Any reason to keep my SawStop sliding table?

[Thomas Marr]

When purchasing my SS ICS, I was in the buying mood. So I grabbed the sliding table too. On installation, I didn’t remove the outside TS extension because I wasn’t sure I’d keep the sliding table. Without removing the TS extension, the fence has a bit of natural “play” in it close to the blade, due to the extra distance to cover the TS extension, and will impact the face of the table if I’m not careful when making a cut.

Of course I could remove the TS extension, cut the rails and install the table in its preferred position. However, I think it would be in the way far too often when making rip cuts. For sheet goods, I prefer to use the Festool track saw most of the time anyway. Smaller cross cuts go to the Kapex, miter gauge or cross cutting sled. I just don’t see a good use for the sliding table in my situation. Am I missing something?

[Mike Cutler]

Nope.
If it doesn't work for you. It doesn't work.
You could beef up the arm to keep it on the saw with the extension wing, but that's a big lever arm. I had the same issue adapting the JessEm Mast-R-Slide to me table saw. I did end up removing the extension and cutting the fence. I'm happy because mine works for me. I'm not happy about cutting the fence though, but I had too.

I'm sure you could sell it.

[Neil Gaskin]

I wouldn't recommend removing the extension and keeping the slider. It does not leave enough room in my opinion. I tried it both ways on our saw. We ended up taking it off and selling it. My biggest complaint was no way to set a 90° With a detent. I didn't find it overly accurate

[Thomas Marr]

Thanks guys. Nice to hear some real world experience.

[johnny means]

I found over the years that I developed a preference for using my cabinet saw for crosscutting. With just an Incra miter gauge it was so much more precise than my miter saw, which was very good. This was especially the case for mitered cuts. I would say set your slide up correctly, without destroying your fence and give it a try.

[Mike Kees]

Why does everyone think they have to cut their fence rails down to mount a sliding table ?Just measure the spacing of the existing holes and drill new holes/tap as needed and slide it over. If you do get rid of the slider you can always shift it back to the original spot. I would at least mount it properly and try it out some more before you sell it. Mike.

[Jim Andrew]

My Hammer slider is right next to the blade. I built an outfeed table and clamp a block onto the side at the end to keep the slider from moving when I use the saw to rip. Maybe you need to do that.

[Jim Becker]

Unfortunately, adding a sliding table to a traditional cabinet saw brings into play some challenges like you describe, especially because the sliding mechanism is removed from the blade by more than a foot. If it's not working for you, then it may be best to remove it and find a new home for it.

[Mike Cutler]

Why does everyone think they have to cut their fence rails down to mount a sliding table ?Just measure the spacing of the existing holes and drill new holes/tap as needed and slide it over. If you do get rid of the slider you can always shift it back to the original spot. I would at least mount it properly and try it out some more before you sell it. Mike.

MIke

If you have enough room the fence certainly be drilled and moved. I suspect though that the OP, like me, does not have enough room to be able to do that. My shop space is only 9' wide, so there just isn't enough room to slide the fence and rails over another 14" for me.

[Thomas Marr]

MIke, If you have enough room the fence certainly be drilled and moved. I suspect though that the OP, like me, does not have enough room to be able to do that. My shop space is only 9' wide, so there just isn't enough room to slide the fence and rails over another 14" for me.

Actually, I do have enough room...just barely. There's a shelf on that side of the saw and, therefore, the rails wouldn't stick out into dead space. I have a BP-style milling machine, so drilling the rails wouldn't be hard and it's a good idea to "at least try it."

That said, the left side of the saw is a good place for a router lift since the right side of the saw is blocked by the shelf. And, I've been lusting after an incra fence...which could do dual duty in this case.

I have a friend who's a mechanical engineer and professional woodworker. He also has a SS ICS, Incra fence and sliding tale (Excalibur) plus Festool track saw, etc... I've asked him to come over and provide some advice on my shop layout and set up. He has WAY more experience than me and can provide some real world experience regarding the various set ups. Since everything is a compromise, it's hard for a hobbyist to discover some of the advantages/problems with various setups unless we try it. That gets expensive fast...in time, money and aggravation.