Veritas combination plane is here

[Simon MacGowen]

http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=75620&cat=51&ap=1

I think this is the biggest release after the custom bench planes. The complexity of its development, if you read the plane guide, is really beyond its look.

Simon

[Malcolm Schweizer]

Yes- I saw that, but my preorder has yet to ship. I certainly hope they will ship to the loyal folks that preordered first.

[Simon MacGowen]

Yes- I saw that, but my preorder has yet to ship. I certainly hope they will ship to the loyal folks that preordered first.

Perhaps yours is being packed for shipping?

For new orders, the webpage says
Our initial shipment of the Box for the Combination Plane is expected to arrive by early September 2017.

Simon

[lowell holmes]

I REALLY wish they had not done that:), I have absolutely no use for one but I probably will order one.

I have long been fascinated with combination planes, but I already have their small plow plane with all of the cutters, including some beading cutters.

[Simon MacGowen]

I REALLY wish they had not done that:), I have absolutely no use for one but I probably will order one.

I have long been fascinated with combination planes, but I already have their small plow plane with all of the cutters, including some beading cutters.

Luckily the cutters from the plow are compatible with the new plane. The new plane comes with one cutter only.

Simon

[Howard Pollack]

Question: Does this combination plane duplicate the functions of the small and large plough planes? Thanks.
-Howard

[Jim Koepke]

Question: Does this combination plane duplicate the functions of the small and large plough planes? Thanks.
-Howard

Hi Howard,

The Veritas Combination Plane was formerly known as the Veritas Large Plough Plane. Since more functions have been added someone must have decided to change the name.

The Veritas Small Plough (plow) Plane is also a bit of a combination plane with some beading cutters, just not as many combinations.

jtk

[Bill Houghton]

Hi Howard,

The Veritas Combination Plane was formerly known as the Veritas Large Plough Plane. Since more functions have been added someone must have decided to change the name.

Actually, the original Large Plough Plane design had a number of features that didn't make it into the final product: http://www.woodcentral.com/woodworking/forum/archives_handtools.pl/bid/3108/page/1/md/read/id/122684/sbj/exclusive-spy-photos-lv-large-plow-plane/

[Bill Houghton]

Sigh. Another tool I don't really need, but will be sorely tempted to get...

[Mike Brady]

I'm wondering where you found the link to the large plow plane. It does not appear in the current on-line catalog and the link you provided does not allow placement of an order or back-order. Also, I see only these words about delivery at the bottom of the page: Our initial shipment is expected to arrive by mid September 2017. Those who placed pre-orders for the plane were told mid-August for delivery, buy no one has reported receiving theirs, so far.

[lowell holmes]

Sigh. Another tool I don't really need, but will be sorely tempted to get...
Live with it, I do.:)

I have the small plow plane with all of the cutters, including beading cutters.

[Rob Lee]

Hi!

LOTS of combination planes ready to ship - all we're missing is.......of course...... the box!

Boxes are on the CNC router (and in assembly) as I type.... and we will be shipping first to those that bought in Amana. I expect that we'll start shipping in about 10 more working days. The web page went up a bit early, as we are just releasing the Main woodworking Catalogue, which features the plow plane on it.

Planes have actually been ready for a week or two now, and more are coming out every day.

It was my decision to put the brakes on the release, until we could completely fill the Amana orders, out of fairness to those that committed early...

Cheers -

Rob

PS - the combination plane guide will be available in print in our stores, and should be in our library app. Note that the new main catalogue is on-line now, and should also be hitting the reader app (if not already there).

[Malcolm Schweizer]

Hi!

LOTS of combination planes ready to ship - all we're missing is.......of course...... the box!

Boxes are on the CNC router (and in assembly) as I type.... and we will be shipping first to those that bought in Amana. I expect that we'll start shipping in about 10 more working days. The web page went up a bit early, as we are just releasing the Main woodworking Catalogue, which features the plow plane on it.

Planes have actually been ready for a week or two now, and more are coming out every day.

It was my decision to put the brakes on the release, until we could completely fill the Amana orders, out of fairness to those that committed early...

Cheers -

Rob

PS - the combination plane guide will be available in print in our stores, and should be in our library app. Note that the new main catalogue is on-line now, and should also be hitting the reader app (if not already there).

Thanks, Rob. That is commendable. I wouldn't have raised too much heck, but I would have been a bit perturbed if the Amana orders didn't ship first. I flew 2000 miles and borrowed a truck to drive the rest of the way to Amana, and I said if you guys had the "plane formerly known as the large plow" (with a nod to "the artist formerly known as Prince") up for purchase I would buy it, and I did so. Since then I have been anxiously awaiting that email- "Your new tool has shipped..." I do appreciate your thoughtfulness in giving the preorders first privilege.

