Plane handle snapping?

[Michael J Evans]

I have a wooden jack I posted about a few months back. I did nothing more than camber / sharpen the blade and true the sole when I got it. It has turned into by far my favorite plane all around but in particular for rough dimensioning, until a few days ago when the handle snapped...

I was using it as normal and went to lessen the cutting depth by striking it where the strike button would normally be. My usual routine is to hold it from the underside in my Palm (in the middle) and whack it with a mallet.

So all was good until the handle snapped off across the grain about midway up while adjusting. So I just glued it back in place and used some tape to hold it down. Fast forward to last night. Went out tested the glue joint and was planing away as normal. Adjusted the iron a few times all was good. Another half hour goes by went to adjust the iron again and handle snaps off, again across the grain but this time below the fixed portion, right at the base.

Sorry for the long story, but I'm just curious am I holding the plane wrong or something when adjusting? Why the hell did it snap again and not even at the glue joint?

Thanks,
Michael.

[Lee Schierer]

Why the hell did it snap again and not even at the glue joint?

Thanks,
Michael.

I can't tell you why it broke, but glue joints are often stronger than the wood itself.

[Jim Koepke]

Sorry for the long story, but I'm just curious am I holding the plane wrong or something when adjusting? Why the hell did it snap again and not even at the glue joint?

Thanks,
Michael.

If as you describe there is nothing hitting the handle and you are holding the plane on the underside, the only thing that seems to be left to cause breakage is bad wood in the handle. Maybe if you keep gluing it back together it will build its strength similar to glue infused wood.

Maybe instead of whacking it where the strike button would normally be, whack it at the back of the plane.

jtk

[Michael J Evans]

Think I answered my own question on this one. Went out and slow motion replayed my motion when adjusting. When holding it on the underside in my left hand, I use my fore arm to pin the plan against my ribs. Well if my hand is tilted at all towards my body, then the top of the handle rests on my ribs, combine that with a not so perfectly placed mallet strike all that force from the strike goes right against the top of the handle. Which maybe also explains why the break is higher on the right side than the left.

I glued it again, don't feel like attempting to make one yet. We'll see how it goes.

[Pat Barry]

Think I answered my own question on this one. Went out and slow motion replayed my motion when adjusting. When holding it on the underside in my left hand, I use my fore arm to pin the plan against my ribs. Well if my hand is tilted at all towards my body, then the top of the handle rests on my ribs, combine that with a not so perfectly placed mallet strike all that force from the strike goes right against the top of the handle. Which maybe also explains why the break is higher on the right side than the left.

I glued it again, don't feel like attempting to make one yet. We'll see how it goes.
I doubt that the way you hold it has anything to do with the handle breaking (are your ribs sore?). I suspect there were minute stress cracks there and now you discovered them. Those cracks should be along grain boundary lines - if they are crossing the grain then it would signify significant forces were applied (previous owner??). Glue it together and hope for the best. How are you clamping it tightly during the glue up? If not tightly clamped you could be in for repeat breakage.

[James Waldron]

[snip] How are you clamping it tightly during the glue up? If not tightly clamped you could be in for repeat breakage.

I think you missed that the second break was not in the glue joint. Clamping the first glue up was not a factor in the second break at all, and was sufficient. Qed.

[Jerry Olexa]

As Lee said, a Glued joint is often stronger than the wood itself....Not surprised.

[lowell holmes]

If I had experienced that, I would glue the handle together, drill a 1/2 hole into the end of the handle.
Then I would glue a hardwood dowel in the hole.

[Michael J Evans]

If I had experienced that, I would glue the handle together, drill a 1/2 hole into the end of the handle.
Then I would glue a hardwood dowel in the hole.

That sounds like a pretty good idea to me. If it breaks again I might just give it a try.
Thanks

[Michael J Evans]

The Second glue joint is holding up. Only did light planing tonight though and eased up on my mallet strikes.

[Michael J Evans]

Snapped again, that sucker literally popped off. Gonna give Lowell's suggestion a try.

[lowell holmes]

[QUOTE=lowell holmes;2719064]If I had experienced that, I would glue the handle together, drill a 1/2 hole into the end of the handle."


I did that once, I cut 1/2" out of the handle and glues a block in it's place.
I shaped and smoothed the maple insert and Voila, I have a nice #4 smoother with a racing stripe.
It also has a corrugated sole.
I had forgotten the event, old men tend to forget a lot.:confused:

[lowell holmes]

Michael,
I went out to the shop and examined the plane. It has a rose wood handle with a maple section in it.
This happened several years ago, so it is a good repair.
IIRC, I bought the plane with a broken tote and repaired the handle. It is a nice #3 Bailey with a corrugated sole.