First shop first dust collector...

[Brandon Hanley]

I recently had a 24x24 two-car two-story garage build and am going to use the bottom half for woodworking stuff. The left side holds mostly stuff that will stay in the same place like my big rolling tool box, air compressor, bench and staircase. The right half is where I am setting up most of the larger tools which for the most part all are on mobile bases so they can be stored against the wall and pulled out into the middle of the floor if needed. The upstairs I would like to use for other things.

So on that right side where the tools are is a 12 x 24 space where I would be installing the dust collector. This is a hobby only and will never make me a penny so I have no intention on spending thousands of dollars if I can make it work for Less. The current lineup of tools that I will need dust collection on are.
Cabinet saw
Router table
Lunchbox planer
Ridgid spindle sander

I don't see how I would hook up dust collection to a drill press or bandsaw or if that would even be necessary.

The question is will the single canister grizzly G0548zp Have enough CFM and filter enough fine dust or would I need the dual canister grizzly g0562zp at a minimum? I was also considering adding a super Dust Deputy in front of the single canister grizzly if it had enough CFM to spare and wasn't getting enough filtration.

[Brandon Hanley]

I should have added that I would be intending to close off the air flow to unused tools and only be using the dust collector hook up to 1 tool at a time

[Ben Rivel]

Have you read through Bill Pentz's website yet? It isnt an end all be all by any means, but there is a lot that can be learned there and should be studied before going down the dust collection rabbit hole.

[Andy Giddings]

Brandon, the single canister Grizzly's performance is fine for your set up based on your tools and your wishes to keep costs down. Like all DC's the performance is going to be impacted by your ductwork. As Ben states, going to Bill's site and spending time with the Excel static pressure calculator is worth it in terms of coming up with a duct design that is as efficient as you can make it. Putting in a cyclone will help keep your filter cleaning to a minimum. I would also avoid using the Grizzly 3 way 4 inch adaptor as that is going to impact performance.

There are a lot of threads on this site and elsewhere covering the addition of a Super Dust Deputy and turning the single stage DC (like the Grizzly) into a 2 stage. Bear in mind that if you think your woodworking dust producers (tool collection) are going to grow over a few years you may want to upgrade your DC in time. Most of us fall into two camps - spend the money on a really good DC that you can grow into or keep your DC costs down until you can afford something better later.

[Brandon Hanley]

What are the chances I would be happy with just the Dual canister grizzly? I have brown to the side and been looking at different threads all over the internet but being that I have never had a dust collector or even been in the presence of one a lot of what I'm reading doesn't really make much sense to me so it is hard for me to figure out.
I have no problems bringing for the Dual canister if that will do the job since the single canister and Dust Deputy would cost about the same amount as the Dual canister to begin with then later on I could always also add the Dust Deputy. I thought about just going straight to the $1,300 grizzly cyclone but I don't have the height for it and to put it outside isn't really possible because of how close my building is to the property line.

[John K Jordan]

...
I don't see how I would hook up dust collection to a drill press or bandsaw or if that would even be necessary.


My experience is connecting a DC to a wood-cutting bandsaw is well worth it. I have mine connected to my 18" bandsaw and it keeps the cabinet completely clear of sawdust plus an extra positionable hose picks up much of the dust on the top of the table from skimming cuts. I don't connect to the drill press.

JKJ

[Brandon Hanley]

As for ducting with my limited understanding I was just assuming I could run PVC pipe from the DC up to the ceiling then Branch It Off to spread openings throughout the one half with multiple shut-offs along the way so that I could just close off the ducting that goes to all but the pool I would currently be using at any given time and have Flex ducting coming off of the PVC down to the tool

[Andy Giddings]

What are the chances I would be happy with just the Dual canister grizzly? I have brown to the side and been looking at different threads all over the internet but being that I have never had a dust collector or even been in the presence of one a lot of what I'm reading doesn't really make much sense to me so it is hard for me to figure out.
I have no problems bringing for the Dual canister if that will do the job since the single canister and Dust Deputy would cost about the same amount as the Dual canister to begin with then later on I could always also add the Dust Deputy. I thought about just going straight to the $1,300 grizzly cyclone but I don't have the height for it and to put it outside isn't really possible because of how close my building is to the property line.