[Kevin Perez]

This looks amazing. I know what's going to be on this year's Christmas list...

[Simon MacGowen]

Hey, I could have beaten you guys who have preordered! Just joking.

I saw the ordering details this morning which are now gone. Also gone is it from the new products page which I found its release in the first place.

After reading the plane guide, the tool looks very promising...and I have to decide if I can still wait until I try it at one of the shows. Any reviews of this plane coming out soon?

Simon

[Malcolm Schweizer]

Hey, I could have beaten you guys who have preordered! Just joking.

I saw the ordering details this morning which are now gone. Also gone is it from the new products page which I found its release in the first place.

After reading the plane guide, the tool looks very promising...and I have to decide if I can still wait until I try it at one of the shows. Any reviews of this plane coming out soon?

Simon

Yes- actually I have a project waiting for this new plane, so I have been checking my email daily, and checking the website "what's new" daily. I saw the combo plane (sorry Rob, but you know we are going to shorten the name to "combo plane") and checked my mail and no "your package has shipped mail." I went back to the site, and it was gone from the new items list. I searched for it, and it came up, but later it didn't. I figured it was a whoopsie by I.T.

I'm really looking forward to trying it out, and I promise to do a video when it arrives.

[Simon MacGowen]

have been checking my email daily, and checking the website "what's new" daily. I saw the combo plane (sorry Rob, but you know we are going to shorten the name to "combo plane") and checked my mail and no "your package has shipped mail."

You know you could be suffering from an illness that is incurable, and the mercy of relief (no remedy available) rests with Veritas!

I always wear gloves before I open any packages received from them and sanitize everything, just to be sure...

Simon

[Malcolm Schweizer]

You know you could be suffering from an illness that is incurable, and the mercy of relief (no remedy available) rests with Veritas!

I always wear gloves before I open any packages received from them and sanitize everything, just to be sure...

Simon


It's too late- I am terminal. I hear it is a slow, happy death.

[Patrick Chase]

"Hi, my name is Patrick and I'm a Veritas brand whore. It's been 3 days since my last tool."

[john zulu]

Yes- actually I have a project waiting for this new plane, so I have been checking my email daily, and checking the website "what's new" daily. I saw the combo plane (sorry Rob, but you know we are going to shorten the name to "combo plane") and checked my mail and no "your package has shipped mail." I went back to the site, and it was gone from the new items list. I searched for it, and it came up, but later it didn't. I figured it was a whoopsie by I.T.

I'm really looking forward to trying it out, and I promise to do a video when it arrives.


Quite curious as to what project requires this new plane? Beading or hollow perhaps?

[Patrick Chase]

Quite curious as to what project requires this new plane? Beading or hollow perhaps?

Relative to the small plow it adds support for reeding cutters, fluting cutters, and larger beading cutters. I expect that it's also a bit more "confident" with wide plow and tongue cutters than the small plow with its optional second skate. It adds nickers on both skates, which are significant when working cross grain. Finally, it appears to have a number of usability refinements, which are always welcome in a combination plane.

I don't think it can support hollows or rounds, unless it can accept the 45's "accessory soles" and corresponding cutters (does anybody know if it can?). To support non-trivial applications of hollows/rounds/etc without a dedicated sole the second skate needs to move in the vertical and the fences need to rotate. Not coincidentally those happen to be the major differences between the 45 and 55. The Veritas combo plane appears not to have either feature.

[Hilton Ralphs]

Actually, the original Large Plough Plane design had a number of features that didn't make it into the final product: http://www.woodcentral.com/woodworking/forum/archives_handtools.pl/bid/3108/page/1/md/read/id/122684/sbj/exclusive-spy-photos-lv-large-plow-plane/

Wow Bill, an April's Fool post from 2008. Good one.

[William Fretwell]

Yeah! The handle is right behind the blade! All those old planes just dropped in price!
With brass knobs on!

[Rob Lee]

Hi -

All pre-orders have shipped now, and the plane will be available in all store Sept 2nd. The majority of people should have their planes in hand by end of day Monday (according to tracking information). The first few should be delivered today!

Cheers -

Rob

[lowell holmes]

I have been on your site before, but cannot access it at this time.
Can you send me a private message with login information

[Rob Lee]

I have been on your site before, but cannot access it at this time.
Can you send me a private message with login information

Hi Lowell!

