Jointer push blocks

[mark mcfarlane]

For those of you who actually use push blocks on the jointer, what kind are you using and what do you like/dislike.

I am contemplating the MICROJIG GRR-RIP BLOCK (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DNX3N7S/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I3S2RQ0EXNVBBN&colid=2MX6NNPHAO36), but wonder if there are better ones.

I do not need anything for my slider, only for the jointer.

Thanks,

[Frankie Hunt]

I have a pair of those. They are great! The rubber is very "grippy". The auto retracting heels work good. I'm very satisfied with that purchase.

[Lee Schierer]

Here is the push block that I inherited for my6" jointer. It works really well. However, you can't buy one, but it should be pretty easy to make.
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367055

The hole near the front is for hanging it on a nail....

[Mel Fulks]

I don't always use push blocks ...but when I do I use a wood block about 3 by 4 inches with several nail points sticking out about an eighth ,and with corners and edges rounded enough to be comfortable to palm. Since I face with convex side down I want to know I've got good contact between board and machine.

[Larry Anderson]

What about sandpaper on the bottom?

[Mel Fulks]

I don't like to use sandpaper on anything that has not had all of its dressing and shaping. "Grit BAD" for sharp steel

[Darcy Warner]

I use the grriper ones. I face up to and sometimes over 24" on my 30" jointer with them. Also useful at the bandsaw

[Warren Lake]

Mels right about sandpaper around sharp knives got crap once for machining something after it was stroke sanded. Jointer I tend to have a wet sponge and just dab my fingers and hand on that for traction. Ive done a fair bit of heal of my hand on the back edge of the board as well neither are ideal. This block has tons of use on it and a few battle scars, made from a mahogany off cut. It does have stick on 80 grit auto body sand paper on the bottom of it which is not ideal. There is nothing loose left on it I took it off at first before using it sanding sideways with it but agree with Mel better if it wasnt there. Simple and easy to make from an offcut and its strong and comfortable to the hand.

I just checked my smaller block from the little jointer. no sandpaper on the bottom and its not needed, the heel on the block rests on the wood and its fine on that one.


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[Bruce Wrenn]

Woodworker's Supply used to sell a push block that was very "grippy." I make my own, similar to what has been shown already. You could glue some shelf liner from Dollar Store to bottom of shop made ones. Good location to use spray on adhesive.

[Larry Copas]

With wide heavy boards and deep cuts I want something that grips. So....I used contact cement to glue a 15/16” board to some of those cheap push blocks. Before gluing I put some drywall screws through the wood. They never ever slip, guaranteed. These are so good I should get a patent.

367059

I have a couple variety’s of the push blocks with the rubber soles. They get sawdust on them and don't work. They wear out....if you use them. The rubber gets hard and cracks after a few, maybe more than a few years. I'll take my push blocks over any of those fancy ones.

[Earl Rumans]

I use a pair of the GRR-RIP blocks also and really like them. I haven't had one slip on me yet.

[mark mcfarlane]

Thanks everyone, I just ordered the GRR-RIP. I appreciate the homemade ones, and someday I'll probably make one, but I have a hundred small projects to do already getting the new shop running.

[Cary Falk]

Late to the party but I like my GRRR Rip Blocks

[John K Jordan]

Late to the party but I like my GRRR Rip Blocks

Me too. Get a pair.

[glenn bradley]

Another Grr-Rip block user. Others have come and gone but these just keep going. Cheaper in the long run.

[Matt Day]

Thx for this post, I didn't know about the grrr-rip blocks. Currently I have oem push blocks with mending plates on them per Prashun.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?237858-Better-Cheaper-Jointer-Push-Blocks

[Michael Alu]

I use the bench dog push blocks and I love them. At $9.99 on amazon, can't really beat it.

https://www.amazon.com/Bench-Dog-Tools-10-033-Push-Bloc/dp/B005HH1B9K

[Matt Day]

Michael, do you happen to know how the grip pad on the bench dog compares to the Grr-rip push blocks?

