Closing up 'holes' in table saw.

[Perry Schmidt]

Trying to improve the dust collection on a Grizzly 1023 cabinet saw. I've read previous posts about closing up the holes where the handwheels are, the back and around the motor cover.

OK, what do you use to do this?? I remember reading one suggestion to use the 'magnetic sheets', but where do you get these? The collection of pizza place magnets on my fridge aren't big enough :)

Any suggestions would be appreciated - either where to get this stuff in large enough sheets or other alternatives.

Thanks,

Perry

[nic obie]

I'd like to know where magnetic sheets can be found too.

I wonder if sign shops might sell us some. Maybe they have cutoffs or mistakes they'd sell?

[Lincoln Myers]

Magnetic vent covers sold in the home centers near the furnace filters, registers and air 're-directors'.

Usually a white magnetic 'sheet' big enough to cover a standard household vent. I got mine at Menards. Home Depot/Lowes etc. should have them.

[nic obie]

Good idea!

thanx

[Keith Outten]

If you can't find a local source for magnetic rubber sheets you can order it from me. I use magnetic rubber for laser engraving, specifically truck and equipment signs. I don't normally sell material but I can help if you cannot find a source.

24" wide - any length - 0.030" thick.

Contact me via email or PM for more information.

[John Parker]

Perry, Do'nt close the holes off completely. If you stop the flow of air you will stop the removal of dust. You may need more flow not less. I tried the magnetic covers on my Jet saw and it made the dust removal worst.

[Terry Hatfield]

Perry, Do'nt close the holes off completely. If you stop the flow of air you will stop the removal of dust. You may need more flow not less. I tried the magnetic covers on my Jet saw and it made the dust removal worst.
Perry,

John is exactly right. Don't close it up tight of you will starve the DC. I did some extra seailng on my 1023 by using pieces of duct tape to partially close off the tilt slot in the front of the cabinet and putting some 1/2" wide 1/4" thick weatherstripping around the motor cover door to seal it to the cabinet.

Just make sure to leave the same area of openings as you have duct going to the saw.

Terry

[Don Farr]

I used plexiglas on the back of my saw and connected it with velcro strips. That way I can still see inside if air is not moving properly. I rarely have to take it off. If I notice a bridge forming I remove the TS insert and poke around with a stick to get it going again.

[Perry Schmidt]

thanks for all the suggestions - I'll have to check out the vent covers at the big box today. If I can't find it there, I'll be sending you a PM Keith - thanks.

And yea - I wasn't planning on closing up all the holes tight, but I want to get the ones on the same side (and front) of the saw closed so the air flow comes from the blade and the opposite side of the DC outlet. I'm getting marginal results now, but I think a lot of it is because most of the air is coming from the 'hole' right above the DC outlet... And the front is just a pain - lots of saw dust kicks out through that hole just because it's in line w/ the blade.

Anyway, thanks again for all suggestions.

Perry

[Dan Stuewe]

You may also try craft stores (around here, Micheal's, Jo-Ann's, Tall Mouse - can you tell I'm married to a wonderful crafty lady?). My wife has bought sheets to put pictures on for the fridge.

[Tom Gattiker]

I admit it, I am cheap!

[Steve Clardy]

and all I did was stuff some insulation around the holes where the table mounts to the cabinet. I made my own motor cover, used foam tape to seal it, and left the crank handle holes alone for air movement. Works fairly well, except it needs a tapered board on the bottom of cabinet to help direct the chips to the exit hole. I used the hole where the slotted vent cover goes onto the cabinet to hook up my dust hose. Didn't want to cut another hole in the cabinet.
Steve