Delta Drill Press problem with bolt for table tilt

[Doug Carlson]

I just got a brand new Delta Drill Press (Model #18-900L), it's an 18" press.
Anyway, as with all new tools I like to go through each function/feature to make sure everything works as it should.
Everything was going great until I attempted to tilt the table to either side.
For the life of me, I could not get that bolt to budge (The bolt that must be loosened to enable you to tilt the table)

I FINALLY got it to turn, and I tilted the table to each side, and NOW, I cannot get that bolt to tighten back up! There is an index pin to reset the table to a flat 90 degrees, and that is the only thing preventing the table from tilting to either side (The table would be unusable if it weren't for that indexing pin)

The bolt just turns and turns and turns, never making any purchase in a threaded receptor (Like a nut).

Does anyone know how in the heck you tighten this bolt? There HAS to be some kind of trick to it - all I did was loosen the darn thing, and now I cannot tighten it back up! I have written to Delta Support, and am awaiting their response, but I thought I'd check here - I am sure there are more knowledgeable people here anyway!

The Table Bolt is labeled (TT) in the attached page from the manual.

I am VERY upset and worried about this. I don't have a lot of money so a machine like this is a BIG deal to me, and to have broken it after only 2 days - makes me almost sick to my stomach. It's also a 260 lb machine. I had to bother a friend with a truck to get it home from the store. I can't exactly just plop it in the trunk of my car to bring it in to a repair shop.

[Jim Morgan]

I just got a brand new Delta Drill Press (Model #18-900L), it's an 18" press.
Anyway, as with all new tools I like to go through each function/feature to make sure everything works as it should.
Everything was going great until I attempted to tilt the table to either side.
For the life of me, I could not get that bolt to budge (The bolt that must be loosened to enable you to tilt the table)

I FINALLY got it to turn, and I tilted the table to each side, and NOW, I cannot get that bolt to tighten back up! There is an index pin to reset the table to a flat 90 degrees, and that is the only thing preventing the table from tilting to either side (The table would be unusable if it weren't for that indexing pin)

The bolt just turns and turns and turns, never making any purchase in a threaded receptor (Like a nut).

Does anyone know how in the heck you tighten this bolt? There HAS to be some kind of trick to it - all I did was loosen the darn thing, and now I cannot tighten it back up! I have written to Delta Support, and am awaiting their response, but I thought I'd check here - I am sure there are more knowledgeable people here anyway!

The Table Bolt is labeled (TT) in the attached page from the manual.

I am VERY upset and worried about this. I don't have a lot of money so a machine like this is a BIG deal to me, and to have broken it after only 2 days - makes me almost sick to my stomach. It's also a 260 lb machine. I had to bother a friend with a truck to get it home from the store. I can't exactly just plop it in the trunk of my car to bring it in to a repair shop.

If it took that much force to loosen the bolt (elsewhere, you say you used a 24" breaker bar), perhaps you snapped the bolt. :-(

[Bill Dufour]

It looks like that table tilts in two ways? I agree you probably stripped the threads in the cast iron. They probably lock tited it and cross threaded it on assembly. No point in taking it apart, you will have to return the entire machine to get a replacement or refund.
I would call and find out if you can even buy a replacement casting. Just for your information. I doubt if the factory in China is set up to provide parts. If you can not, I would buy a used machine with equal parts support.
Bill

[Greg R Bradley]

IF you needed a 24" breaker bar to loosen the bolt, something was wrong. It is almost inconceivable that the factory would have used loctite on the bolt. Rare to see loctite used in a Chinese factory even where they should use it.

It should have required around 50-70 ft/lb to loosen that size bolt. A 200 pound pull on a 24" breaker bar would be 400 ft/lb, which could break a bolt that size OR strip the threads out of the cast iron if you were pulling the wrong direction.

Probably best to go ahead and try to remove the bolt to see the problem part.

If the bolt stripped the cast iron, it will probably be easiest to tap the cast iron for the next larger bolt or helicoil it for a size the same as the original.

[Marc Jeske]

Get a literally almost 70 yr old Delta, from the 50's or 60's.

United States of America made.....you will not have these problems.

Sorry, but fact is research before buying tools.

Return that thing you got, unless you need it for a contracted job TODAY.