The main reason for a cyclone is separating out the dust so that your filter isn't clogged by the time you come to empty your bag. The dual will take longer to get clogged than the single and the larger impeller/motor will give you more suction. In the end, though, if you are producing a significant amount of chips/dust, your filters are going to get clogged without some sort of separator. If you're filling up the bags once every few months then this isn't a big deal, of course

[Brandon Hanley]

I know plans often change but at the current time I don't really see myself making much dust in the form of big chips since my current interests are really only in making guitar bodies and small trinket boxes I'm sure that will change eventually but my biggest worry currently is more along the lines of fine dust that I will be inhaling. At this point honestly I think suction Weis even the single canister Grizzly is overkill but I don't really want to risk assuming so and being close to borderline then over running it as soon as I start working more out there.

[Jim Becker]

If you service a single tool at a time (move the unit and connect/disconnect), replace the filter bag with a very high quality replacement and make sure that the hood on the tool is efficiently setup to collect the dust and chips, you can do a reasonably adequate job with a modest machine.

BTW, dust collectors don't work via "suction"...dust collection is a matter of moving large volumes of air at low pressure ("suction" is high pressure) which in turn, moves the dust and chips. That's why bigger actually "is" better when it comes to dust collection, especially when to do the best job, such as with a table saw, you need both a cabinet feed and an overarm collect-from-the-blade feed running simultaneously. Larger units can move more air and that's what you ultimately need for maximum benefit.

[Brandon Hanley]

If the single canister g0548zp is sufficient I could probably budget an 8" jointer from grizz. I just don't want to short change DC to do it.

[Brandon Hanley]

Anyone else have any input? I'm still kind of torn but leaning to the side of the single 2hp 1 micron canister g0548zp. And later upgrading to either a second g0548zp later on if I need more air movement or a super dust deputy if I need more filtration.

With that said though I will openly admit I am a total noob and would be thankful for any input even if it is just to tell me I am way off base.

[Brandon Hanley]

Anyone? I'm worried whatever I choose is going to be the wrong one

[Larry Frank]

I think you need to spend the time reading Bill Pentz and gain a better understanding. Collecting fine dust is most important for your health and you need a better understanding. One can design ways to pick up dust from a drill press. The bandsaw definitely can be creating a lot of fine dust. If you are making guitar bodies you may be using some more exotic woods and you need to understand the dangers of some woods.

Nobody can give you an answer without knowing what you will be doing. There is no real short cut to designing a good, effective system.

BTW as a response to an earlier comment in this thread. .
Suction is suction no matter if high or low pressure. The fan curves are flow versus suction. When your suction goes to zero there is no air flow. You design your system to work with the characteristics of your fan curve.

[Pat Foy]

http://billpentz.com/woodworking/cyclone/beginnnerscorner.cfm

Brandon,
I went through similar DC worries and anguishing over what equipment to buy a few years ago. Bill Pentz's website (see above) provided me with more information than I could digest, but it was a wonderful source for data and provided me with metrics that helped me come to a decision on what to purchase. I purchased a Jet DC-11000VX with the canister kit (5 micron filter), but that's based on my space and use needs. Putting together a system is really based on your individual needs/specs rather than asking people for recommendations. Their experience helps, but ultimately, you have to decide what works best for you.