Be glad to look up you login/reset your password....

Can you PM me your email address so I am sure I have the correct account?

Thanks!

Rob

[Malcolm Schweizer]

Hi -

All pre-orders have shipped now, and the plane will be available in all store Sept 2nd. The majority of people should have their planes in hand by end of day Monday (according to tracking information). The first few should be delivered today!

Cheers -

Rob

That's awesome- thanks for shipping our orders fist. I see in my order history that mine has shipped!!! I went by the lumber yard today and they have two huge pallets of 2x mahogany. Coincidence? I think not. :-) Soon to come- Malcolm builds a set of louvered mahogany doors with his new plane.

[Rob Lee]

I am jealous - of both the mahogany, and the plane....!




That's awesome- thanks for shipping our orders fist. I see in my order history that mine has shipped!!! I went by the lumber yard today and they have two huge pallets of 2x mahogany. Coincidence? I think not. :-) Soon to come- Malcolm builds a set of louvered mahogany doors with his new plane.

[lowell holmes]

Rob,
I have all of the cutters for the small plow plane. Do they work on the large plow plane?
I imagine others will want to know. I plan on ordering the large body.

[Rob Lee]

Hi Lowell!

The small plow plane cutters will all work on the large plow plane, with the exception of blades that are uniquely for the LH version. If you have a LH version - I'd be glad to work something out there too....

Cheers -

Rob



Rob,
I have all of the cutters for the small plow plane. Do they work on the large plow plane?
I imagine others will want to know. I plan on ordering the large body.

[lowell holmes]

Fortunately, I have the right hand version.

[Simon MacGowen]

Hi Lowell!

The small plow plane cutters will all work on the large plow plane, with the exception of blades that are uniquely for the LH version. If you have a LH version - I'd be glad to work something out there too....

Cheers -

Rob

How could you argue with or not buy from a guy who does business like that?!

Simon

[lowell holmes]

That's exactly why I've bought so much from Lee Valley.
He knows how to build a loyal customer base. I thought the cutters would it, but he confirmed it.
The plane I have is delightful. I just want the big plane.

[Frederick Skelly]

That's exactly why I've bought so much from Lee Valley.
He knows how to build a loyal customer base.

+1 Lowell. They are my vendor of choice.

[Hasin Haroon]

+1 Lowell. They are my vendor of choice.

+1 there for me too. How do you not support a company who's president takes the time to help individual customers out like this?

[Brian Loran]

Mine arrived yesterday. It is one fancy plane!!! The box is cool too. Very clever. I only got to play with it a short time last night but I really like the "dimple" on the fence where my off hand holds/pushes on it. Well done.

[Malcolm Schweizer]

Mine arrived yesterday. It is one fancy plane!!! The box is cool too. Very clever. I only got to play with it a short time last night but I really like the "dimple" on the fence where my off hand holds/pushes on it. Well done.

Mine went snail mail (as opposed to priority.). It is in Jacksonville where it gets loaded on a boat and transit from there is at least a week. Looking forward to it.

[Chet R Parks]

Mine came yesterday also. Great piece of work Lee-Valley, thank you.

[Mike Brady]

I have tried a few cutters in mine. As a plow plane without the second skate, it is very solid and the tote is excellent (a first for me re: LV tools). The wider blades that require the second skate may require a video demo for me to get the full setup understood. There are layers of adjustment needed and I'm not quite there with the use of the skates. Specifically, how and when are the two different blade alignment / retention screws utilized? We can have some discussions upcoming.

I have to say it is great to have a new tool to talk about. There has been a long, dry spell prior to this.

[Hasin Haroon]

Mike, the small knob that is tucked away normally is used to keep the blade aligned when using a narrow blade without the sliding section skate. For larger blades than 3/8", both the main body and the sliding section is used, and the sliding section has a knob that normally keeps the blade automatically aligned with the edges of the skate. On the main body, the blade butts right up against the machined part.

The included manual is pretty good at explaining the different uses and modes.

[Andrey Kharitonkin]

Surprisingly, yesterday I got mine too... and I'm in Europe, Austria!

Now, since my mouse clicking finger works faster than my head, what it can be used for? :)

I just have beading blade for now. I'm going to use it for the purpose that combination plane guide says to: "Adding a bead to a tongue-and-groove joint minimizes the visual effect of expansion and contraction." But what else?

I have no idea what the reeding is for, and little about fluting.

