Synthetic steel wool

[David Ragan]

Hi all,
What artificial steel wool do you like best?
Am going to have a run @ French polish-on scrap of course
I have the 4-0 oil-less real stuff (brand escapes me), but would like to try this
Amazon reviews are all over the place

Thanks guys

[Steve Schoene]

Mirkla has a good reputation.

But, my question is how do you expect to use steel wool in French polishing? I have used real (lambs) wool as filling for the fad but not steel wool anywhere.

[Doug Hepler]

David,

I do not know of a French polishing method that uses steel wool (metallic or synthetic). As regards synthetic steel wool the 3M and Norton stuff are probably good. I think the last time I bought some it was from Highland Woodworking. I have never been aware of any quality issues with any of the stuff that I have bought, but I tend to trust 3M and Norton

Doug.

[David Ragan]

Mirkla has a good reputation.

But, my question is how do you expect to use steel wool in French polishing? I have used real (lambs) wool as filling for the fad but not steel wool anywhere.

Jeff Jewitt in an article for FWW (It's in the book "Traditional Finishing Techniques"), it was for knocking any raised grain after the first coat of shellac.....Jeff also says in his Taunton book "Complete Illustrated Guide to Finishing" that "After the surface dries, rub out any application marks using fine sandpaper followed by 0000 steel wool."

[Wayne Lomman]

Steel wool is a bad idea for polishing. You get much better results and much less contamination using the correct type and grade of sand paper. Try getting rust spots out of timber and you will know what I mean. Cheers

[Doug Hepler]

David,

Obviously, you have done some homework. If you are thinking of the article, Rubbing Out a Finish, which appeared in the July/August 1996 issue of FWW, Jewitt was describing how to do the final hand rubbing on a variety of finishes.

I sometimes have used steel wool to knock off the gloss from a final coat. I personally would not use steel wool (or synthetic) between coats because it tends to ride over nibs and boogers instead of cutting them down. I cautiously use fine sandpaper (320 grit) to smooth early coats. The procedure I use (after many coats) for final polishing is similar to the one that Jewitt describes in that 1996 article. In fact, that article and Jeff were very influential to my finishing style.

I don't intend to be picky but your reference to French polishing meant something different to me than it apparently does to you. To me, French polishing involves repeated application of shellac with a pad, rubbing each application continuously until the shellac is hard and shiny. Some people use a bit of pumice, but there is no sanding between coats as there would be with brushed on shellac. The friction smooths each coat.

To get back to your original question, I have never found any synthetic steel wool that was unacceptable. Get it from a reputable woodworking supplier and you will probably be satisfied.

Doug

[Bill Adamsen]

Bronze wool is expensive, but avoids the risk of corrosion.

[David Ragan]

David,

Obviously, you have done some homework. If you are thinking of the article, Rubbing Out a Finish, which appeared in the July/August 1996 issue of FWW, Jewitt was describing how to do the final hand rubbing on a variety of finishes.

I sometimes have used steel wool to knock off the gloss from a final coat. I personally would not use steel wool (or synthetic) between coats because it tends to ride over nibs and boogers instead of cutting them down. I cautiously use fine sandpaper (320 grit) to smooth early coats. The procedure I use (after many coats) for final polishing is similar to the one that Jewitt describes in that 1996 article. In fact, that article and Jeff were very influential to my finishing style.

I don't intend to be picky but your reference to French polishing meant something different to me than it apparently does to you. To me, French polishing involves repeated application of shellac with a pad, rubbing each application continuously until the shellac is hard and shiny. Some people use a bit of pumice, but there is no sanding between coats as there would be with brushed on shellac. The friction smooths each coat.

To get back to your original question, I have never found any synthetic steel wool that was unacceptable. Get it from a reputable woodworking supplier and you will probably be satisfied.

Doug

Thank you for your patience w me Doug....as you suspect, I have no idea what I am doing, and am not completely familiar w the terminology.

Valuable knowledge is normally only gleaned from making mistakes....how well those of us in WW know this timeless truth-but ironically get caught up in the futility of not making any at all.

I am relieved that steel wool is not absolutely required, as it seems like an unnecessary risk for foreign material that will rust in the finish.

Before I go to (likely) ruining some hardwood scraps, my next question is:

I have read about using BLO on the wood before the first coat of shellac. So-that is a light even coat of BLO after the surface is 100% prepared & "flawless".......how long do I need to wait before my first coat of shellac?

Am using superblond dewaxed 1.5 lb cut I mixed myself this last week. Will use special cloths, etc for the rubber. (A few years ago, Kent Bathurst gave me a valuable personal lesson in mixing, using the rubber, etc. It cost me a case of IPA Ranger beer at the time, and a trip into Metro Atlanta.)

PS-The article I referenced is May/June 1995.

Thanks for your help!

[Doug Hepler]

David,

OK. We are now on the same page. Yes, this article is sort of describing French polishing, without the elbow grease (and the anxiety). I read this years ago but had forgotten the details.

Depending on conditions (temperature, mostly) BLO should be dry enough overnight. If the surface feels soft, sticky, etc put it in the sunlight for a few minutes and check it again. Don't leave it out in the Atlanta sunlight too long after it has dried. My two cents: brush or pad on the BLO, when you think it has penetrated as much as it will (say, 10-20 min) scrub it off. A thick coat of BLO will not add anything but prolonged drying time. (Open the oily rag and let it cure hanging in the air. Don't bunch it up and throw it in the trash until it has cured.) Lightly scuff sand with 320 paper, dust it off, and begin padding the shellac. Another two cents: as I said before, I do not feel that the synthetic steel wool will add much between coats. Lightly scuff sand with 320 grit to knock off nibs and boogers. You can use steel wool for the final rubbing out, and then I would use the synthetic equivalent of 0000 (in my experience this has been white). Follow that with a coat of paste wax and buff.

Best of luck.

Doug