Which Plane - 5 or 5 1/2

[JohnM Martin]

I'm looking to purchase my first premium plane and upgrade my old bailey stanley no 5 with either a new LN no 5 or 5 1/2. Deciding to "upgrade" because 1) I finally have the budget for it and 2) I would like to see what its like to work with a good high quality plane.

It seems to me that there are guys coming out of the woodwork to say that the 5 1/2 is superior in every way to the no 5, but I'm wondering if there are any out there that actually prefer the no 5? I've never seen a 5 1/2 and don't have a good way to actually see one in person so was hoping to get some advice from those more experienced than I. I have looked up the weight/dimensions differences so I have a good feel for the differences there, but what I don't have a good feel for is how that translates to the real world. Is there anything that a 5 1/2 does better than a 5 and vise versa? My plan for this plane would be to set it up more for lighter cuts and tailor my current no 5 to be more for rough removal/dimensioning. I work a mix of both machine prepped stock and rough air-dried stock mostly in oak and walnut since that is what is most prevalent from my local sawyer.

How close is the 5 1/2 to a Stanley no 6?

If using this plane as mostly a smoother, would a 4 1/2 be a better fit?

I know a lot of this is personal preference and everyone is different, but I'm just curious what everyone thinks.

[David Eisenhauer]

One main difference between the 5 and 5-1/2 (besides length) is blade width. Same for the 4-1/2. The wider blades take that much more effort to push than the narrower blades. I am not saying that you have to be a weight lifter to push wider blades, but sometimes the narrower blades that require less effort to push are easier to control. Sort of like a sharp knife is easier to cut where you want to than a dull knife is. For my taste, the 5-1/2 is a lot closer to a 6 than a 5 is to a 4 if that makes sense. In my hands, a 5 is used a lot more than my 6 is, with the 7 covering lots of the 6 work. That is just my hands, yours may be different.

[Joel Thomas Runyan]

The 5.5 and 5 are both lengths best for medium to rough removal, not smoothing. The added width of the 5.5 is about your strength and work-rate, not much more. A 4 is hard to beat as in all purpose smoother, if not a 3, depending on the average size of your projects.

[steven c newman]

I have a #5-1/2 AND a #6c....both Stanleys...along with about 4 No. 5s.....

The #6 is more of a small jointer/ Fore plane. 3" longer than the same width 5-1/2. depends on how much weight you feel like pushing around. Try them out for a few hours....see which you pick up the next time....


The #5-1/2 was known as the Jumbo Jack.....

The #4-1/2? Nothing more than an overweight, fat #4. Same blade as the Jumbo Jack. Or the #6, or the #7...A #3 or #4 is much more agile, and a lot less tiring to use.

After a full day of using the larger planes...a #3 feels kind of nice....at least my shoulders think so....YMMV

[lowell holmes]

I have a 5-1/2 Bailey that I favor over my Bedrock planes. I have 604, 605, and 607 Bedrocks. I probably should sell them.
I also have a no. 3 Bailey that I favor.

[Patrick Chase]

the 5 is 14" long and has a 2" iron, while the 5-1/2 is 14.75" long and has a 2-3/8" iron. The length difference is almost imperceptible in use while the 18% width difference is more noticeable (though not as drastic as some make it sound).

As to which is "better" that's an entirely subjective preference, that only you can answer for yourself.

[Nathan Johnson]

I bought my Bailey 5 1/2 as a dedicated shooting board plane. At 2 pounds heavier than my 5s, I wouldn't want to be using it as I have my 5s.

[Derek Cohen]

I'm looking to purchase my first premium plane and upgrade my old bailey stanley no 5 with either a new LN no 5 or 5 1/2. Deciding to "upgrade" because 1) I finally have the budget for it and 2) I would like to see what its like to work with a good high quality plane.

John, to what purpose do you intend to use the plane? Most use a #5 as a coarse plane, that is, for fast removal of waste. In this disguise, it pays to have a light and nimble plane. Woodies take this one step further. I quite like a #5 also with a straight blade as a short jointer on narrow stock. Anything wider feels difficult to balance.