And I think it will be useful as rabbeting plane too, because it can be transformed from right-hand plane to left-hand plane to follow the grain. I have only right-hand skew rabbet (filister) plane. Same goes for grooving.

Maybe also for decoration of internal edges of frame and panel doors?

And then also in what sizes?

[Malcolm Schweizer]

Surprisingly, yesterday I got mine too... and I'm in Europe, Austria!

Now, since my mouse clicking finger works faster than my head, what it can be used for? :)

I just have beading blade for now. I'm going to use it for the purpose that combination plane guide says to: "Adding a bead to a tongue-and-groove joint minimizes the visual effect of expansion and contraction." But what else?

I have no idea what the reeding is for, and little about fluting.

And I think it will be useful as rabbeting plane too, because it can be transformed from right-hand plane to left-hand plane to follow the grain. I have only right-hand skew rabbet (filister) plane. Same goes for grooving.

Maybe also for decoration of internal edges of frame and panel doors?

And then also in what sizes?


Impressive that you already got yours with international shipping! As for reeding versus fluting, see this image: http://www.livinghomefurniture.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/fluted-reeded-wood-shaping.jpg

[Andrey Kharitonkin]

Impressive that you already got yours with international shipping! As for reeding versus fluting, see this image

It was shipped from Germany, fine-tools.com and dictum.de already have it since last Friday, impressively surprised myself...

Aha, so fluting is repeated several times to match reeding in inverse. Does that mean that repeated beeding gives reeding... or that reeding with two reeds can be repeated to produce multiple reeds?

I think I need to know more about them, where they are used functionally and stylistically...

And what about those ogees, hollows and rounds. And custom profiles?

(I don't like to use electric router.)

[Patrick Chase]

It was shipped from Germany, fine-tools.com and dictum.de already have it since last Friday, impressively surprised myself...

It would appear that LV is filling their third-party distribution channels before their own stores. Probably a smart move on their part.


And what about those ogees, hollows and rounds.

Like the Stanley 45 the LV combination plane has two skates at the same height, so it's basically limited to cutters that protrude the same distance on both edges and that don't protrude any further in the middle than on the edges. That rules out most complex profiles (including ogees), rounds, and many practical applications of hollows
.
To support profiles with different extensions on each end you need the second skate to be adjustable in height. In order to support profiles that protrude further in the middle than on the ends you need a third adjustable-height center/auxiliary skate. There is a combination plane with both of those features: The Stanley #55.

[Andrey Kharitonkin]

It would appear that LV is filling their third-party distribution channels before their own stores. Probably a smart move on their part.

We don't have the box and the new cutters over here yet though...



Like the Stanley 45 the LV combination plane has two skates at the same height, so it's basically limited to cutters that protrude the same distance on both edges and that don't protrude any further in the middle than on the edges. That rules out most complex profiles (including ogees), rounds, and many practical applications of hollows
.
To support profiles with different extensions on each end you need the second skate to be adjustable in height. In order to support profiles that protrude further in the middle than on the ends you need a third adjustable-height center/auxiliary skate. There is a combination plane with both of those features: The Stanley #55.


I started to read about #55 on the well-known site about Stanley planes... I was waiting long time for Veritas Combination plane just because I'm not comfortable with buying vintage ones from ebay that costs so much. Stanley #55 is tempting but scary in frustration at the same time.

But after reading a bit, maybe there will be some "attachments" to the Vertias plane? Like there is wide blade conversion for Small Plow plane, hmm... something like additional bottoms or skate with vertical adjustment? :)

Could it be possible to stick some wooden blocks between the skates to make a hollow?

Maybe it is just entrance to wooden moulding planes rabbit hole for me... Is it difficult to make wooden moulding plane?

[Noah Magnuson]

This is surely blasphemy, but mine has been in the cardboard shipping box since Monday. Just went into escrow on a house, so I have been busy with the 'to do' list. I will play with it this evening and see how it does with some of the #55 blades. The good news is the new garage is 100 sf bigger and if that isn't enough, I have permission to build a proper shop.

[Malcolm Schweizer]

This is surely blasphemy, but mine has been in the cardboard shipping box since Monday. Just went into escrow on a house, so I have been busy with the 'to do' list. I will play with it this evening and see how it does with some of the #55 blades. The good news is the new garage is 100 sf bigger and if that isn't enough, I have permission to build a proper shop.

100 sf bigger isn't enough. You need that proper shop.


*** NOTE: I have never seen your shop, and it may be huge, but you don't seem to know what a rarity it is to have permission like this. If she gives you permission, you build it. It doesn't really matter if you need it or not- she will change her mind tomorrow. The moment you have permission, you just do it. How soon can you break ground?

