Best sander for uneven joints?

[James Spillman]

I need a sander that will help me level joints that are uneven after glue up. I have been using a Festool PRO 125 orbital sander for the most part. The sander is a pleasure to use and produces a fine result. The problem is that it takes a long time to finish the process. I realize a belt sander would do the job a lot faster. However I'm not a big fan of using a belt sander on furniture. Anyone here have a favorite tool for sanding uneven joints?

[Charles Lent]

You don't want a belt sander for leveling joints. Your joints should not be that far out of line if you are making them right. A random orbit sander will do a great job if you start with a coarse grit disk and work your way toward finer grits as you progress. You might only use one grit for a couple of minutes before changing to the next finer grit. This is not a one grit does all situation. Fortunately, Velcro backed sandpaper lets you change easily and lets you re-use disks that have not been worn out yet for the next job. Before Velcro backed was available I had a different sander for each grit to keep from ruining the sticky backed paper before it was worn out. Five different sanders lined up in a row with different grit paper on each one.

A random orbit sander will cut very fast if the right grit is used. Then progress to finer and finer to remove the scratches left by the preceding grit, but be certain to clean or blow off any remaining previous grit befor beginning with the next finer grit. If your joints are 1/32 out of line, you may need to start with 60 grit disks and work up from there.

Also take the time to find out why your joints aren't fitting together better. Did you cut a tenon or biscuit from one side and then install it facing the other way? A tenon or biscuit that is almost centered can do this to you. Mark the face sides of all of your stock and then do all of your joint making by dimensioning from this same side.This will also help if all of your stock isn't exactly the same thickness, a problem when buying already milled material from Home Centers and Big Box stores.

Charley

[Jim Morgan]

Hand plane or card scraper.

[jack duren]

You don't want a belt sander for leveling joints. Your joints should not be that far out of line if you are making them right. A random orbit sander will do a great job if you start with a coarse grit disk and work your way toward finer grits as you progress. You might only use one grit for a couple of minutes before changing to the next finer grit. This is not a one grit does all situation. Fortunately, Velcro backed sandpaper lets you change easily and lets you re-use disks that have not been worn out yet for the next job. Before Velcro backed was available I had a different sander for each grit to keep from ruining the sticky backed paper before it was worn out. Five different sanders lined up in a row with different grit paper on each one.

A random orbit sander will cut very fast if the right grit is used. Then progress to finer and finer to remove the scratches left by the preceding grit, but be certain to clean or blow off any remaining previous grit befor beginning with the next finer grit. If your joints are 1/32 out of line, you may need to start with 60 grit disks and work up from there.

Also take the time to find out why your joints aren't fitting together better. Did you cut a tenon or biscuit from one side and then install it facing the other way? A tenon or biscuit that is almost centered can do this to you. Mark the face sides of all of your stock and then do all of your joint making by dimensioning from this same side.This will also help if all of your stock isn't exactly the same thickness, a problem when buying already milled material from Home Centers and Big Box stores.

Charley

there's a whole lot of yes and no to your comment according to whether they know how to first use it....

[jack duren]

If I can't use the overhead I use a belt sander...

[Mike Cutler]

I need a sander that will help me level joints that are uneven after glue up. I have been using a Festool PRO 125 orbital sander for the most part. The sander is a pleasure to use and produces a fine result. The problem is that it takes a long time to finish the process. I realize a belt sander would do the job a lot faster. However I'm not a big fan of using a belt sander on furniture. Anyone here have a favorite tool for sanding uneven joints?

James

I don't know exactly what type of joint you're needing to level, but I would first look for a block plane. After that it would be a belt sander, but they can really mess stuff up fast if you're not careful. A square palm sander, or random orbital, with an aggressive grit would be next choice.
Never discount what a nice sharp rasp can do either. ;)

[Bill Dindner]

I just "leveled" a through Mortise very quickly with 40 grit Granat paper in my Festool Rotex 125. That is one powerful sander.

[Mel Fulks]

Agree with Jack. Belt sander takes some skill ....and advice on technique. I've sanded many shop made entry doors with a belt sander better and faster than most single belt widebelt sanders. Sand stiles first ,then rails,then muntins. Since you are sanding with grain and getting no " steps" finishing off with orbital sander is easy. And you don't need two ,or more, guys to get it done. You just need to know where the sander flat area stops.

[John Kee]

Festool RO150 with a blue pad in aggressive mode, 80P or 100P Granat or Rubin2 sandpaper for leveling.

[Lee Schierer]

I need a sander that will help me level joints that are uneven after glue up. I have been using a Festool PRO 125 orbital sander for the most part. The sander is a pleasure to use and produces a fine result. The problem is that it takes a long time to finish the process. I realize a belt sander would do the job a lot faster. However I'm not a big fan of using a belt sander on furniture. Anyone here have a favorite tool for sanding uneven joints?

When I get a joint that is uneven, I use my veritas apron plane to remove a thin shaving, which is much faster than trying to sand down any height difference.

[Frederick Skelly]

Hand plane or card scraper.

+1. Personally, I can control a plane better than a sander. YMMV.

[Cary Falk]

I would used a belt sander. I have 3 different sizes. I can control them better than a plane. YMMV.

[James Spillman]

I would like to try a Festool RO 90 for this task. If you know anyone willing to sell one let me know.

[John Kee]

I would like to try a Festool RO 90 for this task. If you know anyone willing to sell one let me know.

Too small a pad surface area, would be difficult get a smooth and consistent result. IMHO and many others not one of Festool best offerings.

[Bill McNiel]

I would like to try a Festool RO 90 for this task. If you know anyone willing to sell one let me know.

Given that you already have a 125 ETS why not get the RO 125 so you can economize on sandpaper? I tested one at the Festool Roadshow this weekend and it appears to nicely fill the void between belt sander and random orbit.

[Dennis Putnam]

I use a table belt sander first to get the majority then the orbital sander to finish it.

[glenn bradley]

Obviously a few schools of thought here. Here's mine . . . Improve your stock prep or your methods to make misalignment very minor. Once accomplished, this will leave you within a card scraper or a hand plane's ability to quickly bring things into an even plane. Its easy to say "go get experienced" but, the fact is it take time and care to hone your skills.

If we are talking about panel glue ups, a ROS is the fastest route to an uneven field this side of a belt sander. This may not be the topic of discussion as you are asking about leveling joints. However, an aggressive ROS run over a flat plain does not yield what many consider a flat surface. A ROS for initial roughing or for final 'polishing' is more likely in my shop.

Not all pieces require a super flat field to yield a good result. Sheet goods often go from the saw to the spray room with minimal surface preparation. A thick film finish on the surface will make a lot of surfaces acceptable. Some more detail into what your are making and how may get you better responses if the preceding posts (mine included) are missing the specific thing you are after.