In recent decades, David Charlesworth gave the #5 1/2 a popular image as a "Super Smoother". However, David does not use other planes in preparing his stock, as far as I know. I have a #5 1/2 and find it a large and heavy plane. I doubt that I would wish to use it continuously (for several tasks).

Regards from Perth

Derek

[lowell holmes]

Just get the 5 1/2. You will not regret it. I have a 5 1/2 Bailey that I favor.

I always admired the 4 1/2 that Paul Sellers had when he was at Homestead Heritage.
I like the wide planes,

[Jim Koepke]

It seems to me that there are guys coming out of the woodwork to say that the 5 1/2 is superior in every way to the no 5, but I'm wondering if there are any out there that actually prefer the no 5? I've never seen a 5 1/2 and don't have a good way to actually see one in person so was hoping to get some advice from those more experienced than I. I have looked up the weight/dimensions differences so I have a good feel for the differences there, but what I don't have a good feel for is how that translates to the real world. Is there anything that a 5 1/2 does better than a 5 and vise versa? My plan for this plane would be to set it up more for lighter cuts and tailor my current no 5 to be more for rough removal/dimensioning. I work a mix of both machine prepped stock and rough air-dried stock mostly in oak and walnut since that is what is most prevalent from my local sawyer.

How close is the 5 1/2 to a Stanley no 6?

If using this plane as mostly a smoother, would a 4 1/2 be a better fit?

It is difficult to respond to this without a bit more information. Do you have a #6, #7 or #8 sized plane? My #6 gets used more than my #5-1/2. Perhaps if it needed to be carried around in a tool box the #5-1/2 would be taken instead of a #6.

My suggestion would be to acquire something different than what is already in your kit.

If you are going for a smoother a #4-1/2 would be more in line with the purpose.

In reality, any plane can be used for smoothing, some are more adept at the job.

Since "what is most prevalent from the local sawyer" is oak and walnut my guess is you are not near enough to come by and give the different planes a test drive.

If you do not already have a #3 or #4, my suggestion would be to get one of those for your final smoothing needs. A #4-1/2 may be more in line if you do a lot of large panels or wide boards. Depending on the job at hand my #3 and #4 usually see more use than my #4-1/2. Often, especially later in the day, my #3 gets used more than my #4.

It was hard for me to decide, so when they were found on rust hunts, at least one of each size was acquired. It isn't necessary, but I wouldn't have it any other way.

jtk

[Joe A Faulkner]

Where are you located? Maybe someone near you has a 5 1/2 you could take for a test drive and then you could decide whether to acquire a 5 or 5 1/2.

[Hasin Haroon]

Hi John,

If you want to set it up to take light cuts for smoothing large boards/panels, I would recommend a 5 1/2. But that is the only circumstance where I would recommend a 5 1/2 over a 5, as it is noticeably more unwieldy than a 5 for jointing or regular rough work. My Veritas 5 1/2 is used for smoothing and is set up with a 55 degree frog. A 55 degree frog makes it tougher to push, so I use the added mass of the 5 1/2 to add momentum and make it easier.

[steven c newman]

Simple test...pick a #5 and a 5-1/2 up, one in each hand....see how long before one is set back down....

Momentum might be nice....until you have to drag the plane BACK to the start point...after awhile, that extra weight gets old.

365751
Of the four #5 sized planes, this one has the most camber, as it is used for this sort of thing..
365752
There are also two Stanleys, each a little less camber, one having none. There is a Millers Falls No. 14 that barely has any. My #5-1/2 has no camber, nor does the #6 or #7...Then there is Mister Everything....Millers Falls No. 11, a #5-1/4 sized plane. Small jack, light and nimble, no camber. Smoothing is done with either the Stanley #4c, or one of the smaller Millers Falls planes.

I used what best suits the size of the work being done.

A small smoother can "turn on a dime" to deal with reversing grain.....a No. 5-1/2 cannot. Almost like trying to spin the USS Iowa around at speed....compared to a Coast Guard Cutter...

[JohnM Martin]

Lowell, thats interesting. For most people, isn't it the other way around? Prices seem to sure seem higher for Bedrocks, but maybe there is something I don't understand about plane prices. What is it about the Bailey that you prefer?

