How do I fix this cabinet squareness problem ?

[Joshua Bass]

I built cabinet carcasses (4 x 28x23") and despite being extremely carefull to get everything square using tracksaw, table saw, routers, dados, and glue up templates w/ clamps, the front edge is not straight across. The cabinet bows out in the center about 1/8 of an inch.

Any ideas out to fix this? I was thinking of ripping the top square using my tracksaw, but I have no idea how to handle the vertical portions of the cabinets.

https://i.imgur.com/v6fgD9P.jpg

Left top edge:

https://i.imgur.com/pOPRqKJ.jpg


Center top edge


https://i.imgur.com/BqaxaGS.jpg


right top edge:

https://i.imgur.com/vv4ss3l.jpg


View looking down:

https://i.imgur.com/rARWhbK.jpg

[Cary Falk]

A belt sander would handle the verticles. Does the back bow in 1/8"?

[jack duren]

Your top will straighten it back up....

[Joshua Bass]

A belt sander would handle the verticles. Does the back bow in 1/8"?

Yes the back bowes in slightly as well.

[Kevin Jenness]

If your doubled sides are not glued together, insert some shims between them at the back.

If the bottom decks show, they will look neater if you put the pocket holes on the underside.

[Joe Adams]

Frankly, I wouldn't worry about it. I've seen cabinet runs far more out of alignment that look just fine once you have a countetop installed.

[Mark W Pugh]

Is a face frame being added or is it Euro style?

[Joshua Bass]

If your doubled sides are not glued together, insert some shims between them at the back.

If the bottom decks show, they will look neater if you put the pocket holes on the underside.

The cabinets will be drawers only (no doors). So the pocket holes will not show. I may try the shimming idea. Thanks.

[Joshua Bass]

Is a face frame being added or is it Euro style?

I've debated this for awhile, but I think i will face frame it just to hide the plywood edges.

[johnny means]

Where's the install going to be. Typically, a run like that is installed in a straight line. How they fit together in the shop is off no consequence, because the installation conditions have not been replicated in the shop. Box store cabinets are even produced to be wider in the front than in the back. The cabinets are then screwed together in the front and the backs are screwed to the walls any spaces in between the cabinets in the back are of little consequence.

[Wayne Lomman]

I agree with Johnny. The final installation will be what counts and then you pack/shim to suit. Curious as to why pocket screws used. It's much simpler to tack nail and screw through the end panels. Also a solid edge strip will take care of the exposed ply edges but I haven't believed in face frames for about 35 years. Cheers

[Mark W Pugh]

I've debated this for awhile, but I think i will face frame it just to hide the plywood edges.

I guess you could shim the FF to a straight front. Trim out the ends to hide shims. I'm assuming there's not enough bend to affect the slides?

[Jim Dwight]

I wouldn't straighten anything until you know how the fitup to the wall affects the straightness. I am almost done installing 28 KraftMaid kitchen cabinets. They go in both directions to follow the walls. The fronts are flush to each other but the backs go in and out following the wall. Houses are not totally straight and level. Our kitchen floor is about 1/16 per foot out of level. My wife was surprised by that but I am not. I think that is pretty good for a 50 year old house. These look like garage cabinets so it should be even more out of level.

So I would install first and then re-evaluate. Your counter top should also cover this as has been mentioned.

[Justin Ludwig]

You're worrying about nothing.

1. The floor where you install will not be perfect. You have to use shims to level the tops.
2. The walls where you install will not be perfect. You have to use shims to level the faces.
3. Installing cabinets is a learned endeavor with a 100 tricks. I can install 8 boxes in the time it takes my help (working with me for 2 years) to install 2 vanities.

Don't go to shaving or belt sanding. Watch some vids on how to install cabinets. PM me if you get stuck and I'll give you my phone number. I could walk you through a bunch steps while you're standing in front them scratching your head.

I've installed cabinets on floors that are out of level 1-1/4" in 8 feet and walls that are out of plumb 5/8" in 6 feet. I hate to use scribe moldings and fillers, but sometimes scribes are necessary because other people cut their corners.

[Steve Demuth]

I'm not sure why it's a problem at all. First, do the math - if the bow is due entirely to width irregularities, your cabinet sides are out square on average about 1/32". You didn't do badly at all. Second, you can fix it easily when you install them. You'll quite likely find the wall they sit against is further from straight than your cabinets, anyway. Finally, if the wall is perfectly straight, the flor is perfectly flat, and you don't do anything to adjust the cabinets, the bow won't show anyway, once you've put the counter on.

[Gregory King]

Joshua: I doubt that the floor on which the cabinet is now sitting on is level. Could be a tad high near the center. Leave the cabinet alone. If you are building frameless cabinets in the future , why don't you try and install hardwood edging first.

[jack duren]

You have asked this question on several forums. If you cut the parts as square as possible and all the correct lengths then there is nothing to change.

You start altering correctly cut parts and you'll open a can of worms...

[Martin Wasner]

Throw it in a dumpster

Make it a single box.

You just eliminated a whole mess of variables.