[Lane Hardy]

Brandon,

i would like to offer my thoughts, I am building my D.C. System as I write this. I have budget constraints and I wanted to make the work area safe from fine dust and get rid of the saw dust off the floor forever. Several years ago I built a cyclone from 10 inch HVAC pipe it worked great with my shop vac for removing the saw dust out of the cabinet of my Ridged 4512 TS. However it did not have enough air movement to extract the dust from the spinning saw blade, the top was covered in saw dust.I wanted to solve this problem. I was gifted a Harbor Frieght advertised 2 hp. Unit (more like 1.25)
i bought the Supper Dust Deputy for the Cyclone. After using my home brew Cyclone I will never use any D.C. With out a Cyclone. The HF D.C. Is a little under powered but works with a single hose connection to tools with a good smooth flex hose. And that was with using the bag filter I mean the dust spewer. Bad idea for collecting fine dust. So I bough the Wynn 35A nano filter to solve this problem. With the major components on hand I statered war gaming how I was going to set this up. I watched every YoUTube video on D.C. With Cyclone separators. I knew I needed short runs of ducting and short as possible for any flex hose.the shorter the better. The fan or impeller in the HF is 9 3/4 inch diameter, not very big but it moves air. I also knew I would get better performance if any curves where removed from ducting and hoses namely the the hose that runs from the impeller exhaust side to the filter. To make this work I built a frame to mount the motor/ fan/ blower on in a vertical shaft fashion, this accomplished two things. The duct from the suction side went strait to the top of the Cyclone. I also removed the factory 5 inch connection as it restricted airflow. I made a new cover with a 6 inch HVAC takeoff that fits perfectly into the SDD. The exhaust from the blower now goes straght into the HF filter frame with the plastic bag at the bottom. The Wynn filter where the dust spewer use to reside.
making these changes made a big impact for performance, sorry I do not have any numbers to offer.
as for the impeller size bigger maybe a good or bad thing. I see where guys have changed out the impeller for the Rikon 12 inch impeller, I am at 1900 feet Mean Sea Level if I were at Sea Level the air density (lower altitude the more dense Air) maybe be more than what the motor can handle drawing more current than what the motor is rated for. ( high Alt such as Denver a bigger impeller may be beneficial to move more air ) with D.C. It is all about low drag and a high volume of air flow not suction like a shop vac.
Next Duct work: this can get complicated to keep it simple long sweeping turns should be used, avoid sharp 90's they are velocity killers rember we want high volume high velocity air flow. To keep the fine dust in suspension and to move chips.
when making branches avoid Tee's for the same reason use Wyes'
if you have to make turns I would suggest using 2 45 degree with a short section of pipe between the 45's this will help reduce paristic drag, drag is bad.
The size of the pipe: again this can be complicated, as an example I have seen many folks with the SDD use HVAC reducers to connect the plenum pipe to the SDD the SDD has a 5 inch input. I recommend staying with 5 inch pipe.
why? If you go down to the common 4 inch PVC thin wall Drain pipe you will lose a great deal of air flow,
if you go up to a 6 inch pipe the velocity will slow down and the fine dust will settle. Think of it this way you have a vertical 4 inch pipe 18 inches tall and a garden hose with 60 psi filling the pipe from the bottom the objective is to flush out the golf balls sitting on the bottom the pipe. You open the valve and water floods the pipe a few balls are forced off the bottom of the pipe but not out of the pipe. The water flow rate is not enough to over come the weight of the balls. The ball Starts to sink this creates turbulence in the water the other balls just get churned up and down. But not out the top of the pipe.
Now take a 2 inch pipe with the same water flow rate and the balls will be propelled out of the top of the 18 inch tall pipe.
In this case it is the flow rate that is in a smaller pipe that over comes the weight of the balls. Not the pressure.
some may argue this point but just go with it. The water stream is not directed at the ball in this situation.
That is not to suggest using a smaller pipe than in the inlet to the Cyclone should be used. Use the same size of pipe all they way to the tool and reduce only if nessesary, if your Table saw has a 4 inch port make it a 5 inch port. If it is a hand sander you are going to have to sacrifice performance and reduce to size of the pipe to connect to the sander. Oh but this will reduce the airflow to suspend the dust right? At another blast gate farther away from your sander upstream crack the blast gate so that you get more airflow to move the dust. Theoretically you would want to open the blast gate just enough to make up the difference in air flow that the small sander duct choked off. Listen to the impeller speed to determine how far to open the blast gate. As the impeller gets more air the speed of the impeller will slow down. Do not bog down with too much air, as in gate that is fully open. The velocity will drop off.

