adequately.

Also, just throwing out brands like Stihl and Husky don't do anybody any favors. I think you need to get into specific models to be helpful.

I'll say that I have owned and operated duds and creampuffs from both Stihl and Husky. I currently have a couple of Stihls that see regular use (026 pro, and ported 044) but have a Husky 288XP sitting around from my logging days that I can't bring myself to get of. I once had a Husky 346XP which I regularly regret selling to a friend. Wish I still had that one....

I wouldn't buy any of the offerings from Lowes, but that doesn't mean you shouldn't if you're happy with what they have to offer and their service in your area.

[Jim Becker]

Stihl is sold here at Ace Hardware and some True Value Hardware stores, and I don't believe they service anything on site at the ones I go to - maybe a central location.
Ace and True Value are franchises, so the individual franchise owners very well could be meeting the service requirement to be able to carry Stihl products. The owners may have more than one "business" residing in the same location.

[William Fretwell]

Have two Husky's both pro versions. I needed a lesson at the dealer to start the big one and the oil pump died in week two but they fixed it free and been fine for years now. The big one runs my lumber mill beautifully and the smaller one can run up to a 24" bar just fine for felling. I doubt it matters what brand you buy as each brand makes a range of quality. Both will provide you with plenty of exercise!
The sound my big one makes is awesome!

[Brian Henderson]

I've been stuck using a crappy 16" electric chain saw for a year now. I've got a really nice 30" Stihl but it's in a storage unit that I still have to clear out one of these days and it's been more trouble than it's worth to drive 100 miles to the storage unit to get it than to struggle with the electric. Hopefully, I'm done with needing to cut down trees for a while.

[Bill Orbine]

In general, just like many types of equipment sales, including tractors, MSRP is most often the rule, and any "sale" is a rare exception. It just seems to be the industry convention when it comes to things like that. While the primary reason that Stihl controls distribution is service, that essentially insures that their dealers are able to maintain full margin on the product. Stihl also has requirements on advertising, I believe. I've not seen any deviation in pricing between multiple Stihl dealers in my area and one of them would try to charge more if they could... ;) ...but they do that with Kubota parts, too. I don't shop there very often...

Festool rang the bell........

[Bob Bouis]

I like Stihls but the new ones with the electronic mixture control don't hot start well. It's really obnoxious.

[Jerry Olexa]

STIHL.....Exceptional machines

[Keith Outten]

Stihl's manufacturing plant is in Virginia Beach Virginia.

I have a local dealer that sells both John Deere and Stihl. They won't service any products that they didn't sell, the reason is that they only sell commercial quality machines. The homeowner models, especially the John Deere mowers sold by the local big box stores are definitely lower quality machines. Everything I have purchased from my local dealer has been excellent but the price reflected the quality of each machine I purchased.
.

[Jerry Olexa]

Yes, Keith..I have an older Deere and my neighbor, a newer "box store" Deere model with roughly same stated HP and spec...He admits mine is far superior in power, uphill torque etc.
Of course, I paid several years more than double his current purchase price...Seems there's an lesson/axiom in there...

[Stan Calow]

Stihl MS 261 is one that I had rented a couple of times and was impressed with it enough to plan on buying one if I ever decide to buy a new saw. My garage sale Poulan is enough for now.

[Jared Sankovich]

Dolmar/makita.. but any pro model from Husqvarna or stihl will work very well.367682
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[John TenEyck]

Husky, Stihl, Echo, Makita/Dolmar are all good. Recognize the pro models are in another class from the homeowner level saws. That said, the average homeowner will never wear out any saw with just a little maintenance. Why a homeowner would need a 24" bar escapes me unless you live in the west but if that's what you want then the Stihl 390 or 361 or Husky 372XP would be excellent choices. I own both Stihl and Husky saws, both homeowner and pro quality. My favorite all round saw is an old Husky 55 Rancher. Must be 25 years old and just runs and runs w/o complaint. Starts w/o issue, light, great balance, and enough power to run an 18" bar. Perfect homeowner saw. My 385XP is similarly dependable on my chainsaw mill with a 42" bar. With a 24" bar it's a monster bucking logs but you better have strong arms and a good back to do it for very long. My advise is to go with the lightest saw that meets your needs.

John

[Jared Sankovich]

Why a homeowner would need a 24" bar escapes me

John

Its surprising how much use you can get out of a 28-36" bar as a homeowner once you have one and a saw or three that can pull it. I gave my father a 7900 to replace some cheap Blue something or other eastern import saw he bought. He put a 28 bar on it and ended up soon after with a few 36-48" dbh trees that either came down or needed to come down soon after he got the saw.