You can thank me later when she says, "You know, maybe you don't need to build that shop," and you say, "Awww, gee honey- I wish you had said that sooner- I already hired the contractor and broke ground. It's too late to turn back now."

[Patrick Chase]

I started to read about #55 on the well-known site about Stanley planes... I was waiting long time for Veritas Combination plane just because I'm not comfortable with buying vintage ones from ebay that costs so much. Stanley #55 is tempting but scary in frustration at the same time.

Yeah, I recently bought a #55 from the tool dealer that wrote the well-known site about Stanley planes. Like you I didn't want to play the "eBay lottery" so I went the dealer route instead.

IMO it's not quite as bad as its reputation, but you have to pay close attention to how a bunch of things are aligned. For example fence-to-iron parallelism, fence-to-skate parallelism, secondary- and auxiliary-fence positions w.r.t. iron, etc etc. Basically it's as good (or bad) as you are careful and methodical (or not).

[Noah Magnuson]

Lol. I have been working out of a 19' x 19' garage that shares room with everything else (lawnmowers, ladders, power tools etc.). Every time I drive by a huge steel building for lease, I joke, "There's my shop". Hopefully that has skewed her perception and 20' x 30' won't seem out of line. I'm pretty sure I could make use of the Tillamook blimp hangar though.

[Noah Magnuson]

So I cracked open the box and fiddled with it for a bit this evening. First impressions are that it is very well made with solid tolerances all around. There are a ton of knobs so you have to make sure and double check them all before you go at it. I didn't look at the instructions, but it is pretty intuitive. I have the small plow, but it is the only similar tool I have used, so I consider it pretty good when I don't have to guess what some knob does.

I threw on a random profile cutter (ogee 104) from my set of 55s, and it made a pretty nice profile on this oak scrap with little setup considering it was not even sharp (the chunks out on the backside are some shallow dados, not tearout). I showed my wife and she said, "Is that your new tool? You can use it when you make the new dining table." Gotta love her.
367057

I'm not sure what kind of steel the nickers are made of, but the tips burred really easily at first when I was dadoing some pine until I got to a meatier part of the steel. After filing them flush again, they held up fine.

[Patrick Chase]

So I cracked open the box and fiddled with it for a bit this evening. First impressions are that it is very well made with solid tolerances all around. There are a ton of knobs so you have to make sure and double check them all before you go at it. I didn't look at the instructions, but it is pretty intuitive. I have the small plow, but it is the only similar tool I have used, so I consider it pretty good when I don't have to guess what some knob does.

I threw on a random profile cutter (ogee 104) from my set of 55s, and it made a pretty nice profile on this oak scrap with little setup considering it was not even sharp (the chunks out on the backside are some shallow dados, not tearout). I showed my wife and she said, "Is that your new tool? You can use it when you make the new dining table." Gotta love her.

How did you position the skates with that cutter? IIRC the edges of the #55 ogee cutters are at different heights (I don't have mine in front of me right now). Did you position one of the skates more towards the middle to get it to sit at the same depth as the edge?

Sounds like time to sharpen up those cutters :-)

[Noah Magnuson]

How did you position the skates with that cutter? IIRC the edges of the #55 ogee cutters are at different heights. Did you position one of the skates more towards the middle to get it to sit at the same depth as the edge?

All I did was run the leading edge of the profile just proud of the skate, then cranked it forward each pass until the whole profile cleared both skates. Then just let the depth stop handle the rest. I didn't really think about too hard. There may be a better way.

[Patrick Chase]

All I did was run the leading edge of the profile just proud of the skate, then cranked it forward each pass until the whole profile cleared both skates. Then just let the depth stop handle the rest. I didn't really think about too hard. There may be a better way.

You got somewhat lucky that the plane didn't nosedive "diagonally", since it was only riding on one skate (the one that the iron hadn't yet reached) for most of the work. Stanley would describe that as an unsupported configuration. They recommend no fewer than 3 skates engaged with the wood with that cutter.

[Noah Magnuson]

I guess I don't understand. It was still against both skates the whole time. I had them set just as wide as the blade. Nothing was unsupported where it could nosedive. I used the fence to keep it against the wood and just ran the iron out a crank at a time. It went quite smoothly.

[Patrick Chase]

I guess I don't understand. It was still against both skates the whole time. I had them set just as wide as the blade. Nothing was unsupported where it could nosedive. I used the fence to keep it against the wood and just ran the iron out a crank at a time. It went quite smoothly.

