New Remote Control for RPC, Goodbye Wireless!!!

[Bill Webster]

I just changed the remote control on my rotary phase converter again. In my old shop, the RPC’s contactor was controlled with a 120V coil ratcheting relay. Any remote pushbutton switch in the shop could toggle the RPC on or off, so just walk over to the nearest one. In my new shop, I set the control up using a wireless remote light switch to turn the contactor on and off. Didn’t like it at all. The wireless remote was never where I was and easily lost. So now I am going back to the ratcheting relay control, but this time with low voltage for the remote switches. I am also adding LED indicator lights at all switches, which are also low voltage. The connectors sticking out of the top of the box are where the wires will attach from the remote switches and indicator lights. The red switch on the box also operates the circuit. I used a 30 amp contactor for the 24v relay just because it was a common item and cheaper than a more appropriate relay. This control was a lot of messing around, but it will be nicer to use. I have a wireless remote for my dust collector, but it works out fine because all of the tools that use it are in the same general area.

[Jim Becker]

That sounds like a great shop improvement project.

[Chris Parks]

I have the remote on a lanyard around my neck, if I didn't do that I would never find it. I looked at low voltage and decided it was too much trouble and it took about ten minutes to install an wireless controller unit that cost about $10. If I was to do a low voltage control set up it would be triggered straight off the blast gates.

[Bill Webster]

Putting the remote around your neck is a good idea. If you were to put switches at the blast gates, you don't need to use special blast gates, just put the switches next to the blast gates. I don't plan on doing anything special for my dust collector because all my machines connected to the dust collector are within a 15' radius. The phase converter is a much different story. The beauty of the ratcheting relay is that any remote switch anywhere will toggle the phase converter or dust collector on or off, so just go to the nearest remote switch. Attached is a photo of one of my remote switch/indicator lights.


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[Mike Heidrick]

What size rpc are you using? I doing a 20hp rpc and I am doing both 24v control stations and maybe a remote too. I have a large contactor whos coil gets switched by up to three 24v contactors. One of the 24v contactors has nine stations wired. I am doing no and nc buttons at each. I have not wired a remote to it yet but may. My 10hp 3ph cyclone has a remote from griz but i msy change that. Its controls are interesting, the start and run circuits are on two different contactors and timed.

[Bill Webster]

My RPC is only 3 hp, but I have the parts to make a 6.6 hp RPC, just have to assemble it. It will use a Eurotech controller. But the circuit I made just operates the RPC contactor, so hp doesn't matter for this control. Here is a photo of one of my remote switch/indicator lights. The bottom of the pull chain is 6.5 feet off the floor.
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[Dave Cav]

I'm using a wireless 120 VAC light switch to energize a relay to start and stop my dust collector. I got all the parts on Amazon for about 20 bucks, then bought two more remotes and and programmed them to work with the wireless switch. One is clipped to my shop apron, one is hung on the wall between the two bandsaws, and one is located between the planer, the RAS and the TS.

[Bill Webster]

Having a remote switch with multiple remotes certainly helps. I had that until that switch went bad. I put bright streamers on my remotes and that helped to find them easier. On my controls for the RPC and dust collector, I put 120V input and output plugs on them so that it is very easy to replace remote switches or add a contactor control box. Another thing I did for the dust collector wireless control was to power it with the same circuit as the shop lights, so the dust collector can not be energized if the wireless switch were to every go bad when I am not in the shop. Unlikely, but easy to wire this way.

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[Bill Webster]

If you really want to keep it simple, you can operate your contactor coil with low voltage remote switches using a battery and an $8 solid state relay. The battery should last years in this application.

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