We, or at least I, would be glad to help you find an awesome drill press that will last for generations to come, for similar $. Marc

[Yonak Hawkins]

I agree, it doesn't sound good. It's time to take it up with the supplier, emphasizing that you followed the instructions to a "T".

[Marc Jeske]

Doug - Post your approximate location ideally permanently under your name, if unsure how, at least in the Thread. Marc

[glenn bradley]

This has got to be disappointing. My 17-950 uses a very similar mechanism (as do a lot of drill presses). The bolt is simply threaded through the trunnion casting (called the table bracket in your parts diagram) into the knuckle housing (called the bracket assembly in your parts diagram). These are both castings that are machined for their various functions. Unless I am missing something on the parts diagram and there was some reason to stray from a mechanism that has worked for many decades, there is no 'nut' or other part that the bolt threads into . . . just the machined casting.

I would have to agree that it sounds like you stripped the threads out of the 'bracket assembly'. You could certainly completely remove the bolt to confirm this. BE CAREFUL . . . the trunnion and anything still attached to it, like the table, will come free when you pull the bolt. I would pull the table before I pulled the bolt to make things easier to handle.

If you got really lucky, the bolt stripped instead of the casting and all you have to do is replace the 16mm bolt. Not likely but, one can hope. If the bolt comes out and looks serviceable, the casting is most likely stripped. This was a large purchase for you. A proper repair is probably my best advise in order to move on past this.

P.s. My brother has this DP and got it after returning a PM2800 (they were fraught with problems and the new version is supposed to be quite good). IMHO Delta is superior to the original 2800 in many ways when you get to use them side by side.

[Bob Michaels]

Doug, the good news is that cast iron is soft and easy to drill and tap new threads, if necessary. I realize this is a big purchase but once you get past this you'll really enjoy the drill press. If you bought it local, maybe your supplier knows someone who can give you a hand fixing it. Many woodworkers are proficient with machine repair, out of necessity.

[Keith Pitman]

My 25 year old Delta drill press has an alignment pin at the 90 degree position. If you have an alignment pin, it would prevent you from tilting the table.

[Doug Carlson]

Thanks everyone who weighed in.
So - I pulled the bolt out and low and behold, the threads of the bolt were filled with the broken (female) threads from the collar that attaches the table to the column. When I finally was able to turn that bolt, the threads were clean off of the interior of the collar.
So.... I tried to get ahold of Delta. What a crock!
First call: I sat on hold for 32 minutes before I was helped by a nice southern gent named Steve. He was a good guy but all he could suggest was that something was stripped - and he gave me the names of 2 authroized service centers in my area.
I called one of them up - and they said that they had such a terrible time working with Delta that they had parts ordered in February that still hadn't arrived - so they said they would happy to help me out - but it might be quicker and easier for me to deal with Delta myself.
OK...
So I called Delta back. 46 minutes on hold. Finally got through to Steve again. He was sympathetic - but I didnt get the feeling that he could really do much to help me. He told me I would have to send in the collar that the threads were stripped out of. It's probably a 15 lb piece, so I am not too excited to ship that dang thing back to Delta - on my nickel, of course.
So Steve told me to email him a scanned copy of the receipt and some pictures. I did t his yesterday. I have emailed them 3 times in the last week. I have not heard one single acknowledgement of my emails (despite very clearly ASKING for them to at least tell me they got the darn email in the first place). Emailing them is a fools errand. NOthing happens. No acknowledgement, no reply - NOTHING.

So, this morning a thought occurred to me. I don't know why I didn't think of this before, but the Big Box Store that I bought this thing from will take it back. It is well within their return window and I have the receipt - and the dang thing is defective. So tonight my neighbor is going to help me take it back to the store. They don't have any in stock, so they have to special order it - which means the new one will get shipped to my house.

So I am going to try it one more time because, despite this one issue, I was really happy and satisfied with everything else on that machine.
The motor was smooth and quiet. The runout was minimal. The speeds were easy to change, and so on. It's a solid machine. I think.

So... the big lesson I learned is that Delta has the WORST customer service I have EVER experienced in ANY industry.
It is such a miserable experience, I am seriously thinking about soliciting my services as a consultant to help whip them into shape - I spent many, many years in the CS game and have the scars to prove it. I don't think it was quite so bad when they were a part of Black & Decker - but now that they aren't?
It's absolutely MISERABLE trying to deal with them. You just sit on hold and sit on hold and sit on hold and the employee that you eventually talk to is just as frustrated as you are and is powerless to do anything meaningful to help you out.