[JohnM Martin]

John, to what purpose do you intend to use the plane? Most use a #5 as a coarse plane, that is, for fast removal of waste. In this disguise, it pays to have a light and nimble plane. Woodies take this one step further. I quite like a #5 also with a straight blade as a short jointer on narrow stock. Anything wider feels difficult to balance...

I think was thinking of putting a good camber on the iron of the #5 I currently own and use it for dedicated rough removal. I was thinking of getting a nice jack plane to take over standard jack duties and maybe do some dressing of machine prepped stock. I have a #4 Bailey with a LV blade and chip breaker, and it peforms pretty well... Maybe I'm just intrigued by the 1/2 size planes. For some reason, it just seems like the #5 is a great all around - I've never (admittedly pretty new to woodworking) wished my #5 was wider or longer. In that case, I just reach for the #6 or #7 depending on the task. But maybe I'm odd... I really enjoy the #6 and it seems like it is regarded as the red headed step child of the bunch.

[JohnM Martin]

It is difficult to respond to this without a bit more information. Do you have a #6, #7 or #8 sized plane? My #6 gets used more than my #5-1/2. Perhaps if it needed to be carried around in a tool box the #5-1/2 would be taken instead of a #6.

My suggestion would be to acquire something different than what is already in your kit.

If you are going for a smoother a #4-1/2 would be more in line with the purpose.

In reality, any plane can be used for smoothing, some are more adept at the job.

Since "what is most prevalent from the local sawyer" is oak and walnut my guess is you are not near enough to come by and give the different planes a test drive.

If you do not already have a #3 or #4, my suggestion would be to get one of those for your final smoothing needs. A #4-1/2 may be more in line if you do a lot of large panels or wide boards. Depending on the job at hand my #3 and #4 usually see more use than my #4-1/2. Often, especially later in the day, my #3 gets used more than my #4.

It was hard for me to decide, so when they were found on rust hunts, at least one of each size was acquired. It isn't necessary, but I wouldn't have it any other way.

jtk

jtk

I have a #3 that needs attention #4, #5, #6, #7. The first planes I bought were the #3 and #5 from the auction site. They were cheap and I didn't really know what to look for so those are the weakest performers. I really enjoy the #6 and use it more than the #7 unless I'm dealing with long boards. I also have a LN no 62, but I never have connected with the bevel up design. I like the lateral adjustment of the bevel down planes.

The more I read and think on it, your comment about the #6 seeing more use than the 5 1/2 seems to make sense to me.

I'm in Oklahoma City, so it would be quite a trip to test drive the planes :)

The 4 1/2 is starting to sound better and better or just getting a really nice #5.

[JohnM Martin]

Simple test...pick a #5 and a 5-1/2 up, one in each hand....see how long before one is set back down....

Momentum might be nice....until you have to drag the plane BACK to the start point...after awhile, that extra weight gets old.

365751
Of the four #5 sized planes, this one has the most camber, as it is used for this sort of thing..
365752
There are also two Stanleys, each a little less camber, one having none. There is a Millers Falls No. 14 that barely has any. My #5-1/2 has no camber, nor does the #6 or #7...Then there is Mister Everything....Millers Falls No. 11, a #5-1/4 sized plane. Small jack, light and nimble, no camber. Smoothing is done with either the Stanley #4c, or one of the smaller Millers Falls planes.

I used what best suits the size of the work being done.

A small smoother can "turn on a dime" to deal with reversing grain.....a No. 5-1/2 cannot. Almost like trying to spin the USS Iowa around at speed....compared to a Coast Guard Cutter...

The points are well made. I'm leaning away from the 5 1/2 at this point because for what I do, I don't think it will see much use and I already have a nice #6 that performs really well.

I hadn't thought about difficult grain situations; I agree. For that, it seems a standard #4 would be the ticket.

[Kees Heiden]

From what I read, I don't think you need another plane. Use the money for something usefull, I'd say, how about a new iPhone?

