temp

[stan kern]

noticed last sat the temperature readout on the chiller unit was as high as 35 C andhat sortf bothered m.
So the next day I cleaned all the filters on the chiller unit and topped it up a bit more to just under 6 litres on the level gage

i have been noticing lately that the temp has been running high, opposite for me in the winter
We are having a warm summer but still I thought this chiller unit would keep the temp around 26 C
Any ideas out there

[Matt McCoy]

If it's an active unit, it's likely losing refrigerant.

[Doug Fisher]

How warm is the room in which the chiller and laser are running? Do you have a CW3000 cooling system or a 5000 (or higher) true chiller? Answering these questions should allow us to give you relevant reply. Otherwise, we are just guessing.

If you have a 3000 cooler, it can never get your water temp lower than the ambient temperature of the room because it is just a radiator and doesn't have a compressor like a true chiller.

[stan kern]

I have the 5000

[Doug Fisher]

Then I think the first place I would start would be to confirm the temperature readout is actually accurate. Let the chiller run for a while to give it time to get the water to the indicated temp. Shut it off for a moment. Disconnect the output tube from the chiller where it connects into the back of the laser. Hold the open tube into a large peanut butter size jar. Fire up the chiller but be prepared to turn it off quick depending on the flow rate (maybe get another person to help). Pump the jar at least half full (if the stream is really weak or not at all then that would indicate your pump is very likely the problem). Use a quick read digital thermometer to get a temp reading and see how it compares to the temp indicated by the chiller. If they are close to the same I would then start researching how you would test the level of R-134a in the chiller.

That is how I would start but others may chime in with better ideas.

[Matt McCoy]

Then I think the first place I would start would be to confirm the temperature readout is actually accurate. Let the chiller run for a while to give it time to get the water to the indicated temp. Shut it off for a moment. Disconnect the output tube from the chiller where it connects into the back of the laser. Hold the open tube into a large peanut butter size jar. Fire up the chiller but be prepared to turn it off quick depending on the flow rate (maybe get another person to help). Pump the jar at least half full (if the stream is really weak or not at all then that would indicate your pump is very likely the problem). Use a quick read digital thermometer to get a temp reading and see how it compares to the temp indicated by the chiller. If they are close to the same I would then start researching how you would test the level of R-134a in the chiller.

That is how I would start but others may chime in with better ideas.

I think if it's a pump failure, the internal alarm would beep on the chiller. My guess is either the refrigerant has leaked out or the compressor is not operating properly. I would double-check that the fans are blowing and that the unit is clean. Then inspect the capacitor on the compressor and look for oil residue. If all checks out OK, you probably have a leak.

[stan kern]

thanks all , will do all the above

[Bill George]

When checking make sure the compressor is actually running. It may be a control issue. Speaking from a person who made a career out of refrigeration work, its rare today for a sealed unit as a chiller to have a refrigerant leak. All the joints are silver brazed and tested before shipping. If you do have a leak its a sudden and fast one, as a line cracked or cap tube broken.

[Matt McCoy]

...its rare today for a sealed unit as a chiller to have a refrigerant leak...

I had one. Did troubleshooting with the manufacturer and Rabbit. Had to have it tapped and filled.

[Bill George]

I had one. Did troubleshooting with the manufacturer and Rabbit. Had to have it tapped and filled.

Where was the leak? Did the repairperson braze in a permanent access valve after the repair?

[Matt McCoy]

Where was the leak? Did the repairperson braze in a permanent access valve after the repair?

It was on the low side, which is also where a valve was installed.

[John Noell]

Has a 5200 that lost refrigerant. Corrosion in just 3 years. Same symptoms, just would not cool adequately, The company was very helpful in diagnosing problem.

[Doug Fisher]

John, were you able to get the unit repaired or did you have to replace it?

[Kev Williams]

35c is 95f, that's some hot water- if the room is cooler than 95, then your chiller is actually heating the water. If the compressor is running with no refrigeration output the heat generated by unit is going to be absorbed by the water its pumping, exactly the reverse of what you want-- you'd be better off in the short term to buy an $8 waterfall pump and pump in and out of a water bucket until you can fix or replace the chiller--

FWIW I've used a 3000 chiller on my Triumph since I got it. Because it's hard to keep the garage workshop below 80° when it's 100° out, I connected 25' of coiled-up (to about a foot in diameter) copper tubing to the pump lines, and I set the coil in a medium size storage container about half full of water. A fresh 5 gal of water from the water tap (around 55°) and I have 21c water for a couple of hours, when it gets close to 24 I add a 2 quart bowl of ice and I'm good for 2 more hours. Since it's not constantly 'in service' it works well for me...

[Dave Sheldrake]

a common fault with the 5000 and some of the 5200's

It's a dissimilar metal issue causing electrolytic corrosion on the coils where they joing the pump pipework