So - the lesson I learned was keep that receipt and deal with the store you bought it from because if you have to deal with Delta directly - you are SCREWED.

Thanks again all

Doug


UPDATE:
Steve from Delta DID acknowledge having received my email. HE reported that he received it and had forwarded it upstream, and would get bk to me when he has an update.

[Marc Jeske]

Doug - PLEASE !! ........Oh PLEASE..... Do not get another Jineez DP.

You have not yet , at least that I saw, given your geo location.

Let me find you a DP to last generations.

Or whatever you like, Marc

[Marc Jeske]

Something like this---

http://www.tdpri.com/data/attachments/185/185530-db14d8fbbad2d6c5c23615034a047df9.jpg

[Doug Carlson]

HOowdy MArc -
I am in St P aul. I am going to stick with the Delta my friend - but I appreciate your willingness to help!

Doug

[Marc Jeske]

One last try - being a snarky old coot as I am, How someone would not prefer this, (or a similar old Powermatic, Clausing, etc. or equivalent) in their shop compared to "new" for ballpark similar end result money is beyond my brain..... Marc

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Inb_0v7tTwU

[Marc Jeske]

Well, I guess I'm not done quite yet.

Very strongly believe in what I said.

There is about 4 possibles in link below, right now, all around $250.

And that's just today.. where you live.. new stuff all the time.

And also, you got all those used machinery dealers concentrated in a few next to each other warehouses in Hopkins.

Just SW of Excelsior Blvd. ( ? Cty. 3?) and as I recall ? 11th Av.

I almost bought a Delta saw 12/14 there years ago.


Back to the Craigslist, most or all possibles at top of page.

You are fortunate to live in/ near a highly populated are.

Many possibilities.

I live in the deep TX woods now, lucky If I have 5 new entries/ week in Craigslist tool category within a 100 miles.

Then it's almost always like a beat up Black & Decker Circ Saw for $20.


So live in TX 12 yrs now, escaped the Snow, but now in the heat and humidity.

No panaceia overall, just different extremes.

Brought up S MPLS, then Minnetonka/ Mound, even a cheap lot on the Lake for a few years.


Craigslist - Ya, one has a 3 phase, I saw that... relatively rare for this size machine.

A little 3/4 hp aftermarket motor is not much $ if the machine condition deserves it.


Again, whatever........... GO Jineez !!!! if you wish. Marc

https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/search/sss?query=drill%20press&sort=rel

[Bill Dufour]

I would buy a older three phase drill press and a VFD. This givers you variable speed, power brakes, and quick reverse. A three phase dp will sell for less money then a single phase unit. The vfd will cost about $100. Personally I like the Walker Turner/Delta 20" dp with six inch stroke.
Bill

[Marc Jeske]

Bill - Very probable all true, but I was trying for a simpler midpoint for the OP.

Wanted to (apparently) introduce him to the joys of Old Iron, w/o overwhelming him

Marc

[Bill Dufour]

I would say Delta has shown there is no advantage to buying a new dp. They do not have parts! Might as well save your money and buy used for less money. The parts support will be no worse and it may even be better on ebay.
Bill

[CPeter James]

Something like this---

http://www.tdpri.com/data/attachments/185/185530-db14d8fbbad2d6c5c23615034a047df9.jpg

These are one of the nicest DPs out there. With a 3 phase motor, slow speed pulley option and a VFD, you can just dial in the speed you need. I have rebuilt 6 or 8 of these and have three in use now. Parts are no problem and the fit and finish is superior to anything being sold today! All of mine are 3 phase with VFD.
My two headed setup
365386

This is my favorite
365387

CPeter

[Charles Lent]

I also have a 900L and it has a large Allen head cap screw in the table tilt. It took some real searching to find an Allen wrench that large. Then I needed a pipe extension on the Allen wrench to break the bolt loose the first time, but my threads are OK. I love my drill press for all of the capabilities that it has. If the threads were damaged in mine, I would take the bolt and the casting to a machine shop and have them install a Heli-coil in it. They will drill the casting hole slightly larger, then thread it with a special tap, and then install a spiral spring-like piece that becomes new threads of the right inside diameter for the original bolt. These threads are stronger than the original threads. You may want to also have them get you another bolt, because that original is likely also damaged. I would not want to give up the features that the 900L has, and it would be worth it to me to pay the machine shop to have it fixed, quite likely for less than $100.