I've never understood the jack of all trades moniker for the #5. It's great as a roughing plane ( light weight but still some length to keep the boards straightish), but not so great for anything else. Too short for a jointer, too long for a smoother.

[Pat Barry]

I like the versatility of a number 5. You mention that the one you have is one of your weakest performers. Perhaps a better number 5 solves your problems. I have maybe 5 or 6 different number 5 planes. I use two of them and the other 3 or 4 gather dust because they just don't work very well. I think you have a good spectrum of bench planes and now you need to focus on getting them in shape or replacing them, not necessarily adding to your assortment of sizes.

[Brian Holcombe]

A 5 is long for a smoother, so bear in mind that you will need to be working with very flat lumber in order to get a perfect finish. A 4 or 4-1/2 makes a better smoother.

[Nathan Johnson]

I like the versatility of a number 5. You mention that the one you have is one of your weakest performers. Perhaps a better number 5 solves your problems. I have maybe 5 or 6 different number 5 planes. I use two of them and the other 3 or 4 gather dust because they just don't work very well. I think you have a good spectrum of bench planes and now you need to focus on getting them in shape or replacing them, not necessarily adding to your assortment of sizes.

Being very new to handplanes, can I ask why the 3 or 4 don't work well? Are there specific reasons, things maybe I should look out for when acquiring planes, or is it more a matter of not having tuned them up fully?

[JohnM Martin]

Being very new to handplanes, can I ask why the 3 or 4 don't work well? Are there specific reasons, things maybe I should look out for when acquiring planes, or is it more a matter of not having tuned them up fully?

In my instance, both my #3 and #4 are auction site finds. The iron on my #3 isn't flat and the cutting edge looks pretty bad. I guess the previous owner was pretty hard on it. In addition, the chip breaker doesn't mate well with the iron and chips work their way between the iron and chip breaker. I haven't yet spent the time or money on new components to get it right - mostly because I've been working on my #4. Overall, I am pretty happy with my #4 after upgrading the iron and chip breaker and spending some time with it to tune it up.

Having said that, I can't help but wonder what it's like to work with a new premium plane. Boil it all down, and this curiosity is probably what's mostly driving my desire to pickup a new plane.

[JohnM Martin]

A 5 is long for a smoother, so bear in mind that you will need to be working with very flat lumber in order to get a perfect finish. A 4 or 4-1/2 makes a better smoother.

Starting to lean towards a 4 1/2. Brian, which would you give the edge to - the 4 or 4 1/2?

[Brian Holcombe]

I own a 4 and use it a lot, I have Japanese planes for when I want to take a wider shaving.

For panel work I usually prefer a narrower plane, so often enough I will use my 4 or a thin (54mm?) Japanese plane. In other words I would go for the 4 given the identical set of choices a second time around.

[lowell holmes]

Lowell, thats interesting. For most people, isn't it the other way around? Prices seem to sure seem higher for Bedrocks, but maybe there is something I don't understand about plane prices. What is it about the Bailey that you prefer?

The no.3 is a neat small package to use, it makes translucent shavings and smooths very well. I just like the balance of the plane. It is more narrow than my bedrocks.
I will never dispose of my Bedrocks. They have mystic and the shape is good. I have never seen a 603 Bedrock. If I ever held one, I might prefer it.
I just feel the Bedrocks, while visually attractive don't provide any real advantage.
I have never seen a 5 1/2 Bedrock. If I did, I might want it.

The 5 1/2 is very close to a no.6.

[Jim Koepke]

In my instance, both my #3 and #4 are auction site finds. The iron on my #3 isn't flat and the cutting edge looks pretty bad. I guess the previous owner was pretty hard on it. In addition, the chip breaker doesn't mate well with the iron and chips work their way between the iron and chip breaker. I haven't yet spent the time or money on new components to get it right - mostly because I've been working on my #4. Overall, I am pretty happy with my #4 after upgrading the iron and chip breaker and spending some time with it to tune it up.

Having said that, I can't help but wonder what it's like to work with a new premium plane. Boil it all down, and this curiosity is probably what's mostly driving my desire to pickup a new plane.

You could be amazed at how a little effort to tune up your planes will do to improve their performance.