The iron may have been against both skates, but skates couldn't possibly have both been riding on the workpiece, which is what I was referring to. Sorry for not being clearer.

I have my Stanley 102, 104, and 106 irons (the 3 ogees that come with the #55) in front of me as I write. Tbe left edge of the iron as viewed from behind the plane extends further than the right edge. This means that if the right edge was cutting then the left edge must have been extended well beyond the bottom of the left skate, which in turn means that the left skate could not have been in contact with the wood. The only way to support an iron like that with both skates riding on the wood is via an adjustable-height skate like the #55's.

As I said above, Stanley's manual specifically recommends using the 55's third auxiliary skate with those particular irons, to provide 3 lines of support for the forebody of the plane.

[Noah Magnuson]

Ah. I see what you are saying. In this case, there is the fence and a single skate holding it true and the blade started way back. Since I used the blade adjuster to let the profile in a shaving at a time, it accomplishes the same thing as having the leading edge just proud of an adjustable height skate. As long as you hold it square it cant bite more than a shaving. I don't have a 55 manual, but I would think they recommend it so that it works like a proper moulding plane and controls the depth of "dig" for all three tips of the profile where you can just run it until the depth stop(s) hit rather than necessarily just support.

Anyway, an adjustable height sounds like would have made it easier and preferred since you wouldn't have to let the blade down, but I don't think there was much risk of digging in the way I was doing it. You might get some chatter on the real long ogee profiles that come to a tip. Will have to try. Glad I don't have Stanley telling me what I can't do ;)

Oh yeah, there are a ton of little things on here that make you realize they really thought this out as far as access and adjustment. I will have to read the instructions today, lol.

Thanks Rob!

[Patrick Chase]

Ah. I see what you are saying. In this case, there is the fence and a single skate holding it true and the blade started way back. Since I used the blade adjuster to let the profile in a shaving at a time, it accomplishes the same thing as having the leading edge just proud of an adjustable height skate. As long as you hold it square it cant bite more than a shaving. I don't have a 55 manual, but I would think they recommend it so that it works like a proper moulding plane and controls the depth of "dig" for all three tips of the profile where you can just run it until the depth stop(s) hit rather than necessarily just support.

That's basically right, and what I was referring to when I mentioned "diagonal nosedive". If one of those unsupported tips digs in the whole thing can end up sort of crosseyed in short order (one end low and twisted overall).

EDIT: Now that I read more carefully I understand what you did. You used the far depth adjuster (the one on the side with the "airborn skate") as a continuously engaged auxiliary skate. Note that you can't always do that (sometimes there simply isn't a surface that adjuster can ride on) but yeah, that seems like a reasonable workaround. You don't get much support at the toe that way, but I can see how it would work with shallow cuts and careful technique.

[Jim Koepke]

Noah describes a process similar to one I have used at times. There is a bit more about it here:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?242089-Stopped-Grooves-amp-Dadoes-with-a-Plow-Plane

This came to me while wondering about a small percentage of Stanley #45 fences having cut outs for a blade.

It seems there were a few folks back in the day that also didn't like being told what they couldn't do.

One problem with the #45 is the blade might move laterally. One has to keep an eye on that.

BTW, my recollection is not only is this method alluded to in the #55 manual, there is a screw to place in the adjustable skate to help alleviate the problem.

jtk

[Bill Houghton]

+1 there for me too. How do you not support a company who's president takes the time to help individual customers out like this?

And not just that, but honors and clearly likes his staff?

[Patrick Chase]

FWIW, Stanley's recommended skate configurations for various complex profiles with the #55 are shown on p. 16-17 here (http://tooltrip.com/tooltrip9/stanley/comb-planes/55man.pdf). The Roman Ogee is fig. 64 and the Grecian Ogee is fig. 68.

In all figures the main skate (the one with the blade clamp and adjustment) is on the left, the adjustable-depth skate is on the right, and the auxiliary skate (if present) is in the middle.

[Noah Magnuson]

FWIW, Stanley's recommended skate configurations for various complex profiles with the #55 are shown on p. 16-17 here (http://tooltrip.com/tooltrip9/stanley/comb-planes/55man.pdf). The Roman Ogee is fig. 64 and the Grecian Ogee is fig. 68.

In all figures the main skate (the one with the blade clamp and adjustment) is on the left, the adjustable-depth skate is on the right, and the auxiliary skate (if present) is in the middle.

Thanks. I have a 55 that came with a set of cutters. It will get cleaned up and re-homed. This will come in handy for this and give me some ideas for the using the more complex cutters on this plane.

