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Mark Bolton
08-07-2017, 6:11 PM
We have a slider with a scoring motor in the shop and each have mag starter switch in the control panel with a CHINT NR2-25 thermal overload (25A on the main motor and smaller on the scoring). The other day was a big day, saw was running almost non stop all day and then I worked late into the evening and was breaking down a bunch of 12/4 hard maple for table legs. A few legs in the saw quit. I had hit the thermal overload a couple times in the past few months and would wait a bit, hit the reset on the thermal behind the panel cover, and the saw would be fine.

Well this time, no such luck. Did a bunch of other stuff, waited, hit the reset (never felt like it reset), waited some more, wash-rinse-repeat. Left it over night. Next day, still nothing. Manually close the mag switch and the main blade runs like a champ. I figure the thermal is fried. I pull it out, grab the fluke, test the leads, and it seems fine? Continuity is straight through. Put it back in, saw has dual controls, one set on the body, one on the slider, nothing. Test the transformer sending 28vac out to the slider and body controls, AOK. Do a bunch of testing in the panel, all seems good. Still nothing. Pull the thermal 2-3 more times and test and it always test fine. Each time I put it back in, nothing. Bypassed the thermal and connect motor leads direct to the mag. runs like a champ which I knew because even with the thermal in the saw would alway run depressing the mag manually. Re-test the continuity on the thermal, all looks good, reconnect thermal, zip. I do this for an entire day off and on.

Each time however, the prongs of the thermal going into the mag switch would kind of fight me. They wouldnt just slip in and tighten. One time the left pin would slide loose, another time the right pin would slide. Finally pulled the mag out of the panel and got the thermal locked in dead tight. Low and behold, I push the mag in manually and SNAP, it runs. Go to the slide controls, they work fine, controls on the base, work fine.

So Im left wondering.

a. The overload couldnt have been stuck or something because it tested multiple times with continuity test that it was passing power through. and it ran with the thermal in and manually closing the mag(yet the motor never fired**edit, never fired with the controls, the motor always ran when depressing the mag manually**
b. Could there have been a bad connection from the factory (fighing with getting the thermal pins tight into the switch) from the factory and we just got it hot enough to rear its head? (nearly 10 years)
c. Is the thermal on its way out? Doesnt make sense base on the continuity tests.
d. Probably the real answer that I just dont know?

I ordered a new thermal overload to have on the shelf, and we could have always run the saw jumping out the mag switch, but would of course rather not do that.

Malcolm McLeod
08-07-2017, 7:07 PM
Some speculation, since I don't have your electrical schematic, but I think you hit the nail on the head with your observation that it "never felt like it reset".

The starter coil is typically interlocked thru the OL aux contact (the line terminals on the OL will always read 'thru' :: continuity). On high current, the OL opens the aux contact. which in turn kills control power to the coil of the starter. Suspect your last attempt at inserting it finally caused it to reset??

If your wages depend on the saw, having a suitable set of spares never hurts...:cool::cool:.

Jim Becker
08-07-2017, 7:28 PM
Did vibration unseat the component by any chance? I had something come loose in mine a number of years ago and found that by trial and error.

Barry Versteegh
08-07-2017, 7:44 PM
Ran into problem like this in the past after repeated tripping the overload will cause this problem replace overload

Mark Bolton
08-07-2017, 7:55 PM
Did vibration unseat the component by any chance? I had something come loose in mine a number of years ago and found that by trial and error.

Thats my (fingers crossed) hope, that either heat or vibration (given the 12/4 hard maple thinking heat) caused the problem.

I didnt have the where with all in the situation to figure out how to test if the outboard controls were actually sending voltage through the overload.

I guess its just a wait and see. Im not a control guy but can see my way through a schematic just enough to come to the wrong conclusion.

Mark Bolton
08-07-2017, 7:57 PM
Some speculation, since I don't have your electrical schematic, but I think you hit the nail on the head with your observation that it "never felt like it reset".

The starter coil is typically interlocked thru the OL aux contact (the line terminals on the OL will always read 'thru' :: continuity). On high current, the OL opens the aux contact. which in turn kills control power to the coil of the starter. Suspect your last attempt at inserting it finally caused it to reset??

If your wages depend on the saw, having a suitable set of spares never hurts...:cool::cool:.

That makes total sense. I just had no idea how it worked. Logic lead me to think that all the handling, and in and out, finally shook something loose.

P.S. And yes, our wages depend directly on this saw daily. ;-)

Bill Dufour
08-07-2017, 8:02 PM
How much sawdust was in the switch gear I agree probably a little lose from the factory/ocean voyage. How hot has it been in your shop?
Bill

Mark Bolton
08-07-2017, 8:35 PM
How much sawdust was in the switch gear I agree probably a little lose from the factory/ocean voyage. How hot has it been in your shop?
Bill

_Zero_ dust in the "switch gear". We keep cabinet interiors nearly spotless daily and the electrical cabs are sealed so when you take the cover off they are pretty much spotless? Temps in the shop are nothing out of the ordinary for this time of year. 80's? Down low where this panel is would easily say 80's max.

Bill Berklich
08-08-2017, 10:13 AM
Remove the switch it works / Install the switch it doesn't... any chance it is an orientation problem like a loose part or bad spring in the switch body?