New laser issues with Cermark possibly too hot?

[Patrick McCoy Arkansas]

Ok, so here is a new one. While I'm still a newbie (right around 1,000 items marked), I have yet to experience this. So pretty simple cermark on stainless Rtic cups. I have completed many with little to no issues. This time, you can see from the pictures, that the cermark area is simply flaking off. Each cup was set with different settings and dpi with similar results.
I prep the cups with DA
I use the Cermark can spray LMM-6000
I'm using an Epilog Legend 36xt 60 watt
Settings are 100 pwr 20-35 speed (same settings I've used for nearly all of my marking of stainless
600dpi

Of note, I did have one wood project last week that was burning much darker than I'm used to. Even when dropping the power considerably and increasing the speed. I chalked it up to the type of wood and the stain. However, it certainly seemed to be "hot" and more flame than I've ever seen.

I'm usually fighting what seems to be a loss of power, but now ?

Any thoughts are greatly appreciated. 366021366022366023366024366025

[Kev Williams]

My Cermark ends up white-ish all the time, but it's black once I wash off all the excess--

But yours looks like it's crusting and popping off. Cermark from a can, it may be you're mix is coming out too rich...

The other day I punctured a half full can of Cermark I've had for probably 3 years, I was at risk of running out of my normal batch over the weekend.. After the pressure bled out I hacksawed the top of the can off, and poured the contents into an empty 500gm bottle. I was able to more than double the amount with DNA, and it's still plenty thick enough to brush, and it works great! (it's the old formula, still like it much better than the new). Anyway, could be your Cermark. Also, wash them off and lets see them! :)

That all said, you mentioned cutting wood beforehand. Almost always when I have a Cermark issue or some piece of Rowmark didn't cut as it normally does, I'll find a mirror or the lens has some guck on it. Or a loose mirror or lens. Your dark wood engraving could be the result of it's own smoke hazing some of the optics, and it's messing with the Cermark...

[Gary Hair]

I think you have applied way too much Cermark. If you can't see any metal through the Cermark then you have too much! I know the spray cans may make it hard to get a thin coat, but that's why a lot of people don't use them. That, and they cost many times more than buying the paste and brushing or airbrushing.

Is this a new laser for you? If so, even if not, you should really do a test grid to determine your best settings. Those three cups are scrap and would make great test subjects!

First - spray or brush on a very thin layer of Cermark
Second - laser 1/4" squares with 100% power and varying speeds - for your 60 watt laser it's likely to be in the 30% - 60% speed range. 600 dpi is fine, and it's what I use mostly.
Last - scrub the marks with a gray scotchbrite pad - it will be very obvious what your speed setting should be, although you could have a range of 4 or 5% that will work.

[Mike Null]

I concur with what Kev and Gary have said. I am also a little concerned with your preparation. Sometimes DNA is not enough. I always have acetone handy if I suspect I'm not getting the item clean enough.

Again, stop using the spray cans--that's just throwing money down the drain.

[Kev Williams]

Also, about pre-cleaning stainless- Magic Erasers work wonders, and using 'normal' pressure, they won't even scratch mirror polished stainless (which is funny because nearly everything else in the world does!), I Cermark mirrored SS switchplates and they're what I use to get all the remaining Cermark off...