Building a hearth for a woodstove......?

[Dennis Peacock]

Greetings,

The LOML and I are putting in a new woodstove for our primary heat source with natural gas heat for a backup. We are on a slab, existing home and we are wanting to builda 4' by 5' hearth that is about 6" high. I know I can use the solid "cap block" that is 4" thick, but can I just lay down 3 layers of Durarock to gain some necessary height? If so, who can I secure the Durarock to the solid concrete blocks that will be layed on top of the existing slab?
Can I use a .22 cal nail gun to secure it to the block? Should I drill and screw the Durarock to the concret block? Stick'em together with some concrete adhesive and then lay the tile on top of that?

Advise PLEASE. We are taking delivert and installation of the new stove next Friday, 4 November 2005. Any advise or pointers will be GREATLY appreciated.!!!!

Dennis - Turning into a very short term hearth builder.

[Randy Meijer]

I believe an email to the stove manufacturer would be in order!!

[Steve Clardy]

Not familiar with Durarock. Fill us in.

[Jason Roehl]

Steve, I could be wrong here, but I'm guessing that Dennis is referring to Durock--the cement board backer stuff. He must have been tired from one of his marathon work shifts. :D

Jason

[Jim Hager]

Morning Dennis,

If I were you I would lay down a course of the 4" blocks you mention then use some of the thin cap blocks over that to gain the height you desire without using any of the durarock. I would simply use regular mortar mix to lay the blocks and maybe put in a shovelfull of portland cement to aid in a stronger bond. You might also want to take a chisel to the floor and score it in several places or maybe use a drill and drill a series of holes for the mortar to have something to grab on to.

I don't see anything wrong with using the durarock but you might find it cheaper to use the 4" blocks and a cap block. Better get that thing put in cause its about to get cold.:p

[Dennis Peacock]

Thanks guys.....looks like we're going to go with standard 8" high blocks and cap the openeings on the sides with those 2" thin cap blocks. I figured that I could put down a even surface of mortar and then put the tile on top of that with a good mastic. Sound reasonable? Anything wrong with that idea?

BTW, they've got this real cool concrete adhesive that I plan on putting the blocks to the floor with so I don't have to lay mortar and block. Last time I did that, it was so sloppy that my 8 year old son could have done a better job.:eek: :o

[John Shuk]

There are special screws for use with Durarock that are petty nice. I might use tapcons to secure it to the block then durarock screws to fasten the layers of D-rock.

[Jerry Olexa]

Dennis, your approach sounds fine. I would check w your stove maker. There are usually strict clearance reqts for stoves and also, importantly, for vertical surfaces clearances against combustible walls. Err on the side of too much clearance rather than too little. IMHO. Jerry

[Dennis Peacock]

Thanks everyone. I got the specs on the new stove and I also bought the "heat shield" for the stove which allows a minimum clearance from the back of the stove to be 7". The Stove will be placed near the hall entrace and slightly off center of the Greatroom. The hearth will be 4' deep by 5' wide by 8-1/2" high. Each of these dimension far exceeds the manufacturers minimum clearance requirements. The only wall I have to be concerned with is the wall that will be "behind" the stove. I'm also going with double-wall pipe all the way out the roof and 2' above the roof peak as prescribed by the manufacturer. The stove weighs in at 480 pounds, is made of soapstone and cast iron. This stove exceeds the EPA's standards, 2.8 rating for smoke effeciency and also rated at 76% effecient for heating. All of these standards are far better than any I've ever dealt with in the past and far better and more effecient than any fireplace that I've ever had.

Now, I just gotta get it in gear and gather up some firewood to feed the stove. :rolleyes:

I will be getting the blocks and adhesive for the foundation for the hearth and get it ready for tile. Of course, I will be taking pics along the way and will keep everyone posted on the overall progress. After all, I have to have this baby done and cured by Thursday night as the stove will stand on top of the new hearth come Friday morning. The LOML and kids are really looking forward to being able to be "warm" this winter. So I guess I get some big family "browny points" for bettering the family comfort zone during the cool/cold winter days......and I'll like it because I won't have to keep paying over $300 per month in natural gas bills in the winter.!!!!:eek: :D

[Andy Hoyt]

...... I'm also going with double-wall pipe all the way out the roof and 2' above the roof peak as prescribed by the manufacturer. ......
Dennis - FYI - Most building codes I've ever dealt with stipulate that the terminus of the chimney or pipe must be two feet higher than any other portion of the structure within ten feet as measured on a horizontal line.

Put another way, this means that the steeper your roof the, higher the chimney or pipe must project above the point of roof penetration. And at a certain height that projection will need bracing (based on the style of projection) to resist wind loads.

This means that you may or may not need to be higher than the ridge. All depends on your specific circumstances.

Hope this helps. Andy

[Dennis Peacock]

Good morning Andy....

My roof is a 7/12 pitch and the stove pipe should penetrate the roof within 3 linear feet of the ridge. The guy at the stove shop said that it would need to be at least 2 feet above the ridge line of the house.

We originally planned on putting the stove in the corner of the greatroom, but after doing some homework and found that the stove would do "better" if it we more centrally located in the house, then we decided to move it more towards the center of the house, which actually worked out better overall because the original location would have been directly under our very large oak tree and if the limbs ever came down like the ones during storms this year? Would wipe out the stovepipe and maybe the roof. The new location moves it out from under the tree and provides a better shot of clean drafting as well.

Thanks for your help.

[Andy Hoyt]

Good morning Andy....

My roof is a 7/12 pitch and the stove pipe should penetrate the roof within 3 linear feet of the ridge. The guy at the stove shop said that it would need to be at least 2 feet above the ridge line of the house.

Thanks, Dennis. With those numbers, I'd agree with your stove guy.