Type > from junker to jointer < into Google and it will lead you to this:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?114373-Fettling-A-Plane-from-Junker-to-Jointer

A ways down in the thread is information on how to deal with a chip breaker that doesn't mate well with the iron. Of course in your case it may be due to the out of flat blade. You may have to acquire a replacement to get it to work well if it can not be remedied with sandpaper and stones.

jtk

[Graham Haydon]

You seem to have a nice selection. Don't feel you need a 5 1/2, but if you fancy trying one then go for it. Don't expect a quantum leap in your woodworking if you do decide to purchase one.

[bridger berdel]

I have a #5-1/2 AND a #6c....both Stanleys...along with about 4 No. 5s.....

The #6 is more of a small jointer/ Fore plane. 3" longer than the same width 5-1/2. depends on how much weight you feel like pushing around. Try them out for a few hours....see which you pick up the next time....


The #5-1/2 was known as the Jumbo Jack.....

The #4-1/2? Nothing more than an overweight, fat #4. Same blade as the Jumbo Jack. Or the #6, or the #7...A #3 or #4 is much more agile, and a lot less tiring to use.

After a full day of using the larger planes...a #3 feels kind of nice....at least my shoulders think so....YMMV

When I have a full day of work with long planes I quickly gravitate to Wood body planes.

[James Waldron]

I'm looking to purchase my first premium plane and upgrade my old bailey stanley no 5 with either a new LN no 5 or 5 1/2. Deciding to "upgrade" because [snip] 2) I would like to see what its like to work with a good high quality plane.

[snip]


I know a lot of this is personal preference and everyone is different, but I'm just curious what everyone thinks.

As others have said (very politely), a Bailey #5 is, in fact, a "premium plane" when properly fettled. From your comments, it seems to me you haven't done a lot to get it right; if your blade edge is rough and abused by a prior owner, it clearly needs to be ground and sharpened properly. If the blade's not flat, you need to flatten it. In a very large number of cases, these two steps will turn a dirty old clunker into a fine worker. Then cleaning and spiffing up can make things look better and often work better. To go spend a substantial chunk of change on a new plane because you want a "premium plane" suggests to me that you're not ready to recognize the jewel you already have - once it's tidied up.

The idea to turn a decent #5 needing some attention into a scrub plane prematurely would, in my view, be wasteful.

[Brian Lefort]

5 1/2 is a great plane for your shooting board. Check out some of the Rob Cosman stuff.

[Jim Koepke]

5 1/2 is a great plane for your shooting board. Check out some of the Rob Cosman stuff.

A low angle bevel up plane is even better on a shooting board.

jtk

[lowell holmes]

If you have a rust bucket handplane, you can de-rust it and coat with automotive paint with good results.

AND

If I ever run across a 4 1/2 I will jump on it.

[lowell holmes]

The 5 1/2 is 2 1/2" X 15", the 6 is 3" X 18". I tend to like large planes. They smooth wide and long boards quickly.

They have the mass to power through knots and such.

[steven c newman]

Older #5-1/2 WERE 2-1/4" wide irons....then they went to the same size as the #6, the #7....2-3/8" wide, as well as the #4-1/2.

The #8 was a whopping 2-5/8" wide iron.

3" between a 5-1/2 and a #6 in length....a #7 clocks in at 22", and the heavy-weight #8 is 24" long.

[steven c newman]

OK...Show & Tell Time.....
365867
Starting off with the Stanley No. 5c, set it beside a
365868
Stanley No. 5-1/2, Type 17.....not much longer, and a bit wider...
365869
A Stanley No. 6c, Type 10....same width, quite a few inches longer..
365870
Then sit a Stanley No. 7c down beside these "little " planes....followed by..
365871
A Stanley No. 8 and a Millers Falls No. 11....There are smaller planes handy..
365872
Stanley No.4c and a Millers Falls No. 8

Width of the larger planes?
365873
From a 2-5/8" wide iron down to that 1-3/4" Junior Jack's iron...
Choice is up to you....
365874
I tend to use about all of them...