Do you need a 60 or 80 or 95cc saw, where a 45cc will get by, no but they sure are a lot faster.

[daryl moses]

I have two Husky's. A 455 Rancher and a 51 I use for trimming.
I've owned both saws for a number of years and both have been relatively trouble free. I purchased both at a dealership that sells Stihl and Husquvarna, I asked the owner which one he preferred and he said "flip a coin" they are both great saws.
I probably use my saws more in a week than most use in a year or two, after all, I do live and work on a tree farm.
I always chuckle when I see someone with a huge saw with an equally long bar. I use the shortest bar I can get away with. Why?? Because of weight and ease of handling, I have gone the long bar route but find them unwieldy plus a shorter bar and chain will have more RPM's, less weight and less friction and in my experience will cut quicker. I've not found any trees that I can't fell on my property by using a 20" bar. And i've cut down some massive ones.
Most of the time my 455 wears an 18" bar but on some occasions I will switch over to the 20 especially if I am cutting larger bowl blanks. I get a smoother cut if I can cut through on one side versus cutting on both sides. Felling a tree it doesn't matter how smooth the cut is.

[Brian Lefort]

Husqvarna rancher or stihl farm boss. anything around an 045 size is good for general purpose work. not too big, nor too small.

[Jared Sankovich]

I probably use my saws more in a week than most use in a year or two, after all, I do live and work on a tree farm.
I always chuckle when I see someone with a huge saw with an equally long bar. I use the shortest bar I can get away with. Why?? Because of weight and ease of handling, I have gone the long bar route but find them unwieldy plus a shorter bar and chain will have more RPM's, less weight and less friction and in my experience will cut quicker. I've not found any trees that I can't fell on my property by using a 20" bar. And i've cut down some massive ones.

And sometimes you need a big bar, and it helps if you have a big saw bolted to it. The silver maple in the last picture was too large for the 32" bar, it was a bit over 6'

367828
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[John TenEyck]

True, but that's well outside the norm for most homeowner users. As mentioned earlier, it's far easier to work with a 10 lb saw that meets 95% of your needs, than a 20 lb one that you only need 5% of the time. When you need a big saw, rent one, or call a pro. And most big saws run pro chain, not the low kick back style used on most smaller saws, and not something a typical homeowner user should be using.

John

[Robert Eckerle]

I have a Jonsered that I bought in 1991 that still runs like a champ, never been hard to start.
It cut many many chords of firewood in Colorado, then it moved to south Alabama and cut trees after two hurricanes

It's a beast

[Brice Rogers]

Robert, I have an old Jonsered as well. It is circa 1980. I bought it in the midwest, where they had a decent presence. I don't hear much about them recently. When it got about 25 or 30 years old, the rubber gas line rotted out but that was easily replaced. It actually doesn't have all that much use on it - - perhaps 20 or 30 cords of wood. It only has a 16" bar on it but it also was available in longer bars.

My only complaint is that it is pretty heavy. It weighs in at around 17 or 18 pounds.

One of my favorite chainsaws - - and this is going to sound goofy - - was an Eager Beaver McCullough. It only had a 10 or 12" bar but it was great for limbing a fallen tree as well as being on a ladder and limbing or pruning with one hand. It was very light weight. It was made of aluminum and magnesium. But it was a cheap saw and eventually vibrated itself to death and repair parts were unavailable.

[scott lipscomb]

I have and have had a bunch of pro level Huskys and Stihls and I've mostly liked em all, but i really like my cordless Still MSA 200. It has a 1/4" picco chain and its great for going out to the lumber stacks and cutting what I need to length right there. It lives in the truck mostly and its so handy and it seems to cut as well as a 30cc saw. I also have the pole saw, the concrete saw, and the blower, all with the same batteries. And no 2 stroke finickiness.

[Jim Becker]

And sometimes you need a big bar, and it helps if you have a big saw bolted to it. The silver maple in the last picture was too large for the 32" bar, it was a bit over 6'





True, but the "average" homeowner is not usually going to be dealing with such large trees. I'd hire that out for sure, personally. In fact, I have one large tree that needs to be dropped right now and I have made arrangements for a local arborist I use to bring it down and cut up just the larger, lower section (if it's not hollow), leaving the rest for me to deal with with my own saw.

[Greg Hines, MD]

I have had a Husquvarna 460 Rancher with a 24" bar since 2012, and it has done great for cutting about 5 cords of firewood every season for the wood stove. I bought it off Amazon as I had some gift cards, and I have been pleased with it.

