Unisaw extension table help needed for built in router table

[John Beonme]

Hi Guys,

I recently purchased a 34-802 Type 2 Unisaw with a 52" Unifence. There was a a PB attached as the extension table but since it was damaged in transit I have completely removed it. I would like to use 3/4" MDF with laminate (assuming on both sides?) as the new table top and in addition would like to add a router table to the end of the table. My concern is if this will be sturdy enough to support a router. There are 2 angle bars but only one of them is attached only to the Unifence, the other is just attached to the table saw top with only 1 screw. The table top is attached to the table saw using 3 angle brackets and then attached to the legs towards the end. I drew an illustration explaining this, please let me know if I should make any modifications or if this should be strong enough.
366809

Thanks in advance

[Jim Becker]

John, there's no issue using the MDF and laminate for the top, but I suggest you build a sturdy frame under it to insure it stays flat once that router/lift/fence is installed within it. 1.5" solid wood or plywood framing will do the job nicely and you can glue the MDF to it prior to laminating in case you want to laminate the edges first before doing the top.

[andy bessette]

I repurposed an old cast iron table saw top to add a router table to my Unisaw.

[John Beonme]

John, there's no issue using the MDF and laminate for the top, but I suggest you build a sturdy frame under it to insure it stays flat once that router/lift/fence is installed within it. 1.5" solid wood or plywood framing will do the job nicely and you can glue the MDF to it prior to laminating in case you want to laminate the edges first before doing the top.

Hi Jim,
Are you referring to a torsion box frame? I've seen a few posts where people were doing that. What kind of solid wood should I use? I have a bunch of 3/4" plywood boards I can also cut into 1.5" strips if that's strong enough.

[John Beonme]

Jim,
I just remembered that I have a full sheet of 1.5" sheet of acrylic. Would it be possible to use only that? Though it may be kind of ugly, unless I can still cover it with Formica.

[Charles Lent]

I have considered this on my Unisaw with 52" Unifence, and decided that if I add a router it is going in a cast iron extension on the opposite end of the Unisaw and I'll use a router table fence when using it. Peachtree Woodworking www.ptreeusa.com carries one of these extensions for the Unisaw. https://www.ptreeusa.com/tablesaw_router_wing.html

Another possibility being considered is replacing the Unifence extension table with the Sommerfeld Router Table Top and fence. At present, I am leaning in this direction.
http://sommerfeldtools.com/professional-equipment-and-tools/routers-tables-stands-accessories/router-tables-and-tops

Although both are considerable money, they will both be very strong and not sag over time. Any wood or composite replacement for the Unifence table will require significant bracing to keep it from sagging and will not be easy to do. The Sommerfeld table will fit between the Unifence rail and the back rail of the table, but will require either a Delta cast iron table extension or a short wood filler table between the Unisaw top and the Sommerfeld table, but a piece of the original table top could be used for this since it won't need to hold any weight.

I haven't come to a decision on this yet.


Charley

[jack duren]

Hi Guys,

I recently purchased a 34-802 Type 2 Unisaw with a 52" Unifence. There was a a PB attached as the extension table but since it was damaged in transit I have completely removed it. I would like to use 3/4" MDF with laminate (assuming on both sides?) as the new table top and in addition would like to add a router table to the end of the table. My concern is if this will be sturdy enough to support a router. There are 2 angle bars but only one of them is attached only to the Unifence, the other is just attached to the table saw top with only 1 screw. The table top is attached to the table saw using 3 angle brackets and then attached to the legs towards the end. I drew an illustration explaining this, please let me know if I should make any modifications or if this should be strong enough.
366809

Thanks in advance

Router plate or no plate?

Particle board would be better than MDF...

[andy bessette]

The Unifence works for both my Unisaw and router table extension. The repurposed table saw top was adapted using 1" x 1" aluminum square bar.

366828

[John Beonme]

Router plate or no plate?

Particle board would be better than MDF...

I prefer to get a plate so I can change out collars as needed. Wouldn't PB be bad to cut the grooves for t-track?

[John Beonme]

I have considered this on my Unisaw with 52" Unifence, and decided that if I add a router it is going in a cast iron extension on the opposite end of the Unisaw and I'll use a router table fence when using it. Peachtree Woodworking www.ptreeusa.com (http://www.ptreeusa.com) carries one of these extensions for the Unisaw. https://www.ptreeusa.com/tablesaw_router_wing.html

Another possibility being considered is replacing the Unifence extension table with the Sommerfeld Router Table Top and fence. At present, I am leaning in this direction.
http://sommerfeldtools.com/professional-equipment-and-tools/routers-tables-stands-accessories/router-tables-and-tops

Although both are considerable money, they will both be very strong and not sag over time. Any wood or composite replacement for the Unifence table will require significant bracing to keep it from sagging and will not be easy to do. The Sommerfeld table will fit between the Unifence rail and the back rail of the table, but will require either a Delta cast iron table extension or a short wood filler table between the Unisaw top and the Sommerfeld table, but a piece of the original table top could be used for this since it won't need to hold any weight.

I haven't come to a decision on this yet.


Charley
This is definitely the best option but I can't justify spending that much for something I will occasionally use.

[Derek Cohen]

I went through this exercise many years ago when adding a router table to a table saw. In fact, I am doing it again at this very moment, but this time the challenge is to add an extension to a Hammer K3 Winner.

Below is the old table saw. The router table addition is 1" chipboard with a laminate covering. Notice that it is attached to the fence rails. The underside is triangulated/reinforced with mild steel.

https://s19.postimg.org/pdgv3szvn/B7_zps79530b96.jpg

The router fence clamped to the table saw fence ...

https://s19.postimg.org/5k4rb3mhv/B8_zps4756371b.jpg

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Jim Becker]

Are you referring to a torsion box frame? I've seen a few posts where people were doing that. What kind of solid wood should I use? I have a bunch of 3/4" plywood boards I can also cut into 1.5" strips if that's strong enough.

You don't need to build a torsion box, but the frame would somewhat emulate that with an open bottom. The purpose of the framing is to support the top so that it will not sag over time or when weight is on it.

[Cary Falk]

I would make a torsion box out of plywood. Where the router will go leave out a portion of the torsion box and glue in an extra piece of particle board/mdf/plywood to keep from sagging.