[Patrick Chase]

Thanks. I have a 55 that came with a set of cutters. It will get cleaned up and re-homed. This will come in handy for this and give me some ideas for the using the more complex cutters on this plane.

Hopefully those cutters are in good shape - Mine came with factory grinds on most of the complex ones, and even so it was a lot of work to prepare them all. Flattening the backs immediately behind the edges would have been a never-ending chore without a platter grinder (Veritas Mk II in my case) and diamond discs.

I'm planning to get the Veritas as you already have, for use with simpler profiles. I bought the 55 both for the irons and for use with complex profiles.

My take so far is that while unquestionably very complex the 55 isn't as difficult as its reputation, and the extra support from the adjustable-height skate and the auxiliary are worth the hassle. There are some gotchas to be aware of, for example the fact that the fence-tightening mechanism tends to skew the fence if you aren't careful, because the fence lock screws on the front and back shafts tend to bias the fence in opposite directions when tightened. The fence also needs to be parallel to the cutter edge, but in mine the main fence wouldn't quite rotate to vertical, so I planed the rosewood a bit where it meets the fence casting's vertical stop surface so that it could rotate further.

All in all I think that it's worth having a simpler combo like the Veritas or 45 for cases where you don't need all of the adjustability.

[Jim Koepke]

All in all I think that it's worth having a simpler combo like the Veritas or 45 for cases where you don't need all of the adjustability.

And maybe a smaller plane like the Veritas small plow or a #50 or similar for the simple stuff.


I have a 55 that came with a set of cutters. It will get cleaned up and re-homed.

Here is a good article on that:

https://blog.lostartpress.com/2017/02/16/how-to-sharpen-moulding-plane-cutters/

One of my threads also covers a bit about sharpening molding plane blades:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?242156-Old-Molding-Planes-and-the-Rehab-Enthusiast

Making one's old molding can be quite a rewarding experience.

jtk

[Patrick Chase]

And maybe a smaller plane like the Veritas small plow or a #50 or similar for the simple stuff.

I already have the small plow. I think that the Combo still makes a lot of sense in between that and the #55 though. While it can be adapted to larger irons with a (short) add-on skate, IMO the small plow works best as, well, a small plow.

[Noah Magnuson]

I already have the small plow. I think that the Combo still makes a lot of sense in between that and the #55 though. While it can be adapted to larger irons with a (short) add-on skate, IMO the small plow works best as, well, a small plow.

I have the small plow and plan on continuing to use it for what it is (very) good at. However, bigger/wider dado, reeding, beeding, is for the large plow, and honestly in spite of the fact that it can do it, I would tend to use moulding planes for any repeatable moulding. It is well worth having dedicated moulders.

[Patrick Chase]

I have the small plow and plan on continuing to use it for what it is (very) good at. However, bigger/wider dado, reeding, beeding, is for the large plow, and honestly in spite of the fact that it can do it, I would tend to use moulding planes for any repeatable moulding. It is well worth having dedicated moulders.

Yeah, I'm coming to learn that there's a lot to be said for a proper mouth and a sprung fence.

[Bill Houghton]

Yeah, I'm coming to learn that there's a lot to be said for...a sprung fence.

Elaborate, please?

[Jim Koepke]

Elaborate, please?

Patrick will have to speak for himself, for me it means having a molding plane with a fence as part of the sole and having a sole matching the blade. It can do a better job than a plane like the Stanley #55. The advantage of the combination plane is it can so the work of a shelf or two full of dedicated molding planes.

A wooden sole also helps to register on the work as the cut is being made.

A sprung fence may be in reference to the spring line or strike line on some molding planes that cut their shape at an angle other than 90º from the work's edge.

jtk

[Patrick Chase]

Elaborate, please?

A sprung molding plane is one that cuts at an angle such that the fence isn't all the way parallel to the plane's tall axis. This means that applying force straight down on the plane both drives the edge into the work and holds the fence against the work. See this (http://www.cornishworkshop.co.uk/woodenplane.html) for example (pix and second to last para).

One of the things you have to be careful about with combo planes like the 45/55/etc is to use your second hand to keep the fence registered to the work. A sprung plane somewhat mitigates that concern, because the very act of pushing the plane also provides force to register the fence.

[Patrick Chase]

A sprung fence may be in reference to the spring line or strike line on some molding planes that cut their shape at an angle other than 90º from the work's edge.

jtk

Yes, exactly (but more precisely worded than my post - thanks!)