Now presents another problem 5 inch pipe! Where do you find it short of Onidea or some other high priced supplier. After all most of us are hobbyists we need to be realist about what we spend. 5 inch pipe! Well drillers in West Texas use 5 inch pipe for wells however I have not found any fittings wyes or any thing other than couplers oh this is a126 psi pipe not schedule 40 or DWV or Schedule 20.
What I did was go to a local shop that makes HVAC duct work. He made me 5 inch wyes that fit on the 5 inch pvc and used foil tape a good quality tape not duct tape. For the turns I went to an HVAC supplier for those. And tape all the seams even on the ribs where the bend is made. I tested for leaks using a smudge stick.

if I did it over again I would use a good true 2 HP blower such as Grizzly setup with a the Cyclone. A turn key setup it uses 6 inch duct work has a bigger fan a better fan curve (more air flow) for a little bit more than what I have in my cobbled setup. But it works.

From a man with few words,

i just use a SE a lot of the same words over and over again.

Read ad what Bill Pentz has to say. Like others you have make up your own mind but research research!

Lane

[Brandon Hanley]

I must be the slow kid in class... I'm not sure if it is the ADHD, the caveman genetics, or just the fact that I only sleep about 4 hours a day due to 70hr work weeks but I have been to the bill Pentz website about 10 times now and it goes the same way every time, I spend 10 to 15 minutes skimming through looking for something to help me figure out what I need but the whole time I feel like I am reading a dictionary or encyclopedia based solely on the glossary that involves dust collection. I am not sure if it is the way things are worded or organized or what but it seems like no matter what link I click it contains all the same stuff in a different order with small intermissions of him saying how this or that person or company has been proven wrong due to his testing for one reason or another.

I realize he is well-respected and his site has helped many people but at this point it just makes my head hurt and I feel like if I actually want to dig into some wood with a tool within the next year I'm just going to have to buy the biggest dust collector I can afford and hope it does the trick. Im betting the real issue just lies in my own ignorance since honestly I would rather spend a month researching table saws and how not to cut my fingers off with one rather than how and why dust collectors work. I see a dust collection system as something that you set and forget rather than something you try to perfect or take pride in kind of like buying a new lawn mower, as long as it works I'm not interested in being sidetracked by trying to learn every detail of how the engine works

I don't mean any of this to be rude or disrespectful I guess I'm just trying to admit where I am at on the subject and admit that I am way out of my league and was expecting a total different scenario. I figured to get the right dust collector I would just have to spit out a few facts like the size of the room the tools I plan to use and how many of each time and I would get a simple answer like "you need a dust collector rated for this many CFM and this type of filter" I honestly never realized that there was so much involved with simply trying to get the Dust Away from the tools and filtered out of the air. Now I feel like some kind of jerk or wasting everyone's time rather than just doing more research first in coming to the conclusion that I would never understand the science behind it so the only possible solution would be to throw lots of money at it and start researching so I can improve it or replace it later on when I know more about them. At this point though considering I have never even been in the same room as a dust collector and I haven't had a chance to use my tools to figure out where they are going to be positioned due to lack of dust collection. That leaves me in my current position where I have no understanding of dust collection and can't learn about dust collection because I've never even seen dust collection and the only way I see any of that changing is to actually get started so that with a little bit of experience what I'm reading and what I'm seeing will start to click together and make more sense hopefully and I'll be able to fully appreciate Mr. Pentz hard work.

[Jim Becker]

One of the challenges with anyone making a recommendation like"...with this much CFM rating" is that most manufacturers will not provide fan curves (a technical testing measurement) that proves their assertion as well as defines under what conditions their unit actually gives that level of performance. But it all does come back to essentially what I mentioned earlier...the more air the unit moves, the better it's going to be able to collect dust and chips. That, combined with quality filtration, helps to keep the air cleaner. Unfortunately, there is also the variables of your shop and your tools. What works in my shop may not be ideal in yours...my major tools have dust port designs that are pretty good, so 5"/120mm drops from a 6" main meet my needs. (my machine ports are 120mm as they are Euro machines) All of these things mix together an affect what's going to be best for your own situation.

