Resaw cutoff position?

[Nick Decker]

I'm going to be trying a bandsaw box, and will start by slicing about a quarter inch off the back of a laminated block of sapele.

What's the conventional wisdom, put the cutoff piece to the right of the blade, or left of the blade between the blade and the fence? I've seen it done both ways in videos, and I've tried it both ways practicing on scrap. Any rule of thumb, other than keep your thumb out of the way?

[Mark Bolton]

Veneer cut outbound of the blade to eliminate cumulative errors from the sawn face. That way your jointed face is against the fence ar all times.

[Doug Hepler]

Nick,

Cutoff piece to the right of the blade, the opposite side from the fence. This is mandatory on a table saw and I just carried it over to the BS. I don't have any other rationale, but Mark's makes sense.

Doug

[Nick Decker]

Thanks, fellas. Mark, I hadn't thought of the "cumulative" aspect, right you are.

[John Lanciani]

Veneer cut outbound of the blade to eliminate cumulative errors from the sawn face. That way your jointed face is against the fence ar all times.

Veneer cut between the fence and blade. Veneer thickness and uniformity is consistent this way and the fence never has to be moved. The only time I go back to the jointer is if the donor board starts to cup.

[Bradley Gray]

Veneer cut between the fence and blade. Veneer thickness and uniformity is consistent this way and the fence never has to be moved. The only time I go back to the jointer is if the donor board starts to cup.

This is my method also. I keep this setup on my big band saw and do the curved cuts on my small saw - fence stays put.

[Nick Decker]

While I like the idea of not having to move the fence for every cut, I think my technique and set-up abilities need to improve before I go that route. I've had mixed luck with veneer. Sometimes I surprise myself with how good it comes out, other times I'm left scratching my head.

[Rod Sheridan]

The small piece should be between the fence and the blade..............Regards, Rod.

[Mike Circo]

Veneer cut outbound of the blade to eliminate cumulative errors from the sawn face. That way your jointed face is against the fence ar all times.

Maybe I'm missing something, but, I have no idea what that statement means. Please elaborate for me.

Me... I cut with the "good" piece between the fence and blade.

[lowell holmes]

For safety reasons, I let the cut off fall away from the blade. You do not want the cut off launched like missile which can happen if it is
trapped against the fence.

[Mark Bolton]

Everyone has their own technique and processing after the veneer is sawn. In my experience, unless you saw oversize and then sand your veneers flat, you build cumulative error with each subsequent pass when you register the sawn face against the fence (set the fence a fixed distance from the blade, and keep sawing off veneer slices). Each pass through, the blade or the work, is going to leave a less than perfectly flat result. A few pieces, or running them all through the widebelt/drum after to calibrate them and that really doesnt matter. But if you are able to advance the fence you are always going to have a perfectly jointed reference face against the fence giving you the best possible cut.

If your blade drifts at all registering the sawn face against the fence you leave a hump/dip in the veneer and sawn face. The next pass, that is compounded. On an on. Whenever we have taken a piece of thick material, say 6/4 or 8/4, and just start slabbing off veneer slices with the fence fixed, the veneers degrade very quickly across the thickness of the piece. Again, no biggie if your sending them all through the sander after. But when advancing the fence, they stay consistent throughout the entire sawing process and if the blade/saw is on the money you get to skip the sander.

Just my experience. Do what works for you.

[Mark Bolton]

For safety reasons, I let the cut off fall away from the blade. You do not want the cut off launched like missile which can happen if it is
trapped against the fence.

True with a table saw.

[Bradley Gray]

I'm confused. I thought the OP was about making a band sawn box not about sawing veneer.

[Mark Bolton]

I'm confused. I thought the OP was about making a band sawn box not about sawing veneer.

Now thats a good catch

[Nick Decker]

Bradley, you're correct. I am interested in veneer also, though. I guess what I'm looking for is whether one way is better than the other, insofar as the overall quality of the cut.

At this point in my bandsaw experience, there are plenty of other variables to get under control as well. :)

[John Lanciani]

If you're free handing it doesn't matter; if you're using the fence the keeper goes between the fence and the blade just like on the TS.

[Mark Bolton]

Bradley, you're correct. I am interested in veneer also, though. I guess what I'm looking for is whether one way is better than the other, insofar as the overall quality of the cut.

At this point in my bandsaw experience, there are plenty of other variables to get under control as well. :)

You just have to try both options and see which fits your routine and shop equipment best. There is no "best" way all around, it depends on how you work and what equipment you have. More than likely if you have a wide sander (drum or belt) your just going to leave the fence put, saw oversize, and flatten them all in the sander. If you have no sander (or dont want to fuss with the sander) you may find that if your saw, and setup allows, moving the fence eliminates the time consuming step of feeding through the sander (speaking of veneer work now or multiple thin pieces). Just my 0.02. everyone has their own way.

[Nick Decker]

Thanks, Mark. I do have a wide drum sander, and it's getting a workout these days. :)

[Mark Bolton]

Thanks, Mark. I do have a wide drum sander, and it's getting a workout these days. :)

Its a handy tool, but slow ;-).

[Jim Morgan]

You just have to try both options and see which fits your routine and shop equipment best. There is no "best" way all around, it depends on how you work and what equipment you have. More than likely if you have a wide sander (drum or belt) your just going to leave the fence put, saw oversize, and flatten them all in the sander. If you have no sander (or dont want to fuss with the sander) you may find that if your saw, and setup allows, moving the fence eliminates the time consuming step of feeding through the sander (speaking of veneer work now or multiple thin pieces). Just my 0.02. everyone has their own way.

How do you advance your bandsaw fence with sufficient accuracy to ensure veneers of uniform thickness and avoid needing a drum sander? Do you use a dial indicator setup?

[lowell holmes]

When I rip thin rippings, I rip away from the fence and let the ripping fall to the side, then remove it.

It is a safe way to do it.

[Mark Bolton]

How do you advance your bandsaw fence with sufficient accuracy to ensure veneers of uniform thickness and avoid needing a drum sander? Do you use a dial indicator setup?

Yep, just an inexpensive 0-2" mag back indicator.