Type of Screws to Use for Installing Kitchen Cabinets

[Bob Deroeck]

What type of screw do you recommend using for installing kitchen wall and base cabinets to the studs in the wall. I'm looking for screw size (#8, #10. #12, etc). length, and head type. Manufacturer's name and model number could also be useful. The walls are 1/2" drywall with a plaster skim coat. The cabinets have a full back of 1/2" plywood, rabbeted into 3/4" plywood sides.

Also, what type of screw do you recommend using for attaching each cabinet to the adjacent cabinet. Again, recommendations for screw size (#8, #10. #12, etc). length, and head type would be appreciated.

And, where do you recommend buying these screws via the internet?

Thanks.

Bob

[roger wiegand]

I like these: http://www.homedepot.com/p/GRK-Fasteners-8-x-2-1-2-in-Low-Profile-Washer-Head-Cabinet-Screw-100-per-Pack-113079/203525221

367065
They come in a range of lengths.

[George Bokros]

Roger shows the correct screw for attaching the cabinets to the wall. As for attaching two cabinets together I use trim head screws also available at a big box store.

[John K Jordan]

For fastening each cabinet to the adjacent cabinet i use long drywall screws. To align the fronts perfectly I remove the doors, mount the cabinets loosely to the wall, clamp the face frames together, drill and countersink for the screws, install the screws, then tighten the cabinets against the wall. I have no idea if there is a better way but this works for me.

EDIT: forgot to mention I drill through the face frames first deep enough for the screw using a bit sized for the screw threads, then again with a larger bit for thread clearance just deep enough to go through the first frame, then countersink. Might be able to get by without the clearance hole if the frames are clamped tightly but hey...

[Sam Murdoch]

+1 to those above, especially for attaching through to the walls and then for attaching the cabs to each other - THROUGH the FACE FRAME - and also for attaching trim sometimes, I use http://www.grkfasteners.com/products/trim-screw/fin-trim

Don't use the "composites" as they have extra threads near the head which can add some difficulty especially if you need to withdraw the screw.

For attaching cabs to each other through the side walls I simply use GRK wood screws with the normal bugle head. These are all TORX drive and I prefer these to all other screw drive systems these days. Nearly all my screw use has gone to TORX. There are GRK alternatives that are less expensive but the brand varies according to your local stores so I can't specify. All available in nearly every lumber yard, box store, Amazon, etc.

The size is dependent on your materials. I usually use 3" #9 screws for attaching uppers to walls and then a range of #8s for other work.

[Matt Day]

John, I think you have the right method but not the right screws.

I use drywall screws occasionally for jigs and stuff but wouldn't let them touch hardwood. Anybody else agree?

[Cary Falk]

I really like the Kreg pocket hole screw. I have never had one break on me and the square drive means less stripping.

[Evan Stewart]

I definitely find the GRK screws to be the best ones that are readily available at a store. They have WAY more strength than drywall screws and come in a variety of sizes. My cabinets have 1/2" backs and i find the 3 1/8" cabinet screws are perfect. The 3 1/8 and 2 1/2" trim screws are perfect for face frames especially the ones that are threaded to the head.

I also use the heavier construction screws they make for framing alterations. I have never had an issue with the strength of any of there screws after several years of use.

[Stan Calow]

I use drywall screws occasionally for jigs and stuff but wouldn't let them touch hardwood. Anybody else agree?

Matt, yes. I am just a homeowner not a pro, but I have had many drywall screws snap off when used for anything other than drywall. I learned later that with their thin shafts, they're not designed for shear strength.

[Sam Murdoch]

I definitely find the GRK screws to be the best ones that are readily available at a store. They have WAY more strength than drywall screws and come in a variety of sizes. My cabinets have 1/2" backs and i find the 3 1/8" cabinet screws are perfect. The 3 1/8 and 2 1/2" trim screws are perfect for face frames especially the ones that are threaded to the head.