[Jim Koepke]

Yes, exactly (but more precisely worded than my post - thanks!)

Your welcome, the more ways something can be explained, the more likely readers will be able to glean information from these threads.

jtk

[Brian Loran]

Just a heads up to those that have this plane to watch out for the spur adjustment screws (the ones that push the blades out horizontally) falling out. I was planing away when I noticed one sitting on the bench and then noticed the other one was gone. I got lucky and found it in the pile of shavings on the floor but others may not be so lucky... I think I will keep them in the box unless I need them.

[Mike Brady]

I've lost one of my spur adjustment screws already, and speaking of spurs....these are pretty soft. Some pine I was dadoing bent the tips over.

[steven c newman]

Really.......I might have a spare spur from my #45 you could borrow...might even have a spare bolt.... haven't found a need to sharpen mine..yet. Even after Maple....

[Patrick Chase]

I've lost one of my spur adjustment screws already, and speaking of spurs....these are pretty soft. Some pine I was dadoing bent the tips over.

Spurs are typically about Rc50, or roughly the same hardness as a quality scraper or sawplate. One thing to keep in mind is that they should only protrude a hair more the plane iron itself. Going deeper than that adds no benefit (the purpose of the nicker is to prevent tearing at the edge of the cut, so it need only extend as deep as the cut), but is a sure way to wear them out or deform them.

I've had good luck fabricating nickers from blue-hard 1095 sheet stock of appropriate thickness (0.05" for Stanley 55, IDK about others), which is about the right hardness and can be filed to shape. The only hard part is the beveled slot, which requires some patience and skill with needle files. In my experience the trick is to cut out a strip of the right width but at least 1/2" longer than you need, and use that extra length to hold it in a vise while you file out the slot. You can then cut to length and file the tips.

[Patrick Chase]

Really.......I might have a spare spur from my #45 you could borrow...might even have a spare bolt.... haven't found a need to sharpen mine..yet. Even after Maple....

Those go for about $15 from plane parts dealers (for the oldest pre-1920 version. Stanley went through 3 nicker iterations over the life of the 45/55).

[Mike Brady]

I ordered some extras and also made a pair of nickers from a .040 scraper that I had previous cannibalized for a scratch stock cutter. I'll make sure to set them very shallow.

[steven c newman]

Watch out for the ones for the #39-1/2.......junk, soft, almost bend when you sneeze on them...DAMHIKT.:rolleyes:

367330
Two different planes, two VERY different spurs. The #78 is the same as a #45's

That #39? flimsy.

367331
Long slots don't help much.
367332A close up of a spur on the #45
This was right after I got this plane home. Needed a bit of clean up....

[Patrick Chase]

I ordered some extras and also made a pair of nickers from a .040 scraper that I had previous cannibalized for a scratch stock cutter. I'll make sure to set them very shallow.

I don't know how thick the Veritas nickers are, but the Stanleys were definitely 0.05" circa 1910. I know this because I initially did what you describe (fabricated a nicker from a 40-mil scraper) and I had to use 10-mil shim stock between it and the skate to get it to cut flush to the edge. I subsequently bought a 50 mil sheet of 1095 from McMaster-Carr.

[steven c newman]

Closer views?
367361
Stanley #78 style....bolt is longer, about all..
367362
There are three spurs for my Stanley #45, sitting in their "holder" a series of holes for the bolts to sit in.
367363
Stanley #39-3/8".....it has two spurs, as it is a dado plane.
367364
Need to use a "batten" across the board, to guide it. Iron sits at a skew.

[Patrick Chase]

There are three spurs for my Stanley #45, sitting in their "holder" a series of holes for the bolts to sit in.

Those spurs are the 3rd, "T-shaped" iteration. Your 45 must be post-WWI?

[steven c newman]

Nope, SW era, 1920s....

[Patrick Chase]

Nope, SW era, 1920s....

I said "post-WWI" (i.e. after 1918), not post-WWII :-). Your plane is towards the beginning of the era of the "T-style" nickers.

[steven c newman]

Whatever....
367367
Roxton Pond, Que. Canada
367368
Rotated up, and out of the way.

[Mike Brady]

The nickers in question are roughly 1/2" wide, spear-point blades. Spurs are, well...spurs. In my opinion, the best design is the round cutter like on the Tite-Mark marking gauge. They take and keep an edge well and honing is easy...you just put them face down on your media using your finger and give them a few swipes. When used as nickers they usually have a small flat on the edge so you can rotate them out of use. I have a LN plane that has that arrangement.