[Jerry Olexa]

The 5 1/2 is wider and removes a wider curl....I think its a matter of what feels best in your hands, not what the research show,,Just my thought,

[Stew Denton]

John,

Some general comments, but first of all there are guys here, and several of those have already chimed in, who have more experience with significant hours use of the various sizes of planes than I do.

That said, I have a thought or two on your questions, and some comments on what has been said.

The first thought is a suggestion. Jim Mercer, at Woodcraft in Oklahoma City, is highly skilled at tuning planes, and that is putting it mildly. He offers a class in tuning handplanes. The schedule is on their site. It is not a free class, however I believe that it is worth every cent of the cost. I hope to take it in the future. They have a plane in the store that he has tuned, and you can try it on a piece of what appears to be hard maple. You will be utterly amazed at how well it works, it cuts curls that you can see through, and with virtually no effort. It is frighteningly sharp. I am not bad at sharpening my chisels and plane irons, but am not remotely in his league.

If I were you, I would stop in at Woodcraft when Jim is there, he is the manager and there most of the time, and let him look at your planes, the ones that don't work well, and do it well before the date of the class. If you need to get a different iron for the plane you plan to take to the class he can advise you, and you can get an iron well before you have your class, that is if you decide to take the class. In my view if the iron is beyond hope you should have a better iron before taking the class. He is a good guy, and extremely sharp on hand tool woodworking and planes. In my experience he probably would be willing to look at both of your questionable planes. He will tell you the truth about what you have, I believe. I think if you have a hopeless plane he will advise you such. Jim knows planes.

After you take the class you will be able to tune up all of your planes and get them extremely sharp. I do agree with one of the above posts, in that a well tuned up Stanley Bailey should preform in a premium way. The Baileys are good planes.

If you travel, and get through the Texas panhandle every now and then, let me know. I have both a #5 1/2 and #5, and will be glad to let you give them a go. Let me know well in advance though, so that I can sharpen up the 5 1/2, as only the planes I use most of the time are sharp, and currently the 5 1/2 is not sharp. I do get to OKC once in a great while too, and you might be able to try those two when I am in OKC.

I would agree with the several above folks, the #4 or #3 are better choices for smoothing than are a 5 or 5 1/2.

Generally speaking, you can tell a lot about what planes the test of time has chosen, as the most generally useful show up most often on sites like the auction site. There are far more #5s than #5 1/2s listed for sale at any given time. That tells me that a lot of folks who only bought one plane, or even those who bought more than one plane, went with a #5. It is lighter, easier to carry if you were a carpenter who had to carry his tools to the job in a tool box, and is suitable for many different tasks. That is NOT to say that for some jobs the #5 1/2 isn't better, and some folks prefer it, but generally speaking there are a whole lot more #5s out there.

Does this mean I would choose a #5 over a #4 for smoothing.....nope....but I have used a #5 for smoothing.

As per the usual, I have no financial interest in Woodcraft, nor am I in any way associated with Woodcraft or any of the staff there.

Stew

[Stew Denton]

Kees, the Jack of all trades, comes from it's general usefullness, and that a skilled man could do a lot with the #5. In this country, the phrase often went, when a general handy man described himself, "Jack of all trades, Master of none." The "master of none" part often went with the "Jack of all trades" part.

The phrase often meant that the guy was a handyman and could do a lot of different skills in a general way, and could do many small jobs from different trades to an acceptable level, but would not take on large jobs that took a high level of skill. Such a man might be someone who did work for himself on his own property such as a farmer, homeowner, or business owner, it might be a maintenance man for a very small plant or large building, or it might be a man who worked as a handyman.

A friend of mine did that kind of work for a while, and earned a living doing that. He knew a man that had earned his living that way his whole life. Men who do that kind of work generally charge a lower fee than does a master craftsman, and takes job that are small enough that a master craftsman generally does not want to take. Often the home owner or business owner knows a master craftsman is not needed for a small and relatively non-complex job, and he can save money by hiring a handyman that he trusts and also knows the handyman will do a good job.