I also use the heavier construction screws they make for framing alterations. I have never had an issue with the strength of any of there screws after several years of use.

Funny how we all develop different preferences. I wrote above NOT to use those fully threaded trim screws :). My preference for the non composite/non threaded shank screws is based on 2 likely situations:

1)The screws without the added thread at the top are easier to direct in hardwood - especially - and even though I pre-bore when using any of these finish screws, the "composite" screws with the extra thread require a bigger drill bit or the hard wood tends to split. The bigger drill hole (to my way of thinking) means that the threads are not holding as well on the 2nd piece.

2) I sometimes use the finish screws to hold miters in big crowns or other trim. I prefer to assemble complex corners on the bench/saw horse table, rather than at the ceiling or cabinet top. Using the screws with the unthreaded upper shank I can easily reposition the screws without tearing apart my fragile assembly but with the upper threaded screws those extra threads actually pull apart the work if I try to withdraw. Not a problem for most cabinet install but if you ever need to pull the screw out, it becomes an aggravation. Those upper threaded screws also tend to blow out the wood when withdrawing and leave a bigger entry hole.

The wonderful thing about the GRKs and other torx drive screws is that you can drive and withdraw repeatedly without stripping the screw head. When it come to building jigs this is invaluable as the screw can be repositioned repeatedly or when you take apart your jig the screws are good to go for another project. I often do framing these days with torx screws and have taken work apart years later - the screws still being good to use again. Try that with dry wall screws.

[Jamie Buxton]

For base cabinets, nearly anything works. But for uppers, where the entire weight of the cabinets and the contents is hanging on the screws, I prefer #10 over #8. Mcfeelys sells #10 square drive screws in a variety of colors. https://www.mcfeelys.com/screw-fastener-web-store/mcfeelys-select-a-screw.html?screw_head_type=6160&screw_thread_size=80

[John K Jordan]

Matt, yes. I am just a homeowner not a pro, but I have had many drywall screws snap off when used for anything other than drywall. I learned later that with their thin shafts, they're not designed for shear strength.

Perhaps I have better luck with drywall screws because I install most of the way with power then tighten by hand, lubricated with wax. Never had one snap. (I always tighten screws that way except for decks and building construction.) Of course, I'm not a professional installer, just a install my own and for friends. I put in a kitchen here about 13 years ago with all the cabinets made from hickory. I probably WOULD have snapped screws if power driven.

I paid someone to build the hickory cabinets to my specs but fired them when I saw how they connected the first two cabinets, ripped out what they did and did the installation myself.

JKJ

[Joe Jensen]

I strongly recommend the GRK screws in the top post. Few screws are designed for shear loads, those are. The are also torx head so to they don't strip.

[Erik Christensen]

check out the fastcap system - they are the bomb for cabinets. I hung a large corner upper with these things and before I hung the door or installed the shelves I took a picture of my wife sitting in the cabinet along with our 2 20# terriers & when I hung the doors I would climb in the cabinet & I weigh 200#. They have a huge flat head, come in #10 sizes and you can buy a tool from them that drills the pilot hole and a flat precise depth counter sink so that when you seat the screw with an impact driver you cover the screw head with a peel & stick cap that they sell with various wood species you can finish to match. You can't really see them after covered and they are the strongest screw system for hanging stuff on walls I have seen.

[Ben Rivel]

No issues using #8 in the GRK screws? I would think #10 screws would be more desirable for hanging cabinets.

[Charles P. Wright]

I had good results in my kitchen with the FastCap powerhead screws. The longer length for attaching to the studs, the 1.25" length for connecting adjacent cabinets.

Charles

[roger wiegand]

FWIW, I love using a french cleat to hang the uppers. I cut 3/8" BB plywood strips from scrap with a 45 deg edge and screw one to the wall and one to the cabinet (plus a spacer at the bottom of the cabinet to keep them level. It makes one-person cabinet installation a breeze as well as allowing you to put everything up in place to see what you've forgotten about before you start screwing things in place. If you're like me and only do this once every few years you will mis-position or forget a trim strip somewhere! (or DW will decide she'd rather have the cabinets in a different order once she sees them in place.)