Your 900L likely also came with the laser cross hair unit as well. Mine laser unit never worked like it was supposed to, until I took it apart and rotated each laser line generator to project truly vertical lines. It seems that they were never calibrated at the factory. The drill press, at least mine, came with a white 3/8 diameter rod with a point on one end. To calibrate it you have to remove the cover of the laser unit and then loosen the clamps that hold the lasers. Study the clamps to see how they work because it is not intuitive. Once you get them loose enough to be able to rotate, then carefully rotate each laser until it's line is perfectly vertical on the white rod. Once they are set, carefully tighten the laser clamps and then check the alignment again. The point of this white rod should make a small dent when pressed into a piece of wood exactly where the lines cross, at any height. If the laser alignment is still good, replace the cover. Now the laser lines should cross at the drill bit contact point, wherever it happens to be. They aren't very sharp lines, so exact positioning is not really possible, but theyt will help you get the right location when drilling many holes close together on a project.

The only other problem that I've had with my 900L has been the power switch. The contacts of the original switch stuck together so the drill press would not turn off. The first few times, I disassembled the switch and broke the contacts free of each other, then put the switch back together. After this happened several times I replaced the switch and mounting plate with a shop made plate for a higher current rated (wider but similar style) switch. This new switch has worked perfectly since it's installation two years ago.

Charley

[David Roberts]

Doug,

Just thought I'd ask now that you've had the drill press for a few months if you are happy with the Delta 18-900l? My limited research thus far has this drill as the best one out if you ignore the company's customer service and possible parts availability. My next choice would be the PM2800b. 5 year warranty, parts available and good customer service.


Thanks!!
David

[Ted Derryberry]

I have this drill press. It has great features, but poor execution and worse customer service. I'm done with Delta for good, other than maybe used equipment that's old enough to repair without factory parts. I've had two issues. The chuck had one of the key holes too far from the teeth and it started stripping the key, so then the key didn't want to work in any of the holes. I was at the Grizzly showroom and asked to look at their replacement chucks and the salesman recommended a keyless chuck. Simple fix and I love the keyless feature, changing bits is almost a pleasure. So, that was an easy fix, but it did add about $80 to the cost of the machine. Second problem is a vibration that I can't pin down. It's not in the motor as everything is smooth with the belts off. It doesn't appear to be in the quill as there's very little run out. That leaves the belts and the center pulley. I've changed the belts, not with Delta originals because they can't even keep them in stock! It's hard to believe that a company doesn't stock belts for their flagship drill press, but its true. Anyway, that didn't help. I did call customer service not long after I bought it and they said, "probably the belts" and offered no other help at all. I've learned to live with the vibration and it's only really bad at higher RPMs, which I seldom use.

There was a $100 rebate when I bought it. It took a year and some threatening e-mails to get that out of them.

I should have sent the thing back. At the time there wasn't anything else on the market at a reasonable price with the quill stroke this one has. A year later the Powermatic came out. If I were to buy a drill press today I would seriously look at the Nova.

There's a review on Amazon with a picture of the column base casting broke in two. Think about that every time you pull the handle!

[Charles Lent]

Doug,

If you are still trying to fix your drill press, there is a way to re-thread the casting using a product called Heli Coil. You drill the hole to a specific drill diameter, cleaning out all of the damaged threads. Then, using a special Heli Coil tap, you re-thread the hole. This special tap is larger than the original threads, but the same number of threads per inch as the original threads. You then install a special spring-like stainless steel piece that threads into the hole and has threads inside that match the original bolt threads. The Heli Coil product has a tang on the end that you then break off after the Heli Coil has been installed, and this creates a barb on the end that locks the coil in place. Red Loctite is also sometimes used to lock these threads in place.

If you haven't used Heli Coils before, there is a bit of a learning curve to using them. For a Heli Coil installation this large, the cost of the special Heli Coil tap, the installation tool, and the Heli Coil itself can be expensive, so I suggest having a machine shop do this job for you. Having just one installed by them will likely cost less than buying the kit and doing it yourself, since they will likely already have the tap and installation tool on hand. After the Heli Coil has been installed, the new threads will be much stronger than the original threads. You will quite likely never have to face this problem again.

Charley