The #5 plane is a plane of that sort in this country, a "handyman" sort of a plane. Most carpenters I knew when younger, carried a #5 plane if they only carried one plane, and most only carried one plane. I only had one bench plane (and well I also had a block plane) for many years, a #5. I used it to plane down doors to fit properly, to plane down a piece of lumber to get rid of mill marks (or used a belt sander) for uses such as making window sills or door jambs, and many other general carpentry applications.

That sort of usage was traditional, as 45 years before I started carpentering a lot of carpenters did not have a car, and they carried their tools to the job in a tool box, at least out in the small towns where I grew up. Consequently they could not take a lot of different tools with them. They carried one plane often, and that one plane was normally a #5. It had to be used as the fore plane, the jointer plane, and smoothing plane, and was called a Jack plane by the carpenters I knew.

Traditions die hard, and I will bet a lot of carpenters still only carry only a #5 plane and a block plane for all of their planing work. The new man on the job learns from the boss if he has little experience, and when the boss was young he learned to do everything with a #5 because that was the only plane he had.

In highly skilled hands a Jack plane could do all of those tasks, although clearly not as easily or well as the dedicated tool.

The hobby woodworker who made things as a hobby and he made toy boxs for his kids and later his grand kids, very likely only owned one bench plane for his woodworking, he used it for everything, and the plane was a #5 the large majority of the time.

A lot of #5s were sold in this country to folks who only owned one plane, home owners, maintenance men, farmers, carpenters, handymen, etc. That is why it was called a Jack plane. It has truly been a Jack of all trades, but master of none (well, it is a perfect choice for a fore plane) in this country, but in skilled hands a #5 can do a lot of fine work.

Stew

[lowell holmes]

There is a 605 1/2 on the auction site. I'm tempted . . . .

I don't need another plane.

[Andrey Kharitonkin]

I'm a beginner myself and I bought three planes with the same iron of the same width from Veritas - #4-1/2, #5-1/2 and #7, similar to BU family of planes where one iron is used in BUS, LAJ and BUJ plus shooting plane. I thought it is more flexible as I can switch irons with different curvature/angle between the planes.

It turns out that it is not all that needed as planes become assigned to a specific task. It is enough to have an extra iron for jointer and jack plane instead.

I like #4-1/2, as I work with wide boards mostly. I use #5-1/2 with curved blade as fore-fore plane, that is after narrow Veritas Scrub Plane but before #7. And I don't mind extra effort with wider blade since I don't do it all day. But I do prepare stock by hand only.

In a similar sense, I might say #5-1/2 is Super Scrub Plane to me! :)

[steven c newman]

Used this today...
366259
Was...ok for 24" edges....Type 17.
366260
But, on the drawer sides, I used a #5-1/4 ( Millers Falls No.11, type 2)
Board is Curly Maple...

[Ray Selinger]

Around here planes such as #5 aren't as common as #4s, but if I were to go to the fleamarket today my batting average would be 250.And the prices reflect this.$20-$40 #5 1/2s are much more rare.

[steven c newman]

As always, IF you happen to be in my area....stop in. You are free to test out any of the planes I have in the shop. There are about 4 of the #5 sized ones, each set up with a slightly different edge. About the only size not in the shop is a #4-1/2.....mine go from a few #3s up to the big,old #8.....

Stop in, sometime, and try them out. And, IF you have a "problem plane" bring it along, as well. When you leave, that plane will be up and running.......and no longer a problem child.

[Steven Harrison]

You may have made your decision already, but I'll give you my opinion. I have a Stanley #4, Lie-Nielsen #4 1/2, Stanley #5, a Stanley #6, and a Lee Valley Low Angle Jack with a 25 deg and 38 deg iron. I love my LN 4 1/2 and have used my #4 significantly less since I got the 4 1/2. When I try and go back and forth between the two I end up going back to the 4 1/2. If you want a smoother and already have the 4, I would go for the 4 1/2. If you want a bigger plane for more refined work and have a 5 already that you want to use for rough stock removal, I would probably go for a 6 or 7 to flatten, or I would get a low angle plane with a couple different irons. Depending on how rough my stock and how big it is I will start with my #5 with a cambered iron, move to my 6 or LV LAJ, then finish with my 4 or 4 1/2.