Oh-- and install the uppers first, so you don't have to work reaching out over the lowers.

[Lee Schierer]

For fastening each cabinet to the adjacent cabinet i use long drywall screws. To align the fronts perfectly I remove the doors, mount the cabinets loosely to the wall, clamp the face frames together, drill and countersink for the screws, install the screws, then tighten the cabinets against the wall. I have no idea if there is a better way but this works for me.

EDIT: forgot to mention I drill through the face frames first deep enough for the screw using a bit sized for the screw threads, then again with a larger bit for thread clearance just deep enough to go through the first frame, then countersink. Might be able to get by without the clearance hole if the frames are clamped tightly but hey...

Your procedure is correct, but your screws are wrong. Drywall screws are too brittle for structural use. Use the GRK screws identified by others. Kraftmaid cabinets come with screws for hanging and joining that are nearly identical tot he GRK screws.

[Evan Stewart]

Funny how we all develop different preferences. I wrote above NOT to use those fully threaded trim screws :). My preference for the non composite/non threaded shank screws is based on 2 likely situations:

1)The screws without the added thread at the top are easier to direct in hardwood - especially - and even though I pre-bore when using any of these finish screws, the "composite" screws with the extra thread require a bigger drill bit or the hard wood tends to split. The bigger drill hole (to my way of thinking) means that the threads are not holding as well on the 2nd piece.

2) I sometimes use the finish screws to hold miters in big crowns or other trim. I prefer to assemble complex corners on the bench/saw horse table, rather than at the ceiling or cabinet top. Using the screws with the unthreaded upper shank I can easily reposition the screws without tearing apart my fragile assembly but with the upper threaded screws those extra threads actually pull apart the work if I try to withdraw. Not a problem for most cabinet install but if you ever need to pull the screw out, it becomes an aggravation. Those upper threaded screws also tend to blow out the wood when withdrawing and leave a bigger entry hole.

The wonderful thing about the GRKs and other torx drive screws is that you can drive and withdraw repeatedly without stripping the screw head. When it come to building jigs this is invaluable as the screw can be repositioned repeatedly or when you take apart your jig the screws are good to go for another project. I often do framing these days with torx screws and have taken work apart years later - the screws still being good to use again. Try that with dry wall screws.


I use the ones that are not threaded all the way up when the cabinets have a natural or non pigmented finish for exactly the reasons you stated. I actually realized after reading your response that it has been over a year since i have had a customer want anything except some shade of white finish. With anything solid color I pre drill and slightly counter sink and then fill the holes.

I'm interested in your method for crown installation. Do you do installs by yourself or with help? It definitely sounds like a good method but I do most of my installs alone and it seems like it would be very challenging to support a long length with 90 degree pieces attached. Do you have any tricks that help support this. I'm definitely interested in anything that makes installing crown easier. I dont know if there is really an easy way to install crown by yourself but I would certainly be interested in hearing about other methods.

[Brandon Conover]

Drywall screws are bad news I assure you. They are very brittle and not made for cabinetry installation. Many years ago I used them before I knew better.
The washer head screws mentioned above are great for getting the cabinets on the wall. I get most of my screws from either Häfele or Richelieu nowadays. A good 2", "type 17 head"wood screw countersunk a 1/4" with a 3/8" forstner is perfect to put face frame style cabinets together. You can fill or plug the hole with a dowel with a bit of paint/stain for a very clean look if they can't be buried under the hinges. Predrilled correctly is crucial.
https://www.richelieu.com/us/en/category/screws-and-fasteners/wood-screws/1034983?sort=&nbPerPage=48

[Sam Murdoch]

I'm interested in your method for crown installation. Do you do installs by yourself or with help? It definitely sounds like a good method but I do most of my installs alone and it seems like it would be very challenging to support a long length with 90 degree pieces attached. Do you have any tricks that help support this. I'm definitely interested in anything that makes installing crown easier. I dont know if there is really an easy way to install crown by yourself but I would certainly be interested in hearing about other methods.