And if you are working with exotics, that's even more important to your health as many species can cause sensitivities (that grow) and even result in physical intolerance to the dust in some people. That's why this is so important. Your frustration is very much understood and appreciated...and we all really are trying to help you!

[Andy Giddings]

I must be the slow kid in class... I'm not sure if it is the ADHD, the caveman genetics, or just the fact that I only sleep about 4 hours a day due to 70hr work weeks but I have been to the bill Pentz website about 10 times now and it goes the same way every time, I spend 10 to 15 minutes skimming through looking for something to help me figure out what I need but the whole time I feel like I am reading a dictionary or encyclopedia based solely on the glossary that involves dust collection. I am not sure if it is the way things are worded or organized or what but it seems like no matter what link I click it contains all the same stuff in a different order with small intermissions of him saying how this or that person or company has been proven wrong due to his testing for one reason or another.

I realize he is well-respected and his site has helped many people but at this point it just makes my head hurt and I feel like if I actually want to dig into some wood with a tool within the next year I'm just going to have to buy the biggest dust collector I can afford and hope it does the trick. Im betting the real issue just lies in my own ignorance since honestly I would rather spend a month researching table saws and how not to cut my fingers off with one rather than how and why dust collectors work. I see a dust collection system as something that you set and forget rather than something you try to perfect or take pride in kind of like buying a new lawn mower, as long as it works I'm not interested in being sidetracked by trying to learn every detail of how the engine works

I don't mean any of this to be rude or disrespectful I guess I'm just trying to admit where I am at on the subject and admit that I am way out of my league and was expecting a total different scenario. I figured to get the right dust collector I would just have to spit out a few facts like the size of the room the tools I plan to use and how many of each time and I would get a simple answer like "you need a dust collector rated for this many CFM and this type of filter" I honestly never realized that there was so much involved with simply trying to get the Dust Away from the tools and filtered out of the air. Now I feel like some kind of jerk or wasting everyone's time rather than just doing more research first in coming to the conclusion that I would never understand the science behind it so the only possible solution would be to throw lots of money at it and start researching so I can improve it or replace it later on when I know more about them. At this point though considering I have never even been in the same room as a dust collector and I haven't had a chance to use my tools to figure out where they are going to be positioned due to lack of dust collection. That leaves me in my current position where I have no understanding of dust collection and can't learn about dust collection because I've never even seen dust collection and the only way I see any of that changing is to actually get started so that with a little bit of experience what I'm reading and what I'm seeing will start to click together and make more sense hopefully and I'll be able to fully appreciate Mr. Pentz hard work.

Brandon, you were given answers based on your selection of 2 DCs. Either of them will work but they have limitations as noted in the comments.

[John K Jordan]

I agree that the research is nearly overwhelming. And I just found out I'm not necessarily ADDDHHHHD as I thought but maybe ADOS, "Attention Deficit OOO!!!SHINY!!!" :)

When building my shop I was nearly overwhelmed by the Pentz site but made myself read every word. I had no experience with dust collection other than connecting a shop vac to tools. There was some redundancy, some that didn't apply to me, and some that stretched my comprehension. However, there is also a tremendous amount of useful information. The key word is "tremendous" - it was a struggle to read and learn what I needed. It seemed to me there were so many variables that to have the optimal system at minimum cost would be a huge effort and possibly even require some experimentation, completely impractical.

In the end, I chose to install what I thought was more capacity than I really needed and I'm glad I did. I put in a 5-hp ClearVue in a sound-insulated closet and ran 6" ducts above the ceiling and 6" drops. This in fact proved to be more capacity than I needed but that just means I don't have to worry about small inefficiencies introduced by construction compromises. The air moved by this system is well above what it needed and highly efficient in the separation. It was easy to install and in several years of usage has needed no maintenance.