[Joe Calhoon]

I use shop made push blocks on the jointer. I just made a couple new ones as the one I had been using for 40 years was looking rough. Never tried a grr-rip but I know a lot of folks like them.
These shop made ones work well with the Suva guard. The one without the hook you push through while the left hand puts a little pressure down on the outfeed side. This one I like for shorter work with the guard in the overhead position..
367078

The one with a hook on the end I like better for long heavy timbers. The guard is in the side position when using this one.

367079

The little one attached to the Aigner block is good for short and narrow work with the guard in the overhead position.
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[Nick Decker]

Michael, do you happen to know how the grip pad on the bench dog compares to the Grr-rip push blocks?

Can't speak for Michael, but IMO the Grrr-rip blocks are much, well, grippier. The Bench Dog rubber grip seems much more susceptible to sawdust, and doesn't grip as well.

[Dan T Jones]

I also like the Grriper and Bench Dog but the best is a power feeder. I just started using one and can't tell you how it helps in jointing the face of boards. If you have a stack of boards to joint it is amazing.

BTW, I have a Hammer combination machine so the power feed can reach both the shaper and the jointer.

Dan

[Ted Reischl]

Don't have a jointer anymore, but when I did, always used push blocks. A coworker taught me to do that when he showed up one day with all four fingers on his left hand exactly the same length. He did not have to trim the nails on those fingers anymore. They were permanently trimmed.

Anyway, made a large push block out of white oak with a handle sticking up near one end and a knob on the front end for my left hand. Had a heel on the back.

Those grippers look good, but I wish some of these companies would quit saving on plastic and give the fingers a bit more clearance above spinning blades.

[Michael Alu]

Michael, do you happen to know how the grip pad on the bench dog compares to the Grr-rip push blocks?

I haven't used a Grr-rip push block, but I can say that I've had these pads for a year now and they still haven't slipped on me. Very comfortable to use as well. I'm sure some other people have given these a try as well.

[Bill Dindner]

I have an Incra push block, very nice quality. Was not that happy with the pair that came with my Jet Jointer.

[glenn bradley]

Michael, do you happen to know how the grip pad on the bench dog compares to the Grr-rip push blocks?

I have both. The Bench Dog version is on a par with others of that size. They do well with lighter stock and I sometimes prefer them at the router table for detail work. After some period of use mine began to slip on heavier material despite cleanings and other "renew" methods. I have seen folks cut a bit of the rubber off the tail end of them and epoxy a wooden "heel" onto them; nice tip. The Grr-Rip pads are a bit large so they can be awkward for smaller work. Like a lot of things, there is no one answer. They work well for me on large or heavy stock which is mostly what I am pushing across a jointer. The old adage of "the right tool for the job" can apply to push blocks, sticks and pads as well it seems.

[Matt Day]

Thanks for the comprarison and description of the pads. Th Grr-rip pads might be on my birthday list.

[Prashun Patel]

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?237858-Better-Cheaper-Jointer-Push-Blocks&highlight=Push&p=2525661#post2525661

I made these a year and a half ago and like them very much

[Bill Adamsen]

I'm using a shop made version similar to what Lee and Joe are showing. Looking for something grippy for long material and just ordered the GRRR Rip Block. Thanks for the thread!

[Neil Gaskin]

I really like the grr rip blocks we have. I use them more than anything else. When the bottom gets not so sticky clean with simple green and it comes back.

[Nick Decker]

I'm using a shop made version similar to what Lee and Joe are showing. Looking for something grippy for long material and just ordered the GRRR Rip Block. Thanks for the thread!

Bill,

I recently made a push block and put some of this stuff on the bottom (item C) ...

http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?cat=1,43456,43465&p=67844

Not as good as the stuff on the Grrr-ip Blocks, but it works pretty well. It'd be nice if we could buy the stuff on their blocks, to make custom sized ones, but I doubt that's gonna happen. :)

[Dan Forman]

I saw something like these in use in a Youtube video, made a couple and they work very well. Just jointed a 2x4 on both faces for splinter control, then jointed an edge, ran the top edges across a round over bit for comfort, stapled some no slip shelf liner for better hand grip, and glued a little stop block on the end. Pictured are a short and medium length, a longer one is in the works for longer stock. 367167

I find them so much easier to use than blocks. My problem with blocks was that often times the downward force needed to get traction between block and board resulted in to much friction between board and table, which combined with the resistance of board to cutter head, made face jointing a struggle, especially with wider boards. With these, most of my energy goes into moving the board forward rather than pushing down.