One thing, I have been using the Stihl premixed fuel in it for the past 3-4 years. It has been great, in spite of the extra cost, as the can goes into the chainsaw box, and it has no ethanol in it, so it does not attract atmospheric water like regular gas does.

Doc

[Gregory King]

I would imagine a few of us remember the old Pioneer saws. Had a gas bowl if I recall. As a young lad, I remember trying to start my dad's unit with one foot on top. I'll never forget the kickback and the sheer weight of it. It was more like a car engine . Glad I never had to work it.

[Wallace Brooks]

Dolmar saws are great. I have two.

[Bill Dufour]

Anyone ever used a hydraulic chainsaw? The power companies use them up in a bucket truck. Might be nice to use with a tractor. sure would be easy to start!:D I have also seen pneumatic pruners for commercial orchards.
Bill D

[Larry Edgerton]

I would imagine a few of us remember the old Pioneer saws. Had a gas bowl if I recall. As a young lad, I remember trying to start my dad's unit with one foot on top. I'll never forget the kickback and the sheer weight of it. It was more like a car engine . Glad I never had to work it.

One of my favorite saws was a Partner/Pioneer 7000. Was one of the first with a high chain speed, and just felt right.

I disagree with the shortest bar idea. I like a 20" as my go to bar. Less bending over and to me is the ideal length for most saw work.

[Steve Demuth]

They are great if you're sawing from a bucket trimming from the top down. Just try to imagine dragging enough hydraulic hose around to work in the woods or reducing the top of a big tree you've laid on the ground. It's a complete non starter.

[John TenEyck]

Anyone ever used a hydraulic chainsaw? The power companies use them up in a bucket truck. Might be nice to use with a tractor. sure would be easy to start!:D I have also seen pneumatic pruners for commercial orchards.
Bill D


Never seen one, but wonder how safe they would be considering the torque it would have at any rpm. 2-cycle chainsaws will stall in a good pair of chaps and spare you injury. That's not the case with electric powered chainsaws, which have max. torque at low rpm, and it seems to me a hydraulic driven one would have even more torque.

John

[Rob Luter]

I have a Husqvarna Rancher with a large pitch chain. It cuts Oak like soap. All my other yard equipment is Stihl and I wouldn't hesitate to buy one of their saws if I needed to replace my Husky. Stihl makes a lighter weight saw.

[Stuart Kent]

late to this thread, but I have 2 Husqvarnas; a Lowe's 350 and professional 372XP. Both run beautifully after several trips to Central America, questionable fuels, BAD fuel mixtures, REALLY bad indescribable gunks (not bar oil) run through the bar oil reservoirs, and years of heavy use. I replace spark plugs and air filters annually regardless of their conditions, ALWAYS store with premixed Husqvarna fuel run through the lines for about a minute before storage, clean EVERYTHING that can be cleaned EVERY time I use them, store them flat, let them warm up for a few seconds before running them hard - but I run them HARD when I run them! I like Stihls too, just like the availability of parts for Husqys worldwide. Lately I have only been running premixed fuels through them because I keep reading horror stories about ethanol-related problems. I use Stihl chain, sharpen often. I expect my saws to run for many more years and wouldn't look any further than these.

good luck

[John K Jordan]

...Lately I have only been running premixed fuels through them because I keep reading horror stories about ethanol-related problems.

If you don't know about it, there is a simple way to test for any ethanol in gasoline.

We know which stations around here provide pure gasoline (at a premium price these days) and I've tested them. I always buy pure gasoline for my small engines here on the farm, from chain saws to water pump to generator to 4-wheelers. I mix with Stihl oil where needed. It's cheaper if you buy it in quantity.

JKJ

[Bernie May]

the premixed gas is convenient, especially if you do not use the saw a lot. The long bars are very useful for folks who turn or those who want to cut their own rough lumber. I have a 28" bar on a Stihl and would not give it up.

[Jerry Olexa]

The pure gas is much better for The STIHLS...You'll get the quick start up months later unlike the other ethanol blends.IMHO

[Warren Wilson]

Why not go to your local saw shop (that repairs chainsaws for loggers, for instance) and ask a repairman which is the most dependable? Our local guy says he makes his living fixing Stihls and Huskies and rarely sees an Echo. Mind you, most loggers here use Stihls and Huskies, so it's probably not a fair comparison.

(Just like my independent mechanic friend who praises Fords. He says they put the food on his table).

: )