As a first step I would highly recommend carefully planning your shop layout based on the space and your current and projected shop tool ownership with attention to workflow. I spent a year designing my shop and filled a large notebook with numerous layout variations until I got what I thought would work best. Having this let me plan every electrical outlet, the lights, switches, doors/windows, HVAC install, and dust collection layout before I drove the first nail. If it's not possible to plan ahead, I wonder if it would be better to use a DC that can be moved around and connected to one machine at a time - use that until a final plan evolves, then sell that DC and install a fixed system. Just a thought.

JKJ

[Brandon Hanley]

Jim- the info put out by companies is a big part of the issue. Every time i try to compare air flow on 2 machines im reminded that they can not only stretch the truth but flat out change the equation. Both may list close cfm numbers but further reading shows one claims that number through 6" duct while the other claims that number is measured at 2" static pressure.

Andy- no argument there. I just started questioning if maybe I shouldn't be considering other collectors after everyone started recommending the Pentz website and I started trying to sift through all the information getting more and more confused as the minutes went on.

John- your last paragraph is where I'm at. I started buying woodworking tools 5 years ago and storing them until I had space to use them. Then I bought a house with even less space two years ago and started planning to build a big garage for me to do Woodworking and some other stuff. So 7 months ago I had the shell of the garage built and me and a buddy started to try to set things up to get started like wiring and insulating the whole thing reinforcing the upstairs floor and buying more tools that I thought I would need for what I'm interested in doing.

So as much as I've been able to plan I still haven't been able to decide exactly where each machine is going to live or came up with any sort of workflow because I haven't been able to use 95% of the stuff yet so I don't know where anything will be permanently because even though it looks right or seems convenient to sit it in one spot I worried that as soon as I start using it I will see that there is something wrong with that spot for that machine. So it's like everything is just going in circles like I need experience with everything to know how to set the shop up but I need to have the shop setup so I can use everything to gain experience. I'm sure without an explanation I would just seem impatient to most but I feel like it is the exact opposite of that since I have been trying to get this set up and running for 7 months with every spare minute of my days but I have yet to get to use any of it. I know it sounds like a joke but I have been losing sleep over this stuff for months and I really don't have much sleep to spare with my current job I am working 6 12 to 14-hour days a week and after trying to find time for the family and this building there isn't much left for sleep

[Brandon Hanley]

Im sorry for the misspelling and general butchery of the language. It seems the longer the reply that i type on my phone, the more screwed up it gets.

[Lane Hardy]

Brandon,

Don't beat yourself up! We all learn in different ways. And while we are learning we find new ways to do things. To me that is the fun of wood working. I like to make thinks that make other things i.e. Jigs. Unfortunately like Jim Becker says every situation is different. dust collectors are not Plug and play so much, they require some tweaking but it is that tweaking that that have to learn to make the D.C. System the best that it can be. Then you are hooked.

[Brandon Hanley]

thanks Lane, I think i am going to get the G0562zp 3hp dual canister DC from grizzly and try to optimize it as needed. I think i am also just going to run one large duct from the dc to one machine at a time for a while untill i learn a bit more about ducting to do it properly unless it becomes too much of a pain to switch around.

I think doing it this way is the only way im ever actually going to get started soon while stil having a pretty good chance of success.

[Lane Hardy]

That is a Hoss of a D.C. That do what you want to do, the machine has lots of upgrade capacity for future changes such a seperator my choice would be a Cyclone type down the road if you felt you needed it. I think this D.C. Has the best bang for buck in the Grizzly line.

Lane

[Brandon Hanley]

After starting to price 7" ducting bang for the buck and heart medication may be exactly what I need. After seeing it is going to cost $400 just for the main trunk pipe to span one wall with 4 wyes and nothing else I'm starting to hope that it is overkill enough that I can take some shortcuts to save cash at the expense of efficiency like tees instead of wyes on the branching.

[John K Jordan]

After starting to price 7" ducting bang for the buck and heart medication may be exactly what I need. After seeing it is going to cost $400 just for the main trunk pipe to span one wall with 4 wyes and nothing else I'm starting to hope that it is overkill enough that I can take some shortcuts to save cash at the expense of efficiency like tees instead of wyes on the branching.