I also found that going hand over hand with blocks sometimes resulted in little peaks and valleys related to the hand changing, whereas these seem to maintain more consistent pressure over the length of the board. All of the downward force is still applied over the out feed table, and the boards are coming out flat.

Dan

[Roger Davis]

Check out this article by Finewoodworking contributing editor Roland Johnson on using a coarse rubber float as a push block. I use them and they really work. http://www.finewoodworking.com/2017/08/07/push-pads-actually-work-ready.

Roger Davis

[Nick Decker]

Cool. The sound you hear is me going out the door, headed to Lowes...

[mark mcfarlane]

I saw something like these in use in a Youtube video, made a couple and they work very well. Just jointed a 2x4 on both faces for splinter control, then jointed an edge, ran the top edges across a round over bit for comfort, stapled some no slip shelf liner for better hand grip, and glued a little stop block on the end. Pictured are a short and medium length, a longer one is in the works for longer stock. 367167

I find them so much easier to use than blocks. My problem with blocks was that often times the downward force needed to get traction between block and board resulted in to much friction between board and table, which combined with the resistance of board to cutter head, made face jointing a struggle, especially with wider boards. With these, most of my energy goes into moving the board forward rather than pushing down.

I also found that going hand over hand with blocks sometimes resulted in little peaks and valleys related to the hand changing, whereas these seem to maintain more consistent pressure over the length of the board. All of the downward force is still applied over the out out feed table, and the boards are coming out flat.

Dan

This look awesome, thanks Dan for sharing.

[Matt Day]

Dan,
With those shop made push blocks, what do you use if you're jointing say a 6' board?

[andy bessette]

...what do you use if you're jointing say a 6' board?

Just use your hands for edge jointing a wide board.

[Dan Forman]

Dan,
With those shop made push blocks, what do you use if you're jointing say a 6' board?

To paraphrase Roy Scheider in that movie about a big fish---

"You're going to need a bigger block."

My infeed table is only 37" long. I like to keep as much of the work on the table if possible, so I break down longer boards before jointing if full length isn't required. If it is, especially with a wider board, I would make a new block a foot longer than the board in question, so that the next time I needed to joint a 7' board, I wouldn't have to make yet another block. Of course, I could also start with a more conventional block for the first foot or two until one of my existing blocks could reach.

I would probably rig up some infeed and outfeed support for anything greater than twice the length of the outfeed table, as the extra weight of a long push block in addition to the board itself could become unwieldy once the tipping point is reached.

I only use these for face jointing, most edge jointing is done by hand or with a less cumbersome push aid in the case of very narrow stock.

I also have one of the floats mentioned in Roger's post above, and they do work better than most blocks, but I still like these best.

Dan

[andy bessette]

...I break down longer boards before jointing if full length isn't required. If it is, especially with a wider board, I would make a new block a foot longer than the board in question...

Oh come on!

[Darcy Warner]

I have faced and edged 16' long stock on my 30" jointer. Tables are just over 8 feet total.
There is only one spot that matters on a jointer.

[Dan Forman]

Well, to each his own :) .

The whole point of this thread is that some folks are struggling with trying to solve the friction problem - not enough friction in the blocks to overcome the friction of the board against the table resulting from pushing down on the board to generate enough friction... and so on.

This style of block basically takes the friction out of the equation, or minimizes it by reducing the downward force necessary to move the board along, Almost all of the force required is lateral, which simply makes the work much easier. In order to do that, the block needs to reach the end of the board, so the block needs to be long enough to do that. Really, any piece of lumber with one jointed edge could be used in a pinch, just glue a little block on the end for the "hook", though anything aver a few inches tall would be ungainly.

