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Jim Koepke
09-02-2017, 12:12 PM
In the thread about the new Veritas Combination Plane Andrey Kharitonkin asked about stopped rabbets and such. This is a use I theorized about being the use for modified skates occasionally seen on auction listings for Stanley #45s.

Here is most of the text and images from an article submitted and rejected by one of the woodworking magazines:

My curiosity has often wondered about for sale listings of a Stanley 45 with a slot cut in to its fence. Until recently the reason for this escaped me. It appears some innovative user discovered a way to make stopped rabbets with a Stanley 45. This method can also make stopped beads, slots and flutes.

With this method the ends will require minimal clean up with a chisel or router plane. In the case of beads or flutes the ends will clean up easily with gouges.

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The blade is shown nested in the fence.

With a complete set of blades the #9 is the widest at 1-1/4"/ The next blade is a #19 at 7/8". With these blades the slot only has to be deep enough to make up the 3/8" difference between these two blades to offer a full range of rabbet widths.

The work piece should be marked with a knife and/or a wheel gauge. This helps avoid chip out at the edges. Stop blocks are also helpful when first starting a cut. The blade being bedded at 45º will have a small effect on the layout which will be explained.

With the cut laid out on the work piece the next step is setting the depth stops. For stopped cuts the depth stops are actually set slightly below the skates. For this a shim of about 0.030" is used to elevate the skates while setting the depth stops. A small square is also used. Both the front stop and slitter stop are set at this time. If desired it is easy to attach a wooden sole to the depth stops to prevent the metal from marring the work piece.

For plowing, beading or fluting it helps to use an auxiliary stop on the moving skate. A cam stop is also helpful.

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Setting the depth stops. there is a shim under the skates to ensure the
stops extend slightly below the skates.

With the plane set up for making stopped cuts, the blade holding bolt is not fully tightened. This allows the blade to be adjusted deeper for each cut. Advancing the blade a quarter to a half turn for each cut worked well. Be aware that the blade will be moved by the force of cutting and may move to one side. The blade should be checked and reset as needed with each cut.

As the cut goes deeper a ramp will build at the start end of the cut. The blades edge moves forward in relation to the rest of the plane each time it is advanced.

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The pencil marks indicate the ramp forming at the start of the cut.
Notice marks left by the skates and depth stops.

At the end point of the cut a wall will develop and stop the plane's forward movement. If the plane is pushed hard, this wall can chip out. Making the cut a little short then cleaning up the end with a chisel will make for a neater finished job.

Other stopped cuts can be made in a similar fashion.

This might be a touch tricky with the Veritas Combination Plane as it has no back depth stop. One can likely keep a bit of bias toward the front of the plane to handle this.

jtk

James Pallas
09-02-2017, 1:26 PM
I remember seeing your write up about this some time back. I meant to give it a try at some point. Now I'm going to put a note in the top of my 45 box to remind me. Seems like it may be a little fiddlely, but worth a try. I've done some shallow rabbets by making a dado along the edge with the blade extension trick and very light cuts, then cutting the edge with a cutting gauge.
Jim

Andrey Kharitonkin
09-02-2017, 4:59 PM
Thanks Jim! I have to read it a few more times in a quiet place after some rest! :)

steven c newman
09-02-2017, 5:51 PM
Hmmm..
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Regular #45. Mallet and chisel to clean the near end.. Rebate for the back of the chest of drawers.
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Just kept working my way back towards the stopped section...

steven c newman
09-03-2017, 1:26 PM
One other tip:

Figure out WHERE the cut needs to stop at. Mark that spot. Next, mark where the plane's cutter would stop at, and mark that. Mallet and chisel to remove the area between the two marks, then plane through to the end. IF there is a slight "bump"near the end, you can finish the stopped rebate with a shoulder plane or a sharp chisel. You can then work your way back from that point. Same with the start point.