For cost reduction, I personally would rather use 6" PVC and PVC wyes rather than 7" and tees.

JKJ

[Brandon Hanley]

At half the price of the stuff I was pricing at Oneida that seems like the best option. I passed right over it because I didn't realize that they made blast gates and all of the other pieces necessary in PVC

[Andy Giddings]

+1 on John's recommendation, Brandon. We both run Clearvue 1800 DC with a 5HP motor and 6 inch PVC duct (or steel) is plenty big enough, especially as you are running one machine at a time. PVC is a lot easier to assemble than steel, static is not an issue and it has a smoother, slightly larger ID. There are a few recent threads on here about where to get the pipe and fittings at reasonable cost

[Larry Frank]

I think 6" PVC is a great way to go and make your own blast gates. There are some companies that put out good info for performance curves. I know from my own testing that Oneida curves are good. You can get better data by contacting companies and asking for the curves and how they tested to get the data.

As for the Pentz info, IMHO it is quite good. It takes effort and time to understand. You can take a couple of approaches to picking a dust collector and duct set up. You can read and study and figure out what you need. Or you can just skip all that and guess at what you need and what will work. To each his own.....

[Lane Hardy]

I agree with everyone that responded about the 6 inch pipe as being the way to go with the Grizzly model you are looking at. But I would strongly suggest using wyes over tee's and long sweeps for turns or better yet the two 45's I mentioned before. Try to find schedule 20 Drain and sewer pipe ( DS) also know as DWS and DWV some places the point is you can save a lot weight and money if you can find schedule 20, it can also be referred as closed cell or thin wall pipe. ASTM 2729 I think don't use schedule 40 or 80 for money saving.

What part of the country do you live in?
some localities it hard to find schedule 20 pipe due to it not meeting code for waste water. I have found a few places in Texas that has a good stock of it. Sometimes rule town hardware And plumbing supply company's may still have it available.

With the air flow rate of that Grizzly machine going from 7 to 6 inch will not kill you. But the tee's will.

Lane

[Brandon Hanley]

sorry for the lack of responses, i've been running myself ragged between work and life. The dual cannister Grizzly should be here tomorow. i have been on a mission checking local sources for pvc but nobody carries the cheap sched 20 stuff. cheapest is green s&d and i havent found that in 6" yet. I've still got a few places to check yet. if i can atleast get the pipe locally i wont mind buying fittings online as much.

[Bruce Wrenn]

Before "jumping off the bridge," take a look at Phil Thien's baffle. I have a cyclone (Wood Magazine) that I built, but often run my "Top Hat" Thien baffle in front of it when using jointer and planer, on slab in front of shop.

[Brandon Hanley]

The Dc came and is put together but not yet plumbed into anything.

I did manage to find a place to buy thin wall s&d at 1.12/foot for 6 inch. It's an hour each way from my place but work takes me within 5 minutes of them. I can't get pipe in the company truck but I can get a pile of fittings when I need more.

For those in pa the company is frys plastics In munch pa.

I picked up:
70ft 6in
40ft 4in
20 45s
15 caps for each size
3 6x6x6 wyes
6 6x6x4 wyes.

I have to go back for more wyes. That was all they had.

[Brad Alexander]

If you go with the 3HP Grizzly, you could, at a later time, build the Bill Pentz cyclone and power it with the Griz. It's not that hard. I built his cyclone and blower with an Oneida impeller and a 3HP TEFC motor. 6" PVC all through the shop, micro switches on each blast gate and a clean basement shop. I also built segmented sweep elbows. IDK what the CFM is, but this thing SUCKS!