Hi Evan - Best to start a new thread with this question. I'll reply and I'm sure many others will have more to offer. Answering here is a total hijack of the screw question. Feel free to copy and paste from here to the new thread as a starting point for the discussion.

[mreza Salav]

For hanging cabinets to walls if I have 3/4" full back I use 3.5" Fastcap cabinet installation screws:

http://www.fastcap.com/estore/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=57675&idcategory=11

along with this bit you get a flush mount and you can choose from a variety of plugs to cover it flush with the surface:

https://www.richelieu.com/ca/en/category/tools-and-shop-supplies/workshop-accessories/tool-accessories/drill-accessories/wood-drill-bits/flushmount-drill-bit-replacement-bit/1009982/sku-916917

https://www.richelieu.com/ca/en/category/screws-and-fasteners/screw-plugs/fastcap-cover-caps/1002884

To make the boxes I use GRK screws.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Cabinet screws - - either GRK brand or Spax.
Just like the one Roger shows

A cabinet screw has that smooth shaft just below the head that allows the screw to draw the cabinet snug against the wall.
A fully threaded screw can leave you frustrated big time trying to snug things up.

Drywall screws are the cheapest pieces of junk with threads you can buy. It takes like a dozen of them to hold up a 10# sheet of drywall.

[Terry Wawro]

[QUOTE=Joe Jensen;2722751]I strongly recommend the GRK screws in the top post. Few screws are designed for shear loads, those are. The are also torx head so to they don't strip.[/QUOTE

Same here. I just did a downstairs kitchen/bar area and these were my go-to screws. Easy to find and made for the job. In the past I've tried the long drywall screws but found many of them snap off just as you are tightening then down.

[Curt Harms]

FWIW, I love using a french cleat to hang the uppers. I cut 3/8" BB plywood strips from scrap with a 45 deg edge and screw one to the wall and one to the cabinet (plus a spacer at the bottom of the cabinet to keep them level. It makes one-person cabinet installation a breeze as well as allowing you to put everything up in place to see what you've forgotten about before you start screwing things in place. If you're like me and only do this once every few years you will mis-position or forget a trim strip somewhere! (or DW will decide she'd rather have the cabinets in a different order once she sees them in place.)

Oh-- and install the uppers first, so you don't have to work reaching out over the lowers.

I built some hanging cabinets for books so I knew they'd be supporting a load. French cleats made from 3/4" ply and screwed to the wall with 1/4" lag bolts. They're not going anywhere.

[Mark Blatter]

Mostly I like using Wurth screws. I usually use a #8, self tapping with the nibs on the inside of the head. That makes it easy to drive them in without pre-drilling and they counter-sink by themselves. I have not had any issues going through maple face frames to screw base cabinets together. Uppers I will also use the rounded / molded screw cups, but double them up. They give a much better look. Use a #8 and 3" long.

http://www.fastenerdata.co.uk/media/wysiwyg/product/washers/Slide24.JPG

[Bill Adamsen]

I use 1/2" cabinet backs glued and screwed into the sides. When possible, I spec continuous stud wall blocking at a height that allows consistent screw placement. I either use the GRK cabinet screw mentioned by the first person responding on this topic, or if trying to achieve a really sharp look, I pre-drill for a Frearson head bronze marine wood screw and use a bronze washer. They are very strong, reasonably hard, corrosion resistant, and look sharp. Because they are reasonably hard, I can typically I can drive without bunging the head (unlike a stainless).

[scott vroom]

3" sq drive washer heads to hang them and GRK trim heads to pull FF's together. Length of trim head depends on FF width. As others have stated, I clamp the FF's then pre-drill. If possible hide the trim head behind a hinge.