Some of the folks here are talking about getting extra Grrrippers at $60 a crack, even the red floats are $20.00 a pair. A 2X4 is just a few bucks, and in my experience is much more pleasant to use. What's not to like? The only disadvantage is that I need a few different lengths and a place to put them.

Dan

[Dan Forman]

There is only one spot that matters on a jointer.

I reckon if that were true our jointer tables would be made of Chinese plywood instead of milled cast iron. :)

Dan

[Darcy Warner]

I reckon if that were true our jointer tables would be made of Chinese plywood instead of milled cast iron. :)

Dan

The only spot that matters is the outfeed table right after the cutter head. No other place anywhere on the tables that requires any pressure or force exerted.

It's a planer, upside down and you are the pressure bar and out feed roll.

Wax your tables. Lumber almost slides too well on my jointer. I will wax before any big facing job, especially when I am dealing with stuff 20 to 30 inches wide.

[Dan Forman]

The only spot that matters is the outfeed table right after the cutter head. No other place anywhere on the tables that requires any pressure or force exerted.

True as far as it goes, but if that's all there was to it, a board could be flattened in a planer (without a sled), and a jointer wouldn't be required. A planer depends on one flat face to do it's job, the jointer depends on flat, coplaner tables to make that face flat for the planer.

A lot of this depends on how flat your rough stock is. If reasonably flat to begin with, you can get away with breaking a lot more of the "rules". But the more bowed or twisted long stock is, the more things like table length and flatness come in to play.

Dan

[andy bessette]

...the jointer depends on flat, coplaner tables...

Well...almost. :)

[John Cole]

Check out this article by Finewoodworking contributing editor Roland Johnson on using a coarse rubber float as a push block. I use them and they really work. http://www.finewoodworking.com/2017/08/07/push-pads-actually-work-ready.

Roger Davis

I've started to use these also and find they work really well.

[Warren Lake]

"I also found that going hand over hand with blocks sometimes resulted in little peaks and valleys related to the hand changing, whereas these seem to maintain more consistent pressure over the length of the board. All of the downward force is still applied over the infeed table, and the boards are coming out flat. " Dan


Hand over hand works fine thats using hands there will be no peaks and valleys. THe long board how can it maintain constant pressure is your wood straight and parrallel before the jointer? "all of the downward forces is appllied over the infeed" ????? You mean the outfeed? are you putting your boards down convex or concave side as your block is not going to sit flat on a convex board. Putting your board down on the convex side then your block on the concave side might have a tendency to push the board down a little flat with pressure only on the ends. I also think your design would not be great if fingers ever wandered down the board.

Darcy stated it right the work is done on the outfeed. Ive done 14-16 footers on 69" total table length with multiple roller support front and rear those rollers reduce friction to the level there was hardly any hand feeding is simple and easy with that set up and safe.

[Dan Forman]

Oops, I definitely meant pressure goes to the outfeed table! Sorry about that, I can see how it would cause some confusion. I'll ask a mod to edit that.

I guess all I can say is that it works very well for me. You might have to actually try it to see how it feels. The block really exerts less downward force than a pair of blocks do, at least for me. I follow all of the usual jointing procedures, bowed board is convex side up, both ends down on the table. My hands are never directly over the cutter head, as soon as there is enough of the board on the outfeed side, that's where I am, pulling the whole thing toward me. The block isn't heavy enough to spring the board, and I'm not putting enough downward force on it to spring it because I am basically pulling and not pushing down to get it to move, just using enough downforce to maintain control.

If I was worried about springing the board in the middle, I could actually remove all downward force, and still keep the board moving forward by maintaining contact at the rear. Can't do that with standard blocks. It really feels a lot like edge jointing - there is not a lot of downward force applied there either, mostly just dragging it along laterally. It kind of feels like having a helper back there pushing it along for you. Again, it's hard to convey this in words, but I encourage anyone to try it and see for yourself, won't cost you much, and you might like it. I suspect it would not be practical for really long stuff, but for most of what I do it will work fine.

Dan

[Rod Sheridan]

This one is pretty grippy:D

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regards, Rod.