[Clark Harbaugh]

I'll chime in. I went the route of a single stage Grizzly 2HP single stage (G1029Z2P) several years ago. I had it plumbed to 4" duct work with ports at my miter, my table saw, and a 3rd that I could use for band saw, planer, jointer, etc (all on wheels). Each port had agate on it so I could keep only one open at a time. After a couple of years, I decided to make some improvements after I read Pentz's website. #1 I upgraded all duct and gates to 6", #2 I upgraded all the ports on every tool to support 6", #3 I built a Thein style separator, turning it to a 2 stage, and #3 replaced the bag filter with a nice pleated canister filter from Wynn Environmental. #2 & #3 meant that I tore apart the grizzly and reconfigured - the motor and filter/bag holder are both mounted to a wall. What a difference the changes made. The advantage to the 2-canister setup is it has twice the surface area to move air through, which in turn should increase your airflow over a single canister, which means better dust collection at the tool.

[Randall J Cox]

After finishing mine, immediately plugging my new $200 nano filter and having to redo the whole thing, adding a cyclone, let me just say - do it right the first time.... It got more complex and took a lot more time and money than I thought I would have in it. I'm now happy with the result, just wished I had heeded others advice to begin with. Good luck. PS And I did a ton of reading before I started. Randy

[Robert Eckerle]

I'm another slow kid in the dust collection classroom ...
My head was about to explode and I was frustrated with deciding what to do........plus the cost of the machines are quite high IMO



I finally closed my eyes and threw $$$ at the Laguna PFlux 1.5 hp (today)

I sure hope it wasn't a mistake

[glenn bradley]

I don't see how I would hook up dust collection to a drill press or bandsaw or if that would even be necessary.

You can tell by the many responses that dust collection is near and dear to anyone wanting to continue woodworking without an iron lung in their future. That being said I thought I would address your specific line above:

367806 . 367807 . 367808 . 367809


367810 .367814. 367812

[Kim Gibbens]

I'm another slow kid in the dust collection classroom ...
My head was about to explode and I was frustrated with deciding what to do........plus the cost of the machines are quite high IMO



I finally closed my eyes and threw $$$ at the Laguna PFlux 1.5 hp (today)

I sure hope it wasn't a mistake

I hope it isn't either , got mine put together during the holiday weekend. I had considered modifying my HF dc but decided I really liked the Laguna, even having to run a dedicated 30 amp 110 line for it. The instructions say 4-6 hours to assemble, I took my time and it was probably around 8 hours total ( not including the electrical). I hope you have some strong help, the first step is to take the unit out of the box (yeah right) and flip it upside down. Yes, It can be done by 1 person, I did it. I did have help flipping it back over though. It helps if you have watched the youtube assembly videos. So far I am pleased with my purchase.
I

[Brandon Hanley]

Sorry my email notifications quit working. I ended up getting the Oneida super Dust Deputy XL cyclone on top of a 55 gallon drum to go with the dough canister grizzly and it is working better than I ever thought it could. Almost nothing is making it to the grizzly and the grizzly is powerful enough that I haven't even installed gate I just leave about for tools hooked up at all times and the 55 gallon drum makes popping noises when I turn it on and off and looks like it is going to suck the lid down into the barrel. I do still intend to make an install gate I just haven't felt the need and have been so busy with everything else that I kind of just put it on the back burner

[Roger Feeley]

Single canister is fine. Get a cyclone if you can afford it.

I use the 4" plastic pipe from Home Depot and I stopped worrying about sealing. I just run a couple of short sheet metal screws through the joints. I used to do a bunch of anti-static measures but don't anymore.
Make sure you use the long elbows or two 45 degree connectors. Expecially with the planer. Sometimes wood comes off a bit chunky.

Put the collector closest to the planer. Then the Table Saw should be next closest. The things that produce the finest dust can go a bit further away. In my shop, the thing that's the farthest is over my workbench for my random orbital sander. I leave that blast gate open all the time, figuring that the length of the run and the size of the port don't amount to much loss.

Blast gates all around. I don't like the plastic ones because they get clogged with sawdust and won't close. If you must use plastic gates, drill holes in the corners where the sawdust collects. You will pay the price in some minor leakage but only when the gate is open and they won't clog as badly.

I'm a big fan of the Long Ranger remote switch. I wear a shop vest and I keep the remote clipped to that.